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[sadunbar]

OK, this is where you do the ol fix it yourself thing.  In your spare time, when not being chased by 12 pound mosquitoes, take off seat, take off side covers, take off front fairing. Easy enough to do in a couple hours or so,  then turn on ignition and wiggle stuff to try and replicate. I would be suspect of any wiring runs, check to make sure connectors are clicked, check under frame, check fuse area, check near master, inspect any harnesses and wire runs for abraision. Look at wire run at rear of tank, see if it is pinched at all anywhere. Hopefully not needed to take off tank. But I would do the following: I would disconnect and reconnect every viable connector, there are not so many, and inspect it.

San, it can only be so much, I am thinking abraision. Did you do any electrical mods like assy sw, or the headlight mod? Whatever it is, it is not blowing fuses, so the current is very short.  I need to see what reset fuses there are, if any.  I will check tommorrow and see what I can see here, but that far away, I am guessing to. But hopefully, we ccan narrow it down, and you don't get stranded with those polar bear and mooses.

Rhino

Another 600 miles today....in Toronto now.... Oil leak at rear cylinder head only leaked a few drops today...almost nothing.  It has been chilly up until today.  The coolest days leaked the most oil, and today, almost 90, leaked virtually nothing.  Oil temps were around 190-195 when it leaked the most.  Oil temps were 230-250 today (90 degrees ambient - plus stop and go Toronto rush hour traffic).

My electrical gremlin only surfaced once today - for a few miles, the volume control for the radio (left handle bar control) did not work.  Then - started working again.  All else worked fine.  Beginning to think possibly the harness connection under the dash (under the main power switch)??  or the main power switch itself??  Or a chafed wire in this area??  At any rate, I've gone well over 1000 miles since it all shut off without any new problems.  At least all the important things are unaffected since then.  I know it didn't fix itself, but for now, I am going to leave well enough alone.

I have been thru these things before - if not me, then a traveling companion.  We always figure it out one way or the other.  But -if anyone recognizes the symptoms and has suggestions as to a root cause - I'd be interested in hearing your theory...

Scott

[miker]

well, it could have been something that had gotten soggy opr damp and is drying out...You can try spraying a good wd40 type stuff into the connectors when you can to see if the bug stays away.

Miker

[sadunbar]

Other then some morning dew - the bike hasn't been rained on or washed in a couple of weeks...  I think I have either chafed wires or a connection not seated...

but thanks for the thought...

Scott

[Rhino]

URGENT MESSAGE:  Have your riding partner immediately buy and install a Gremlin Bell as a gift at your next stop**

**must be received as a gift or it won't work

R.

Another 600 miles today....in Toronto now.... Oil leak at rear cylinder head only leaked a few drops today...almost nothing.  It has been chilly up until today.  The coolest days leaked the most oil, and today, almost 90, leaked virtually nothing.  Oil temps were around 190-195 when it leaked the most.  Oil temps were 230-250 today (90 degrees ambient - plus stop and go Toronto rush hour traffic).

My electrical gremlin only surfaced once today - for a few miles, the volume control for the radio (left handle bar control) did not work.  Then - started working again.  All else worked fine.  Beginning to think possibly the harness connection under the dash (under the main power switch)??  or the main power switch itself??  Or a chafed wire in this area??  At any rate, I've gone well over 1000 miles since it all shut off without any new problems.  At least all the important things are unaffected since then.  I know it didn't fix itself, but for now, I am going to leave well enough alone.

I have been thru these things before - if not me, then a traveling companion.  We always figure it out one way or the other.  But -if anyone recognizes the symptoms and has suggestions as to a root cause - I'd be interested in hearing your theory...

Scott

[deucedog]

When it comes to the electrical stuff, I am completely lost.  My Ultra did the same thing.  Have all the wiring related to the starter, relay, etc. checked out.  The dealer found a corroded ground.  Make sure you get the tech at the dealership who is sharp on the electrical stuff.

[GasRat]

You will be getting a NEW motor if your dealer is upright.  If not, demand to talk to the MOCO rep.   No oil pressure= Your oil pump is shot. For sure your crank is out closer to .030 instead of .0030.   That alone qualifies you for the motor.  Be there when they do it.  
Sorry to hear of your trials, but there is always a solution, although quite inconvenient. 

Rhino

 Suprise, Suprise.  The oil pump was shot,  they checked the run out,  a whopping .042.   I'm surprised it lasted this long.  New motor ordered, was told it should take "about a week" to get.  Hopefully this one will be better than the last.

[skreminegul07]

Suprise, Suprise.  The oil pump was shot,  they checked the run out,  a whopping .042.   I'm surprised it lasted this long.  New motor ordered, was told it should take "about a week" to get.  Hopefully this one will be better than the last.

Too bad Gas Rat.  I got HD to approve checking runout before rebuilding the top end in two weeks.  I was surprised that yours lasted 7000 miles.  I wonder if it gets worse over time.

Good luck with the new motor.  It's like a lottery, maybe you'll get a good one.

[GasRat]

I agree.  It shouldn't feel this way but your right,  I still have this feeling that I'm rolling the dice and hoping for a good one.  I guess only time will tell.  I should check to see if they're going to extend the factory warranty for the new engine to give it a full two years.  It sounds as though it will need it.

[Midnight Rider]

I agree.  It shouldn't feel this way but your right,  I still have this feeling that I'm rolling the dice and hoping for a good one.  I guess only time will tell.  I should check to see if they're going to extend the factory warranty for the new engine to give it a full two years.  It sounds as though it will need it.

If I'm not mistaken, the warranty will pick up where your old one left off, like any other "part" they replace.  They SHOULD give you another 2 year, but you'll be blue if you're holding your breath, I'm afraid.  It looks like on the 110's, unless they come out with a for sure fix, the best money anybody could spend would be on an extended warranty...   I hope you get a good one that lasts as long as you want it to...

[Chief]

Here's what we learned today. HD Tech Service is admitting there have been some problems with bad liners in the cylinders. UltraFXR had a bad liner on his. Half the battle is won when you admit you have a problem.

Decision is to replace both F&R cylinders, rings, o-rings and gaskets.

National backorder on cylinders, so repairs will have to wait until after Hot Springs.

Patient comes home tomorrow.

[skreminegul07]

Here's what we learned today. HD Tech Service is admitting there have been some problems with bad liners in the cylinders. UltraFXR had a bad liner on his. Half the battle is won when you admit you have a problem.

Decision is to replace both F&R cylinders, rings, o-rings and gaskets.

National backorder on cylinders, so repairs will have to wait until after Hot Springs.

Patient comes home tomorrow.

Chief,
Did you ask how will you know the replacement cylinders are good?  I'm just asking the obvious which I'm sure has gone thru your mind also.
Mine goes in on 9/10 for the same treatment.
I'll update as it happpens.

[Chief]

Chief,
Did you ask how will you know the replacement cylinders are good?  I'm just asking the obvious which I'm sure has gone thru your mind also.
Mine goes in on 9/10 for the same treatment.
I'll update as it happpens.

I think the way they test the cylinders is to put them on the bike and send you on your way. If you come back with a leak, they're no good.

This is the manner in which Harley does all of their development testing, so I would assume replacement part testing is probably accomplished the same way.

[Rhino]

Suprise, Suprise.  The oil pump was shot,  they checked the run out,  a whopping .042.   I'm surprised it lasted this long.  New motor ordered, was told it should take "about a week" to get.  Hopefully this one will be better than the last.

Congratulations.  This is a good thing.
Rhino

[grc]

Here's what we learned today. HD Tech Service is admitting there have been some problems with bad liners in the cylinders. UltraFXR had a bad liner on his. Half the battle is won when you admit you have a problem.

Decision is to replace both F&R cylinders, rings, o-rings and gaskets.

National backorder on cylinders, so repairs will have to wait until after Hot Springs.

Patient comes home tomorrow.

Chief,

What exactly did they say was wrong with the liners? 

Jerry

[Chief]

Chief,

What exactly did they say was wrong with the liners? 

Jerry

As I understand it, they have seen some 110 cylinders where the liner has separated from the casting. At operating temperature the separation probably becomes an oil passage. At the elevated temperatures we're running, I can understand that separation getting pretty big at the temps we're getting on the rear jugs.

They probably look fine when they're cold. Stick them in an oven at 400 degrees and you'll probably get oil dripping out between the sleeve and casting.

None os this is fact, just my backseat analysis.