Topic: SE Compensator Sprocket Update (Read 9596 times)

HDDOCFL · « **on:** August 06, 2010, 09:03:34 AM »

I upgraded to the SE Comp Sprocket in my 09 SERG yesterday, total time four hours none stop with all the right tools. The inner primary had to come off as I expected so I already had all the parts needed to do the job. Results! no more rattle in the primary, easyer quiter starts and no more clunk when shifting. Also lost a slight vibration I had when riding two up and doing roll ons. which was felt in the floor boards. All pluses so far. Easy install, just a lot of extra work because of the inner primary having to come off. Doc

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #1 on:** August 06, 2010, 09:22:19 AM »

Also as a note. The stock compensator was worn badly and the springs where very loose. Doc

panhead1 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 06, 2010, 09:49:06 AM »

Do you know which bikes had issues with the comp sprocket? Always hear people talking about using the SE one. I am wondering if maybe mine is having issues also on an 06 seuc. But just not sure if that could cause any noises anyways.

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #3 on:** August 06, 2010, 10:23:14 AM »

I believe it is only the 07 up touring models but your bike they did have some compensator bolts coming loose. Doc

guppytrash · « **Reply #4 on:** August 06, 2010, 10:52:41 AM »

Thanks for the info. Can you tell me what special tools I will need?

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #5 on:** August 06, 2010, 11:15:54 AM »

Quote from: guppytrash on August 06, 2010, 10:52:41 AM

Thanks for the info. Can you tell me what special tools I will need?

No special HD tools needed. 1/2" socket for the primary chain adjuster and inner primary bolts, 5/16" ball end allen socket to remove the floor boards and starter, 13/16"socket for the comp bolt and a 1 3/16" socket for the clutch hub, 3/16" allen for the primary cover bolts and shifter arm, 5/8" for the drian plug, t-27 torx for the derby cover screws. You can put the bike in gear and hold the rear brake down with a zip tie to loosen the clutch and comp nut and bolts, and another zip tie for the primary chain adjustor to hold it closed. blue and red lock tite. assembley lube for the new comp. parts and brakekleen to wash the new parts and clean the old. I use a wire wheel to clean all the bolts.Also a large pair of snap ring pliers to remove the clutch push rod plate snap ring. Doc.

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #6 on:** August 06, 2010, 11:19:58 AM »

The new SE Comp comes with the lock bolt, you will need primary oil, 5 inner primary bolts, a starter oring at the inner primary and a inner primary gasket and cover gasket, oring for the drain plug. Doc

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #7 on:** August 06, 2010, 11:21:17 AM »

I used the 96" inner primary gasket and it fit fine but is silver in color vs. black that came out. Doc

Rooster · « **Reply #8 on:** August 06, 2010, 01:21:38 PM »

DO NOT use air wrench to tighten comp nut. Very important.

FR8TRN · « **Reply #9 on:** August 06, 2010, 01:32:52 PM »

Quote from: HDDOCFL on August 06, 2010, 11:19:58 AM

The new SE Comp comes with the lock bolt, you will need primary oil, 5 inner primary bolts, a starter oring at the inner primary and a inner primary gasket and cover gasket, oring for the drain plug. Doc

I'm half tempted to do the chrome inner along with it, would like to see if it has the lip or not though, so if I have to replace the stator down the line it doesn't require removing the inner.....

Rooster · « **Reply #10 on:** August 06, 2010, 01:39:39 PM »

Per Jim HDdude, use the Baker bearing much better than the HD one.

aclass · « **Reply #11 on:** August 06, 2010, 08:51:00 PM »

The HD chrome inner has the lip.

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #12 on:** August 07, 2010, 11:16:25 AM »

I have removed the rotors from a 07-08-09 and everyone one of them the inner primary had to be removed to remove the rotor. Doc

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #13 on:** August 07, 2010, 11:33:10 AM »

Quote from: Rooster on August 06, 2010, 01:39:39 PM

Per Jim HDdude, use the Baker bearing much better than the HD one.

Inner primary bearing?

Texas 103 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 07, 2010, 01:02:44 PM »

Quote from: HDDOCFL on August 06, 2010, 09:03:34 AM

I upgraded to the SE Comp Sprocket in my 09 SERG yesterday, total time four hours none stop with all the right tools. The inner primary had to come off as I expected so I already had all the parts needed to do the job. Results! no more rattle in the primary, easyer quiter starts and no more clunk when shifting. Also lost a slight vibration I had when riding two up and doing roll ons. which was felt in the floor boards. All pluses so far. Easy install, just a lot of extra work because of the inner primary having to come off. Doc

Got both of mine done under warranty, Hard starting and kickback are the magic words....

guppytrash · « **Reply #15 on:** August 07, 2010, 02:31:49 PM »

My dealer is taking care of mine also. I had to whine more than metric bike to get it done.
Kudos to good dealers!
This is another obvious "corner cutting/cost saver" that HD should take care of.

Rooster · « **Reply #16 on:** August 07, 2010, 03:08:13 PM »

Quote from: HDDOCFL on August 07, 2010, 11:33:10 AM

Inner primary bearing?

Check with Jim and he can give you the part number.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #17 on:** August 07, 2010, 05:13:00 PM »

Image is page from the Baker catalog showing the bearing and seal kit. Jim will probably be cheaper and will definitely be surer but here's an eBay listing for a second option.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110557406918

Rooster · « **Reply #18 on:** August 08, 2010, 12:51:05 AM »

That looks like the one. Thanks Don

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #19 on:** August 08, 2010, 07:56:33 AM »

I assume you would have to remove the stock inner bearing race with this sealed bearing ? Thanks Doc.

Rooster · « **Reply #20 on:** August 08, 2010, 10:11:28 AM »

Mine had walked inward and caused the damage. The dealer that fixed mine went into the tranny to make sure no trans damage. Other than that I don't know if it needed to be removed. The first time dealer installed Evo Ind. 30t sprocket with no comp assembly. Around town was nice but over 50 had bad vibrations. Now have SE comp Assembly and no vibration.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #21 on:** August 08, 2010, 11:14:53 AM »

Quote from: HDDOCFL on August 08, 2010, 07:56:33 AM

I assume you would have to remove the stock inner bearing race with this sealed bearing ? Thanks Doc.

Yes.

fatboi1959 · « **Reply #22 on:** August 08, 2010, 02:53:03 PM »

Also the bearing is two side shielded and Baker recommended I remove the inner shield to allow more oil into the bearing.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #23 on:** August 08, 2010, 04:10:30 PM »

Quote from: fatboi1959 on August 08, 2010, 02:53:03 PM

Also the bearing is two side shielded and Baker recommended I remove the inner shield to allow more oil into the bearing.

Just remembered had one here still in the box. It's an NTN bearing. Though pretty sure I remember one of the previous ones I'd used being a BCA. Same spec bearing so wouldn't matter.

Jim, you've written before of using these bearings. Do you strip the oil shield off one side and install that inboard? When I ordered the three I bought last year their rep never mentioned it and quite frankly I never gave it a thought.

guppytrash · « **Reply #24 on:** August 12, 2010, 06:06:13 PM »

Well the dealer just finished mine. The very first start was obvious. Night and day difference on the feel of the start.
I can NOT believe the difference.
Old start was like pounding your fist into the open palm of your other hand....bang bang bang
Now it is like rubbing your open palms back and forth....so much smoother.
Would certainly never thought to go in this direction if I had not been on this forum. Thanks to you all!

My bike has never started this smooth, not from day one.

Author Topic: SE Compensator Sprocket Update (Read 9596 times)