Topic: check engine light (Read 13789 times)

toddm · « **on:** May 24, 2006, 07:40:37 PM »

anyone have the check engine lamp come on when you are driving my pumpkin seems to be running well i checked all the fluids the only thing i did was changed to vance and hines slip ons the lamp never came on when i first switch the ovals now all of a sudden the lamp illuminates when im driving

hdnut · « **Reply #1 on:** May 25, 2006, 07:52:58 AM »

I have the Ovals on mine,have not had a problem [smiley=nixweiss.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

grc · « **Reply #2 on:** May 25, 2006, 08:42:16 AM »

Quote

anyone have the check engine lamp come on when you are driving my pumpkin seems to be running well i checked all the fluids the only thing i did was changed to vance and hines slip ons the lamp never came on when i first switch the ovals now all of a sudden the lamp illuminates when im driving

Todd,

Very unlikely this has anything to do with your mufflers. You need to check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) stored in your ECM. You could have a sensor going bad, loose connections somewhere, etc. The ECM monitors all of the sensors plus various other functions, and when it gets a response that is out of the normal range it will set a code in memory and illuminate the check engine light. If you want to check for codes yourself, the owner's manual will tell you how to enter diagnostic mode on your speedometer display. You're looking for codes that start with a letter, followed by 4 numbers, such as "P0140".

Jerry

grc · « **Reply #3 on:** May 25, 2006, 09:52:53 AM »

BTW - the attachment lists the DTC's and what they mean.

Jerry

hd-dude · « **Reply #4 on:** May 25, 2006, 09:59:43 AM »

Here is more data and info on how to retrieve the codes via the speedo readout:

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).

Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range
and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module)
to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module (EFI) / (Ignition Control Module, 'Carbureted')
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be
displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up.
Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9.
If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

--------------------------

DTC FAULT CONDITION MODULE

B0563 Battery Voltage High TSM/TSSM
B1004 Fuel Level Sending Unit Low Instruments
B1005 Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open Instruments
B1006 Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1007 Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1008 Reset Switch Closed Instruments
B1131 Alarm Output Low TSM/TSSM
B1132 Alarm Output High TSM/TSSM
B1134 Starter Output High TSM/TSSM
B1135 Accelerometer Fault TSM/TSSM
B1151 Sidecar BAS Low TSM/TSSM
B1152 Sidecar BAS High TSM/TSSM
B1153 Sidecar BAS Out of Range TSM/TSSM
P0106 MAP Sensor Rate of Range Error Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Failed Open/Low Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0108 Map Sensor Failed High Carb
P0108 Map Sensor High EFI
P0112 IAT Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0117 ET Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0122 TP Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0123 TP Sensor High EFI
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P0262 Front Injector High EFI
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P0264 Rear Injector High EFI
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent Carb
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent EFI
P0374 CKP Sensor Not Detected Carb
P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error EFI
P0501 VSS Low Carb
P0501 VSS Low EFI
P0502 VSS High/Open Carb
P0502 VSS High/Open EFI
P0505 Loss of Idle Sped Control EFI
P0562 Battery Voltage Low Carb
P0562 Battery Voltage Low EFI
P0563 Battery Voltage High Carb
P0563 Battery Voltage High EFI
P0602 Calibration Memory Error Carb
P0603 EEPROM Failure Carb
P0603 ECM EEPROM Error EFI
P0604 RAM Failure Carb
P0605 Program Memory Error Carb
P0605 ECM Flash Error EFI
P0607 Converter Error Carb
P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low EFI
P1002 System relay Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EFI
P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed EFI
P1009 Incorrect Password Carb
P1009 Incorrect Password EFI
P1010 Missing Password Carb
P1010 Missing Password EFI
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low Carb
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low EFI
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low Carb
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low EFI
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1357 Intermittent Secondary Front EFI
P1358 Intermittent Secondary Rear EFI
U1016 Loss of ICM/ECM Serial Data Instruments
U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data, Vehicle Speed, Vehicle Inhibit Motion or Powertrain Security Status TSM/TSSM
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Carb
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data EFI
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Instruments
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data Carb
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data EFI
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data TSM/TSSM
U1255 Missing Message at Speedometer EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message Instruments
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message TSM/TSSM
U1300 Serial Data Low Carb
U1300 Serial Data Low EFI
U1300 Serial Data Low Instruments
U1300 Serial Data Low TSM/TSSM
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Carb
U1301 Serial Data Open/High EFI
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Instruments
U1301 Serial Data Open/High TSM/TSSM

-----------------------
AFR – Air Fuel Ratio

ATS – Air Temperature Sensor

BAS – Bank Angle Sensor

CCM – Cruise Control Module

CKP – Crank Position Sensor. The CKP generates an “AC signal” which is sent to the ECM where it is used to reference engine position (TDC) and speed.

DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Codes

05Rider · « **Reply #5 on:** May 25, 2006, 07:49:40 PM »

[highlight]

Quote

[/highlight]
Here is more data and info on how to retrieve the codes via the speedo readout:

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).

Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

hd-dude, thanks for all that great info on the DTC's. I don't need any of this now. I will maintain a copy just in case I ever do!!

Ride Often - Ride Safe [smiley=helmet.gif]

Jock · « **Reply #6 on:** May 25, 2006, 08:55:52 PM »

hd-dude,

Thanks for that great information...

Fired00d · « **Reply #7 on:** May 25, 2006, 09:08:45 PM »

The above information is what makes this place so great. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] Just imagine you call your dealership and tell your service advisor that you have a check engine light on. Now we all know his reply is going to be bring it in, and we'll check it out for you (at the cost of $45 - $65 and up an hour) to only find out you had a loose connection somewhere. Then you find out that you could've found the problem and fixed it yourself.

I'll be the first to admit I'm not mechanically inclined, but I do know where I've got a lot of friends that are (in case you didn’t already guess it’s CVOHarley.com). Because of that I've increased my mechanically ability tremendously for the short time I've been here.

/me waits for the day he can come here and give a play by play account of his first bike build!!!

Ok, lets change that it will be bike "assembly". I dare say my first attempt will be a "kit" bike, as I don't want to have to "fabricate" much on the first attempt.

[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]

toddm · « **Reply #8 on:** May 25, 2006, 09:35:11 PM »

you guys are the best heres what i came up with p1353 p1356 p1357 then came pn32927-04 what is the pn32927-04everything else was good please help.

Fired00d · « **Reply #9 on:** May 25, 2006, 09:50:26 PM »

My first thought when I saw the number in question "PN32927-04" was that it was a part number. I checked my 2004 Parts Catalog, but couldn't find anything. Sorry.

[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]

toddm · « **Reply #10 on:** May 25, 2006, 09:52:18 PM »

me to fire i thought the same hopefully someone will have an answer

SEULTRA · « **Reply #11 on:** May 25, 2006, 10:39:44 PM »

FireD00d--- I suspect that (like the rest of us) if want was has you'd have it all!

You got it bad bro' and that's good ... now about that stock you have in 50 chrome plating companies... [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]

[smiley=drink.gif]

Bungy · « **Reply #12 on:** May 26, 2006, 01:08:39 AM »

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed

hd-dude · « **Reply #13 on:** May 26, 2006, 01:21:48 AM »

The PNxxx must be the part number of the module, (as Bungy stated and per item

. I wou;d clear the codes and the repeat the process to see if they are current or historic. If they clear then ride it for a while and see if they come back.

Screamin_Beagle · « **Reply #14 on:** May 26, 2006, 06:53:37 AM »

Is all this shtick in the manual......never read mine......I guess I have a weekend homework assignment. HD.....you are truely a master of the universe.......

_Beagle

toddm · « **Reply #15 on:** May 26, 2006, 06:33:05 PM »

hd dude and the rest of you all are the goods fixed the problem and of course saved money from the stealership just wanted to thank all who helped out

Fired00d · « **Reply #16 on:** May 26, 2006, 06:45:19 PM »

Quote

hd dude and the rest of you all are the goods fixed the problem and of course saved money from the stealership just wanted to thank all who helped out

Was it just a matter of clearing (historical) codes? Or was one of those DTC's the problem? Just was wondering in case I ever run across this problem.

[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]

toddm · « **Reply #17 on:** May 26, 2006, 07:08:41 PM »

it sure was cleared the codes and ran the bike next thing you know all codes came up good again thanks to all

LETS_ROLL · « **Reply #18 on:** May 26, 2006, 11:36:27 PM »

When you cleared the codes, did the light go out? Let's Roll

gocatgoracin · « **Reply #19 on:** June 24, 2006, 08:22:50 PM »

would all of the information apply to the 2002 FLHRSEI

Unbalanced · « **Reply #20 on:** June 28, 2006, 03:45:02 PM »

Quote

* Fired00d waits for the day he can come here and give a play by play account of his first bike build!!!

Ok, lets change that it will be bike "assembly". I dare say my first attempt will be a "kit" bike, as I don't want to have to "fabricate" much on the first attempt.

I wish you all the best with this Firedood, but it scares me to know you will someday attempt this .... Especially after knowing how the other upgrades went while on the phone with you

hehehheheh

Craftsman tools are the way to go so when you break them you can replace them

Gary, BTW did I tell ... i guess i didnt, you will have to call to find out <G> ttyl.

-harry

Fired00d · « **Reply #21 on:** June 28, 2006, 04:13:59 PM »

Quote

.... Especially after knowing how the other upgrades went while on the phone with you hehehheheh.....-harry

[smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]

gocatgoracin · « **Reply #22 on:** June 28, 2006, 07:46:07 PM »

hddude, do you anybody know what it takes to diagnose engine codes on the 2002 flhrsei?

bigdog257 · « **Reply #23 on:** June 28, 2006, 07:57:11 PM »

Gocat, I'd try to message them if they don't get back. It's the easiest way to contact someone straight up.

Bob (Bigdog)

gocatgoracin · « **Reply #24 on:** June 28, 2006, 10:00:39 PM »

Thanks bigdog for the advice, I'm still pretty new to this stuff, something is causing my bike to miss and cut out, and I am getting deperate. Thanks again

Ed Ramberger - One_Screamin_Eagle · « **Reply #25 on:** July 10, 2006, 10:18:06 PM »

The no combustion code is the ION sense feature of the ecm. It could be related to the mufflers. When the ECM thinks it didn't combust (it monitors ions in the combustion chamber by using an 80v reference signal through the coil secondary) it sets the code. It monitors and sets the code under load - either high rpm or low rom & high throttle.

UK Dave · « **Reply #26 on:** July 17, 2006, 06:35:41 PM »

Hey guys - I keep getting this trouble code on my HDI 2005 SEEG

P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI

BTW Thanks to HD Dude for the tutorial - v. helpful

The bike is running OK - no problems that I can notice

Where should I be looking?

I assume I have a loose connection somewhere.

What is the IAT Sensor (Ignition Advance???)

Cheers

Dave

PS I just found it on Harley Hog's http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/0405troublecodes.htm site - it's Intake Air Temperature (Duh - shouldda guessed...)

He has a (seemingly) comprehensive listing of trouble codes and abbreviations for the 04/05 bikes

Now I know where to start looking

Thanks HH

Dave

hdnut · « **Reply #27 on:** July 30, 2006, 09:49:19 AM »

The code that came up was PO113,I cleared it out and ran the motor and the code stayed cleared out. [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]Anyone know more about what this code means? [smiley=nixweiss.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

ace4059 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 30, 2006, 10:44:00 AM »

Quote

The above information is what makes this place so great. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] Just imagine you call your dealership and tell your service advisor that you have a check engine light on. Now we all know his reply is going to be bring it in, and we'll check it out for you (at the cost of $45 - $65 and up an hour) to only find out you had a loose connection somewhere. Then you find out that you could've found the problem and fixed it yourself.

I'll be the first to admit I'm not mechanically inclined, but I do know where I've got a lot of friends that are (in case you didn’t already guess it’s CVOHarley.com). Because of that I've increased my mechanically ability tremendously for the short time I've been here.

[highlight]/me waits for the day he can come here and give a play by play account of his first bike build!!![/highlight]
Ok, lets change that it will be bike "assembly". I dare say my first attempt will be a "kit" bike, as I don't want to have to "fabricate" much on the first attempt.

[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]

dOOd, Paul Sr. at OCC once said the same thing, and look at him now!!!

hd-dude · « **Reply #29 on:** July 30, 2006, 11:13:15 AM »

Quote

The code that came up was PO113,I cleared it out and ran the motor and the code stayed cleared out. [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]Anyone know more about what this code means? [smiley=nixweiss.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

That is the code for the intake air temp sensor. you may have a loose connection at the sensor. The sensor is located on the throttle body.

hdnut · « **Reply #30 on:** July 30, 2006, 12:13:09 PM »

Thanks I will go check that right away! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

hdnut · « **Reply #31 on:** July 30, 2006, 04:51:15 PM »

Checked all the plugs on the throttle body,none felt loose? [smiley=nixweiss.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

UK Dave · « **Reply #32 on:** July 30, 2006, 06:03:05 PM »

I had the same code showing up - PO113 - I would clear the code and it would keep coming back after I ran the bike for a bit.

Checked the connection - didn't seem loose or anything so I unplugged the connector (to the Intake Air Temp sensor) and reconnected it - et voila - no problem codes anymore

Hoo-Ray [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]

Cheers

Dave

hdnut · « **Reply #33 on:** July 30, 2006, 06:34:21 PM »

I will try that UK Dave ,Thank's for all Your help Guy's,this site is the best! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

hd-dude · « **Reply #34 on:** July 31, 2006, 12:32:21 AM »

Pick up some dielectric grease to put on the connector when you reinstall it. If that is the problem it will prevent the connector from corroding

UK Dave · « **Reply #35 on:** September 01, 2006, 08:13:11 AM »

Update

I have my trouble codes back again

This may be due to the other problem I have had of the A/F mounting screws which snapped.

I jury rigged the filter back on with ty-raps (and have been too lazy to install the replacement bolts so kindly supplied FoC by Zippers) which worked just fine but this could be allowing the whole thing to vibrate a bit too much which could be disturbing the connection (of the Air Temp Sensor)

Job for the weekend I think - it's gonna be wet here so no riding on Saturday.

Cheers

Dave

flhse · « **Reply #36 on:** September 01, 2006, 09:22:55 AM »

My 04 started showing this code while in Rapid City earlier this month. It set about 3 times, each time I cleared it out it would seem to eventually come back. I thought it might be from hard riding in high temps that we had out there, but I'm thinking maybe not now. The wiring and everything seemed ok, so it might take more that a basic look over. Remember there are 2 ends to that wire, either end could be the issue as well as the sensor.

If you find anything, let us know. I'll be out all next week on the Candy ride, I'll see if it sets in the cooler weather then.

Brad

UK Dave · « **Reply #37 on:** March 20, 2007, 07:18:29 PM »

The bike was in for dyno tune today but we couldn't complete the runs because the darned P0113 code started to show again and this screwed the AFR

This after like 6 months of no problems.

Will strip out the connectors (again) and try to make a better connection

We think it happened on the dyno because the front wheel is clamped and this sets up different vibes to normal street running - any thoughts anyone?

Cheers

Dave

flhse · « **Reply #38 on:** September 17, 2007, 09:15:28 AM »

Just going to add to this post, I found that the wires had been stressed and broke at the connector for the AIT. I had to replace both wires for a few inches up the harness. I don't know why the wires on this particular sensor became stressed, but was easy to find once I started to look.

Also, much to my suprise, I found the nut had fallen off the upper stabilizer where it attached to the motor mount. It appeared they used too short of a bolt.

The nylon lock nut would not go on far enough to lock it. I got another longer bolt that the new nylon lock actually would make it on the threads to lock it. Bike does not shake as much now either.

Another high quality assembly. Besides the shifter linkage falling off, what is next?

Brad

Heading to TN for the High Octane ride soon

UK Dave · « **Reply #39 on:** September 17, 2007, 11:54:27 AM »

Hi flhse - mine turned out to be the exact same problem, the conductors of one of the wires were broken within the insulation about an inch up from the connector - as you say easy to see once you start looking for that - the cable looks a bit thinner and "floppy" where the copper cores are broken.

I finally tracked it down when no amount of playing around with the connectors would get rid of the error code

I cut the connector off at the break and pieced in two lengths of wire (soldered and heat-shrink wrapped the joints) and there has been no problem since.

I also noticed the other day the front engine mount bolt was completely loose

It's behind the oil cooler and under the regulator so it's not that easy to see and only spotted it while doing a real good clean of that area.

Oil cooler off (leave the pipes connected) and regulator loosened right off and I could get in to tighten-up the mount bolt. (Item 4 in the diagram)

Just another thing to keep checking I guess

Cheers

Dave

hdnut · « **Reply #40 on:** October 03, 2007, 07:48:48 PM »

My seeg is giving off the same code again so I am going to have to check all the wires to the sensor!

UK Dave · « **Reply #41 on:** October 04, 2007, 04:09:32 AM »

Hi hdnut

When you are checking, once you have uncoupled the connector from the sensor in the air manifold, give the connector a good steady pull - this will stretch the cables a little and if you have the same problem I and flhse had you will notice the insulation on one leg will stretch more where the wire core is broken.

Good Luck!!

Cheers

Dave

hdnut · « **Reply #42 on:** October 04, 2007, 05:26:46 AM »

I will try that UK Dave.Thank You!

flhse · « **Reply #43 on:** October 04, 2007, 10:11:03 AM »

Only one of the wires were broke on mine to begin with, by the time I fixed theat wire the other had broke. So I thought I was done, and had to do the other wire after I had the tank back on. You can reomve the 3 bolts holding the tank, release the quick disconect fuel line and raise the tank to access the wires. Use a 2x3 or something to hold the tank up. The terminals are removed from the connector with a safety pin, they are a pull to seat, which means they come out the front of the connector. I used new terminals and put them on new wires, pulled them into the connector and spliced them into the good wire a couple inches up. Its not easy, so tight with the harness length and protective coverings.

Good luck.

Brad

hdnut · « **Reply #44 on:** October 21, 2007, 09:56:09 AM »

Well I went to the dealer for first come first serve service on Saturday and had them fix the short in the air temp. sensor. Took the tech. about 2 and a half hours to fix the problem and I told him what to look for. They only charged me $80.25 to fix it and that included two new air cleaner breather hoses that were cracked. No more check engine light and me and the misses are going on a long ride today to take advantage of the great fall weather we are having !

Thanks for all the help, you guys are great!

Author Topic: check engine light (Read 13789 times)