Topic: 05 FLHTCSE2 motor upgrades (Read 9152 times)

MILLER82 · « **on:** December 06, 2011, 03:44:38 PM »

hello all i am new to this site and i have a 2005 FLHTCSE2. i have been riding for about 15 years and this is my second touring bike.
This winter i am planning on upgrading the cam chain tensioners, i have looked at buying the whole kit thru andrews with a new cam. My buddy owns his own shop and will be porting my heads and doing a valve job. He talked about decking the heads to raise compression but i have read abou my motor having the flat top pistons.
Has any one ou there done something similiar that could give any advice, and what cams andrews makes would be a good mid range cam?
Any help is appreciated thanks

hogasm · « **Reply #1 on:** December 06, 2011, 04:12:52 PM »

Clean up the heads
S&S 570's
cut valve pockets in pistons

that is all.....great runner and reliable

mattm · « **Reply #2 on:** December 06, 2011, 05:53:03 PM »

Consider the SE cam plate that uses of the "new" tensioners along with the better SE oil pump.

1sharprdkg · « **Reply #3 on:** December 06, 2011, 06:26:35 PM »

Welcome to the site from Tennessee! If you can think of an engine mod...somebody here has already done it.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #4 on:** December 06, 2011, 07:54:04 PM »

Many here got very good performance out of that motor with just the "normal" air filter and exhaust changes and the addition of Zippers 575 cams. If you don't wish to pull heads nor do any other work that cam change by itself made many 103 riders very happy. It's a cam delivering early torque.

That cam was done with the stock 103s in mind. Yuill Brothers did one also and at the same time. Many here also used that cam set. It was also well received by came in little later and lasted a little longer. Pick your poison.

Cvostu · « **Reply #5 on:** December 06, 2011, 08:30:10 PM »

I have the 570g s&s cams also. Couldn't be happier.

hd-dude · « **Reply #6 on:** December 06, 2011, 09:27:51 PM »

Welcome tot he site, As twolane posted for a bolt in the Zippers and Yuill Bros YB-13 are great cams that were designed specifically for the 03-06 CVO 103 engines. These cams both work very well and am sure that there are several dozens of members here that have used them. Consistantly around the country these cams produced between 100-110 horsepower and 100-115 ftlbs of torque. A good exhaust AC kit, pipes, and probably most importantly tune with these cams make the early 103's come alive. If your looking for more power than that then the heads will need to come off and have some work done to them. In this case you will want to discuss the cam choice with whomever is doing the work on the heads.

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #7 on:** December 07, 2011, 07:19:10 AM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on December 06, 2011, 03:44:38 PM

hello all i am new to this site and i have a 2005 FLHTCSE2. i have been riding for about 15 years and this is my second touring bike.
This winter i am planning on upgrading the cam chain tensioners, i have looked at buying the whole kit thru andrews with a new cam. My buddy owns his own shop and will be porting my heads and doing a valve job. He talked about decking the heads to raise compression but i have read abou my motor having the flat top pistons.
Has any one ou there done something similiar that could give any advice, and what cams andrews makes would be a good mid range cam?
Any help is appreciated thanks

www.woodcarbs.com has several cams that will push off very good power on that bike.
Your friend that you are planning on doing the port work, might want to call them, for a good suggestion.
He then, should be able to take the ball, and run with it from there.

Scott

sadunbar · « **Reply #8 on:** December 07, 2011, 11:03:10 AM »

Dave Mackie has a nice selection of cams for your motor you might consider... I've always had good experiences with Dave's stuff.

http://davemackie.com/cams.html

MILLER82 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 07, 2011, 02:39:40 PM »

thanks for all the advice i have the starter out of my bike redoing the starter clutch now and soon as i get it back together i am gonna get it to his shop and start tearing it down.

my only worries is my buddy who does all my engine upgrades and head work dont really understand that i want to keep the reliability of the bike. he wants to deck the heads wich inturn he will have to shave some off the manifold to make it fit the new angle, port heads valves + springs and maybe even port the manifold.
i am just worried but he assures me it will be ok. he has been into nhra prostock bikes for years and does some nice stuff on the older suzukis.

what size over on the valves shoul i be looking at?

Unbalanced · « **Reply #10 on:** December 07, 2011, 03:07:10 PM »

If memory serves me i "believe" you will find that the largest you can get away with is 1.940 with the seats that are in there. If memory serves me correctly I believe John Sachs stated in a past post on this site that .060 was about the most you could deck those heads and I do not believe you had to worry about trimming the intake.

Personally I would shoot for 10 to 1.

I like the S&S 570 at 10 to 1 with a 337 gear change. My 107 made 119/109 with the SS 570's. My wifes 103 makes 117/115 with the YB13 at 10.25 to 1 (as stated above it comes in later though more mid / top)

both used flat tops.

Good luck with your build.

MILLER82 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 07, 2011, 03:17:22 PM »

both the 103 and 107 sounds like they made som pretty good power

thanks

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #12 on:** December 07, 2011, 04:08:58 PM »

If stepping to a 107"er and BIG torque that turns on like a light switch, is what your after, fellow forum member timtoolman's bike pushes off just shy of 120/120.
He runs a Wood TW-400.
That cam is ground from the C/L as the 6, 6H, 7H, and "44 Magnum", to name a few.
The 400 is the big-un.

Scott

MILLER82 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 07, 2011, 04:15:03 PM »

thanks ill be sticking with the 103

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #14 on:** December 07, 2011, 07:01:54 PM »

I posted up a sheet with the 54 cam.( sheet is about half way down on this page) Either way 103 or 107 they will work great without a ton of work. WAY better than the stock set up.

You still may find that you will need to bore and hone the cylinders. If you do the gains going to 107 are going to show up very nice. 110 hp and 122 tq with no fancy parts at all.

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #15 on:** December 08, 2011, 07:31:34 AM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on December 07, 2011, 04:15:03 PM

thanks ill be sticking with the 103

Even staying with a 103"er, we've had carbed machines,(EFI will roll off more, as the ability to tune more) of this cubic inch, tuned at a outfit in PA, push off 119/119.
45 Mik, Thunderheader, Wood 9B's, our heads.

Scott

MILLER82 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 13, 2011, 11:08:55 AM »

i ordered the cam conversion kit yesterday and my indy recommended the 55n andrews cam

i cant wait to start tearing into it

MILLER82 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 14, 2011, 11:28:40 AM »

i havent ordered the head gaskets yet should i order the cometic .030 or go with stock size since i will be milling the heads my tech said he could just mill off based on wich one i get

wich one would be the best

Unbalanced · « **Reply #18 on:** December 14, 2011, 04:47:20 PM »

Anyone answering this is just guessing until you fill in the blanks.

What pistons are you using? Do you know the CC Value of the piston such as -1.5 cc or +7 cc ...
How many CC's are the heads?
Are you at 0 deck height ? If not, how far in the hole are the pistons?
Are you switching the pistons?
You need to know what compression the cam will handle.
What compression do you want for the bike when your done?

This all plays into the scenario.

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #19 on:** December 15, 2011, 07:07:25 AM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on December 14, 2011, 11:28:40 AM

i havent ordered the head gaskets yet should i order the cometic .030 or go with stock size since i will be milling the heads my tech said he could just mill off based on wich one i get

wich one would be the best

The .030" head gasket is always a positive, as long as it is factored in to the compression equation, as the closer you can put the piston to the cylinder head during normal operating temps, without contact, the better you are able to control/eliminate detonation.

Scott

MILLER82 · « **Reply #20 on:** December 21, 2011, 11:54:36 AM »

started the process last night i removed tank exhaust tb manifold rocker covers and arms. it wasnt too bad of job the part that worries me is the cam chest
i got the conversion kit from andrews with the 55n cam

i hope i can finish it!

hogasm · « **Reply #21 on:** December 22, 2011, 06:32:44 AM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on December 21, 2011, 11:54:36 AM

started the process last night i removed tank exhaust tb manifold rocker covers and arms. it wasnt too bad of job the part that worries me is the cam chest
i got the conversion kit from andrews with the 55n cam

i hope i can finish it!

With the correct tools....no problems

Just be careful of the o rings when reinstalling

MILLER82 · « **Reply #22 on:** December 22, 2011, 09:40:49 AM »

i saw an oring on the back of the cam plate

now im finding out i dont have the cam bearing tool does anyone have they would loan i would pay a little bit to use it

Twolanerider · « **Reply #23 on:** December 22, 2011, 10:21:55 AM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on December 22, 2011, 09:40:49 AM

i saw an oring on the back of the cam plate

now im finding out i dont have the cam bearing tool does anyone have they would loan i would pay a little bit to use it

If changing cams you'll need more than a bearing removal tool. Separate tool for bearing installation. Another to align the cams to press them in to came plate. You're in need of several things actually. Would loan you all mine but they're already on loan to someone else right now.

Check out Heartland Products on Amazon. Not sure they offer everything. But what they do offer is usually quite a bit less expensive than the other sources. Or, for very good tools from a place that will have everything, check out George's Garage. You could call George, tell him the job you're doing, and he'll send the tools you need for the job. Good guy, fair prices and very good tools.

I understand that it's a bit late in the task for this kind of homework. Sounds like this is your next required step though. George's is a good source. Also, those connectors at the fuel injectors are sometimes a bit delicate. The wires have been known to break where they make the turn down to the injector. Rather than just twisting everything up there on top of the frame might be worthwhile to actually remove the TB and let the harness relax more.

http://www.georges-garage.com/

MILLER82 · « **Reply #24 on:** December 22, 2011, 02:34:00 PM »

got the bearings pulled on lunch with auto zone blind bearing puller

got the new ones installed

not sure about the press to press in new cams

MILLER82 · « **Reply #25 on:** January 31, 2012, 09:47:48 AM »

so i got the motor all sealed back up and all i have left is to put manifold on and tb

my question is the gut who done my heads is out for a week and he milled 60 off my heads how will i know what the compression is? has any one milled 60 off these heads and have a figure?

Twolanerider · « **Reply #26 on:** January 31, 2012, 10:10:16 AM »

With the data known can't know with any accuracy. Are pistons the same? Any other work done in the head pockets? Also, it's a little late in the process to only now be wondering about something as important as what the CR is going to be. All the significant engine specs should be decided as targets before you start and the parts and build done accordingly.

However.... You've got another issue to pay attention to. Assuming you've changed to some higher lift cam. You're now saying the heads have also been cut nearly a 1/16". Hopefully you're not using a thinner gasket also. Whatever you're using, however, you need to check very carefully for clearance. It would suck to find out at first (attempted) start-up that a valve was now hitting a piston.

MILLER82 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 31, 2012, 10:20:22 AM »

nothing was done in the pockets i watched the head guy measure -lift of cam and the travel of valve/spring

and he said there was still more room left

Twolanerider · « **Reply #28 on:** January 31, 2012, 10:27:46 AM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on January 31, 2012, 10:20:22 AM

nothing was done in the pockets i watched the head guy measure -lift of cam and the travel of valve/spring

and he said there was still more room left

That "head guy" doing all the measurements with the parts in front of him should be your best source for a CR spec. What's he say?

MILLER82 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 31, 2012, 10:31:06 AM »

forgot to mention pistons are the same 54n andrews cam 555 lift 238 duration

hogasm · « **Reply #30 on:** January 31, 2012, 03:53:45 PM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on January 31, 2012, 10:31:06 AM

forgot to mention pistons are the same 54n andrews cam 555 lift 238 duration

Going to be close......30 off heads with 570's and you had better make some room. just for example....

Don if he used stock 45thou gaskets he ~~should~~ er... might be ok

johnsachs · « **Reply #31 on:** January 31, 2012, 06:19:52 PM »

my question is the gut who done my heads is out for a week and he milled 60 off my heads how will i know what the compression is? has any one milled 60 off these heads and have a figure?
[/quote]

Prolly be in the area of 86 cc.

cherryseeg2 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 01, 2012, 01:20:16 AM »

Mine ended up at 85cc with a .060 cut.

MILLER82 · « **Reply #33 on:** February 01, 2012, 09:33:19 PM »

So I got the bike fired up last night and it is idling great. But when I go to give it gas it dies out every time

I put on a 53 mm hpi tb and they are telling me that the tps module sounds like it is bad

Has any one had any experiences like this?

MILLER82 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 01, 2012, 09:39:38 PM »

Forgot to mention I have the tmax and they say I have the correct map

Also randy at tmax and Brian at HPI have both been very helpful!

hogasm · « **Reply #35 on:** February 02, 2012, 06:24:08 AM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on February 01, 2012, 09:39:38 PM

Forgot to mention I have the tmax and they say I have the correct map

Also randy at tmax and Brian at HPI have both been very helpful!

You did allow the Tmax to complete its initiation process

MILLER82 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 02, 2012, 07:53:09 AM »

Yeah I let it load and then shut it on and off for 30 sec three tines

hogasm · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2012, 11:02:43 AM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on February 02, 2012, 07:53:09 AM

Yeah I let it load and then shut it on and off for 30 sec three tines

I loaded one the other day for a guy and had to put fans on the motor while idling, it took forever to initialize. Once done everything was fine, just doesn't like to cold start.

MILLER82 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 02, 2012, 11:23:06 AM »

My buddy just dropped off a new TPS and I'm gonna install that at lunch and c what happens

I also have the stock ECM I might hook it up as well

MILLER82 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 02, 2012, 12:57:29 PM »

the tps module solved my problem

thanks for all the help!

MILLER82 · « **Reply #40 on:** March 09, 2012, 11:04:16 AM »

I have about 200 miles on this build thus far it runs great and i am very pleased, but i am getting a loud ticking sound in the valve train.

i know there is going to be more noise with what i have but the sound sounds like it is coming from the left side around the heads it sounds louder in the front cylinder. i have checked the adj prods and they seemed ok the noise is a little at start up but at about 2500 to 3300 it is the loudest it isnt so bad when im really getting on it but that might just be because the exhaust is a lot louder

my engine builder is coming over tis evening and is there any advice i shoul throw at him.

also i cant tell exactly where this is coming from is there any way it could be the injectors?

i have stock injectors w/ a 53mm tb and ported heads

sadunbar · « **Reply #41 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:29:20 PM »

Quote from: MILLER82 on March 09, 2012, 11:04:16 AM

I have about 200 miles on this build thus far it runs great and i am very pleased, but i am getting a loud ticking sound in the valve train.

i know there is going to be more noise with what i have but the sound sounds like it is coming from the left side around the heads it sounds louder in the front cylinder. i have checked the adj prods and they seemed ok the noise is a little at start up but at about 2500 to 3300 it is the loudest it isnt so bad when im really getting on it but that might just be because the exhaust is a lot louder

my engine builder is coming over tis evening and is there any advice i shoul throw at him.

also i cant tell exactly where this is coming from is there any way it could be the injectors?

i have stock injectors w/ a 53mm tb and ported heads

If not in the valvetrain, the sound you are hearing could be an exhaust leak... Could also be piston slap, but I'd check the easy stuff first...

Twolanerider · « **Reply #42 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:34:13 PM »

Also make sure motor mount is good (was it loosened to lower motor a bit to get any of the work done?). Make sure exhaust isn't hitting brake pedal or has a support bracket loose or broken somewhere. Maybe you'll be lucky to find a simple fix. Good luck.

Author Topic: 05 FLHTCSE2 motor upgrades (Read 9152 times)

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