Oh they knew, that's why they pushed for the extended warranty so they didn't have to pay themselves!  Then they get paid to do the work, dirtbags!

Where is that "LIKE" button?

So, I've been off the CVO website for about 3 years since i sold my 2006 CVO Ultra and have been riding a BMW R1200GSA as a second bike from 2010 to 2019 when I then traded for a 2019 R1250 BMW GSA. I love "Adventure" riding both on and off road, having done a Continental Divide ride in 2019 from Montana to New Mexico with about 75% of it offroad, and going about half way down the Baja Peninsula in 2020. Having seen the Pan America and test riding it a few times since it came out in 2021, it looked like Harley really put a lot of work into coming up with an advanced Adventure Bike to compete with BMW's 40 years of experience with the GS/GSA's.  Anyway, I've put over 80,000 miles on the two BMW's and decided to make a move back to Harley and got the 2024 Pan America CVO about 3 weeks ago.  I've still got my GSA wanting to compare them to make sure I was happy with the Pan America but I can tell you as of now, I really like it.  A new BMW 1300 GS today goes out the door for about 30K and I paid about that out the door for the CVO.  I'm happy with the choice so far.

Took her for a 160 mile mountain blast after work yesterday !

Oh they knew, that's why they pushed for the extended warranty so they didn't have to pay themselves!  Then they get paid to do the work, dirtbags!

Congratulations

i'm the person who bought Don's bike and since I purchased it last May have done nothing to it except fluid changes. Have put on approx.20,000 KMs (12,000 miles). Trips to Mexican Hat, Sturgis and local riding in Alberta and British Columbia.

Thanks for the feedback.  Always good to hear perspective from the new owner which supports the advice!

The 2015 CVO has a 110" engine. The valves are already 2.08 and 1.625. The stock CVO heads flow 18% more than the OEM heads!  It is not realistic to think the heads need any work whatsoever if you want to have a nice running bike that makes about 100-105hp/110tq. That can be had with a cam exhaust and tune.

Now if you are going to put miles on this bike the next steps are longevity items including new valve guides and a serdi valve job plus minor pocket porting, better lifters, valve springs lighter (weight) and lower pressure, adjustable rigid pushrods, inner cam bearings, and rocker lockers. 

I sold my 2013 to a forum member here, geezerglide, ask him, that is what I did to my bike. I was very satisfied with the performance and knew I had addressed longevity. He got on it and has riden cross country already trouble free. If the heads are off now they can be milled a conservative amount to get the compression up and a little bigger cam can be leveraged. I didn't, left the heads alone except good seals and the spring change, and used a very mild cam.

If you want a good sealing long runner that will make great power next step is boring to 113" (you stated not in the plan), headwork with a larger intake valve.
There are variants to these steps but notice a oil pump was not changed but when the cam is changed the crank is checked and that could spawn a whole frame out overhaul if the runout exceeds .006", a number I chose as a point where oil pump and cam plate are affected.
 
Conversation begins with how you ride, how many miles the bike will see, and what are your goals. What is your budget? What is your tolerance for hot rod manners at low engine speeds? Already touched on, what are you comfortable with as far as engine work and tools? Who will tune this engine after it is very far out of stock spec? This is not a "download of a canned map". Lots of things to consider before plunking down a wallet of money with a box store. If I am involved I want to talk to the tuner first and be sure we are on the same page there.

This is exactly the type of input I was looking to receive!  Many thanks for your sage wisdom and excellent feedback.  I ride fairly aggressively when solo and while I don't baby her when two-up, it isn't as aggressive.  Overall, I'm not a barn-burner and really not looking to build a TQ/HP monster.  I just want it to be bulletproof for lack of a better word and maximize what I can pull out of the engine without having to increase displacement.  I generally ride 30-40K a year spread across 1 other bike ('07 FXDC).  I'm 64 with both shoulders rebuilt a couple of times each and in need to both hips being replaced, so I foresee about 5 maybe 6 more years on 2 wheels.


To synopsize to make sure I read you correctly:

1.  The stock heads already flow fine and the valves would not need to be replaced.
2.  Bang for the buck changes would include:   Head work:  new valve guides, rocker lockers, springs (Beehive?), Serdi valve job, minor pocket porting and potentially a little
     milling to get compression up (getting the compression up to make use of a bigger cam is very much desired).  Cam chest:  Lifters, adjustable pushrods, ICB and an oil pump
     change is not truly necessary.
3.  Tune, tune, tune, not a canned map.

Again, many thanks for your input and insight.  It's forum members like you who make it worth posting questions like I have/had.  No judgement, just sage advice based on real world experience.

i'm the person who bought Don's bike and since I purchased it last May have done nothing to it except fluid changes. Have put on approx.20,000 KMs (12,000 miles). Trips to Mexican Hat, Sturgis and local riding in Alberta and British Columbia.

The 2015 CVO has a 110" engine. The valves are already 2.08 and 1.625. The stock CVO heads flow 18% more than the OEM heads!  It is not realistic to think the heads need any work whatsoever if you want to have a nice running bike that makes about 100-105hp/110tq. That can be had with a cam exhaust and tune.

Now if you are going to put miles on this bike the next steps are longevity items including new valve guides and a serdi valve job plus minor pocket porting, better lifters, valve springs lighter (weight) and lower pressure, adjustable rigid pushrods, inner cam bearings, and rocker lockers. 

I sold my 2013 to a forum member here, geezerglide, ask him, that is what I did to my bike. I was very satisfied with the performance and knew I had addressed longevity. He got on it and has riden cross country already trouble free. If the heads are off now they can be milled a conservative amount to get the compression up and a little bigger cam can be leveraged. I didn't, left the heads alone except good seals and the spring change, and used a very mild cam.

If you want a good sealing long runner that will make great power next step is boring to 113" (you stated not in the plan), headwork with a larger intake valve.
There are variants to these steps but notice a oil pump was not changed but when the cam is changed the crank is checked and that could spawn a whole frame out overhaul if the runout exceeds .006", a number I chose as a point where oil pump and cam plate are affected.
 
Conversation begins with how you ride, how many miles the bike will see, and what are your goals. What is your budget? What is your tolerance for hot rod manners at low engine speeds? Already touched on, what are you comfortable with as far as engine work and tools? Who will tune this engine after it is very far out of stock spec? This is not a "download of a canned map". Lots of things to consider before plunking down a wallet of money with a box store. If I am involved I want to talk to the tuner first and be sure we are on the same page there.

Welcome from the Tar Heel state!!!