Still need a t/body, roller rockers by rights, and the 120R's are about .7 point shy of compression to optimize their full potential with 266 cam, along with some sort of clutch set-up, and the cost of filter/fluids/plugs/gaskets, and the remove/replace labor. :(Scott
Well unless you're doing it yourself you are going to pay Labor if have a shop to RNR the whole engine from top to bottom..
I'm just saying by the time you take the engine down to the frame,
send off the cases and flywheels to one place, cylinders and heads to another,
then buy an intake/TB, get it all back and put it together with whichever cam
you choose, then, spend the dyno time unless you have a TTS map that you
supply when you do 110 heads for someone, you could have ordered
a 120R, put it in, added the intake anyway, and still had a spare 110 stock
to drop back in if you wanted to, or, sell the 110.
JMO it makes no sense to put any money into a 110 for massive power gains
when a 120R can be bought at a discount from many dealers.
Either way the warranty is gone.
If you live up north and like working on your bike, maybe it's a great winter project.
but down here I'd rather take the weekend to drop in a 120R, or Even an SNS 124 which
has a warranty BTW vs the 120R's no warranty.
Either way you're pushing over 130 RWHP and TQ easy with both engines....
WIth the swap it's
Remove primary and guts.
Remove engine mounting bolts.
Put Engine on Stand
Put 120R in Frame
Install Mounting bolts
Install primary and guts.
Download TTS Map
Ride...