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[FXR2evo99]

If you look at the plate shaft hole in relation to the shaft, (did i say that right) you can tell the shaft is way out of whack which leads me to believe the .056   I wonder what the wear on the shaft looks like.

If the tool was indeed placed correctly (ie: secured and "zeroed" out) then the results are what they are, like I mentioned above just checking to make sure the "proper" steps were followed, if you look closely at the above photo you will see two things:

1)  That the little dial is showing around "1" that indicates how many revolutions the dial indicator has gone around as
the needle of the dial indicator is seated on the shaft normally that number might show let's say 6 or perhaps 7 when or if the dial indicator gets to "10" essentially the needle of the dial indicator has been pushed 10 revolutions which "bottoms" out the dial indicator making it impossible to read anything, because of it being "bottomed out" and
there is then no "up" or "down" reading available to be made.

EDIT:

Opppps, I meant that the "smaller" dial indicator is at around 8 intead of the "1" as I stated above, which actually does result in the dial indicator being "somewhat" close to being bottomed out but it's not "officially" bottomed out.

2)  If you also look closely at the "exposed" shaft of the dial indicator at least from the angle of the photo it appears
to be "bottomed" out (although technically feuling did design it in such a way that you can't actually push the dial
indicater's round face so far down and touch the top of the feuling plate)  and if that's so then the little dial should be reading a "higher" number, and because it's not that sort of "begs" the question of why isn't it.  The dial indicator only needs to be pushed down on to the shaft enough to have the dial indicator's needle come into contact with the pinion shaft.  Once it is in contact then the set screw on the back of the plate is snugged against the shaft of the dial indicator just enough to hold it in postion keeping the dial indicator's shaft from moving up or down.  Once the shaft is "properly"
secured you then loosen the 1:00 o'clock "small" knob and
rotate the the face of the dial indicator and orient the face so zero on the indicator is located where the needle points to.   Once you have this set up then you rotate the rear tire  
slowly from the right side of the bike in a clockwise rotation as you rotate the tire one full revolution you will see the needle of the dial indicator move to the "left" of zero, slowly
rotate again remembering where you noticed the needle at the furthest to the left of zero, once you find this spot again
stop rotating the tire and go back to the dial indicator face and turn the dial indicator face to the left reorienting the face to read zero.  Now tighten the 1:00 o'clock knob of the dial indicator so it is snug which keeps the face in that position, this is called/referred to as "ZEROING OUT THE DIAL INDICATOR" once this is completed you are ready to check the "run-out", simply move yourself to the right side of the bike again and slowly rotate the tire in a "clockwise" position and watch the movement of the needle of the dial indicator, each line to the right that the needle moves is one thousanths (.001") of run-out.  You only need to rotate the tire 4 or so revolutions, I put a magic marker mark on the wheel to note a revolution.

Perhaps these steps were followed and if so then great if they weren't they need to be.

Weeewwwww I can't believe I typed all of that out, LOL.

Regards,

Tim

[sadunbar]

If the tool was indeed placed correctly (ie: secured and "zeroed" out) then the results are what they are, like I mentioned above just checking to make sure the "proper" steps were followed, if you look closely at the above photo you will see two things:

1)  That the little dial is showing around "1" that indicates how many revolutions the dial indicator has gone around as
the needle of the dial indicator is seated on the shaft normally that number might show let's say 6 or perhaps 7 when or if the dial indicator gets to "10" essentially the needle of the dial indicator has been pushed 10 revolutions which "bottoms" out the dial indicator making it impossible to read anything, because of it being "bottomed out" and
there is then no "up" or "down" reading available to be made.

2)  If you also look closely at the "exposed" shaft of the dial indicator at least from the angle of the photo it appears
to be "bottomed" out (although technically feuling did design it in such a way that you can't actually push the dial
indicater's round face so far down and touch the top of the feuling plate)  and if that's so then the little dial should be reading a "higher" number, and because it's not that sort of "begs" the question of why isn't it.  The dial indicator only needs to be pushed down on to the shaft enough to have the dial indicator's needle come into contact with the pinion shaft.  Once it is in contact then the set screw on the back of the plate is snugged against the shaft of the dial indicator just enough to hold it in postion keeping the dial indicator's shaft from moving up or down.  Once the shaft is "properly"
secured you then loosen the 1:00 o'clock "small" knob and
rotate the the face of the dial indicator and orient the face so zero on the indicator is located where the needle points to.   Once you have this set up then you rotate the rear tire  
slowly from the right side of the bike in a clockwise rotation as you rotate the tire one full revolution you will see the needle of the dial indicator move to the "left" of zero, slowly
rotate again remembering where you noticed the needle at the furthest to the left of zero, once you find this spot again
stop rotating the tire and go back to the dial indicator face and turn the dial indicator face to the left reorienting the face to read zero.  Now tighten the 1:00 o'clock knob of the dial indicator so it is snug which keeps the face in that position, this is called/referred to as "ZEROING OUT THE DIAL INDICATOR" once this is completed you are ready to check the "run-out", simply move yourself to the right side of the bike again and slowly rotate the tire in a "clockwise" position and watch the movement of the needle of the dial indicator, each line to the right that the needle moves is one thousanths (.001") of run-out.  You only need to rotate the tire 4 or so revolutions, I put a magic marker mark on the wheel to note a revolution.

Perhaps these steps were followed and if so then great if they weren't they need to be.

Weeewwwww I can't believe I typed all of that out, LOL.

Regards,

Tim

Let me try to comment...

The dial indicator used has 1" of travel.  10 revolutions of 100 thousands equals 1 inch.

The large indicator pointer travels clockwise.  The small indicator pointer travels counter-clockwise.  The motion of the gear on the large dial traveling clockwise drives the gear of the smaller pointer counter clockwise.  The gear on the larger pointer is 10 times the diameter of the gear on the smaller pointer.  This is why the numbers on the smaller dial are labeled in a counter clockwise direction and the numbers on the larger pointer are labeled in a clockwise direction.

The reading on the indicator is .856 (less than 1 inch) - which indicates the indicator is not bottomed out.

If attempting to measure a reading in excess of .100, it is necessary to "zero" out both the small dial pointer and the large dial pointer.  In this instance, you would need to read both the large dial and small dial numbers and add them together.  (.800 + .056 = .856)

If attempting to measure a reading less than .100, it is only necessary to "zero" out the large dial pointer.  In this case, Harry was attempting to measure a reading less that .100 - leaving the reading on the small dial meaningless.  Only the large dial numbers hold meaning. (.056)

The second and third photos are a visual indication of how much runout exists - and to my eye appear to be the .056 shown on the indicator.  So I believe the indicator was set up (zeroed) properly, and the runout is as Harry has stated - .056

This amount of runout at the extreme end of the shaft would certainly cause wear in the cam plate, and would certainly cause wear in the oil pump.  Given enough running time in this condition, eventually there would be a catastropic failure of the oil pump.  I think Harry was lucky to find the condition before more damage occured...

[Twolanerider]

Fill me in on your procedure on how you used it if you don't mind.

.056" would "typically" result in a total catastrophic failure.

Regards,

Tim

Harry had written a quite effective post answering your question earlier Tim.  He must have been dissatisfied with his own response as it was removed shortly after it was posted though. 

In any case the explanation was that of course he knew how to use his tool (that's not intended as a pun or double entendre).  He explained he was sure of its use and accuracy because... well.... because the mechanic who was actually using it had told him so. 

Harry generally doesn't work on his stuff himself (again, no pun nor double entendre intended).  He's more about improving the work of others after he's paid them to do it for him to begin with.

[SBB]

Harry had written a quite effective post answering your question earlier Tim.  He must have been dissatisfied with his own response as it was removed shortly after it was posted though. 

In any case the explanation was that of course he knew how to use his tool (that's not intended as a pun or double entendre).  He explained he was sure of its use and accuracy because... well.... because the mechanic who was actually using it had told him so. 

Harry generally doesn't work on his stuff himself (again, no pun nor double entendre intended).  He's more about improving the work of others after he's paid them to do it for him to begin with.

 

SBB

[sadunbar]

Harry had written a quite effective post answering your question earlier Tim.  He must have been dissatisfied with his own response as it was removed shortly after it was posted though. 

In any case the explanation was that of course he knew how to use his tool (that's not intended as a pun or double entendre).  He explained he was sure of its use and accuracy because... well.... because the mechanic who was actually using it had told him so. 

Harry generally doesn't work on his stuff himself (again, no pun nor double entendre intended).  He's more about improving the work of others after he's paid them to do it for him to begin with.

 

Now that's funny...

[FXR2evo99]

Twolane,

Thanks for the input, hopefully he isn't upset as that wasn't my motivation.  Any comments that are raised regarding the proper use of an instrument, or questioning whether someone has used a testing instrument correctly very well may create some frustration, my comments/questions were not meant to upset the original poster, if in fact they did.

The instructions may still benefit someone down the road.  

But let's face it .056" run out is 3 TIMES worse than .019" run-out which HD signifies being enough to cause catastrophic failure.........he definitely should feel "blessed" to have no damage to anything given the run-out results.

Regards,

Tim

[Twolanerider]

But let's face it .056" run out is 3 TIMES worse than .019" run-out which HD signifies being enough to cause catastrophic failure.........he definitely should feel "blessed" to have no damage to anything given the run-out results.

Regards,

Tim

No one could help but have the same thought Tim.  Over 1/20th of an inch is going to eat something.  In short order.  Harry was indeed a lucky rider to be so graced.

[FXR2evo99]

Sadunbar-

Thank you for pointing out what you stated above about the smaller indicator moving in a reverse direction, I mixed that up in my mind that's why I automatically thought in the photo above that the number was a 1 instead of the aprx 8.5 that it is as you pointed out, and while "offically" this is fine the dial indicator shaft doesn't need to be pushed down so far, wouldn't you agree, in other words just pushing the shaft of the dial indicator needle far enough to secure it with the set screw in the back would be better?

Anyway I appreciate your input above.

Regards,

Tim

[Unbalanced]

Tim,



No offense was taken, although I am not planning on turning this into a science project beyond its broke and needs some TLC now.  The intent was more to show that it is not just the 110's that have issues.

I was rushed earlier and had too leave and I wasn't satisfied with the answer I had typed so i deleted it.   The Fueling Unit was setup correctly.  The number is what it is and the dealer echo'd your very lucky and indeed I feel I was.   The dealership had other motors there from .020 to .036 that the cranks had also failed on most were 96".  On the .036 crank they to pry the pump off and it was in 15 pieces and marred greatly.  

To those humorous few that sent PM's asking whether I knew how to use my tool  

[sadunbar]

Sadunbar-

Thank you for pointing out what you stated above about the smaller indicator moving in a reverse direction, I mixed that up in my mind that's why I automatically thought in the photo above that the number was a 1 instead of the aprx 8.5 that it is as you pointed out, and while "offically" this is fine the dial indicator shaft doesn't need to be pushed down so far, wouldn't you agree, in other words just pushing the shaft of the dial indicator needle far enough to secure it with the set screw in the back would be better?

Anyway I appreciate your input above.

Regards,

Tim

Generally with this style of indicator, the center of the total travel of the indicator is the most supported position of the indicator shaft, and produces the most accurate readings....  In the instance of .056...that's a country mile.  I don't think it mattered where the indicator was positioned.  Really bad is Really bad regardless.....

[cvobiker]

Hey Harry,,


I think you have a bad crank   

[Unbalanced]

Hey Harry,,


I think you have a bad crank   

cvobiker,

No way i still have .044 to go. 

 

[cvobiker]

cvobiker,

No way i still have .044 to go. 

 

We'll call it Harry's Flex Crank..... Hey' you proved it works....

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Hey Harry,,


I think you have a bad crank   

Maybe the runout equates to ribbed for greater pleasure?

Sorry... I couldnt resist!

[Unbalanced]

Dunno bout Flex was thinking more like another word starting with F.