Custom Vehicle Discussions > CVO™ Softail® Convertible

Fear not removing the gas tank

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porkypig:
Here is a little helpful advice for those who may fear removing the gas tank so you have access to anything under there as well as just checking that no wiring is touching those hot heads, etc.  Or if you need to do any repairs or maintenance, etc. it makes it easy for access.  It takes some prep work but is certainly not some mystery that only those at the dealership can perform.  I removed the tank and then ran wiring for accessory lights, wiring for my Gerbing heater controls, wiring for my battery tender, and then fine tuned the wiring for the airhorn I installed not long after getting the bike in November.  Had it sort of mickey-moused so that it would perform but had to be careful the wind didn't blow wiring around close to the heads, etc.  
The main thing is the prep work for taking off the tank.  It is best if you run the gas out of the bike prior to removing the tank.  Tie the bike off in an upright position with it leaning at a good angle to the right .  This allows the residual gasoline in the tank (mine actually had just over a quart left after it started chugging on the highway) to equalize from the left half of the tank to the right side so that it can be removed with a turkey baster, etc.  Or if you have to, you can just get a quality siphon hose and a gas can and do it that way.  Either way, that gets the tank completely empty for the job at hand.  I noticed a change from my 05 Heritage is that the actual sending unit has been moved to the right hand side of the tank.  Once the gas has been removed from the tank, the rest is fairly simple and straight forward.  The main thing.........and I mean the main thing :beatdeadhorse:, is that you have the key fob with you.  Turn on the ignition and while the lights are on, then disconnect the negative wire from the battery.  That will be one less pair of pants you have to clean the $$$$ out of put in the washer!  Leave the ignition in the "on" position and then when you reverse the procedure, it will be in the correct position for hooking back up.
all this will give you great access to the sides of your bike.  You will notice there are a couple main wireways on each side for laying wire in so it keeps it from draping down over the hot heads, cylinders, or etc.  The wireway clips pull up and then out for access.  Feel free to use lots of wireties.  
At the end, you will have a bone-dry tank so will have to pour some gas before getting on and riding away.  
I will include a procedure that has been tried and proven to do this job simply and without getting gas all over the place.  I would recommend doing this job with a cool engine......and a cool head doesn't hurt either.

porkypig:
To Remove FLSTSE Gas Tank
1.  Make sure key fob is present.
2.  Strap bike down (tilted to far right side) and block under frame for safety.    
3.  Turn kill switch to “off”.
4.  Turn ignition switch to “on” (headlight on).
5.  With 3/8” wrench remove negative battery cable from frame and secure.
6.  Place rag around gas tank fill hole for spill control.
7.  Remove gas cap and with turkey baster transfer residual gasoline into suitable container.
8.  Replace gas cap.
9.  Un-tuck and unplug fuel gage wire under tank.  (Squeeze “hot” end of plug and separate).
10. Place rag under tank “quick disconnect” for spill control.  (Pull up on outer chrome ring and release hose down).
11.  Using 1/8” and 5/32” Allen wrenches, remove console screws.  (Put towel over handlebars to cushion console).
12.  Lift console up and disconnect yellow console clip fastener.
13.  Rotate console up and 180 degrees clockwise and rest on handlebars/headlight.
14.  Remove Stainless console clip from tank.
15.  Remove vent hose from tank.
16.  Place rag on engine head under tank crossover line for spill control.
17.  Disconnect left end of tank crossover hose from nipple.  To do this, it is necessary to pry apart the stock hose clamp. Then you can use a pair of very small needle-nose vise-grips (there is very limited area to work with under here but I feel it is easier here than on the right side) and gently squeeze the hose near the end to stop  the flow of any gas laying in the hose as you pull it off the nipple.  Immediately put a vacuum cap over the exposed nipple.  Plug the open end of crossover hose with another narrow, long rubber vaccuum cap so you leave a little bit of the end sticking out to grab hold of later (works slick), then remove the vise-grips (this is where you may need the rag) ;).        
18.  Using T-40 Torx wrench, remove bolt/washer holding tank to frame.
19.  Using 9/16” deep socket on right side and 9/16” wrench on left side, remove acorn nut/sleeve.
20.  Remove bolt/sleeve from left side of tank.  
21.   Carefully lift tank up and back to remove, pulling crossover hose through frame.  Place on cushioned surface.
22.   To reinstall, reverse procedure, being sure to have key fob present.
              

porkypig:
here is a couple pics of both sides with tank removed.

porkypig:
here is another.

porkypig:
and the last one.  Notice there is not much more room for anything at all under the seat.  I've about reached my limit.

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