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[Twolanerider]

Was reminded this evening that this had never been posted after it came up in discussion in another thread a couple of weeks ago.  If anyone is interested in retrofitting the power saddlebag locks from the 2007 bikes in to previous models it's not a terribly difficult thing to do.  Remainder of this thread will illustrate the install and detail the do-s and don't-s.

First thing to mention is the parts to do the job are surprisingly few in notated HD part numbers.  Also surprisingly inexpensive (relative to common HD standards on such things).  Ordered from Zanotti (far and away the cheapest) the entire parts list was approximately $275.00.  Only costs above that were a few bucks worth of wire.

That wire, however, is the only part that might push some people off this task.  At least right now Harley will sell all the mechanical parts, motors, etc.  They don't have a separate part number for the wire harness to tie it all together though.

Even though it is effectively a stand-alone harness I assume it must be supplied on the SEUCs wrapped within the main harness's insulator.  No part number for the saddlebag lock harness.  So you've got to build your own.  Fortunately it's a simple little harness.  Even more fortunately you can find a schematic for it. 

That schematic is the image attached to this post.  Notes are added to the schematic in four places.  One is a hand drawn diagram of the relays.  You'll use two of these.  They are identical parts.  They are wired differently.  But the relays themselves are identical.

Note the two legs marked as ground wires.  In the larger schematic page they end up in different locations.  Don't let that worry you.  Ground is ground.  You're making your own harness anyway.  So bring them out of the harness wrap close to a good ground point and bolt them down at the same place.  No big deal.  I grounded mine at the bolt on the right side of the frame close to the cruise control switch in the throttle cable.

Another leg is marked as the power wire.  You don't want this hot all the time.  You only want it hot when you've turned the switch on.  If you walk away from the bike with switch unlocked now anyone will be able to turn the switch on and push the button to unlock your saddlebags.  Just something to keep in mind.

I powered it from the back of the lighter.  That location is already fused in a place that doesn't require pulling the fairing.  There is no draw from the new locks during running operation of the bike.  So it's an easy and obvious place to power the system.

Last note is of a diode that must be installed between the legs that run back to the saddlebags.  The motors in the saddlebags operating these locks don't have separate ground, lock and unlock wires.  Just two legs run to them.  With the relays used as they are those two legs alternate between grounding and lock or unlock functions.  Because of that wiring scheme you need this diode installed between those legs.

[Twolanerider]

If you click on the schematic image it will blow up to a usable size.  The only other line drawing I'll supply is the parts breakdown for the saddlebag itself from an 07 manual (thanks again Gene!).

This parts breakdown is supplied for general orientation purposes.  The images to follow will likely prove to be more helpful.

The only parts needed that aren't illustrated in this breakdown are the pieces of the harness you'll build for the bike and a new lock tumbler for the saddlebag latch.  That tumbler is in the lid breakdown.  But it's the only piece different up there. 

The tumbler is a new 07 part number.  You can order it keyed to match prior year bikes though.  The part number for the locks is for a pair.  So just order a qty 1 of the part number.  Otherwise you'll have spare parts.

One note, ordering the keyed to match locks gets you a spare set of keys supplied along with them.  So that's a bit of a side benefit.

[Twolanerider]

This is the parts group used inside the saddlebag.  It is all supplied as one kit part number.  One part number for the left side and one for the right side. 

Note that in this photo is the blank switch cover that had already been removed from the fairing.  It obviously isn't part of the saddlebag parts.  Sorry 'bout that.

[Twolanerider]

Other parts needed will be two of this relay.  You could just crimp terminals on to your wires and plug them on to the back of each relay.  I went ahead and ordered the (cheap) little relay mounting block and used factory style crimps and the more secure mounting of the relays that the block allowed.  Didn't take any more time and allowed for a much neater and more secure harness.

[Twolanerider]

If you don't have one you'll need a tool to make this type of crimp.  Some of these are pretty pricey.  If you won't use it enough to justify the cost, however, go visit Radio Shack.  They have a tool for about 20 bucks that will make this crimp.  You might wreck a terminal (or three or four) getting them all done.  But the terminals are cheap.  So it's a cost effective trade off if you dont' already have the crimper.

[Twolanerider]

Mentioned previously was the diode that must be installed inline between the lock/unlock wires going to the saddlebag motors.  This diode is just a diode.  Nothing special at all. 

It must be installed in the legs going to the rear of the bike BEFORE they split off to each saddlebag.  Otherwise you'd only have it's protection for one saddlebag.

I built the harness within the bike so as to be able to just lay wires out and get accurate measurements for plug and terminal locations without actually having to measure anything.  There is, therefore, no image of a completed harness laying outside the bike.  Doing it within the bike, however, is the easiest way to get it done for a one-off.  Follow the schematic and make it fit.  You'll be fine.

The diode, seen here, need not get any special install method either.  Just cut the two wires going to the rear.  Connect the diode between them.  And continue them on to the rear.  It all gets hidden inside your heat shrink tubing, rubber wrap or whatever else you're using to make for an attractive OE-appearing harness anyway.

[Twolanerider]

The lock-unlock switch is another of the very few part numbers needed to do this.   The bracket seen here holding the new switch and the spotlight switch is the bracket already on the bike.  Nothing extra to buy.  Just push out the switch blank and put the new switch in its place.

[Twolanerider]

Each of the switch pods is held on the fairing cap with a couple of screws.  If you're unsure about removing your ignition switch to get the fairing cap on and off check your service manual (Clymer, HD or others).  It's not difficult for 05 and prior.  It can be tricky for 06 and newer with the new igntion switch.  So be careful.  Not hard, just tricky on 06 and up.

[Twolanerider]

When installed it's just another switch in the pod (now suddenly I'm hearing Pink Floyd  ).

[Twolanerider]

As mentioned previously building the harness in the bike does make it simpler.  For general guidelines, however, the following will work:

The three wires wrapped together that go to the switch can dive under the main harness, below and to the left of the radio to reach up and plug in to the switch pigtail.

The power legs can go over the radio strapped to the main harness to visit the back of the lighter socket.  Both of these runs can meet at a spot on the upper right between the fairing bracket and the speaker.  There's plenty of dead space up there to hold the relay pack.

Bring it all together in this area at the relay pack.  Separate wraps of the run to the switch, the run to power and the long run out of the relay pack to the saddlebags at the back of the bike. 

As that run comes down the frame bring the two ground wires out.  Put a single terminal on both of them.  Ground the harness on the right side of the frame at the grounding location already used there.  It's close to the cruise switch in the throttle cable.  Be sure and leave enough slack in this harness that the handlebars and fairing turn without tugging on the new harness.  If you just track it along the existing harness that runs along the frame you'll be fine.

The harness will continue back underneath the tank, split to the right and left side behind the battery and eventually meet the new plugs that will come out of each saddlebag.

[Twolanerider]

Before it was wrapped and tidied up.  You'll have 10 legs in the back of the relay pack.

[Twolanerider]

Once the harness is made and has reached the rear of the bike the rest of the install is within each saddlebag.  Illustrations here will be within the left bag.  Just a mirror image on the other side.

You don't have to pull the lid off.  I did because I couldn't hold camera, lid, other parts and scratch my butt all at the same time. 

This new bracket installs on the rear two of the four screws that go through the outboard side of the saddlebag.  The cloth part that keeps the lid from opening too far must come off.  So be sure and put a towel or something else between the lid latch and bag to protect things.

Note which holes in this bracket get the screws.  Also note the large hole in the lower center.  New parts will go through that hole.  That hole doesn't exist in the saddlebag to begin with.  Making it is part of the job.

[Twolanerider]

Easiest way to make this hole is to use a right angle drill with a small bit.  Working from the inside drill a small pilot hole in the center of the hole in the bracket.  Then working from the outside use that pilot hole to complete an 11/32" hole through the saddlebag. 

If you're willing to break off an 11/32" bit so that it's short enough to use on a right angle drill within the saddlebag the bracket could be used as a guide for that hole in one pass.  Short of having a very short 11/32" bit, however, make a small hole from the inside and finish it from the outside where you've got more room to work.

These holes can be drilled even if the saddlebag lid is attached.  Mount the cable bracket.  Remove the lock tumbler.  Drill the pilot hole through the center of the hole in the cable bracket.  Then drill the larger hole from the outside through the pilot hole you just created.

[Twolanerider]

This locking pawl, spacer and spring are supposed to come through that hole from the outside.  An arm that attaches to the cable attaches to this pawl on the inside and is held in place with the E clip seen here.

I say these parts are "supposed" to come through from the outside because the spring was a pain in the butt.  It didn't keep spacing correct as it was supposed to.  I ended up using only the black spacer on the outside.  Picture in a moment will show what was done on the inside to compensate.  Ended up being a much easier assembly and the lock system still works like butter.

[Twolanerider]

This is the arm on the inside that attaches to the cable from the motor.  There's a hex shank on the pawl's shaft and a mating hole in this arm.  That's what allows one to drive the other.

[Twolanerider]

The flat sided shank does not go all the way to the end of the locking pawl's shaft.  Just short of the E clip slot it starts to round out again.  That rounding is at least part of why the spring mentioned previously was a problem.  It would pull the part out such that the cable attaching arm wouldn't always engage.

The solution was to ditch the spring and use a spacer instead.  Used a 1/4" flat wisher with the hole drilled out to 11/32" and put it as shown here. 

As you see it here it the black spacer is already on the arm and on the outside of the saddlebag.  The spacer in this location on the inside kept the cable arm properly in place over the flat sides of the pawl so the mechanism could work.

[Twolanerider]

The original lock tumbers on the bikes without power locks won't work.  The tumblers are part of the locking system.  Here's the difference.  New 07 part number tumbler is on the right.  You can order them keyed to match prior year bikes.  If you do this please note that you'll have a 10 day to two week wait on your order for Harley to supply the parts keyed to match.

[Twolanerider]

Assembled it looks like this.  Note that if the latch were closed (upright) that pin would be pointing down.

This image shows the locking pawl in the unlocked position.

[Twolanerider]

This image shows the pawl in the locked position.  It simply captures the pin on the tumbler to keep you from being able to pull the latch assembly open.  Simple but effective.

Note that you can still use your keys if the system has been locked via the electrics.  Using your key will pull the cable manually.  Won't hurt a thing.  It's designed to do this.

One difference to note is that the key can now only be removed when the lock is in its center position.  You can manually lock or unlock but the key must be moved back to center from either deflection to remove.  Just a difference relative to the way the system has to work.

[Twolanerider]

Once it's all installed and you've checked operation and adjustment of anything with any movement to it the mechanism you've installed gets covered by this.  Two longer screws come with the parts package that go in the end two holes.

[Twolanerider]

Put the screws through the fabric lid stop and put the whole thing together.

[Twolanerider]

All buttoned up it will look something like this.  Note there are three harnesses inside this saddlebag.  One goes to the motor assembly driving the saddlebag locks.  The other in the rear is for the saddlebag spoiler.  The gray or silver harness forward in the saddlebag goes to the lighted saddlebag latches.  Don't let the other harnesses confuse things.  They aren't part of what you'll be doing here.

[Twolanerider]

There is enough harness length coming from the motor that this works as a convenient place to tie off the harness you're bringing to the back of the bike.

The saddlebag catch seen here is the forward catch.  Just in front of the shock.

Note that the harness coming off the motor is terminated.  Its wire terminals are already installed (the only ones you won't have to crimp yourself in the entire project).  But their outer housing is not yet pushed on.

I had a rubber grommet assortment here already.  So my easiest solution was to pick one that most closely matched the O.D. of the two wires and their wire wrap that needed to escape the saddlebag.  Then just drill a hole in the bag to match the capture side of the grommet. 

A little packet of grommets is cheap at any parts store.  Would recommend this rather than the larger plastic part supplied in the parts kit.

After the hole is drilled and grommet is installed stick the wires through.  Push on the connector.  And, voila, all hooked up.

One thing to note here.  Be sure you get the two wires oriented correctly relative to how you made this connector's mate.  If you get it backwards the bag would lock when you wanted it to unlock and vice versa.

[Twolanerider]

Once the terminals are pushed through the outer housings don't forget to plug the pin locks on the inside (the little orange bugger).  I mention it because someone who shall remain nameless forget it in one of the four locations you use them on the rear of the bike and bent a terminal.

[Twolanerider]

Note the position of the motor assembly in the outboard rear quarter of the saddelbag in this picture.  The motor housings come with two sided tape already attached.  If you peel it off to stick them down do each side in the outboard rear location.

An option part to this installation would be the new 07 fitted saddlebag liners.  They have a notch for the motor housing and cable.  That notch positions the parts as shown here.

At least as of yet I've not acquired those fitted liners.  Wanted to see whether the originals could be used or not.  If you happen to have the flannel type liners from Drag Specialties that have been around for many years you won't have any problem at all.  They are flexible enough to accommodate the new parts.

If you've got the Harley fitted liners you'll have to cut them to accommodate the new parts though.  Have to cut out for the motor housing and notch along the cable path.   I did that then created a patch with some plasti-foam material that came from Hobby Lobby.  Total extra expense was $10.00.  Still works fine.  Even looks ok.  $10.00 seemed a better option than the $110.00 that the 07 liners would have cost.

[Twolanerider]

Bag on, all parts in the new system completely installed.  All harness work complete and tidied up.  This bag has been locked electrically.  Houston, we are ready for launch countdown.

[Twolanerider]

Parts list if you're interested.  Probably a good idea to get extra of the terminals in case you screw up a crimp (or three or eight).  For whatever reason Zanotti's was much cheaper on this stuff than were other dealers I checked.

[HWYMAN1]

Was reminded this evening that this had never been posted after it came up in discussion in another thread a couple of weeks ago.  If anyone is interested in retrofitting the power saddlebag locks from the 2007 bikes in to previous models it's not a terribly difficult thing to do.  Remainder of this thread will illustrate the install and detail the do-s and don't-s.

First thing to mention is the parts to do the job are surprisingly few in notated HD part numbers.  Also surprisingly inexpensive (relative to common HD standards on such things).  Ordered from Zanotti (far and away the cheapest) the entire parts list was approximately $275.00.  Only costs above that were a few bucks worth of wire.

That wire, however, is the only part that might push some people off this task.  At least right now Harley will sell all the mechanical parts, motors, etc.  They don't have a separate part number for the wire harness to tie it all together though.

Even though it is effectively a stand-alone harness I assume it must be supplied on the SEUCs wrapped within the main harness's insulator.  No part number for the saddlebag lock harness.  So you've got to build your own.  Fortunately it's a simple little harness.  Even more fortunately you can find a schematic for it. 

That schematic is the image attached to this post.  Notes are added to the schematic in four places.  One is a hand drawn diagram of the relays.  You'll use two of these.  They are identical parts.  They are wired differently.  But the relays themselves are identical.

Note the two legs marked as ground wires.  In the larger schematic page they end up in different locations.  Don't let that worry you.  Ground is ground.  You're making your own harness anyway.  So bring them out of the harness wrap close to a good ground point and bolt them down at the same place.  No big deal.  I grounded mine at the bolt on the right side of the frame close to the cruise control switch in the throttle cable.

Another leg is marked as the power wire.  You don't want this hot all the time.  You only want it hot when you've turned the switch on.  If you walk away from the bike with switch unlocked now anyone will be able to turn the switch on and push the button to unlock your saddlebags.  Just something to keep in mind.

I powered it from the back of the lighter.  That location is already fused in a place that doesn't require pulling the fairing.  There is no draw from the new locks during running operation of the bike.  So it's an easy and obvious place to power the system.

Last note is of a diode that must be installed between the legs that run back to the saddlebags.  The motors in the saddlebags operating these locks don't have separate ground, lock and unlock wires.  Just two legs run to them.  With the relays used as they are those two legs alternate between grounding and lock or unlock functions.  Because of that wiring scheme you need this diode installed between those legs.

Don,
that is a great detail written account of "how to".you reallly should consider doing this for harley and all their parts!!! With your instructions even somone as ham fisted as me could make it work!!!!! john
PS do they work the way you thought?

[hdnut]

Nice post Twolane , another sweet job well done!!!

[Twolanerider]

Don,
that is a great detail written account of "how to".you reallly should consider doing this for harley and all their parts!!! With your instructions even somone as ham fisted as me could make it work!!!!! john
PS do they work the way you thought?

Thanks John.  A few of us had asked about this while it was a work in progress.  So it seemed a good idea to show enough detail to allow as many as possible the option of doing it themselves should they be so inclined.  There is a certain small satisfaction to having something there that Harley says you can't have yet  .  That it's also actually very functional is a nice bonus  .

Do the work as expected?  Well....., pretty much.  Before getting in to it too deeply I'd just assumed (based on nothing other than the assumption) that there'd be three wire runs to each lock.  One each for lock, unlock and ground.  The actually put my glasses on to look at the schematic and saw how they'd done it.  So that was a difference.  Not a big deal.  But a difference.

The only downside is that it'll become more important to remember to lock the ignition switch with the key when you walk away from the bike.  Otherwise (even if the bags are locked manually) someone could just walk up, turn on the switch, push the button and unlock the bags.

Granted, if we walked away and left the switch unlocked we probably left the saddlebags unlocked before too.  And I'm actually pretty good about locking the bike if it's unattended.  But it's something to keep in mind.

The obvious alternative would have been to use a remote control system rather than the stock relays.  Would not have been any more difficult to do and the parts aren't any larger physically.  So no problem there either.  Then only someone with the correct keyfob could lock and unlock.

Even have a kit here from Dakota Digital to do it with that was intended for another task.  Almost used it.  But then realized I actually wanted to use the OE switch in the system to show off the stealth install a little.  Otherwise no one would ever know it's there  .

[pj57]

Don - what will you come up with next?  As usual, great job with installation tutorial for us who just gotta' have it.  PJ

[Twolanerider]

Don - what will you come up with next?  As usual, great job with installation tutorial for us who just gotta' have it.  PJ

Thanks Pete.  The red bike is already an 05-06-07-aftermarket model with a little bit of pinstriping thrown in for good measure.  Have no idea what might get interesting next.  But whatever it is will wait until after this fall.  The bike is done being screwed with for this year (amen!).

Also to answer a question sent via PM:

Yes, if the saddlebag lid is left attached you can drill the hole you need to through the side of the saddlebag.  With the lid latched down in its normal closed and locked position you can drill straight through the hold created when you removed the lock tumber.  That is, in fact, how the right side was done.

I still used the right angle drill and made the pilot hole from the inside.  Was easier to eyeball for center through the little hole in the cable bracket.  Then drilled the big hole from the outside right through the hole in the latch where the tumbler had just been removed.  Will edit the post in this thread that covers this part of the task so that it also reflects this clarification.

[Chief]

Once again, an awesome write-up. Very well done.

I will add one item to note. If this is done on an Ultra Classic, where all four switch holes are already used in the fairing cap, HD has combined the Cruise and Spot switches into one momentary rocker switch, located in the position of the current spot switch. Just one extra part to do to get when doing this on an Ultra.

[jeffj]

Holy Moly Don awesome tutorial of install 

Pretty much decided it's way over my head but I think I will have it done

Thanks again for the in depth detail


jeffj

[CVOwner]

If you click on the schematic image it will blow up to a usable size.  The only other line drawing I'll supply is the parts breakdown for the saddlebag itself from an 07 manual (thanks again Gene!).

This parts breakdown is upplied just for general orientation purposes.  The images to follow will likely prove to be more helpful.

The only parts needed that aren't illustrated in this breakdown are the pieces of the harness you'll build for the bike and a new lock tumbler for the saddlebag latch.  That tumbler is in the lid breakdown.  But it's the only piece different up there. 

The tumbler is a new 07 part number.  You can order it keyed to match prior year bikes though.  The part number for the locks is for a pair.  So just order a qty 1 of the part number.  Otherwise you'll have spare parts.

One note, ordering the keyed to match locks gets you a spare set of keys supplied along with them.  So that's a bit of a side benefit.

Dude,

Do you split Atoms for a living or what? GEEZ! Now I know who writes those instruction manuals. Keep up the tutorials! I love em.

[Twolanerider]

Once again, an awesome write-up. Very well done.

I will add one item to note. If this is done on an Ultra Classic, where all four switch holes are already used in the fairing cap, HD has combined the Cruise and Spot switches into one momentary rocker switch, located in the position of the current spot switch. Just one extra part to do to get when doing this on an Ultra.

Thanks Chuck.  I'd intended to mention that combination switch for those that didn't have the spare mounting location.  But then just didn't think of it when the time came.  Brain fart..... 

Do you know yet when you get the new shocks?

[Twolanerider]

Holy Moly Don awesome tutorial of install 

Pretty much decided it's way over my head but I think I will have it done

Thanks again for the in depth detail


jeffj

Gotta wonder; how many more would do this if they could just buy the wiring harness?  Then it'd be a simple plug and play affair with a little bit of bolt on and a couple small holes to drill.  If someone could pull the tank (or at least raise it enough to get the wired underneath) they could do the deed.

[Fired00d]

There is only one word I can say..... WOW!!!!

Great review, install and pictorial. When I see you doing stuff like this I think it might just be a blessing we don't live closer together. More then likely if we did I'd be there watching/helping you do this and would end up wanting to have it done to my bike. Knowing that you're to far away and I would never attempt this on my own I'm content on walking my fat arse around the bike and locking the saddlebags.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Twolanerider]

There is only one word I can say..... WOW!!!!

Great review, install and pictorial. When I see you doing stuff like this I think it might just be a blessing we don't live closer together. More then likely if we did I'd be there watching/helping you do this and would end up wanting to have it done to my bike. Knowing that you're to far away and I would never attempt this on my own I'm content on walking my fat arse around the bike and locking the saddlebags.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Gary, I know this isn't a "big deal" type of mod or upgrade.  But I do grin a little when I've got my own fat arse just sitting there in the seat and can just reach forward and push the button.

Best so far was yesterday.  There was a "grand re-opening" going on at the local shop after a major remodel of the facility.  Didn't think I'd have time to go but ended up making it out for a few minutes late in the afternoon. 

Parked next to an Ultra, hit the kill switch and unlocked the bags.  Guy and his wife/girlfriend/whatever sitting on the Ultra both noticed the button being pushed and heard the little mechanism work in the saddlebags.  Guy asked "what was that?"  I told him "power saddlebag locks." 

The women leaned forward and said "yours don't have that!"  The guy just slumped forward in the seat a little and shook his head from side to side.  It was great.

[Fired00d]

.... 

Parked next to an Ultra, hit the kill switch and unlocked the bags.  Guy and his wife/girlfriend/whatever sitting on the Ultra both noticed the button being pushed and heard the little mechanism work in the saddlebags.  Guy asked "what was that?"  I told him "power saddlebag locks." 

The women leaned forward and said "yours don't have that!"  The guy just slumped forward in the seat a little and shook his head from side to side.  It was great.

You are a bad, bad man.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[CVOwner]

Gotta wonder; how many more would do this if they could just buy the wiring harness?  Then it'd be a simple plug and play affair with a little bit of bolt on and a couple small holes to drill.  If someone could pull the tank (or at least raise it enough to get the wired underneath) they could do the deed.

I think you should mass produce wiring harnesses to sell to us layman on the site. Or, give them away free is good too!

[jeffj]

I would be lying if I said the "Wow Factor" isn't a major reason I want it......lol

However, I Would also lock my bags more often as sometimes I leave the scoot and wonder if I locked the bags

So I pretty much have justified it now just gotta get it

Thanks again Don for being one of the Guinea pigs (so to speak) on trying new things for the scoots

jeffj

[skyglide]

Well done Don! Are you planning the tour pack auto lock next?

[Chief]

Thanks Chuck.  I'd intended to mention that combination switch for those that didn't have the spare mounting location.  But then just didn't think of it when the time came.  Brain fart..... 

Do you know yet when you get the new shocks?

Well, with such an awesome write-up, I guess we'll forgive this little omission.

As for the shocks, I would expect to hear something end of week, or into next. I checked out the web site to try to get a clue what the offering was. I hope the work well, 'cuz they ain't too sexy looking.

[Twolanerider]

Well done Don! Are you planning the tour pack auto lock next?

Sky, I'm not.  In fact I didn't even look at the hardware kit for the leather tour pak to see if it would retrofit in to a hard tour pak.  In my case my tour paks aren't on the bike unless I'm on a road trip.  And even then I'm in and out of the tour pak seemingly every stop independent of the saddlebags.  So for me it made more sense to keep the tour pak separate.

The wiring part would be easy.  It's just the same wire pair that goes to each saddlebag.  Doesn't matter how many times you split off that pair as long as the split is after the diode. 

Simply don't have a clue on the tour pak hardware though.  First reaction is that since the shape of the paks are so much different, and their latches are different, the hardware would not retrofit.  But since I never even looked at a breakdown for it that's just a guess. 

The saddlebags were obvsously retrofittable (hmm, new word?).  Same shape bags and a bunch of the other latch parts stayed the same.  Next time I'm out at the bike shop I'll borrow their manual for SEUC2s and look at the tour pak breakdown.  See if anything can be guessed from the picture.  Alternatively, next time I'm close to SEUC2 will eyeball the inside of the tour pak and see what the hardware package looks like.  I'd not be optimistic for a direct bolt in retrofit for the tour pak though.

[Twolanerider]

Well, with such an awesome write-up, I guess we'll forgive this little omission.

As for the shocks, I would expect to hear something end of week, or into next. I checked out the web site to try to get a clue what the offering was. I hope the work well, 'cuz they ain't too sexy looking.

That was a small beverage projection  . 

I'm assuming then it's been decided that the shocks in question are the ones with the little tank/tumor outboard of the main shock?  If so, yeap, pretty low on the sex appeal scale.  Maybe they'll work so well a rider will never even think about what it looks like though....

[Twolanerider]

Responding here to a pair of queries by PM regarding the harness.  Short answer is I don't know if it's worth the hassle to make several.  Someone needs to help me out with information here.

If the remainder of the job was just bolting parts in the saddlebag and removing/replacing the gas tank would some be more interested if they did not have to build their own wiring harness?  If so, how much is a wiring harness worth that eliminates the need to have someone else make it and probably push the entire job to a place charging an hourly labor rate?

[porthole]

Each of the switch pods is held on the fairing cap with a couple of screws.  If you're unsure about removing your ignition switch to get the fairing cap on and off check your service manual (Clymer, HD or others).  It's not difficult for 05 and prior.  It can be tricky for 06 and newer with the new igntion switch.  So be careful.  Not hard, just tricky on 06 and up.

Cover the tank. My tank was damaged at the dealer when the tech dropped the switch on the tank.

[porthole]

Don,

Seems like a lot of work and expense for little reward.




Damn you

[porthole]

Is the lock-unlock button hot all the time? Or only on run?

5 times yesterday I locked unlocked the bags what a pain.

There was a "Hot Rods" and Harleys" day in one of the towns nearby, should have entered the bike, even not clean it would have taken a trophy for what they were giving them for.

[Twolanerider]

Don,

Seems like a lot of work and expense for little reward.




Damn you

Duane, it was done for a few reasons on mine.

I liked the idea of finally filling that empty switch cap with something functional.

I didn't like all too regularly locking and unlocking the saddlebags seemingly everytime I stopped someplace

It seemed like it would be a nice convenience addition.

It was surprisingly inexpensive to do (all tolled about $275 if I remember correctly).

Harley said I couldn't do it.

No one else had it.

Harley said I couldn't do it.


Having used it for little while now the convenience factor is actually pretty nice.  Power is on only when the switch is on.  So no one can just walk up and push the button anytime.  The only downside to that is you have to more diligent (than I often was) about actually key locking the ignition switch. 

All in all it was a fun chore one weekend.  Ended up as a nice neat install and actually added a bit of convenient functionality to the bike.

A few have asked about the harness.  I ended up recently grabbing some relays at a local automotive electronics shop and ordering a bunch of terminals and connectors.  When they get here I'll have enough stuff to make up a dozen harnesses.  Will see if anyone here is still interested when I get them made and then combine them with an information packet for the job and sell the rest on eBay.

[Twolanerider]

Cover the tank. My tank was damaged at the dealer when the tech dropped the switch on the tank.

Duane, that's always a good idea of course.  In this case, however, the tank was already off.  Since wires need to be laid all the way back to the saddlebags from the fairing and they run under the tank it was easier/safer to just get it out of the way first.

[Twolanerider]

Ok, I made up four (so far) of these harnesses this morning.  Will get the rest of the dozen made up in the next couple days (what a mind numbingly boring task to do over and over again).

Four people here had said they wanted one.  Though I don't remember all four by name.  So chime in guys.  I'll list others on eBay for more $$$$ than they'll be sold here.

If you want a harness to put power saddlebag locks on your bike send $60.00 to rider@theamericanroad.us via Paypal.  That will include Priority Mail shipping.

[Bungy]

PayPal sent, Thanks Don!

Also sent a PM

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Steve.  Will get it mailed in the next couple of days.

The parts you'll need to get from Harley to complete the install are:

71764-07 switch
79156-07 Right saddlebag lock/motor/hardware kit
79163-07 Left saddlebag lock/motor/hardware kit
53986-07 locks

That part number for the saddlebag locks (tumblers) themselves is for a pair.  So just order one of that part number.  You'll need the keycode for your bike.  You'll then receive the new 07 tumbler keyed to your bike.

Zanotti's was much cheaper than anyone else for this collection of parts.  The only other part you'll need is optional.  The saddlebag liners are 88235-04 and 88236-07.  You can either run without liners, notch your old ones, or get these.  From Zanotti's they were about $55.00 a piece.

At least for now I notched out my old one.  Rebuilt around the motor box with some plastifoam material that came from Hobby Lobby.  Total cost for materials was less than $10.00.

[TNThumper]

paypal sent, thanks for all the work in figuring this out.

[Twolanerider]

paypal sent, thanks for all the work in figuring this out.

egcobra happens to have an Ultra.  For anyone doing this please note you will have one more part to add to those four part numbers listed above.

Ultras will already have all four switch locations filled.  The Screamin Eagle Ultras accommodated the new power lock switch by combining the separate cruise control and spot light switches in to one new switch.  Ultra riders will need that new switch also.

Sorry but I don't have the part number for that switch.  Ask your local parts counter for the combined cruise and spotlight switch for an 07 Screamin Eagle Electra Glide.

[Twolanerider]

Four of these harnesses will have mailed either today or tomorrow now.  I just went back through the installation part of the thread to edit for correct photos with descriptions, any errors in the first draft of the descriptions or other thigns that might not seem clear.  They should be ok for tutorial purposes now.  Should anyone have a question feel free to drop me a message.

[bgregston]

Incredible Don!! I wasn't even aware of this thread until tonight. I did the tourpak LED's and passenger headset jack relocation a couple of weeks ago because the writeups were so good I wasn't afraid to do it. This writeup even outclasses those. Thanks for all the effort. Once you teach us all how to do the paint protectors we'll have it all!!
Bret

[Twolanerider]

Incredible Don!! I wasn't even aware of this thread until tonight. I did the tourpak LED's and passenger headset jack relocation a couple of weeks ago because the writeups were so good I wasn't afraid to do it. This writeup even outclasses those. Thanks for all the effort. Once you teach us all how to do the paint protectors we'll have it all!!
Bret

Thanks Bret.  Now that I've had them on the bike for a few weeks and gotten used to the routine of using them they're actually very handy too.  I almost never kept the saddlebags locked before (good intentions to the contrary).  Now I almost always do.  And in the dark, especially on the left side, there's no longer any fumbling with keys trying to find the hole and the proper orientation to lock or unlock anymore.  It just a nice added little convenience.  Of course it's fun too on the rare occasion when someone notices the switch and says "you can't have that on that bike."   

[Fired00d]

Thanks Bret.  Now that I've had them on the bike for a few weeks and gotten used to the routine of using them they're actually very handy too.  I almost never kept the saddlebags locked before (good intentions to the contrary).  Now I almost always do.  And in the dark, especially on the left side, there's no longer any fumbling with keys trying to find the hole and the proper orientation to lock or unlock anymore.  It just a nice added little convenience.  Of course it's fun too on the rare occasion when someone notices the switch and says "you can't have that on that bike."   

They ain't seen nothing yet just wait until the '08's come out. On a side note when they notice that I'm sure you point out the radio to them.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Twolanerider]

They ain't seen nothing yet just wait until the '08's come out. On a side note when they notice that I'm sure you point out the radio to them.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Very few people do Gary.  The XM of course is completely hidden.  So unless it's heard there is no tell tale there.  And the radio just kind of blends in.  Once in awhile I get asked about it.  But not often.  If it gets cranked up in a parking lot I'll get more questions that lead back to the HawgWired amp and speakers just because the sound is so demonstrably better.  But the radio doesn't get much visual notice.  Quite frankly that's ok too.  What doesn't get seen doesn't get messed with.

[Fired00d]

Very few people do Gary.  The XM of course is completely hidden.  So unless it's heard there is no tell tale there.  And the radio just kind of blends in.  Once in awhile I get asked about it.  But not often.  If it gets cranked up in a parking lot I'll get more questions that lead back to the HawgWired amp and speakers just because the sound is so demonstrably better.  But the radio doesn't get much visual notice.  Quite frankly that's ok too.  What doesn't get seen doesn't get messed with.

Oh, I had forgot about that. We need Jerry (grc) to get his blue arrows out again.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Twolanerider]

Oh, I had forgot about that. We need Jerry (grc) to get his blue arrows out again.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

That was (personally) about the funniest thing I've seen here.  Really appreciated him going to all that trouble just to give me a little chit.  Best part it was all accurate too.  It missed a few thigns.  But what it pointed at was nuts on.  Enough piddling since them it might just be a field of blue now though.  I'm a sick bastard......

(but remember, it's done now, really)

((oh, wait, the chrome belt guard cover still needs to be installed, and the little crank sensor cover))

(((still may do rotors and wheels and pulley some day too)))

((((and there's that Street Glide rear light setting over in the corner too))))

(((((sick bastard indeed)))))

[Twolanerider]

Thought of something on these harnesses while on a little ride earlier that I should have thought of before.  The first four that have been mailed may give those of you that get them a small problem.  Here's what I expect:

The harness were completely assembled.  They probably should not have been.

The connectors that mate to the harness that escapes from the saddlebag is probably too large to fit between the strut and the fender.  It'll need to fit between the strut and fender or a frame tube and the fender to lay where it needs to lay properly.  I built the harness I used actually in and to the bike.  So it just didn't come up when I was working on my own.

This should be only a small problem though.  All those remaining to ship (if anyone wants one) will be sent with those connectors dissassembled.  It's a two pin deutsch connector.  The terminals will be on the wires.  But they won't be assembled in the socket.  The harness on the end of the motor assembly inside the saddlebag is supplied the same way.

When you get it assembly will be as follows:

Align the terminal in the rear of the connector and push until it stops.  Do the same with both the red and blue terminals.

[Twolanerider]

Once both terminals are full seated they are locked in place with this pin lock.  Notice the two little notches in it.  The lock install oriented such that those notches are against the metal terminals.

[Twolanerider]

When fully assembled it will look like this:

[Twolanerider]

If anyone receives a fully assembled harness and isn't able to thread it through as necessary to reach behind a saddlebag it still should not be a big issue.  I'm just not sure if you'll be able to or not.  Might try laying it in the bike from the rear end and working forward so you'll have all the play necessary to route it any way that might work.

If it proves to be a problem disassembly of the connectors isn't difficult.  Remove that orange pin lock shown above by just pulling it straight out.  On the other end of the socket the orange grommet will pull out easily also (the grommet that seals against the wires).  Once both ends are out you'll need to use an awl or other small tool to depress a plastic tab in the connector that holds the terminal in place.  Once that's done it just pulls out the back.

If anyone buggers up a terminal while messing with this let me know.  Will mail out a replacement as needed.  They're made to come assemble and disassemble though.  So it shouldn't be a big problem.  Good luck.

[Twolanerider]

One other note for clarification.  Just read a PM that was both aggrevated and aggrevating at the same time.  A complaint that it was "apparent" I was "deceitfully" making a "lot of profit" on these harnesses.

Well..... d'uh!

It was never said, insinuated nor suggested that parts were purchased and time was spent assembling these for free.  A "lot" of profit is, however, a relative term.

Just so everyone knows there was a very specific price point figured here.  If all 12 that I bought parts for get purchased that will cover the cost of the parts purchased to actually make the harnesses and the parts purchased to put the saddlebag locks in my bike to begin with. 

So for me getting a free (dollar value, not time) install a dozen other people can have the opportunity to install them in their bike when they could not have otherwise and will benefit from any experience I might have gained guinea pigging it for everyone. 

To the unnamed gentleman so upset that these weren't being given away; kiss my ass.

[HogBreath]

Stingy Bastard. Can I have the free harness?

[Chief]

One other note for clarification.  Just read a PM that was both aggrevated and aggrevating at the same time.  A complaint that it was "apparent" I was "deceitfully" making a "lot of profit" on these harnesses.

Well..... d'uh!

It was never said, insinuated nor suggested that parts were purchased and time was spent assembling these for free.  A "lot" of profit is, however, a relative term.

Just so everyone knows there was a very specific price point figured here.  If all 12 that I bought parts for get purchased that will cover the cost of the parts purchased to actually make the harnesses and the parts purchased to put the saddlebag locks in my bike to begin with. 

So for me getting a free (dollar value, not time) install a dozen other people can have the opportunity to install them in their bike when they could not have otherwise and will benefit from any experience I might have gained guinea pigging it for everyone. 

To the unnamed gentleman so upset that these weren't being given away; kiss my ass.

There's always one.

[Twolanerider]

Stingy Bastard. Can I have the free harness?

You wouldn't kiss it no matter how drunk I got you  .

[HogBreath]

You wouldn't kiss it no matter how drunk I got you  .

If I ever got drunk enough to actually do that, I'd still lie and say I didn't.

[Twolanerider]

If I ever got drunk enough to actually do that, I'd still lie and say I didn't.

I'd lie and say you didn't too  !

[HogBreath]

I'd lie and say you didn't too  !

So, They'll never know the REAL truth?

[Twolanerider]

So, They'll never know the REAL truth?

What happens in Kentucy stays in Kentucky  .

[Chief]

What happens in Kentucy stays in Kentucky  .

I guess its a good thing sheep can't speak.

[HogBreath]

I guess its a good thing sheep can't speak.

That was Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad.

[Twolanerider]

That was Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad.

(he typed faster than me)

[Chief]

Always heard about stump broke cows, but don't know if its true or not-so-urban legend.

[TNThumper]

egcobra happens to have an Ultra.  For anyone doing this please note you will have one more part to add to those four part numbers listed above.

Ultras will already have all four switch locations filled.  The Screamin Eagle Ultras accommodated the new power lock switch by combining the separate cruise control and spot light switches in to one new switch.  Ultra riders will need that new switch also.

Sorry but I don't have the part number for that switch.  Ask your local parts counter for the combined cruise and spotlight switch for an 07 Screamin Eagle Electra Glide.

Hey Don,

I recieved the harness today...very nice workmanship. I have my HD parts guy looking up the spot/cruise combo rocker switch. I will advise the p/n when I get it. The lock unlock rocker is on backorder. 

My bodyshop manager painted my inner faring yesterday (Monday). Looking forward to putting this beast back together. I am converting all the gages to the spun alum version. Will post some pictures. I was pleasantly surpriesd how little work there was to getting the inner faring off the bike. I had visions of removing the radio etc. As it turns out, the radio and associated wiring was not disturbed.

Thanks again for a professional looking job.

Ned

[Twolanerider]

Hey Don,

I recieved the harness today...very nice workmanship. I have my HD parts guy looking up the spot/cruise combo rocker switch. I will advise the p/n when I get it. The lock unlock rocker is on backorder. 

My bodyshop manager painted my inner faring yesterday (Monday). Looking forward to putting this beast back together. I am converting all the gages to the spun alum version. Will post some pictures. I was pleasantly surpriesd how little work there was to getting the inner faring off the bike. I had visions of removing the radio etc. As it turns out, the radio and associated wiring was not disturbed.

Thanks again for a professional looking job.

Ned

Pleased it got there so promptly Ned.  Sounds like the Ultra is getting quite a suite of changes.  Enjoy it all, sounds like it's going to be very nice.

[ccr]

......So for me getting a free (dollar value, not time) install a dozen other people can have the opportunity to install them in their bike when they could not have otherwise and will benefit from any experience I might have gained guinea pigging it for everyone.  ...

Sounds like how we used to get our mind meld of choice in the waaaaaay distant past.  Buy enough that once split down into smaller packages, the personal use was free.

Never had anyone complain about that.  The originator is out pocket money, time and distribution hassles, the next in line just gets the one of with no great outlay of time, money or hassles.  Win Win situation.

Sorry there were sour grapes.

 

[Twolanerider]

Sounds like how we used to get our mind meld of choice in the waaaaaay distant past.  Buy enough that once split down into smaller packages, the personal use was free.

Why MrsWe?  What is that girl talking about  ?