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[efrbc1]

Went to the dealer today to get a primary gasket.  He told me of the "new" procedure to tighten the comp nut.  Use red loctite.  Torque to 50 ft/lb, loosen and re-torque to 75 ft/lb.  Mark the nut and tighten 90 degrees (another 1/4 turn).

Anyone else familiar with this "new" technique?  My '03 manual says to torque to 150-165 ft/lb.

Chris

[Smiler]

what size engine you running, 103/95 if 88 soundds like you may need to change something.

[efrbc1]

103" Screamin Eagle Electra Glide (2005).

[SPIDERMAN]

Went to the dealer today to get a primary gasket.  He told me of the "new" procedure to tighten the comp nut.  Use red loctite.  Torque to 50 ft/lb, loosen and re-torque to 75 ft/lb.  Mark the nut and tighten 90 degrees (another 1/4 turn).

Anyone else familiar with this "new" technique?  My '03 manual says to torque to 150-165 ft/lb.

Chris

1/2 " pnuematic impact wrench. Wind it down till she binds.  Been doin it that way for more years than I can count.  Never had a problem

B B

[Fired00d]

Went to the dealer today to get a primary gasket.  He told me of the "new" procedure to tighten the comp nut.  Use red loctite.  Torque to 50 ft/lb, loosen and re-torque to 75 ft/lb.  Mark the nut and tighten 90 degrees (another 1/4 turn).

Anyone else familiar with this "new" technique?  My '03 manual says to torque to 150-165 ft/lb.

Chris

Hear is the Tech Bulletin that might apply to your bike if it was built before May 2005.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Boatman]

Went to the dealer today to get a primary gasket.  He told me of the "new" procedure to tighten the comp nut.  Use red loctite.  Torque to 50 ft/lb, loosen and re-torque to 75 ft/lb.  Mark the nut and tighten 90 degrees (another 1/4 turn).

Anyone else familiar with this "new" technique?  My '03 manual says to torque to 150-165 ft/lb.

Chris

I tightened mine by the procedure that d00d was nice enough to post.  So far so good.
With an impact. I'm not smart enough to quit until something is broke or ruined.   

[hogasm]

I would recommend replacing the compensator nut each time it is removed.

After MV last fall I had to replace the primary chain due to stretching. While tightening the comp nut it broke at 125 ft lbs. Had to split the cases to make repairs. Very costly.

Guess the old saying comes to mind...you can pay me now or pay me later

[Hoist!]

I picked up the new SE Compensator for Cybil. This is the procedure that came with the new Compensator.

Install the new screw by hand, and snug against the sprocket retainer. Using a 1-3/4" box end wrench to hold the crankshaft, tighten the screw to 100 ft-lbs. Loosen the screw by one full turn (360 degrees), then tighten to 140 ft-lbs.

This is very similar to efrbc1's post below!

Hoist!

[Boatman]

I would recommend replacing the compensator nut each time it is removed.

I listened Brian and put on a new nut when the ringgear was replaced.  Was even cheap by MOCO standards.  Forgot I replaced it until you brought it up again now even though you had told me earlier several months ago to do so.   

[SPIDERMAN]

I picked up the new SE Compensator for Cybil. This is the procedure that came with the new Compensator.

Install the new screw by hand, and snug against the sprocket retainer. Using a 1-3/4" box end wrench to hold the crankshaft, tighten the screw to 100 ft-lbs. Loosen the screw by one full turn (360 degrees), then tighten to 140 ft-lbs.

This is very similar to efrbc1's post below!

Hoist!

$20 solution to a nickle problem in my book

B B

[hd-dude]

1/2 " pnuematic impact wrench. Wind it down till she binds.  Been doin it that way for more years than I can count.  Never had a problem

B B

I would not recommend using an impact gun to tighten the comp nut or clutch basket. It is pretty much required to break the loose but the impact can break the magnets off of the rotor.

[Classic Beast]

I have also seen the impact gun knock the flywheels out of true. I would never use it. Had to re-true a set because of it.

[efrbc1]

Got it all done in about 2 1/2 hours.  Per the TSB, torque to 75 ft/lb and then tighten 45 degrees (1/8 of a turn) more.  Holy chit - it took two of us to tighten it!  It is sure a lot tighter now than it was when I took it off.

Very straightforward installation.  My "old" pinion gear wasn't broken but it is sure worn with a bit of a twist.  From the looks of the Rivera gears, I shouldn't have any more issues.  Per their suggestion, I will also be upgrading the battery cables.

Chris

[JCZ]

Got it all done in about 2 1/2 hours.  Per the TSB, torque to 75 ft/lb and then tighten 45 degrees (1/8 of a turn) more.  Holy chit - it took two of us to tighten it!  It is sure a lot tighter now than it was when I took it off.

Very straightforward installation.  My "old" pinion gear wasn't broken but it is sure worn with a bit of a twist.  From the looks of the Rivera gears, I shouldn't have any more issues.  Per their suggestion, I will also be upgrading the battery cables.

Chris

Are they saying (or suggesting) that the stock battery cables are defective or just insufficient to carry the full amp load?

[Boatman]

Are they saying (or suggesting) that the stock battery cables are defective or just insufficient to carry the full amp load?

I think they are saying that the MOCO cables are very cheaply made and the ends are just crimped on.  I bought and installed cables from www.harleyhog.co.uk/yooperbattery/cables.htm   .  They are at least soldered on.

The fellow is from Wisconsin.