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Author Topic: Aftermarket ignition systems  (Read 35566 times)

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RedFXR2

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Aftermarket ignition systems
« on: November 18, 2008, 09:28:52 AM »

Accel, Compu-Fire, Compu-Fire Elite, Crane Hi-4, Dyna, or Daytona Twin Tec?  All-inclusive kits (if I need all the pieces) or various seperate components?

I've seen them mentioned repeatedly in other threads but I don't think a thread has ever been devoted to them. I know some of you guys have aftermarket systems on your FXR's and I'm mulling over a change now so maybe you can steer me to a decision.

I already have a SE ignition module, SE coil and SE wires.  I'm looking at single-fire options.  Some of them have the whole show--sensor plate, ignition module, coil and wires.  Some seem to only have a sensor plate with various settings.  Some offer the components seperately.

If I get a Accel, Compu-Fire, Compu-Fire Elite,  or Crane Hi-4 sensor plate, do I simply keep my SE igntion module and coil?    Looking at a catalog, they seem to imply that these sensor plates are stand-alone systems.  Or must I also replace all the existing components with a matched setup?

The Compu-Fire Elite 1 says "no module to mount".  So would I just remove the SE ignition  module and let the wires dangle?  The other Compu-Fire model states that it corrects for Tachometer output.  I guess the Tach is looking for a dual-fire system and must be corrected for single-fire input.  The others (Crane, Accel, compu-Fire's own Elite, Daytona, Dyna) don't mention this.  Do they all do it automatically?

The Crane Fireball Hi-4E apparently requires it's own igniton module, but the other Crane Hi-4 system is a sensor plate, coil and wires.  With the latter, use my existing ignition module or none?

So what's the recommendation for the best way to go.  I've read that the realistic expectation here is for smoother operation and easier starts.  Maybe a bit more power due to the finer adjustability, but that's not really the point--that's what I've read anyway.  I certainly want reliability.  Can I keep any of my present parts or must I replace all--the sensor plate, ignition module and coil?
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fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2008, 01:24:11 PM »

I tried to put my answers within your quote, but it says that I exceeded the max of 6000 characters   :confused5:

so I'm making two or three post to put it in here ...... I don't understand what's wrong........

Accel, Compu-Fire, Compu-Fire Elite, Crane Hi-4, Dyna, or Daytona Twin Tec?  All-inclusive kits (if I need all the pieces) or various seperate components?

I've seen them mentioned repeatedly in other threads but I don't think a thread has ever been devoted to them. I know some of you guys have aftermarket systems on your FXR's and I'm mulling over a change now so maybe you can steer me to a decision.

I already have a SE ignition module, SE coil and SE wires.  I'm looking at single-fire options.  Some of them have the whole show--sensor plate, ignition module, coil and wires.  Some seem to only have a sensor plate with various settings.  Some offer the components seperately.

If I get a Accel, Compu-Fire, Compu-Fire Elite,  or Crane Hi-4 sensor plate, do I simply keep my SE igntion module and coil?    Looking at a catalog, they seem to imply that these sensor plates are stand-alone systems.  Or must I also replace all the existing components with a matched setup?

I have the Compu-Fire system in my bike.
Here is the one that I have:

PN 20600 Ignition Module Kit for stock to mild performance
          1970-Later Big Twins and Sportsters (except Twin Cam)

 Use with P/N 51105 Tach Adapter for single fire coil tach signal.

http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2008, 01:24:47 PM »

I bought the single fire coil as a SEPARATE item off ebay for like 35 bucks.
You can get DUAL COILS for the single fire operation OR, you can get a 'single coil' that performs the job.
I chose to get a 'single coil' that performs the 'single fire' operation
The reason I did this is because it mounts right where the stock coil goes (more on this later), and I didn't have to try to find a hiding place for 'dual coils'


The Compu-Fire Elite 1 says "no module to mount". 

That's correct, you only have the sensor plate that goes in the nose cone, and all the electronics are on that plate

So would I just remove the SE ignition  module and let the wires dangle? 

I did not remove my stock ignition module
I 'cut' the wires, tucked up the ends and zip tied them up, and spliced the new ignition system into the harness
This way the bike could always be returned to stock configuration if desired


The other Compu-Fire model states that it corrects for Tachometer output.

If you get the compu-fire system, and you go with a single, single fire coil, you also have to buy the tach moudule, which I did (pn listed above)
If you go with 'dual coils' I am pretty sure you do not need the tach module. Using dual coils the wiring to the Tach is different than if you use a single, single fire coil.
With the dual coils, you wire the common post of both coils together and then to the tach.


 I guess the Tach is looking for a dual-fire system and must be corrected for single-fire input. 

That's correct. The stock system, being dual fire, sends twice as many pulses to the tach than what the engine is turning. If you don't adjust for that when you switch over to single fire your Tach will only be reading half of what tThe engine is turning.  There is a very small module, not much larger than 1/2 the size of your thumb, that connects to the center post of the single fire coil, and then on to the tach. This module compensates for the number of pulses coming from the center post of the single fire coil and sends the correct number of pulses to the tach


The others (Crane, Accel, compu-Fire's own Elite, Daytona, Dyna) don't mention this.  Do they all do it automatically?

  I do not know  I suppose they could, but I don't know how they would do this ... automatically .... the tach has to be wired into the coil(s) :confused5:

The Crane Fireball Hi-4E apparently requires it's own igniton module, but the other Crane Hi-4 system is a sensor plate, coil and wires.  With the latter, use my existing ignition module or none?

  I do not know  :confused5:
« Last Edit: November 18, 2008, 01:26:55 PM by fxr4mikey »
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2008, 01:25:17 PM »

So what's the recommendation for the best way to go. 

I went with the Compu-Fire Selectable Advance Ignition Module
Why ?
1) about half the cost of some of the other brand names
2) I felt secure in the performance and realiablity of the compu-fire due to friends that I know who run them
3) ease of installation
4) flexibility - will run either dual or single fire, switchable
5) wide selectable rev limit range
6) wide selectable advance cure settings
7) easy to time
8) easy to tune to your bike
9) I went with one, single fire coil because it mounts where the stock coil goes - WATCH THIS .... the coil that I got is a little bit deeper in profile and the stock chrome cover will not fit over it. I haven't modified the cover, or shopped for an after market one.  If you chk pics of my bike you might notice the black coil hanging out there
10) I have over 10K miles on this ignition system and not one, NOT ONE hickcup, I anticipate that it will remain this way.
11) The bike starts easier than it did with the stock ign sys


I've read that the realistic expectation here is for smoother operation and easier starts. 

I noticed that the bike ran smother, and pulled harder and longer into the RPM range. It was noticeable !  This was one change that was done alone, no other changes where made at the time I installed it.

Why does it pull more

1) I increased the rev limit to 6K  (at 6K rpm the ign module will cut pulses to the coil, limiting the rpm range to whatever you have it set to - when you hit the limit, the bike sounds like it is
'miss firing'  which it is   LOL ..... that's how they limit the rpm range

2) improved timing advance over stock - stock advance curve is limited to something like 28-30 degrees. The stock system also begins to retard the advance when the bike gets into the 4.4K rpm range. If you look at a dyno sheet running the dual fire stock ign system you'll see the torque begin to drop at this time
With the compu-fire (and I assume others as well) the system NEVER RETARDS the advance all the way through the RPM range (that is once the max advance is reached).  The max timing advance curve for the compu-fire is 35 degrees.  This is 5-7 more degrees than stock, and the advace remains all the way to 6K rpms.  This you can feel in the seat of your pants because the bike continues TO BUILD POWER ALL THE WAY TO THE END OF THE RPM RANGE.  Well of course the cam has an impact also as to when the bike quits making power, but at least your ignition system is not retarding the advance curve as it gets into the higher RPM range.  You know the higher the RPM, the more advance you need, and you need that advance to remain there, if you retard the advance at higher RPMs, you loose power ..... it's an emissions thing with the stock builds

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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2008, 01:26:02 PM »

Maybe a bit more power due to the finer adjustability, but that's not really the point--that's what I've read anyway.  I certainly want reliability.

As I stated, I have over 10K miles on my compu-fire system with NO HICKUPS !
I have as much confidence in this system as I did in the stock system


Can I keep any of my present parts or must I replace all--the sensor plate, ignition module and coil?

Depends - if you want to continue to run DUAL FIRE, and you get the compu-fire ignition module, you can keep your stock (or SE) coil
If you want to run SINGLE FIRE, you will have to replace your coil - you have two choices then, 1) ONE single fire coil, or 2) DUAL single fire coils  (I prefer, and chose, to run ONE single fire coil)
The sensor plate is going to be replaced with this system, which also replaces the ignition module.  This system performs the functions that are contained in your ignition module. It's just that all of the electronics are mounted on the sensor plate instead of under the side cover

[/quote]


I hope that I've been of 'some help'
It'd be nice to help someone else, since everyone here helps me SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH  !!!!!!!!!!!!
:D
« Last Edit: November 18, 2008, 01:27:57 PM by fxr4mikey »
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

RedFXR2

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2008, 02:49:22 PM »

Thanks for the info, Mikey.  I dropped in on my local shop at lunch today and got educated a bit more by the Tech.

Apparently, most manufacturers have the choice between keeping the stock HD sensor plate and using it along with their aftermarket ignition module, or eliminating the HD ignition module and replacing the HD sensor plate with theirs, which incorporates a mini-size ignition module.  Either way, if you go to single-fire, you must then replace the HD coil with a single-fire version.  I'm starting to get it, now.

Right now I'm leaning towards keeping the stock sensor plate and going with a "plug and play" ignition module and coil.  I'm not sure why, but I don't like the idea of my existing ignition module 8-pin plug dangling free and empty behind the side cover.

Daytona Twin Tec and Crane Hi-4 systems both claim to offer single-fire coils that fit behind the stock coil covers--I like that, too.  And Daytona is having a sort of factory sale at the moment as well.  Cheaper to get all the pieces (module, coil, wires, tach module, and bits and pieces) from them than equivalent Crane kits on ebay.

I'll wait to buy until (hopefully) others weigh in but it's starting to make sense, now.  Thanks again.
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fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2008, 03:53:17 PM »

Thanks for the info, Mikey. 
You're Welcome

I dropped in on my local shop at lunch today and got educated a bit more by the Tech.
Education is always a good thing !

Apparently, most manufacturers have the choice between keeping the stock HD sensor plate and using it along with their aftermarket ignition module, or eliminating the HD ignition module and replacing the HD sensor plate with theirs, which incorporates a mini-size ignition module.  Either way, if you go to single-fire, you must then replace the HD coil with a single-fire version.
That's right
 I'm starting to get it, now.

Right now I'm leaning towards keeping the stock sensor plate and going with a "plug and play" ignition module and coil.  I'm not sure why, but I don't like the idea of my existing ignition module 8-pin plug dangling free and empty behind the side cover.

This might even help you with your choice.  If you go with one that replaces the stock module with theirs, on the sensor plate, you have two choices about using the 8-pin plug
1) if you want to use the plug, you'll have to put pins on the cables from the new ignition module, you'll need the tools to do this, and you'll need pin pusher to get the old ones out
2) you can cut the old plug off and splice the cables from the new system into the harness.


I chose to go with option number two. IF YOU USE THIS OPTION
1) leave enough cable on the end of the plug so you could splice it back in if you EVER WANTED TO
2) leave enough cable on the OTHER SIDE of the plug so you have enough room to splice the new wires into the harness


Daytona Twin Tec and Crane Hi-4 systems both claim to offer single-fire coils that fit behind the stock coil covers--I like that, too. 

yep, I am a cheep bastage and wasn't willing to pay the price .... but I might end up doing it anyways, cause I don't have a cover over my coil, and I want one ..... HOWEVER, in my own defense;  when I bought it, it said, replaces stock .... they didn't say that the deep profile wouldn't fit under the cover ...... so you know how that stuff goes

And Daytona is having a sort of factory sale at the moment as well.  Cheaper to get all the pieces (module, coil, wires, tach module, and bits and pieces) from them than equivalent Crane kits on ebay.

Just a question, even on sale, isn't the Daytona stuff much more expensive than the Compu-Fire  ?

I'll wait to buy until (hopefully) others weigh in but it's starting to make sense, now.  Thanks again.

Yeah, I'm anxious to see what some of the other guys have to say on this subject  :drink:

You're VERY WELCOME, I'm glad that it was useful !!!
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

RedFXR2

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #7 on: November 18, 2008, 04:11:27 PM »

If you go with one that replaces the stock module with theirs, on the sensor plate, you have two choices about using the 8-pin plug
1) if you want to use the plug, you'll have to put pins on the cables from the new ignition module, you'll need the tools to do this, and you'll need pin pusher to get the old ones out
2) you can cut the old plug off and splice the cables from the new system into the harness.

I chose to go with option number two.

IF YOU USE THIS OPTION
1) leave enough cable on the end of the plug so you could splice it back in if you EVER WANTED TO
2) leave enough cable on the OTHER SIDE of the plug so you have enough room to splice the new wires into the harness


Yep.  I've already replaced the stock cam sensor a while back and had to dismantle and re-assemble the pins/plug.  This is another reason why I like the idea of the frame-mounted module instead of the nosecone/sensor plate mount.


... cause I don't have a cover over my coil, and I want one ..... HOWEVER, in my own defense;  when I bought it, it said, replaces stock .... they didn't say that the deep profile wouldn't fit under the cover ...... so you know how that stuff goes

Oh yes.  Well, they say it will fit.  From the pictures it looks like it will.  In reality, there's always the chance.... ::)

Just a question, even on sale, isn't the Daytona stuff much more expensive than the Compu-Fire  ?

The whole shooting match from Daytona (Evo stuff is on sale, our bikes are old and out of date, you know) is $402.  That's the module, coil, plug wires, hardware.  Your part from Compu-Fire is $260 but then I'd have to get a single-fire coil and maybe wires as well.  The Crane Fireball Hi-4E, having the same list of stuff as the kit from Daytona, is $500 from J&P.  Same stuff from Dyna, the 2000i model, is $400, also from J&P.

Back to my lunchtime visit to my local Tech--he pointed out that I might not see $400 worth of expectations fulfilled, depending on what those expectations were.  But from reading your experience, the easier starting and smoother running are my expectations. And maybe a touch more throttle response.  I'm not expecting to do this and go out and challenge a bunch of Hayabusas. ;D
« Last Edit: November 18, 2008, 04:16:03 PM by RedFXR2 »
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fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2008, 06:08:56 PM »



Back to my lunchtime visit to my local Tech--he pointed out that I might not see $400 worth of expectations fulfilled, depending on what those expectations were.  But from reading your experience, the easier starting and smoother running are my expectations. And maybe a touch more throttle response.  I'm not expecting to do this and go out and challenge a bunch of Hayabusas. ;D

You should experience those 3 things

easier starting and smoother running are my expectations. And maybe a touch more throttle response

that's what I got on mine, and one more thing ...... I'll be supprised, when you get it done, if you tell me that you don't fell more power than before

not that you're gonna go out and challenge a bunch of Hayabusas. ;D
but you will feel more power

Good luck,
Keep us posted on this
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

RedFXR2

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2008, 06:14:08 PM »

not that you're gonna go out and challenge a bunch of Hayabusas. ;D

Heck, I bet I could put these ignition parts on, take her out to I-95, blip the throttle and the Hayabusas would scatter like roaches when you turn on the kitchen lights. ;D

What, you don't think so? :o

I'll keep you posted.  Thanks again for the input--anybody else with any aftermarket ignition system info?
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FXR2evo99

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #10 on: November 18, 2008, 07:02:37 PM »

fxr4mikey~~~~

YEEEEESSSSSS, Virginia, there is INDEED A SANTEEE CLAUUUSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:santa2:

FINALLY someone who TYPES as much as meeeeeee~~~~    :2vrolijk_21: 

 :jalapeno:

Laughing.....

Regards,

Tim
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FXR2evo99

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #11 on: November 18, 2008, 07:30:52 PM »

Ok guys....

I must admit I am lost, the only thing I know for sure is both of you have done or at least will be doing screamin eagle heads....Mike you haven't changed Pistons on your FXR2 so why did you change your iginition coil and what specific results did you arrive at by doing so, I mean you have already changed your coil once right?

SO why did you do this Mikey???  the single fire coil?

Mike why are you desiring to do it, are you having problems or are you just bored and looking for a "project"?

I need some education on this please, when you guys talk about "more reliable"?   What are you both experiencing currently that you feel you need "more reliablity"???

So in "layman's terms" what are you actually experiencing with the OEM Stock Iginition set up and what did you hope to "accomplish" by moving to something different or away from OEM stock?

It "appears" you may be spending $400.00 +or- and what will you get for this "money" as it relates to the "diveablity" of your FXR's?

I did several years ago, put a Crane H4 Fireball <~~~or something like that, on to my 2003 Dyna Low Rider, and what it did was allow me to adjust or "retard" the timing for the bike, as well as control the MAX RPMS raising such up to 6500 or something like that although I never raised the limitations that high basically kept it at 5700 for MAX RPM. 

The reason I put this "ignition module" on at the time is that I had put a mild 95" engine modification with 10:1 KB Pistons, S&S 570 cams, ported and polished heads and was running a Cometic .030 gasket resulting in the bike running at 10.5:1 compression and it was "pinging" and hard starting.....so I added the "ignition" module mentioned above to help with this problem.....cost was over $300.00 and I STILL had pinging going on.....eventually I grew tired of all of it and pulled the pistons and installed a set of Wiseco 9:1 compression Flat Top Pistons, along with using a Cometic .040 thousandths gasket while continuing to run the S&S 570 Cam.  I ended up creating a compression ratio of approximately 9.25:1 and could technically range from 9.0:1 to 9.5:1 compression based upon what was done to my heads as well.   Through this process discovered that the S&S 570 cam should not be put in anything running over 10:1 compression. 

At the time, I had much debate about what I should do ranging from merely changing the head gasket from .030 to .040, to changing the cam from the 570 to a 585, ultimately I took the most aggressive and expensive option by simply altering the pistons and the gasket as I just mentioned.  I ended up with a bike that quit "denonating" by pinging and a easier starting bike.....

OK SO THAT WAS my experience with altering an iginition on a TWIN CAM, but getting back to our FXR's here, what is it that you guys are actually accomplishing by doing what you did Mikey and what you are thinking about doing Mike?

Regards,

Tim
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fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #12 on: November 18, 2008, 07:41:28 PM »

fxr4mikey~~~~

YEEEEESSSSSS, Virginia, there is INDEED A SANTEEE CLAUUUSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:santa2:

FINALLY someone who TYPES as much as meeeeeee~~~~    :2vrolijk_21: 

 :jalapeno:

Laughing.....

Regards,

Tim


 :D :D :D


that just can't be right 

 :D :D :D :D
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #13 on: November 18, 2008, 08:01:54 PM »

Ok guys....

I must admit I am lost, the only thing I know for sure is both of you have done or at least will be doing screamin eagle heads....Mike you haven't changed Pistons on your FXR2 so why did you change your iginition coil and what specific results did you arrive at by doing so, I mean you have already changed your coil once right?

SO why did you do this Mikey???  the single fire coil?
This was going to be ONE of the items that I was going to do in my build. I was going to do my build in June of this year. When I got the tank off and realized that I didn't have room to get the rocker box bolt out of the rear cylinder I put the project on hold.  I already had the ignition system in had because it was to be a part of the project.  More on this in your later questions as to 'why' I wanted it.

Mike why are you desiring to do it, are you having problems or are you just bored and looking for a "project"?

I need some education on this please, when you guys talk about "more reliable"?   What are you both experiencing currently that you feel you need "more reliablity"???
I didn't do it for realiability reasons. However I do feel that it is AS RELIABLE as the stock ignition system and have had NO problems with it since I installed in over 10K miles ago in June.

So in "layman's terms" what are you actually experiencing with the OEM Stock Iginition set up and what did you hope to "accomplish" by moving to something different or away from OEM stock?
What I was hoping to get, and did get was:  A TUNABLE ignition system.  One where I could set the rev limit to where I wanted it (6K) stock is at about 5.2K (I OFTEN hit the rev limit on my bike), one that had more timing advance than stock, which this does (max advance at 35 degrees vs 28-30 for stock), one that I could adjust WHERE in the rpm range the timing advance would come on (helps to eliminate pinging if this is a problem for you, otherwise you can bring on the advance sooner !, one that does not retard the timing advance as I get into the upper ranges of the rpm limit.   All of these factors provide you with the ability to tune the ignition system to match up with your cam, heads and exhaust.  For me it was to be a part of the total build that I was going to do in June past, but will now complete this December.  I find that the bike starts easier than the stock ign sys, the bike has better throttle response than the stock ign sys, and the bike builds power all the way through the range until the cam quits - this is because this ign system DOES NOT RETARD the timing advance as you get into the higher RPM range like the stock system does.  The stock system will begin to retard your timing advance when you get to about 4.2K RPM.  This reduces power  :(


It "appears" you may be spending $400.00 +or- and what will you get for this "money" as it relates to the "diveablity" of your FXR's?
I got my Compu-Fire system off ebay for about $240 dollars last June, plus $35 for a single fire coil. I have $275 in it, not $400+

I did several years ago, put a Crane H4 Fireball <~~~or something like that, on to my 2003 Dyna Low Rider, and what it did was allow me to adjust or "retard" the timing for the bike, as well as control the MAX RPMS raising such up to 6500 or something like that although I never raised the limitations that high basically kept it at 5700 for MAX RPM. 

The reason I put this "ignition module" on at the time is that I had put a mild 95" engine modification with 10:1 KB Pistons, S&S 570 cams, ported and polished heads and was running a Cometic .030 gasket resulting in the bike running at 10.5:1 compression and it was "pinging" and hard starting.....so I added the "ignition" module mentioned above to help with this problem.....cost was over $300.00 and I STILL had pinging going on.....eventually I grew tired of all of it and pulled the pistons and installed a set of Wiseco 9:1 compression Flat Top Pistons, along with using a Cometic .040 thousandths gasket while continuing to run the S&S 570 Cam.  I ended up creating a compression ratio of approximately 9.25:1 and could technically range from 9.0:1 to 9.5:1 compression based upon what was done to my heads as well.   Through this process discovered that the S&S 570 cam should not be put in anything running over 10:1 compression. 

At the time, I had much debate about what I should do ranging from merely changing the head gasket from .030 to .040, to changing the cam from the 570 to a 585, ultimately I took the most aggressive and expensive option by simply altering the pistons and the gasket as I just mentioned.  I ended up with a bike that quit "denonating" by pinging and a easier starting bike.....

OK SO THAT WAS my experience with altering an iginition on a TWIN CAM, but getting back to our FXR's here, what is it that you guys are actually accomplishing by doing what you did Mikey and what you are thinking about doing Mike?

Regards,

Tim

Tim, was there anything in your question regarding how the ignition system can improve performance ?    Say, as it relates to timing advance and rev limiting, and not retarding the timing advance, or single fire vs dual fire ?

anything in your question to me that I didn't answer .... or provide enough detail ?

Mikey
« Last Edit: November 18, 2008, 08:08:21 PM by fxr4mikey »
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

RedFXR2

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #14 on: November 18, 2008, 08:14:59 PM »

Mike why are you desiring to do it, are you having problems or are you just bored and looking for a "project"?

I've been kicking this idea around for a while.  And I might be looking for a project.  It's been a few months now. ;D

I need some education on this please, when you guys talk about "more reliable"?   What are you both experiencing currently that you feel you need "more reliablity"????

I have no electrical reliability problems now--don't want any.  That's why I mentioned it.  Electrical components and all....  Hard to look at them and know their condition. 

So in "layman's terms" what are you actually experiencing with the OEM Stock Iginition set up and what did you hope to "accomplish" by moving to something different or away from OEM stock?

Easier starts, smoother operation.  Maybe a bit better throttle response.  Might be fun to play with the various timing selections.

It "appears" you may be spending $400.00 +or- and what will you get for this "money" as it relates to the "diveablity" of your FXR's?

$402 Daytona Twin Tec system is now down to $318 through Axiom Cycles.  Love that internet. ;D  Now, will the results be worth even $318?  Hard to say.  That's why I havent done it yet.  Although it's intriguing.  Who knows, I might be patient and watch ebay.

Certainly I can't do anything until I hear Howie's $.02 worth.  Well Howie, what do you think?
« Last Edit: November 18, 2008, 08:35:52 PM by RedFXR2 »
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fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2008, 08:47:35 PM »

I'm happy with the response from my bike for the aprox $275 I put into the ign system

I didn't PLAN to only do the ign system by itself, it just worked out that way.  However this gave me a very clear understanding of the changes in the bike performance from the ign system as it was the only changes made at that time.

I'd do it again.
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2008, 06:59:58 PM »

These single fire Evo programmable ignitions allow you to adjust certain items that are normally non-adjustable. Rev limit and advance curve are the most common. But the programming in them is much more aggressive than the program in the stock HD module. The SE HD module improves the ignition program, but it's still dual-fire (both plugs fire everytime, as opposed to single-fire which fires each cylinder separately). I have a Dyna single-fire ignition with a single-fire coil system that fits under the stock coil cover. You'd never know from looking at the bike what kinda ignition's in it. Contact HD_Dude, he'll hook ya up with one. He did mine before we shipped Joy to NYC! ;)

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #17 on: November 26, 2008, 10:50:55 AM »

Hey all....

I've recently found an Ultima Programmable Single Fire Ignition system through Jireh Cycles.   www.jirehcycles.com
The part number comes up as invalid. I called and asked about them, and of course, they said they're great. (imagine that)
There part number is 53-660 for 149.95. Comes with module, and a single fire coil and installation goodies.. Also, you can purchase for an additional 89 bucks a PC link and software for features which allow you to record data from the machine. I've had two different companies tell me that these are manufactured by Dynatek for Ultima, and they are the same ignition systems which are in Ultima's El Bruto motors.
Does anyone have Dynatek ignition or this Ultima ignition system in there machines? Or...for that matter, an Ultima motor? I'm going to make the move to single fire, and interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

93
« Last Edit: November 26, 2008, 12:08:04 PM by 93 FXR »
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    • CVO2: '99 FXR3 BRIGHT & DARK CANDY BLUE W/FLAMES, STAGE II 80" EVO 5-SPEED +++, "JOY"!!!
    • CVO3: 4: & 5: '85 FXWG BLACK w/CUSTOM FLAMES, 110" EVO 6-SPEED +++ CVO style!!!; '08 NSMC PROSG CUSTOM FXR BASED PRO STREET BLACK, 89" EVO 5-SPEED, VERY FAST!!!; '09 NSMC HSTBBR CUSTOM RIGID HOISTBOBBER, SILVER METALFLAKE BATES SOLO SEAT & TIN w/BLACK WISHBONE FRAME, 80" EVO (w/Shovelhead bottom end) 4-SPEED! VERY COOL!!!
Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #18 on: November 26, 2008, 12:54:32 PM »

Hey all....

I've recently found an Ultima Programmable Single Fire Ignition system through Jireh Cycles.   www.jirehcycles.com
The part number comes up as invalid. I called and asked about them, and of course, they said they're great. (imagine that)
There part number is 53-660 for 149.95. Comes with module, and a single fire coil and installation goodies.. Also, you can purchase for an additional 89 bucks a PC link and software for features which allow you to record data from the machine. I've had two different companies tell me that these are manufactured by Dynatek for Ultima, and they are the same ignition systems which are in Ultima's El Bruto motors.
Does anyone have Dynatek ignition or this Ultima ignition system in there machines? Or...for that matter, an Ultima motor? I'm going to make the move to single fire, and interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

93

Well, yeah. See the very post before yours. ;)

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #19 on: November 26, 2008, 01:26:00 PM »

Thanks,....
in the post I was looking for your thoughts.
Looking to see if anyone has used the Ultima product before, and if not, the Dynatek.
Would you recommend? Any issues? Quirks? Things that you liked/disliked?  Overall quality compared to the many other single fire's out there.....as I stated, I'm going to make the move to single fire, and trying to get as much info on the Ultima/Dynatek as possible before I crack the wallet open. You know the old saying, you get what you pay for....this seems very reasonably priced, considering the prices of other systems which are out there.
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    • CVO1: '07C FLHRSE3, BLACK ICE OF COURSE, CUSTOM 110" TC 6-SPEED +++, "CYBIL"!!!
    • CVO2: '99 FXR3 BRIGHT & DARK CANDY BLUE W/FLAMES, STAGE II 80" EVO 5-SPEED +++, "JOY"!!!
    • CVO3: 4: & 5: '85 FXWG BLACK w/CUSTOM FLAMES, 110" EVO 6-SPEED +++ CVO style!!!; '08 NSMC PROSG CUSTOM FXR BASED PRO STREET BLACK, 89" EVO 5-SPEED, VERY FAST!!!; '09 NSMC HSTBBR CUSTOM RIGID HOISTBOBBER, SILVER METALFLAKE BATES SOLO SEAT & TIN w/BLACK WISHBONE FRAME, 80" EVO (w/Shovelhead bottom end) 4-SPEED! VERY COOL!!!
Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #20 on: November 26, 2008, 01:45:57 PM »

Thanks,....
in the post I was looking for your thoughts.
Looking to see if anyone has used the Ultima product before, and if not, the Dynatek.
Would you recommend? Any issues? Quirks? Things that you liked/disliked?  Overall quality compared to the many other single fire's out there.....as I stated, I'm going to make the move to single fire, and trying to get as much info on the Ultima/Dynatek as possible before I crack the wallet open. You know the old saying, you get what you pay for....this seems very reasonably priced, considering the prices of other systems which are out there.

Dyna has been around a long time and I've been using their ignitions for years. Used to only use the Dyna S ignition, which is basically electronic points. It comes in single-fire (dual pickups) and dual-fire (single pickup). I'm using their programmable single-fire ignition for the first time now. I bought my bike in CA and shipped it back to NYC. Jim (hd-dude) from this site set my bike up before it was shipped here. He uses this ignition all the time and could better explain the benefits to you. I have no experience with Ultima's ignition at all. But with the Dyna ignition, S&S Super E and Cycle Shack M pipes, my BLUE3 runs GREAT!!! :2vrolijk_21:

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #21 on: November 26, 2008, 01:52:05 PM »

Thanks for the input....I appreciate it.
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SPIDERMAN

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #22 on: November 26, 2008, 01:57:04 PM »

Sorry I'm late weighing in on this thread. My experience is that the Crane Hi-4 is the most dependable of all of the ones you mentioned. I've run the others and always had some issue like higher than normal coil, voltage regulator, stator etc failure. Also some are very fussy and if memory serves, the Dyna-S operates with weights. Anyway, I'm a big fan of the Crane based on my personal experience with them.

B B
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    • CVO2: '99 FXR3 BRIGHT & DARK CANDY BLUE W/FLAMES, STAGE II 80" EVO 5-SPEED +++, "JOY"!!!
    • CVO3: 4: & 5: '85 FXWG BLACK w/CUSTOM FLAMES, 110" EVO 6-SPEED +++ CVO style!!!; '08 NSMC PROSG CUSTOM FXR BASED PRO STREET BLACK, 89" EVO 5-SPEED, VERY FAST!!!; '09 NSMC HSTBBR CUSTOM RIGID HOISTBOBBER, SILVER METALFLAKE BATES SOLO SEAT & TIN w/BLACK WISHBONE FRAME, 80" EVO (w/Shovelhead bottom end) 4-SPEED! VERY COOL!!!
Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #23 on: November 28, 2008, 05:07:57 PM »

Sorry I'm late weighing in on this thread. My experience is that the Crane Hi-4 is the most dependable of all of the ones you mentioned. I've run the others and always had some issue like higher than normal coil, voltage regulator, stator etc failure. Also some are very fussy and if memory serves, the Dyna-S operates with weights. Anyway, I'm a big fan of the Crane based on my personal experience with them.

B B

That's correct B B! It's just an electronic pickup that acts as points without the moving parts. It uses a points backplate. And it uses a points coil too. But the electronic Dyna single-fire I'm using now is computerized and programmable like the Crane HI-4. We were always Dyna ignition guys. You sound like a Crane guy! :2vrolijk_21:

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #24 on: November 28, 2008, 10:25:32 PM »

Hey all....

I've recently found an Ultima Programmable Single Fire Ignition system through Jireh Cycles.   www.jirehcycles.com
The part number comes up as invalid. I called and asked about them, and of course, they said they're great. (imagine that)
There part number is 53-660 for 149.95. Comes with module, and a single fire coil and installation goodies.. Also, you can purchase for an additional 89 bucks a PC link and software for features which allow you to record data from the machine. I've had two different companies tell me that these are manufactured by Dynatek for Ultima, and they are the same ignition systems which are in Ultima's El Bruto motors.
Does anyone have Dynatek ignition or this Ultima ignition system in there machines? Or...for that matter, an Ultima motor? I'm going to make the move to single fire, and interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

93

Check this out.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350127472279&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

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  • This chit ain't ROCKET SCIENCE!!!!

    • CVO1: '07C FLHRSE3, BLACK ICE OF COURSE, CUSTOM 110" TC 6-SPEED +++, "CYBIL"!!!
    • CVO2: '99 FXR3 BRIGHT & DARK CANDY BLUE W/FLAMES, STAGE II 80" EVO 5-SPEED +++, "JOY"!!!
    • CVO3: 4: & 5: '85 FXWG BLACK w/CUSTOM FLAMES, 110" EVO 6-SPEED +++ CVO style!!!; '08 NSMC PROSG CUSTOM FXR BASED PRO STREET BLACK, 89" EVO 5-SPEED, VERY FAST!!!; '09 NSMC HSTBBR CUSTOM RIGID HOISTBOBBER, SILVER METALFLAKE BATES SOLO SEAT & TIN w/BLACK WISHBONE FRAME, 80" EVO (w/Shovelhead bottom end) 4-SPEED! VERY COOL!!!
Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #25 on: November 28, 2008, 10:33:08 PM »

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #26 on: December 05, 2008, 07:47:07 AM »

I had about settled on the Daytona Twin Tec package deal but after doing some more research I find that it's not as "plug and play" as I had initially believed.  Apparently, in order to get a single-fire system out of any of these units, Daytona, Crane, whoever, one must run some additional wires from the new ignition module.  One wire to the coil and one wire to the tachometer.  The Daytona unit tells the owner to disconnect the pink wire at the tach and replace it with a wire directly to the new ignition module.  On my bike, that would mean probably cutting the wire behind the tach, since it's bundled with about 7 more wires in a group plastic plug--apparently one that can't be dismantled.  I don't like cutting (permanently) factory wiring,, plus I'd have to remove the tank to run the wire (preferably) along the existing backbone wiring harness.  Not sure how else I'd get it from the side cover to the tach without it being scabbed on somewhere..   The other new wire would go from the new module to the coil.  Both would have to be run independently and at least a bit hard to conceal or look "factory".

So, to particularly FXR4mikey and Howie, how were these additional wires done on your bikes?  I know Mikey has a seperate additional module on his coil to correct the tach--frankly I like that idea a lot better than cutting my wires and running new ones.  Daytona, for one, doesn't mention those, but I figure I could use one with their units.

What I really want is single-fire ignition that's truly "plug and play".  That is, remove the factory module/coil/sensor plate, whatever, install the new ones and ride.  Now new wires to fiddle with.  But I suppose the hard wiring of the Evo bikes don't permit that?
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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #27 on: December 05, 2008, 10:38:21 AM »

I had about settled on the Daytona Twin Tec package deal but after doing some more research I find that it's not as "plug and play" as I had initially believed.  Apparently, in order to get a single-fire system out of any of these units, Daytona, Crane, whoever, one must run some additional wires from the new ignition module.  One wire to the coil and one wire to the tachometer.  The Daytona unit tells the owner to disconnect the pink wire at the tach and replace it with a wire directly to the new ignition module.  On my bike, that would mean probably cutting the wire behind the tach, since it's bundled with about 7 more wires in a group plastic plug--apparently one that can't be dismantled.  I don't like cutting (permanently) factory wiring,, plus I'd have to remove the tank to run the wire (preferably) along the existing backbone wiring harness.  Not sure how else I'd get it from the side cover to the tach without it being scabbed on somewhere..   The other new wire would go from the new module to the coil.  Both would have to be run independently and at least a bit hard to conceal or look "factory".

So, to particularly FXR4mikey and Howie, how were these additional wires done on your bikes?  I know Mikey has a seperate additional module on his coil to correct the tach--frankly I like that idea a lot better than cutting my wires and running new ones.  Daytona, for one, doesn't mention those, but I figure I could use one with their units.

What I really want is single-fire ignition that's truly "plug and play".  That is, remove the factory module/coil/sensor plate, whatever, install the new ones and ride.  Now new wires to fiddle with.  But I suppose the hard wiring of the Evo bikes don't permit that?


I'm gonna go out to the garage and get my papers.  I made a lil wiring diagram when I switched mine out.
One thing, as you noted in your last paragraph.  You will not find a 'true plug and play' ...... the wiring is just not set up like that. You will have to add a couple of wires, and a module for the tach.   HOWEVER, you CAN make it look like factory, or very close to it.    I'll have my tank off again soon, as I start my build.   I'll post up some pics .....
HEY, I got some pics.  I had to also replace the speedo cable late this summer and I have pics from that job too.

BTW, if/when you ever have to replace your speedo cable, the tank will have to come off.......Taking the tank off is somwhat a pita, but I find it harder to get it BACK on than to get it off.  In both cases, I wish I didn't have to do it ..... but I've had it off about 5 times.


be back in a bit
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #28 on: December 05, 2008, 11:01:03 AM »


I'm gonna go out to the garage and get my papers.  I made a lil wiring diagram when I switched mine out.
One thing, as you noted in your last paragraph.  You will not find a 'true plug and play' ...... the wiring is just not set up like that. You will have to add a couple of wires, and a module for the tach.   HOWEVER, you CAN make it look like factory, or very close to it.    I'll have my tank off again soon, as I start my build.   I'll post up some pics .....
HEY, I got some pics.  I had to also replace the speedo cable late this summer and I have pics from that job too.

BTW, if/when you ever have to replace your speedo cable, the tank will have to come off.......Taking the tank off is somwhat a pita, but I find it harder to get it BACK on than to get it off.  In both cases, I wish I didn't have to do it ..... but I've had it off about 5 times.


be back in a bit


OK, here's the Compu-Fire system that I put in:

 Selectable Advance Ignition Modules
The Compu-Fire selectable advance curve ignition modules are the most user friendly ignitions on the market. They feature a NEW range of advance curves to meet the needs of engines from stock to wild. The large rotary switches allow advance curve and RPM limiter selection. Easy installation is made possible with a built in LED static timing light. The modules feature extended temperature and low voltage operation with soft start circuitry for easy starting. The modules operate with single fire or dual fire coils and the VOES is tuneable.
Use with P/N 51105 Tach Adapter for single fire coil tach signal.

20600 Ignition Module Kit for stock to mild performance
          1970-Later Big Twins and Sportsters (except Twin Cam)


I also installed the tach adapter kit - Use with P/N 51105 Tach Adapter for single fire coil tach signal.

now, how did I wire this thing up.
first all, let me say that there was a very good set of instructions that came with the unit. Covered installation well, and timing setup and advance curve settings.

you will need to have your service manual and opened to the wiring diagram for your bike

This may be a bit long winded, and I'm getting interrupted, so I might not finish it, and will have to come back,  hang with me.

The installation instructions for the 20600 kit are located here:  http://www.compufire.com/pdf-instructions/nosecone.pdf

in the section titled: CONVERTING 1980 and LATER OEM ELECTRONICS TO COMPU-FIRE® IGNITION
 
you now have the stock stuff out of the nose cone
however the ignition wires from the sensor plate is still plugged into the stock ign module.  Here you have to make your first big decision about how you want to proceed.  Here's what I did.

In order to get the new sensor plate wired into the harness I decided to cut the plug off of the harness and directly wire the new plate into it.  I left about 6 inches of wire on the plug end so if I ever wanted to put it back I'd have enough wire to do so.  I left the stock module mounted right were it was.

in this picture you can see the new module is installed in the nose cone.  Look over to the left under the side cover. You'll see the stock module still there. You'll see the small coil of wires just under that. That is where I wired in the new Compu-Fire ignition into the harness.  I just spliced them in, and zip tied them up using the little frame lugs that were there for the original harness.

In my case it went like this. 

Red wire from module = 12+v and goes to the white/blk cable in the harness that runs to the + side of the coil
Green wire from module = voes and goes to the purple wire in the harness that runs to the voes
Black wire from module = goes to black wire in the harness that runs to the front cylinder side of the coil
White wire from the module = goes to the pink wire in the harness that runs to the rear cylinder side of the coil







« Last Edit: December 05, 2008, 12:00:21 PM by fxr4mikey »
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #29 on: December 05, 2008, 12:00:42 PM »

part two



now, let's talk about the tach adapter .... it's a LITTLE thing, about half the size of your thumb.

ok, look at this picture


look at the read cyl .... see the white wire coming from the coil to the lil black thing - that's the tach adapter.
The white/blk wire from the tach adapter goes to the center post on the coil
The pink wire from the tach adapter splices onto the pink wire in the harness.  The way I handled that was.  1) chk'd my wiring diagram to determine that the pink wire was in fact coming from the tach.  Traced it back into the harness,I used an ohm meter several times. I had to unplug parts of the harness and I used the meter to determine that I still had the correct wire. It was a bit of a challenge.  Cut a small slit in the tubing that surrounds the harness, just enough to get some of the pink wire open so that I could cut it. I cut the wire, spliced in the tach adapter and then taped it up.  I put the lil tach adapter up on top of the harness and zip tied it in place.  The wires on the adapter are short !  so it had to be close to the coil.  I didn't want to have troubles later with chafing so I put some of that curly wire wrapping around the wire from the adapter to the coil.  You can see that in the picture, you can also notice how short that wire is, I don't know why that wire had to be so short .....  The tach adapter is a SEALED module with the wires sealed into it.  If you wanted longer wires I guess you could splice onto the end of it.

To help eliminated problems I soldered in the splices, wire nutted them, taped them, and zip tied them into place.

I hope this is of some help to you.

I didn't really want to cut into the harness either, but it was the fastest, easiest way to do it.  I had basically the harness completely off the backbone.  It's all back nice and neat looking now, under the tank   LOL.

You could do it by getting another plug at the stock ignition module, get a pin pusher, put pins on the new wires from the new ign module and push them into the new plug and then plug it in.
OR
I don't see why, if you didn't care about the stock sensor cable, you could cut the plug off that, and wire in your new sensor module with pins into that plug and connect it up.  You will still have to find a way to handle the tach adapter as the wires are not long enough to reach that far.

If you need/want to discuss in on the phone you can PM me and I'll pass ya my phone number.


Best of Luck to you !!
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The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #30 on: December 05, 2008, 12:03:37 PM »

I had about settled on the Daytona Twin Tec package deal but after doing some more research I find that it's not as "plug and play" as I had initially believed.  Apparently, in order to get a single-fire system out of any of these units, Daytona, Crane, whoever, one must run some additional wires from the new ignition module.  One wire to the coil and one wire to the tachometer.

you will have 4 wires coming from your new sensor plate ign module IF you are going to run a 'single' coil that is 'single fire'
You will have:
1) one that goes to the voes
2) one that goes the the front cylinder post of the coil the + side
3) two that goes to the rear cylinder post of the coil the - side
4) Then you will also have one more, but this one doesn't come from the ign module but is your tach adapter ...  that goes to the center post of the coil

well, that is if you get the same kit that I did  :D




 The Daytona unit tells the owner to disconnect the pink wire at the tach and replace it with a wire directly to the new ignition module.

I just traced it back and accessed it from the harness and spliced into it


 On my bike, that would mean probably cutting the wire behind the tach, since it's bundled with about 7 more wires in a group plastic plug--apparently one that can't be dismantled.  I don't like cutting (permanently) factory wiring,, plus I'd have to remove the tank to run the wire (preferably) along the existing backbone wiring harness.

you definitely have to remove the tank to do this job ... you have to have access to the harness, and it's strapped to the frames backbone under the tank.   :(


 Not sure how else I'd get it from the side cover to the tach without it being scabbed on somewhere..   The other new wire would go from the new module to the coil.  Both would have to be run independently and at least a bit hard to conceal or look "factory". 

In order to keep it as neat as I thought I could, I just spliced into the harness right beside the stock ign module. That way I only had to run wires from the nose cone to the side cover. And that is EXACTLY the same route that the stock wires run. Once spliced into the harness there, the wires are already over to the coil for you.


So, to particularly FXR4mikey and Howie, how were these additional wires done on your bikes?  I know Mikey has a seperate additional module on his coil to correct the tach--frankly I like that idea a lot better than cutting my wires and running new ones.  Daytona, for one, doesn't mention those, but I figure I could use one with their units.
Daytona, for one, doesn't mention those, but I figure I could use one with their units.
NOTE: Dyna tach adapters ARE NOT compatible with Compu-Fire modules and must not be used with the Compu-Fire module.
I DO NOT KNOW if you can use the Compu-Fire tach adapters with the Dyna ignition module

What I really want is single-fire ignition that's truly "plug and play".  That is, remove the factory module/coil/sensor plate, whatever, install the new ones and ride.  Now new wires to fiddle with.  But I suppose the hard wiring of the Evo bikes don't permit that?

it really isn't setup to facilitate 'true plug and play'
« Last Edit: December 06, 2008, 07:40:10 AM by fxr4mikey »
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•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
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•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
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RedFXR2

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #31 on: December 05, 2008, 12:38:10 PM »

Mikey, thanks very much for far more effort than I would ever have knowingly asked.  I really appreciate it.  Fantastic tutorial. :2vrolijk_21:

I still have to mull this over.  See, I already have a SE ignition module, SE coil, and SE plug wires.  The SE module provides a more aggressive timing curve ....

[edit to add]  I stand corrected.  I looked up my SE module on the HD website and apparently all it changes over stock is the rev limit:

Screamin' Eagle® Street Legal Performance Ignition Modules

These street legal modules increase the rev limit of the stock module while maintaining the low-and-mid range precision of Original Equipment ignition curves.

32630-96

6000 RPM


....and incresed rev limit to 6000RPM.  The SE coil is 40,000 volts, and the SE wires supposedly handle the increased voltage.  So you see, I already have much that an aftermarket ignition system would provide, except that mine is still dual fire with a stock advance curve.  My decision is this:  Is a single-fire version of what I mostly already have in dual fire mode, worth it in parts $$ and my own labor?

One of the further articles I read about dual-fire vs single-fire mentioned that a rider won't much feel any difference until higher RPM's (How high?  Didn't give any numbers) where single-fire offers an advantage.  This article also mentioned that single-fire systems effectively reduce or eliminate backfiring on downshift--I've never had any backfiring on my bike.

Obviously, there is much more to installing one of these things than I had initially believed, and I'm not that comfortable messing with electrical stuff except to directly replace it.  I've run wiring and relays for aftermarket lighting on cars for years, but that stuff doesn't keep the car from running like messing up the ignition system would.

Care to speculate:  If you had what I presently have in terms of module/coil/wires in dual fire, would you still have installed your Compu-Fire system?  Do you ever use the rotor switches to change the advance curve/rev limit for any reason or does it always stay where you set it?  I could stick with dual-fire and install only one of the aftermarket "external" modules--that would be a plug and play swap with my existiing module, no extra wires, providing a more aggressive timing curve.  Wonder if that alone would be worth it?
« Last Edit: December 05, 2008, 12:55:33 PM by RedFXR2 »
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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #32 on: December 05, 2008, 12:44:28 PM »

Mike, mine was very simple. I had hd-dude (Jim) install it while my bike was still in CA! ;D

Not sure what went into setting it up and wiring the Dyna Single Fire. Maybe Jim will see this and shed some light. But send him a PM and he should be easily be able to help ya out with this. Jim's a great guy and always willing to help us. :2vrolijk_21:

Hoist! 8)
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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #33 on: December 05, 2008, 01:20:44 PM »

Mike, mine was very simple. I had hd-dude (Jim) install it while my bike was still in CA! ;D

Not sure what went into setting it up and wiring the Dyna Single Fire. Maybe Jim will see this and shed some light. But send him a PM and he should be easily be able to help ya out with this. Jim's a great guy and always willing to help us. :2vrolijk_21:

Hoist! 8)


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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #34 on: December 05, 2008, 01:29:33 PM »


Have you picked out our souvenirs yet :nixweiss: ?

BwaaHaaaHaaa!!! No Don, not yet. I'm still here! ;D ;D ;D

Hoist! 8)
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fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #35 on: December 05, 2008, 04:23:48 PM »

Mikey, thanks very much for far more effort than I would ever have knowingly asked.  I really appreciate it.  Fantastic tutorial. :2vrolijk_21:
You're Welcome !  I'm glad that it was helpful

I still have to mull this over.  See, I already have a SE ignition module, SE coil, and SE plug wires.  The SE module provides a more aggressive timing curve ....
[edit to add]  I stand corrected.  I looked up my SE module on the HD website and apparently all it changes over stock is the rev limit:
Screamin' Eagle® Street Legal Performance Ignition Modules
These street legal modules increase the rev limit of the stock module while maintaining the low-and-mid range precision of Original Equipment ignition curves.
32630-96
6000 RPM

....and incresed rev limit to 6000RPM.  The SE coil is 40,000 volts, and the SE wires supposedly handle the increased voltage.  So you see, I already have much that an aftermarket ignition system would provide, except that mine is still dual fire with a stock advance curve.  My decision is this:  Is a single-fire version of what I mostly already have in dual fire mode, worth it in parts $$ and my own labor?
You ask all the hard questions  LOL
I only have experience with the Compu-Fire ign ..... so you might have to research this for the other brands.
The Compu-Fire module has a rotary dial that can be set to work with a DUAL FIRE COIL, OR  A SINGLE FIRE COIL
So you could install this and run it with your SE Dual Fire Coil and plug wires (I have the SE plug wires also)
Is it worth it ......... well, in my opinion, and from things that I've read about ignition systems, you will definately produce more power by having more choices about what timing curve to run. So having an adjustable timing curve will make you smile more  :D

One of the further articles I read about dual-fire vs single-fire mentioned that a rider won't much feel any difference until higher RPM's (How high?  Didn't give any numbers) where single-fire offers an advantage.  This article also mentioned that single-fire systems effectively reduce or eliminate backfiring on downshift--I've never had any backfiring on my bike.
I've not read anything about backfiring on down shifting  ...
Single fire does seem to make the bike start easier
Having it connected up to the voes helps to retard the spark when the engine is under heavy load
Having the option to adjust the curve to advance it as soon as possible in the RPM range and advance it as much as possible will have the bike producing more power, and doing it sooner ini the rpm range.  The theory also goes that single fire reduces vibration, but I can't say that I really noticed that.

Obviously, there is much more to installing one of these things than I had initially believed, and I'm not that comfortable messing with electrical stuff except to directly replace it.  I've run wiring and relays for aftermarket lighting on cars for years, but that stuff doesn't keep the car from running like messing up the ignition system would.
It's not that hard, take your time, double check your work to make sure you have the correct wires when splicing. Refer OFTEN to the installation instructions and the wiring diagram for your bike. If you don't have an ohm meter, get one, they are not expensive and you can pick one up at Lowe's as an example.
Care to speculate:  If you had what I presently have in terms of module/coil/wires in dual fire, would you still have installed your Compu-Fire system?
I would, yes.  I may, or may not, change the coil to single fire. But FOR SURE I would put in an adjustable ign module so that I could advance the curve.
It's not only that the curve advances the timing, but that it does so earlier in the rpm range than stock, it advances further than the stock module, and here's the kicker ..... it DOES NOT RETARD the advance once you get into the 4200 rpm range.  The stock ign systems begin to retard the advance curve at about 4200, and the higher you rev, the more they retard the advance. This STOPS your bike from producing max power, and actually continues to reduce power as you push to the limits of the rpm range.   WHY?  emissions controls.

 Do you ever use the rotor switches to change the advance curve/rev limit for any reason or does it always stay where you set it? 

I have not changed the settings from the day that I installed and adjusted it back in June of this year.  I will have to go through the adjustment process again after I change my cam and heads and pipes.  But once I get it tuned in it will stay there ..... until I take it to be dyno'ed

I could stick with dual-fire and install only one of the aftermarket "external" modules--that would be a plug and play swap with my existiing module, no extra wires, providing a more aggressive timing curve.  Wonder if that alone would be worth it?
I'm sure that you will notice a difference with a adjustable ign system, even if you run it in dual fire mode.

Best of luck in your decision, not that you need it ......  I'm sure you'll make the right decision ..... just get a module that can be set to either run Dual Fire or Single Fire ....... try it in dual fire, later if you think that you'd like to try the single fire, just change the setting on the module, change the coil and re-adjust.
OH, BTW, if you put one of these in.  WHENEVER you adjust the settings on the module.  BE SURE TO SHUT OFF THE IGNITION ..... reason is that the settings of the module are read at the time the switch is turned on and is not re-read.  So in order for the new settings to take effect the ignition must be shut off
« Last Edit: December 06, 2008, 07:45:44 AM by fxr4mikey »
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #36 on: December 05, 2008, 04:25:20 PM »

here's an interesting read, kinda short, with pics, about getting more HP from your bike by switching to single fire and adj ign system.
While it's not a Harley, the results I believe are typical

http://www.hotbikeweb.com/tech/0202hb_ignition_timing/index.html
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

RedFXR2

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #37 on: December 05, 2008, 08:35:25 PM »

....just get a module that can be set to either run Dual Fire or Single Fire ....... try it in dual fire, later if you think that you'd like to try the single fire, just change the setting on the module, change the coil and re-adjust.

This sounds like a good summation of what I will be deciding on.

Mikey:  Thanks for an amazing amount of time and effort on your part.   :2vrolijk_21: :drink:
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fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #38 on: December 06, 2008, 07:48:50 AM »

This sounds like a good summation of what I will be deciding on.

Mikey:  Thanks for an amazing amount of time and effort on your part.   :2vrolijk_21: :drink:


Mike,
You're Welcome !

Please keep us informed as to what you decided to do.  If/When you make your changes let us know what you think afterwards. THANKS !!

Mikey
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2000 FXR4 Candy Tangerine
The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

RedFXR2

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #39 on: December 08, 2008, 10:15:40 AM »

Well, frankly the more I dig into this the more I question the worth of the whole exercise.  Here's some stuff I've found that's not really negative but it, as I said, questions the thinking and the functional worth of the functions and capabilities of most aftermarket ignitions.  And these guys and their sources aren't selling anything, by the way.



Single fire vs. Dual fire Ignition Systems

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdignitionmodules.htm

[The nightrider website ( a great source of info for Evo stuff)  won't let me copy directly, but you can read it for yourself.  He basically questions the worth of single-fire over dual-fire.]


Here, nightrider specifically praises the SE module, which is what I already have, among several aftermarket units tested:

Screamin’ Eagle ignition modules

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdseignition.htm


A quote:  “We highly recommend the use of this module on stock and mildly modified bikes.  The cost of this module is low and the performance is excellent.”



And fiinally from the book 101 Harley Davidson Performance Projects For Evolution Big Twins and Sportsters I copied these passages verbatim as it explains timing in Evolution engines.  It lends credence to keeping the standard advance curves and explains why even aftermarket curves are pretty much the same as stock HD.  It also points out the negative side of running hotter timing for extended periods (heat).


“Ignition advance generally starts at some small amount, say 5 to 10 degrees, then increases with engine speed, the idea being that as turbulence in the combustion chamber increase with speed, it affects the amount of time available for burning the fuel-air charge.  At some speed, generally 2500-3000 rpm in an Evo engine, this turbulence offsets the burn time.  At that point, the spark advance required becomes nearly constant, up to the highest engine speed.”

“Proper timing helps ensure optimum fuel mileage and a lack of fuel ‘fussiness’ and it’s attendant pinging and dieseling, and last but not least, the engine runs cooler and therefore lasts longer.  It’s almost an axiom that an advance in timing may help power a little, but it will increase heat a whole lot, which is not a great tradeoff in an air-cooled engine.  Wouldn’t you trade a tenth or two at the strip for 20,000 more miles on the road?”

“Even aftermarket ignitions with adjustable curves tend to go along with the factory recommendation for maximum ignition timing.”

Another chapter in this same book deals with selecting a high performance factory ignition  module.  I had no idea that HD made so many over the years--there's a whole chart by part number, advance curve by letter designation and part numbr.  I have the Screaming Eagle module 32630-96 with a "P" curve.  According to the book "No graph is available for this latest module (formerly HDI).  [HDI is HD International].  Harley's position on this is pretty clear from this statement dated 4/16/97: 'That information is considered to be confidential.  Although it may have been given out in the past, we have since taken a new position of protectiing that in formation'  That said, the new module, fitted to 1996 and newer 1340 models, worked better than the earlier stock module."

I have no idea what to make of the alleged HD refusal to state the curve (EPA trouble maybe?), but the writers seem to believe it works better than stock.

Moving on in the book to the next chapter dealing with aftermarket ignition systems, the author first sums up the stock system and says that the first priority upgrade would be going to a 40,000 volt coil in dual-fire mode.  [I've already got a SE 40,000 volt coil.]  Reading on, he talks about single-fire:

"The biggest performance advantage to single-fire is probably not the fact that each cylinder gets its own individual spark, so much as the ability to set the timing optimally for each cylinder....easier starting, crisper throttle response.....Whether or not there is a power increase accompanying these benefits is subject to some debate.  If there is, you can be it comes from proper ignition timing."

I can set the timing with a strobe and get it dead on the factory mark.  Rear cylinder?  Who knows?  Maybe it varies by a few degrees.  Sure does run fine, regardless.


So, to this point, I'm having more and more trouble thinking this project is worth doing, to me anyway.  Obviously there are those who are happy with the results and that's fine.  But for the the type of cruising I do, with the occasional burst of hot rodding, I just don't see the positives outweighing the cost and the negatives.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2008, 01:06:55 PM by RedFXR2 »
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MrFeexit

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #40 on: February 08, 2009, 09:02:26 AM »

WHEW!!!! MY EYEBALLS HURT!!!! I just read all of this. WOW. Thanks to all of you who took the time to share your expertise and experience. After reading this it really ends up being a "what do I want?" type of issue. The guy at the cycle shop put it to me like this. Switching to a single fire isn't likely to WOW you at first...you wont really notice, but after awhile if you took it away then you would really notice. At this point I am looking for long term reliability with a good power band. Not looking to race anyone but want to get up and go when I hit the freeway. Thanks to all of your efforts I can now say... I have a headache :knife:...BUT, I think I still would like to switch over to a single fire system.
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RedFXR2

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #41 on: February 08, 2009, 10:48:47 AM »

I can relate--trying to decide yes or no on this gave me a headache. :)
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fxr4mikey

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #42 on: February 08, 2009, 07:01:16 PM »


it didn't make my head hurt at all .....

it's just like CAMS !!!    EVERYONE has an opinion about what cam you should be running .... and on and on .....

some of the 'experts' say that single fire makes no difference, then there's the 'other experts' that disagree with those experts .....

I decided that for me, my belief is that it makes a difference.  I put it on my bike, I like it, I'm VERY HAPPY with it

I have NO reliability issues with my bike.  I have over 12K miles with that Compu-Fire single fire ignition.  And don't think for a minute that those are close to home miles.
I live in SC .... In 08 I rode from here to ND, LA, AL, AR, OK, IL, MI, GA ...... then I was home for 3 weeks and rode from here to the UP in MI and went all the way around Lake MI, across the UP back home again ............   any problems with the bike   NO, NOTA, NONE !!!   I'm still smiling  ;D 

I wouldn't hesitate to jump on my bike and take off on a trip to circumnavigate around the entire lower 48 ............ now that would be an awesome ride !!
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The Build -
•   SE Heads w/Cometic .030 gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Chrome lifter blocks w/HD B lifters
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Vance and Hines straight shots

MrFeexit

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #43 on: February 08, 2009, 07:45:23 PM »

Well if you ever hit Wisconsin...like for the Tomahawk Harley Rally...you are welcome to crash here!
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ltank

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #44 on: March 08, 2009, 03:00:00 PM »

Hi,
 My guestion is if I order an Screaming Eagle Dual Fire Ignition Module with stock coil. What part number do I use?  I know the connectors on a 2000 FXR4 are not same as a 2000 Dyna. There are on returns on electrical parts or special order stuff. Do I order for FXR in general?
Thanks,
Ltank
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fxr4guy

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Re: Aftermarket ignition systems
« Reply #45 on: March 14, 2009, 09:32:50 AM »

Hey Red one that I dont see listed is Spyke I have a Spkye Ignition on my fxr4 and have had it for years  I wouldnt use anything else it has an 80,000 volt coil, 3  ohm with a real fast rise time I never have to choke my bike to start it pump the throttle about 4 or 5 times and hit the start button vroom she fires right now. My motor has been built and my FXR dynoed @93 H.P, 88 ft/lbs Torgue.
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