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[TN]

i concur about the dedicated 12v from the battery. they also have a relay handi. i have the same system as we're speaking of,  and the fully digital too!. xeonlink is the chits for the tr because the bulb base length.


i learned the hard way

TN

[Highwaystar]

The problem every one is having is due to the small capacity accessory wire under the fairing. You are only using the original load capable head lamp wiring as a switching source for high-low and switching on the internal ballast relay. That tiny tap every one discovered is too small for two head lamps.  It is way undersized. The most important point would be that direct wiring to the battery eliminates the draw effect and isolates the head lamps from the starter.  

[skippy49]

Again No Problem at all with the Xenon High and low system. The answer is a dedicated fused main power wire strait from the battery to the igniters. No more voltage drop because the battery acts as a dampner against the draw of the starter.

  I finally got the web site address with the install instructions and the instructions do call for the main power to be connected directly to the battery.  This afternoon I had some free time so I pulled the fairing and ran both a hot wire and a ground from the battery to the HID connections at the lights and tried it again. (after fighting the fairing trying to put it back on---with the windshield still attached---until I finally removed the windshield and then it was fairly easy)   I've tried starting the bike several times now and the lights always have stayed on-so I think Highwaystar and the instructions are correct.  You need to hook direct to the battery for the power source.  I put the fuse back at the battery though so it would be easier to get to if it blew and also protect the wire from there to the lights.

[bakes]

i concur about the dedicated 12v from the battery. they also have a relay handi. i have the same system as we're speaking of,  and the fully digital too!. xeonlink is the chits for the tr because the bulb base length.


i learned the hard way

TN

i have no idea what you just said!

[Eqcons]

i have no idea what you just said!

Me neither! (I thought it was just me.....) 

Jim

[TN]

i have no idea what you just said!

the bulb base is the portion that has the electro magnet in it which makes the bulb go in and out. okay this portion sticks out from the headlight reflector itself. some of the bulb bases are too long for proper headlight adjustment and the fitting of the trim piece on the fltr. i have had some that would hit the inside fairing bracket. this bulb has the shortest bulb base that i have found. thats all.

http://www.xenonlink.com/popup_image.php?pID=4913&image=0



TN

[bakes]

ok. that makes sense, are you familier with the xtralight offering and their digital model which sounds easier to wire because the igniter and ballast are in the same unit (from what i read).  They also sell the other models, but claim this is the best and its water proof too , which sounds good.
im not going to decide anything for a few weeks, and hold off my impulsive nature!!!

[Highwaystar]

Skippy

[TN]

taking the fairing off is simple. putting it back on a tr is a bitch. try this. once the fairing is off, pop the headlight bucket out by depressing the three green clips on the inside. put the fairing back on the clips hooks, then insert the headlight bucket. don't force it.

makes the install much easier.


 

TN

[Jim Kerr]

I had a similar issue with one of my xenon lights.  It was perplexing because one light worked perfectly 100% of the time while the other one would fail to start almost every time.  I initially thought it was a power issue, but I noticed that the light wouldn't always ignite even when turning the ignition switch on (before start) with a fully charged battery.  When starting the bike, sometimes the light would start and sometimes it wouldn't.  I also noticed that the light would occasionally go out while riding.  A hi/lo beam swap usually got it back on, but it was annoying. 

I went through a series of troubleshooting steps that included changing the bulbs.  I thought about running a battery connection, but wanted to completely eliminate the HID system first.  I ended up changing the ballast to a new one and the problem went away.  Power is probably the problem, but I believe it is an internal issue with the ballast and its capacitor not specifically due to the power drop when starting.  The SERG has a good electrical system and it is designed to run halogen bulbs, which draw more amps than xenon (even during the initial startup).  Even if the lights go out when starting, they should immediately restart after the bike is running (no different than flashing lights when passing).  The restart/initial start is the issue most are having.  The second firing of the light is failing.

Xenonlink lights are cheap and they probably have spotty quality control to keep the price down.  They see this problem all of the time.  They have the same issue with cars.  My recommendation is to swap out the ballast on the light you are having problems with before doing anything else.  It should be a warranty swap.  I ended up buying a new kit so I had two ballast to play with.

[Highwaystar]

Jim, The problem is voltage drop in the system. The simple fix is installing a dedicated Main power wire off the battery to the ballasts. Remember, the bikes head lamp wiring is no longer load bearing for your xenon low, only a draw for High beam. The Xenon High-low system only uses the bikes head lamp wiring as a switching source and has no draw from the bikes head lamp wiring. It seems the Xenon Low only system is more sensitive. The battery will act as an isolator from voltage drop and isolate the ballasts when running a direct wire.

[Iglide]

I had a similar issue with one of my xenon lights.  It was perplexing because one light worked perfectly 100% of the time while the other one would fail to start almost every time.  I initially thought it was a power issue, but I noticed that the light wouldn't always ignite even when turning the ignition switch on (before start) with a fully charged battery.  When starting the bike, sometimes the light would start and sometimes it wouldn't.  I also noticed that the light would occasionally go out while riding.  A hi/lo beam swap usually got it back on, but it was annoying.  

I went through a series of troubleshooting steps that included changing the bulbs.  I thought about running a battery connection, but wanted to completely eliminate the HID system first.  I ended up changing the ballast to a new one and the problem went away.  Power is probably the problem, but I believe it is an internal issue with the ballast and its capacitor not specifically due to the power drop when starting.  The SERG has a good electrical system and it is designed to run halogen bulbs, which draw more amps than xenon (even during the initial startup).  Even if the lights go out when starting, they should immediately restart after the bike is running (no different than flashing lights when passing).  The restart/initial start is the issue most are having.  The second firing of the light is failing.

Xenonlink lights are cheap and they probably have spotty quality control to keep the price down.  They see this problem all of the time.  They have the same issue with cars.  My recommendation is to swap out the ballast on the light you are having problems with before doing anything else.  It should be a warranty swap.  I ended up buying a new kit so I had two ballast to play with.

Jim,
Mine also goes out occasionally while riding. And it's always the same one.
Did Xenonlink send you a new ballast and bulb set, without your sending in the exchange first? I really hate to mess with that fairing twice. Or, did you have to buy another set?
Seems to me this setup should work, without modifying the existing electrical system. If that becomes necessary, then so be it, just one more PITA.

Hiway,
At what point in the the fairing wire harness, did you tie-in that dedicated circuit back to the battery. Detail about this connection will help. I don't want the lights to be on all the time.
Pictures would be a big help.

At any rate, the required lamp starting voltage is what it is, (Xeonlink should know how much voltage drop this set up can tolerate). When the starter engages, the proper voltage is there or it is not. Voltage measurements at the battery and existing ballast supply wire, during start up, should tell the facts. If the voltage drop at the ballast supply wire is significantly lower than what is measured at the battery (I would guess no more than 5%) ... well....

There may be two problems here disguising themselves as one.

Thanks
Rob

[Jim Kerr]

Jim,
Mine also goes out occasionally while riding. And it's always the same one.
Did Xenonlink send you a new ballast and bulb set, without your sending in the exchange first? I really hate to mess with that fairing twice. Or, did you have to buy another set?
Seems to me this setup should work, without modifying the existing electrical system. If that becomes necessary, then so be it, just one more PITA.

The kits are fairly cheap, so I just bought a new one.  The setup seems to be working fine for me now that I've changed the ballast.  It is a PITA to pull the faring.  It was worth spending a few $$. 

[skippy49]

Jim,
Mine also goes out occasionally while riding. And it's always the same one.
Did Xenonlink send you a new ballast and bulb set, without your sending in the exchange first? I really hate to mess with that fairing twice. Or, did you have to buy another set?
Seems to me this setup should work, without modifying the existing electrical system. If that becomes necessary, then so be it, just one more PITA.

Hiway,
At what point in the the fairing wire harness, did you tie-in that dedicated circuit back to the battery. Detail about this connection will help. I don't want the lights to be on all the time.
Pictures would be a big help.

At any rate, the required lamp starting voltage is what it is, (Xeonlink should know how much voltage drop this set up can tolerate). When the starter engages, the proper voltage is there or it is not. Voltage measurements at the battery and existing ballast supply wire, during start up, should tell the facts. If the voltage drop at the ballast supply wire is significantly lower than what is measured at the battery (I would guess no more than 5%) ... well....

There may be two problems here disguising themselves as one.

Thanks
Rob

Rob,  I ran two wires directly from the battery, under the tank and into the fairing for the positive feed and a ground.  I put the fuse under the seat to protect all the wire and also to make it easier to get to  to replace it.  Someone else on here told me/us that the part that you plug into the old headlight bulb connector is just used to switch the light on and off and the high/low part but the main power comes through the power feed that is separate.  All I can tell you is that once I ran these wires, my lights stay on now.

[Highwaystar]

AMEN