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[Mr. Wizard]

Best guess would be Chemical reaction, especially if you said it was so hot.

Dick, I'll have to agree, it was not temperature hot it was chemically hot. The top coat simply melted the base coat.

I was thinking I should have applied it with a lighter touch and left it instead of smoothing with a toothpick. But, once the top coat was applied you could see the base coat becoming lighter in color.

I could have left it to see if it turned back to the same color but if it didn't then I would have played heck removing it after it dried.

[spydglide]

Have you considered chroming?    har!  spyder

[TIF2]

I'm a little bit confused ... it seems like the top coat was fine when applied to the "touched-up" portion, but had a severe reaction to areas around the part that had the touch-up paint applied?

As DICKW said ... there was a chemical reaction that took place and it appears as though it was the touch-up paint coming in contact with the factory clear. Dunno though - need a pic maybe?

Did you wipe the surrounding surface with some type of chemical to clean it?
Spit-balling here ... but definitely a chemical reaction took place, the question is - what caused it?

[Mr. Wizard]

Have you considered chroming?    har!  spyder

I wonder what a SESG would look like 100% chrome. Lots of cleaning for sure.

[Mr. Wizard]

I'm a little bit confused ... it seems like the top coat was fine when applied to the "touched-up" portion, but had a severe reaction to areas around the part that had the touch-up paint applied?

As DICKW said ... there was a chemical reaction that took place and it appears as though it was the touch-up paint coming in contact with the factory clear. Dunno though - need a pic maybe?

Did you wipe the surrounding surface with some type of chemical to clean it?
Spit-balling here ... but definitely a chemical reaction took place, the question is - what caused it?

The top coat worked and looked find on all the areas around the filled in chips but it reacted to the base coat that filled the chips.

The surrounding surface and the filled in chip holes were cleaned after sanding with an alcohol pad.

Sitting back and thinking about all this there is no doubt the base coat and clear coat will not mix. Even if the base coat is dry and sandable. I do have an idea though....

How about this... When preping this afternoon, and after the sanding was complete, the color seemed to match just fine. It was ready for the top coat I'm sure of it. Now, If I complete the steps again and get the base coat ready for the top coat again but instead of using the top coat I switch up and use a standard clear coat first. If the standard clear coat is not as hot as the top coat the color will not diminish and it will give me a good surface to apply the top coat. I truley believe the base coat and top coat just will simply not cover one another.


 

[TIF2]

Just FYI ... that replacement part in Tequila Sunrise retails for $180, is $144 at 20% off, and is NOT restricted.
I know what I would do .... 1-800-CALL-JENNI

I'd keep the original part to learn and experiment with.

[TIF2]

I truley believe the base coat and top coat just will simply not cover one another.

Painters call this a "spray-out" ... take a piece of scrap metal and test it. It's not a problem with it getting hot ... it's only a problem if it doesn't cure with the intended results. I would be VERY leary to try a different clear as a "mid coat".

After your posts it seems as if you may have jumped the gun a bit because of the reaction "warming" - that could be normal. Step back ... do a test panel (it doesn't have to be that pretty) then re-attack. First rule of painting is to understand what you are applying, how it flows-out, how it cures, etc.

Just my input ...

[DICKW]

Just FYI ... that replacement part in Tequila Sunrise retails for $180, is $144 at 20% off, and is NOT restricted.
I know what I would do .... 1-800-CALL-JENNI

I'd keep the original part to learn and experiment with.

It's always good to play around with the scoot, if it gets all goobered up and you still learned something.

That is what counts.

Then if you can't live with it, then go that route.

[spydglide]

It's always good to play around with the scoot, if it gets all goobered up and you still learned something.

That is what counts.

Then if you can't live with it, then go that route.

It's good to have that back up available.  spyder

[slamr]

You're doing a great job patching the chip but you will always know it's there.    I personally would dwell on this for as long as I owned the bike.  I would just replace the part or change to chrome.  I know it's expensive but think about the piece of mind.    JMHO. . . . .  Good luck. 

[Mr. Wizard]

I have a test board I've been using and have a base coat sample test already on it. I took half of it and applied the top coat... again it melted the base coat application.

I took the clear coat and applied it to the other half of the base coat I was testing. It went on fine, no discoloration and the base coat seemed to be solid.

I will let that dry and watch how it cures. Now this excites me a little...

As far as replacing the part...  I may if this doesn't work out but not right now. Thanks for the suggestion though, it may come down to just that.

Oh man... silly thread but having fun non the less

[TIF2]

Oh man... silly thread but having fun non the less

And that's all that matters brother!
Always here to offer worthless advice whenever you don't need it   

Keep us posted (pun intended)!

[CVOTequila]

Where was this chip again?

[miker]

I think the upper cover would look better in chrome anyway, jussayinzall.

The painted upper covers remind me of clam digger pants, dont know why, I have to accept what few thoughts my addled brain spews out.

[Mr. Wizard]

Where was this chip again?

It's just above the beer can on the right side. There's a picture of it at the top of page 2 of this thread.

Update... Still taking my time to fill the chip marks. Will be doing the third coat later today.

I've done more research and think I understand why the first application melted when the top coat was applied. It was indeed the "curing" of the base coat. Even though I am working in a heat controlled environment the touch up paint remains soft.

Looking at the used 3000 wet/dry paper I am noticing a build up on the paper. It is not loose powder like one would think would be on the paper, it is solid build up like I sanded something wet or sticky. I went on to look at my test board. My fingernail will imprint in the test swabs after several days of the original application. This tells me the touch up paint lacks "hardener" normally mixed with the paint. So, if the first applications didn't cure properly then the clear pearl addition would again soften the applied base mixture and cause it to loose it's chemical bond.

I have started using a hair drier to cure the paint in between coats hoping to harden each application. This seems to be working a bit better than allowing an air-dry effect.

Chroming is simply not an option. The beer cans are usually chrome but to do this doesn't follow the theme of the TS and the cost involved making this change doesn't seem reasonable at this time. This project has grown out of hand but my maker touched me with a curiosity bug long ago and it's now my nature to follow through on aggravating things like this. Chroming would be an easy way out.

Again the chip marks are filling in nicely and the added heat seems to harden the touch paint a little better. Before I add a third coat today I will test the sanding and check the curing. If all goes well I would expect this to be completed soon. At that time I will post a before and after picture and give a step by step analogy of the process.

(Like I said before, this thread is a bit silly but if it helps someone else down the road I will continue to wear my dunce hat for a while)