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[HunterJ]

If not, we have a problem Houston! Good grief! They should last for the life of the bike unless you beat the crap out of your engine.

I hope so. I'd much rather get the 117 than the 113 at virtually the same cost. Too close to a better riding season for me to take apart now. Like to see more builds and numbers too.

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[KC2GIW]

Are you getting a tune without putting mileage on the bike?

This will be my course of action.

Usually takes them the better part of a day to dial it in on the dyno anyways


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[RoadDawg]

I hope so. I'd much rather get the 117 than the 113 at virtually the same cost. Too close to a better riding season for me to take apart now. Like to see more builds and numbers too.

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Unlike some on the forum, I have complete confidence in the 117 kit. I think if you keep away from frequent maximum rpm and drive sanely it will last many years. I can tell you that it's a fun ride just keeping it under 5000 rpm. Very powerful with great giddy-up. Where are you in SC?

[RoadDawg]

This will be my course of action.

Usually takes them the better part of a day to dial it in on the dyno anyways


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I know some advocate doing it this way, I mean with no street miles prior to tuning. Funny how different opinions run on this. When will yours be ready for the dyno?

[KC2GIW]

I know some advocate doing it this way, I mean with no street miles prior to tuning. Funny how different opinions run on this. When will yours be ready for the dyno?

It's got more to do with when the dyno is ready for it.

By design, the dyno cell at PHD draws in and exhausts outside air and since it's a little chilly now, they usually like to wait until it's around 40F to get a good tune in the bike and not freeze dry their dyno guys.




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[RoadDawg]

It's got more to do with when the dyno is ready for it.

By design, the dyno cell at PHD draws in and exhausts outside air and since it's a little chilly now, they usually like to wait until it's around 40F to get a good tune in the bike and not freeze dry their dyno guys.




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Gotcha! Brrrrrr!!!!

[Ridgerunr]

Fella's, it's been talked about many times here. It's better to break in the motor on a dyno, where the temps are highly controlled, the operator has a map installed to ensure it's not too lean, or too rich. Putting miles on the road without knowing AFR and timing parameters is asking for trouble.

[Road Dad]

I agree 

Fella's, it's been talked about many times here. It's better to break in the motor on a dyno, where the temps are highly controlled, the operator has a map installed to ensure it's not too lean, or too rich. Putting miles on the road without knowing AFR and timing parameters is asking for trouble.

[RoadDawg]

Fella's, it's been talked about many times here. It's better to break in the motor on a dyno, where the temps are highly controlled, the operator has a map installed to ensure it's not too lean, or too rich. Putting miles on the road without knowing AFR and timing parameters is asking for trouble.

I agree too. What I mean is, my tuner did an initial 50 mile break in on the dyno, then wanted me to put 500 miles on the bike, keeping it under 3800 rpm before bringing it back for a final tune. Some do it this way, others don't.

[Fatboy]

It's got more to do with when the dyno is ready for it.

By design, the dyno cell at PHD draws in and exhausts outside air and since it's a little chilly now, they usually like to wait until it's around 40F to get a good tune in the bike and not freeze dry their dyno guys.




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 Is PHD going with a canned map on your new build?

 I've never known them to do a complete tune manually, nor did they have a DynoJet trained & certified tech on staff so you'll want to probe hard to insure your getting a complete tune based on how "your bike" is running on their dyno (all gears, all throttle positions, etc). And I'd ask for that commitment in writing.

 As an alternative for a complete and proper tune I'd recommend Ray Hulten at Hulten Speed Sports in St Johnsville, NY.

 http://hultenspeedsports.com/

 Maybe since last time I asked (BTW good shop otherwise) a bunch of questions on dyno tuning things have changed at PHD, worth double checking.

[North Star]

I hope so. I'd much rather get the 117 than the 113 at virtually the same cost. Too close to a better riding season for me to take apart now. Like to see more builds and numbers too.

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Why? I'm having the GMR 113 kit done over the 117. The 113 kit will cost less even with the ported head option, equalized chambers, bronze guides, etc and will end up being a fully optimized package that will end up around 125/130 +, which is the same or better than the 117 kit out of the box.

Sure the 117 kit can be optimized with headwork and maybe a cam swap, but could probably also use better guides and other components, but thats even more $ with an end result of just a bit more power and tq.

Plus I feel Steves 113 pkg is tried and true, with guaranteed good results. The 117, being that it is all OEM HD, is an unknown entity as far as reliability and longevity goes. Look at their track record after all.

[North Star]

GMR 113 kit- pistons, rings = $319
Cylinder honing using tq plates= $240

Equals $559

HD 117 kit- Pistons and cylinders = $1,200

[Ridgerunr]

I agree too. What I mean is, my tuner did an initial 50 mile break in on the dyno, then wanted me to put 500 miles on the bike, keeping it under 3800 rpm before bringing it back for a final tune. Some do it this way, others don't.

 

[fastfreddy]

GMR 113 kit- pistons, rings = $319
Cylinder honing using tq plates= $240

Equals $559

HD 117 kit- Pistons and cylinders = $1,200

what cams you end up going with?? and the 117ci may just be the next best thing 

[KC2GIW]

113 head badges? 

I don't think so!


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