Finally !! All the neutral rattle is gone!. Some of you that have been following the saga of the neutral rattle I'm sure were wondering..damn is he ever going to figure it out and the answer is yes!.
For those that haven't , I had the dreaded neutral rattle. Pulled the gear set out 1st time. Slipped in a new "scisssor" gear, new trap door bearings , stock trap door, slipped it back in , was a little better , not to my liking. Called John Sachs , told me how much the shafts move around in the trans with the stock trap door and what the solution was. A Baker "street door, John gave me a sweetheart deal on one and we slipped it in there, along with new MDG bearing and MD Gear. Mine was fine but I wanted everything new.
Slipped it in, still not to my liking, figured screw it , i'd live with it. Fast forward to last weekend, slipped in a set of Barnett discs in my A&S clutch and after I did i shook the chain up and down and damn! there was the rattle . Started scratching my head thought it was in the A&S clutch with the ramps and floating pressure plate. Was going slip a conventional clutch in a see if that fixed it.
Before I did that I messaged Ron aka ( rbabos) on HTT. He figured it out real quick! Here is his reply:
If you smack the top of the chain, I bet you hear the clunk. It's from the shoe hitting the stop. Making the chain tighter will usually bring on the clunking at hot idle because with heat the space between the shoe decreases and erratic engine idle will make it hit more frequently and takes less chain whip to do it. Smooth as possible idle is a must to get the OEM tensioner to stay quiet. A looser chain will cause more whip bottoming the shoe also if idle is rough. Very fine point where it will work quiet cold and hot. In my bike, what I hear is the ramps tapping on the slipper. Goes away if I pull the clutch in.
In both cases, pulling the clutch in takes some resistance away from the drive. There is less mass in the trans area with the plates separated so the engine pulses don't whip the chain as much with this reduced load between the two points in your case. Gear set in both cases is taken out of the mix as well which can effect ramping rebound in the assist. I have tried the Baker tensioner and it will eliminate that OEM tensioner sensitivity to shoe clunking. A poor chain can also drive the OEM nuts if it has too much deviation in the loose and tight spots when checking tension.
Ron
After it got hot it started rattling again . grr...messaged Ron again ,said to either weld up the stock tensioner or slip the Hayden I had laying around and test it. Slipped the Hayden in fired it up, quiet as a church mouse. Went out for about a 50 mile ride banged on it pretty hard let it idle quiet as a mouse...Finally! Now that's what i was looking for!. What I'm probably going to do is weld up the stock tensioner and use it.
Many thanks to Ron( rbabos) , John Sachs, Ed Dahair ( Dyno Difference) and Harry. This is what makes both these , HTT & CVO forums awesome.
What a hell of an education! I got 1/2 way good at R&R'ing a gear set....If I had to do it over again.., I would start with the tensioner and make sure you didn't have any noise there or anywhere else in the primary before I'd pull the gear set out. But if you do...the Baker Door & the scissor gear sure make them shift nice and drop right into gear nice and quiet.
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Topic: The rest of the neutral rattle solved! (Read 1230 times)