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Author Topic: Extended Brake Pedal  (Read 4836 times)

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RonandJanet

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Re: Extended Brake Pedal
« Reply #30 on: May 04, 2018, 06:45:06 PM »

Yes my EZ-Brake made such a difference it was amazing!
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david barnby

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Re: Extended Brake Pedal
« Reply #31 on: June 09, 2018, 02:56:47 PM »

I'm one to find ways to work around the instructions when I see a better way (which is a kind way of saying I don't read the instructions.... :) ) but I didn't see any possible way of getting to the removal of the stock lever without loosening the exhaust pipe and basically removing it for all intent and purposes.  No way I could see on mine to get to the point of cotter removal and/or master cylinder removal.  I figgled, foddled and farted just about every way possible and gave up.  I was going to install the floorboard extensions anyway but had contemplated the smaller brake peddle foot pad for a few months and gave that a try.  I did devise a cover so when I was grinding the brake lever so the smaller pad would fit, the dust/soot/metal shavings would be confined and not go willy-nilly all over the bike.

I'm glad you are pleased with your choice of the Kuryakyn extended brake pedal.... ;D

For some reason the Kuryakyn instructions and YouTube help videos are not very helpful.  One guy manages to get the OEM pedal out and kuryakyn in by just removing header heat shield.  Shop manual has removal of fairing lowers and or engine bars.  All show how tough it is to remove the cotter pin.

I did mine today after gazing at the setup over a beer last night.  Whole job start to finish 45 minutes.  Do not remove floor board, do not remove exhaust and or heat shield and certainly leave engine bars and lowers (if you have them) where they are.  Process:

1.  Put something large and softish under the whole foot board / master cylinder assembly to support when you have the whole heavy thing in your hands after removing a few bolts

2.  Remove the two bolts that hold the rear master cylinder to the engine mount plate and leave the master cylinder floating.

3.  Remove the three large bolts holding the engine plate to the frame (this is the plate to which the master cylinder and foot board hangers also mount

4. Gently rest the whole shooting match on whatever you chose in #1.  Take care to not over strain the brake fluid pipe in the process.

5.  You now have the clevis and cotter pin out in the open right in front of you. Whip them out, unbolt the OEM lever, slide it out, clean the shaft, grease it and slide on the Kurakyn (before doing this snug up the grease nipple as it arrives loose for some reason)

6.  Get a long rod that fits through the larger plate mounting holes and use this as a guide to position up the plate for remounting.  Is heavy and awkward to get a bolt started otherwise.  Always remember to not lose your cool and or risk over straining the brake fluid pipe.  Get all three bolts in and tourqued up, re-attach the two bolts/master cylinder and mechanical job done

7. Clean all the grease marks off your chrome and make sure to use something good to get it off the exhaust parts before starting the engine

8.  Check brake function, go have fun

It is really worth doing the job. The Kuryakyn seems to be a modest change in length but it is perfect for allowing full use of footboard and with its lower angle is so much easier to cover and use in anger. I have the kuryakyn board extenders which also move the boards out from the bike.  Whole thing works sweet together

Cheers
David
« Last Edit: June 09, 2018, 03:05:35 PM by david barnby »
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