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[REGGAB]

just dont ask how i knew to ask you to check that first..... 

Deal.
So, now that I know that everything works, all I gotta do is turn the H9 into an H8 (simple enough), and figure out where I'm gonna mount the ballasts.  There's plenty of real estate under my fairing.  Just want to make sure I don't have any EMI challenges once the install is complete.  Been using the search function here.....ALOT.....and I've read where one rider has mounted ballasts directly to his outer fairing using silicone, which means he can remove his outer fairing by disconnecting at the stock connectors.  Still just a bit leery about how warm those ballasts will get.  2ln has had the best idea I've seen yet......provided the Hawg Wired system is installed.  That, or something like it is on my list, but hasn't been done yet.  Cross beams under the speakers are looking like good candidates though.  Can bury the stock headlight harness in the bundle under the radio when finished and blend in the ballast harnesses with it as well.  From what I've read, it is best to steer clear of audio harnesses to reduce the possibility of EMI.  We'll see how it goes.  I'll git-r-dun one night this week.

[Twolanerider]

Deal.
So, now that I know that everything works, all I gotta do is turn the H9 into an H8 (simple enough), and figure out where I'm gonna mount the ballasts.  There's plenty of real estate under my fairing.  Just want to make sure I don't have any EMI challenges once the install is complete.  Been using the search function here.....ALOT.....and I've read where one rider has mounted ballasts directly to his outer fairing using silicone, which means he can remove his outer fairing by disconnecting at the stock connectors.  Still just a bit leery about how warm those ballasts will get.  2ln has had the best idea I've seen yet......provided the Hawg Wired system is installed.  That, or something like it is on my list, but hasn't been done yet.  Cross beams under the speakers are looking like good candidates though.  Can bury the stock headlight harness in the bundle under the radio when finished and blend in the ballast harnesses with it as well.  From what I've read, it is best to steer clear of audio harnesses to reduce the possibility of EMI.  We'll see how it goes.  I'll git-r-dun one night this week.

Good to read you got the lion's share of it worked out Henry.  Little victories and add them together .

As I've changed radios and done other things inside the fairing over the years have had the ballasts in more than one spot.  Never had them mounted directly to the inner fairing though.  If there is enough real estate that mounting wouldn't worry me though.  The ballasts shouldn't get warm enough to be a worry.  At least not unless one failed miserably. 

I'd be more comfortable doing that with an insulator though.  What about a couple of nice wide pieces of milspec velcro stuck on the ballasts and the inner?  Would make them serviceable for the day when they eventually need service and would act as an insultator to keep some potential heat from direct contact with the inner.

[REGGAB]

That'll friggin' blind ya!

Now I gotta find some matching spots.

Kit for the Purple Bike is on the way.

[Twolanerider]

That'll friggin' blind ya!

Now I gotta find some matching spots.

Kit for the Purple Bike is on the way.

They are a significant improvement.  Once used they become one of those things that you almost won't do without.

If you've not had it out at night yet don't be surprised if it becomes necessary to do one more thing.  The line of illumination on each of the HID kits I've installed was noticably lower.  Had to adjust the headlight up a lot to being it where you want it.  On those dual element housing have had to take the spring out of the top adjuster and grind it down to shorten it enough to gain necessary travel.

[REGGAB]

They are a significant improvement.  Once used they become one of those things that you almost won't do without.

If you've not had it out at night yet don't be surprised if it becomes necessary to do one more thing.  The line of illumination on each of the HID kits I've installed was noticably lower.  Had to adjust the headlight up a lot to being it where you want it.  On those dual element housing have had to take the spring out of the top adjuster and grind it down to shorten it enough to gain necessary travel.

Well, we're getting some weather down here......again.  Unfortunately, it is forecasted for the weekend as well, but that really is just a guess.  Just like the old saying, "you want the weather to change in Alabama, just wait a minute or three.
Anywho.......first dry night, I'll get out and see how they look and adjust from there.  We're a pretty good ways out in the bean and cotton fields, so should be able to tell right quick what adjustments will be needed.  Thanks for the spring tip.  Don't have a bench grinder..yet..so will have to use a die grinder if necessary.

[Twolanerider]

Well, we're getting some weather down here......again.  Unfortunately, it is forecasted for the weekend as well, but that really is just a guess.  Just like the old saying, "you want the weather to change in Alabama, just wait a minute or three.
Anywho.......first dry night, I'll get out and see how they look and adjust from there.  We're a pretty good ways out in the bean and cotton fields, so should be able to tell right quick what adjustments will be needed.  Thanks for the spring tip.  Don't have a bench grinder..yet..so will have to use a die grinder if necessary.

If yours is anything like my own was don't be surprised if the top spring is shortened a lot either.  Lost half of mine before had adjustment within range.  I rode around the neighorhood with an appropriate tool in my shirt pocket.  Ride a couple blocks.  Hop off, adjust it up a bit, ride a bit more, hop off, adjust up a bit more, etc.  On and off the bike a half dozen times before finally had it where exactly where I wanted it.

[sadunbar]

They are a significant improvement.  Once used they become one of those things that you almost won't do without.

If you've not had it out at night yet don't be surprised if it becomes necessary to do one more thing.  The line of illumination on each of the HID kits I've installed was noticably lower.  Had to adjust the headlight up a lot to being it where you want it.  On those dual element housing have had to take the spring out of the top adjuster and grind it down to shorten it enough to gain necessary travel.

Yep..had to do exactly that!   

[REGGAB]

Don would you happen to know the halogen passing lamp part number I'll need to match my HIDs?  I have spare yellow H-D P/N 68453-05, and the numbers on the back of it are GE 881L 12V
H27W/2 E1 and I can't make out the rest of it.  Just looking for the correct size and proper tang fitment for my passing lamps, so I can order a set of white spots and get rid of those ugly yellow ones.

I guess I'm gonna need to convert the Purple Bike passing lamp housings to the newer style, since it has the old sealed bulbs.  Need to get in there and see if I'll need to upgrade the connectors as well.........most likely will.

[naitram]

shouldnt need to change the connector to goto halogen passing lamps. i didnt need to on the SERK

i also got lucky adjusting the dual bulb on the SERK i didnt need to cut the spring down

[Twolanerider]

Henry, as Neal mentioned the connectors will match up behind the bulbs.  Same connector behind the sealed beam or the replaceable type.

If I'm reading correctly here you're at least contemplating HID bulbs for the spots.  Be very careful.  I looked in to that once.  The bulbs were too long for the housings.  End of the element would touch the rear of the glass.  Did it with bulbs from two different manufacturers on things around here and Chief reported the same thing.

The bulb style for the replaceable lamps/housings is the 880/881/893/894/896/899 style bulbs.  When looking at a HID kit likely all be interchangeable.

[REGGAB]

shouldnt need to change the connector to goto halogen passing lamps. i didnt need to on the SERK

i also got lucky adjusting the dual bulb on the SERK i didnt need to cut the spring down

Neal,
The picture shows the type of passing lamp and connectors that are in the Purple Bike right now.  If there is a sealed beam unit available that will match the HIDs, then that would be perfect.  If not, then won't I have to convert to the new style passing lamp bulb housings, like what's in the Green Bike, and upgrade the connectors to fit whatever bulb fits those bulb housings?

[naitram]

no the 2 connectors are the same.



the lead from the bulb to positive

the ground lead to the clip that holds the bulb in.

will make sense when you see the assembly

[REGGAB]

Henry, as Neal mentioned the connectors will match up behind the bulbs.  Same connector behind the sealed beam or the replaceable type.

If I'm reading correctly here you're at least contemplating HID bulbs for the spots.  Be very careful.  I looked in to that once.  The bulbs were too long for the housings.  End of the element would touch the rear of the glass.  Did it with bulbs from two different manufacturers on things around here and Chief reported the same thing.

The bulb style for the replaceable lamps/housings is the 880/881/893/894/896/899 style bulbs.  When looking at a HID kit likely all be interchangeable.

Don, I think what Neal said is true for the Green Bike as shown in the picture with this post, but the connectors for the Purple Bike are different as shown in my previous post.

I'm not thinking about HIDs for the spots.  Rather I want to replace the current yellow halogen spot bulbs with white halogen spot bulbs, so they'll at least be a little closer to matching the color of the headlight.  Right now, mine looks like your's did when you installed your HIDs way back when.

[REGGAB]

no the 2 connectors are the same.



the lead from the bulb to positive

the ground lead to the clip that holds the bulb in.

will make sense when you see the assembly

That part of it makes sense to me.  Did your SERK have sealed beam spots before, like my Purple Bike, and did you replace the sealed beams with bulb housings, which allowed you to change the bulbs?  Or did your SERK come with bulb housings, which allowed you to change the bulbs?

Am I making any sense at all?   Bottom line:  Just want to change my spots to make them match the HID headlights as close as possible.

[Twolanerider]

Don, I think what Neal said is true for the Green Bike as shown in the picture with this post, but the connectors for the Purple Bike are different as shown in my previous post.

I'm not thinking about HIDs for the spots.  Rather I want to replace the current yellow halogen spot bulbs with white halogen spot bulbs, so they'll at least be a little closer to matching the color of the headlight.  Right now, mine looks like your's did when you installed your HIDs way back when.

Decided would be easier to show it than explain it when you don't have the bits in front of you to illustrate the description.  Just popped one of mine from the red bike to show.  The bulb has pigtails that mate to the existing ground and power spades in the housing.  Disregard that red terminal cover.  It's not anything different.  Just had one get too warm a couple years ago when a bulb failed.  That's only the repair.