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[LRebel]

Well, tell me how long a clutch should last 

My 08 SEUC just turned 14K.  I ride pretty easy... must ride pretty easy, still have the original rear tire and it looks like it could go a few more thousand.

While riding to work last Friday, I went to go around some slower traffic... no down shift, just a good roll of the throttle to speed up.  Well, the RPMs came up, but the bike speed didn't... then the RPMs came back down and the bike started to pick up speed.

Took the bike to the dealer this morning to get it checked out.  I told them that the clutch had slipped.  Well, they called me a few hours later and said that they checked it and the clutch plates were below minimum specs.  The service writer also quickly told me that the clutch plates are not covered under warranty, since they are a "wearable item".  He then proceeded to assure me that it was no big deal... he said it is a pretty cheap fix and then said the cost would be something over $300 (don't remember the exact cost ).  And, they don't have the clutch plates in stock.  Will order and have them in about 5 days.... Go Figure 

I cut him off in the middle of his goodie goodie crap and ask him why the clutch on a bike with 14K miles is already worn out.  He assured me that the mechanic will check it out and they will let me know.  We'll See 

[Twistedrider]

Same thing happened to me, going down the highway, open the throttle and no go. Checked the plates, they were good. Then I noticed the hydraulic clutch had no play in it, very tight when the clutch was out. Flushed the clutch lines with new oil and all was well. When the clutch is out, you should have a little play in the handle, if it is tight then it could be holding the clutch plates slightly open. Maybe this ruined the plates or maybe not.

Also noticed the Clutch line was very close to the engine near the frame rails (getting hot), used a couple of Ty wraps to keep the line away from the engine. Think I saw a tech notice on this on one of the forums.

[JDOFLHRIDER]

well on my 07 seuc clutches went out at 30,000 .I did some checking and if you do any mods to your motor ,you will have more tq than clutch rated for. Energy one makes a great clutch and when I talked to tech about oil to use with new clutch he said  anything but syn3 he said that oil made some problems with clutches. When buying new clutches check tq rating harleys are usually a crank and dyno's are tire and that makes a difference.Energy one clutches have held up great since install and fare priced also. Good luck.  JDO

[WFP]

Hmmmmmm...

Saturday of Memorail day weekend, we were on the MassPike heading to CT.  Going up a grade, I twisted the wick to 'help' it go and watched the RPMs go from 3K to 4K with no change in speed.  I was in sixth gear.    About 75 miles later was at my parents and noticed a noise ... rhythmic chirp.  150 miles later get home and the noise is a little worse.  I dropped it off at the dealer last Saturday...awaiting word on the problem.  Noise sounded more like the comp sprocket location as opposed to the clutch.

Bill

2008 CUSE with 29700 miles.

Well, tell me how long a clutch should last 

My 08 SEUC just turned 14K.  I ride pretty easy... must ride pretty easy, still have the original rear tire and it looks like it could go a few more thousand.

While riding to work last Friday, I went to go around some slower traffic... no down shift, just a good roll of the throttle to speed up.  Well, the RPMs came up, but the bike speed didn't... then the RPMs came back down and the bike started to pick up speed.

Took the bike to the dealer this morning to get it checked out.  I told them that the clutch had slipped.  Well, they called me a few hours later and said that they checked it and the clutch plates were below minimum specs.  The service writer also quickly told me that the clutch plates are not covered under warranty, since they are a "wearable item".  He then proceeded to assure me that it was no big deal... he said it is a pretty cheap fix and then said the cost would be something over $300 (don't remember the exact cost ).  And, they don't have the clutch plates in stock.  Will order and have them in about 5 days.... Go Figure 

I cut him off in the middle of his goodie goodie crap and ask him why the clutch on a bike with 14K miles is already worn out.  He assured me that the mechanic will check it out and they will let me know.  We'll See 

[Nano]

Similar issue about a month ago on '08 with 23K.  Took it in for service, changed fliuds and adjusted the clutch.  No problems since.  Keeping my fingers crossed.  My extended warranty DOES cover the clutch.

Well, tell me how long a clutch should last 

My 08 SEUC just turned 14K.  I ride pretty easy... must ride pretty easy, still have the original rear tire and it looks like it could go a few more thousand.

While riding to work last Friday, I went to go around some slower traffic... no down shift, just a good roll of the throttle to speed up.  Well, the RPMs came up, but the bike speed didn't... then the RPMs came back down and the bike started to pick up speed.

Took the bike to the dealer this morning to get it checked out.  I told them that the clutch had slipped.  Well, they called me a few hours later and said that they checked it and the clutch plates were below minimum specs.  The service writer also quickly told me that the clutch plates are not covered under warranty, since they are a "wearable item".  He then proceeded to assure me that it was no big deal... he said it is a pretty cheap fix and then said the cost would be something over $300 (don't remember the exact cost ).  And, they don't have the clutch plates in stock.  Will order and have them in about 5 days.... Go Figure 

I cut him off in the middle of his goodie goodie crap and ask him why the clutch on a bike with 14K miles is already worn out.  He assured me that the mechanic will check it out and they will let me know.  We'll See 

[LRebel]

Thinks everyone for the input and suggestions. 

I may be checking out the 2011's when they hit the dealers next month.  May be time for the 08 to go.

Maybe a 2011 RoadGlide built to a 103....... ain't buying another 110.  If I have to settle for a regular production bike, so be it.  I can trick it out and not have to deal with the 110 issues 

[Mr D]

well on my 07 seuc clutches went out at 30,000 .I did some checking and if you do any mods to your motor ,you will have more tq than clutch rated for. Energy one makes a great clutch and when I talked to tech about oil to use with new clutch he said  anything but syn3 he said that oil made some problems with clutches. When buying new clutches check tq rating harleys are usually a crank and dyno's are tire and that makes a difference.Energy one clutches have held up great since install and fare priced also. Good luck.  JDO

 
http://www.energyoneclutches.com/product.php?productid=15&cat=9&page=1

[LRebel]

Ok, the dealer just called to tell me that my bike is ready. 

I ask if they determined what caused the clutch to fail at 14k miles.  I was told that the oil in the primary soaked into the clutch plates and caused them to swell... causing them to wear prematurely.  He said that the oil in the primary was reddish or purple in color.  He said it definitely was not Harley oil. 

No, it was not Harley oil... the oil in the primary was 20/50 Aimsoil 

They better have done the work right! 

Still don't know why the clutch failed at 14k miles!

[WFP]

I have not heard yet about mine but I have only used Syn3...

[mrmagloo]

As an FYI, I bought my '06 CUSE two weeks ago, and thought the clutch was going as it was getting 'grabby' from a start. Previous owner only used the Syn3 and a quick inspection showed it was still pretty clear.  Before bringing it in to replace the clutch, I took a shoot, and dumped the Syn3, and put in Mobil1 4T 10w40 in the primary which I've used exclusively in the Deuce. Took it out for a spin last night, and much better. This morning, took it to work, and its like brand new. Although it's not due for the other holes for another 1,000 miles, this weekend will be the last this bike ever sees this Syn3 junk.

[LRebel]

As an FYI, I bought my '06 CUSE two weeks ago, and thought the clutch was going as it was getting 'grabby' from a start. Previous owner only used the Syn3 and a quick inspection showed it was still pretty clear.  Before bringing it in to replace the clutch, I took a shoot, and dumped the Syn3, and put in Mobil1 4T 10w40 in the primary which I've used exclusively in the Deuce. Took it out for a spin last night, and much better. This morning, took it to work, and its like brand new. Although it's not due for the other holes for another 1,000 miles, this weekend will be the last this bike ever sees this Syn3 junk.

Your primary may have been over-filled before you changed it.

[mrmagloo]

Could have been under filled as well? I was half tempted to measure the evacuated oil, but it looked about right. Who knows, but I'm fixed.

[grc]

Overfilled will cause drag, underfilled won't.


Jerry

[LRebel]

Ok, the dealer just called to tell me that my bike is ready. 

I ask if they determined what caused the clutch to fail at 14k miles.  I was told that the oil in the primary soaked into the clutch plates and caused them to swell... causing them to wear prematurely.  He said that the oil in the primary was reddish or purple in color.  He said it definitely was not Harley oil. 

No, it was not Harley oil... the oil in the primary was 20/50 Aimsoil 

They better have done the work right! 

Still don't know why the clutch failed at 14k miles!

Ok, Someone Help Me Out Here: 

The story continues.... Got the bike back from the dealer.  Made the 35 mile ride home and the bike performed well.  Due to some travel, a few health issues, and other stuff, the bike did not get rode much... just a few very short runs around town.

Saturday I take off to go ride in a benefit run.  Fire the bike up and leave the house early... while it is still somewhat cool outside.  The bike runs great.  Ride to Shawnee (about 15 miles).  First bike out is at 11:00 and July in Oklahoma can be pretty hot.  We head out shortly after 11:00 and the temp is already up in the 90's.
I'm running down the two-lane back roads and accelerate after rolling through a small town to get back up to speed.  The clutch is slipping again.  This bike has only been rode a few hundred miles since the dealer installed the new clutch plates 

I very gently make my way back to where the run started and park my bike.  It set for three or four hours and cooled completely down.  I started the bike up and the clutch felt great - like there was never a problem.  I take off heading back home and about half way home, the clutch is starting to slip again.

I have determined that this is temperature related.  Someone tell me whats going on here?

[grc]

Take a look at your copy of the repair order and see if they changed the clutch spring.  If they didn't, perhaps they should have.

I don't exactly follow the BS they told you about the oil soaking into the clutch plates and causing them to swell, which caused them to wear out prematurely.  If the plates swell, they would drag, not slip.  And the fact that your clutch is slipping within a few hundred miles of their "repair" tells me they didn't find or fix the root cause of your problem.  In other words, your service department is FOS.  Big surprise.

Here's just a thought, with no data to support it other than a feeling based on all the other screwups from H-D that we actually do know about.  The only difference in the clutch for a regular bike and a CVO is the spring.  Does anyone suppose, knowing how H-D does things, that they might just put the wrong clutch spring in some of these bikes?  My answer to that is, does a bear crap in the woods?

BTW, as noted previously, the Harley clutch is marginal at best if you increase torque much from stock.  The clutch with the heavy duty spring is only rated for 125 ft-lbs at the crank if I remember correctly, and Harley claims 115 ft-lbs at the crank stock.  Now, if they install the standard spring instead of the heavy duty spring, you can imagine the result.

I assume you plan to take the bike back and have a word with the aces at the dealership.  Let us know what kind of story they come up with this time.


Jerry


Oh, one other thought.  Check your hydraulic fluid level and make sure it isn't over full.  Too much fluid can keep the clutch piston from returning completely, and the effect would be similar to riding the clutch in a car.