Topic: Amsoil Synthetic V Twin primary oil (Read 10203 times)

Yorktown CVO · « **on:** March 25, 2016, 02:48:00 PM »

Anyone use the Amsoil Synthetic V Twin Primary Fluid . Time for a fluid change on my bike. Changing to Amsoil but wanted some info on Amsoil's Primary fluid vs 20W-50.

roadrunner · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2016, 03:37:56 PM »

Quote from: Yorktown CVO on March 25, 2016, 02:48:00 PM

Anyone use the Amsoil Synthetic V Twin Primary Fluid . Time for a fluid change on my bike. Changing to Amsoil but wanted some info on Amsoil's Primary fluid vs 20W-50.

Redline shock proof in primary, mtl in trans.

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Dan_Lockwood · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2016, 04:04:50 PM »

I don't think you want Redline Shockproof in your primary, that's really a high cling climbing trans lube.

Fired00d · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2016, 04:07:24 PM »

Quote from: roadrunner on March 25, 2016, 03:37:56 PM

Redline shock proof in primary, mtl in trans.

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Quote from: Dan_Lockwood on March 25, 2016, 04:04:50 PM

I don't think you want Redline Shockproof in your primary, that's really a high cling climbing trans lube.

I think he may have them backwards

....

Redline HD Shockproof - Tranny
Redline MTL - Primary

That's what I use.

Ride Safe,
Fired00d

RGlideKid · « **Reply #4 on:** March 25, 2016, 04:11:02 PM »

I'm using the AMS Oil Primary in my bike. Like it just fine.

FLTRCVO · « **Reply #5 on:** March 25, 2016, 05:05:03 PM »

Been using 20W - 50 Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for many years now in all 3 holes on my 2009 FLTRSE3; Original motor, Primary, and Transmission along with their internals, 78250 miles.

roadrunner · « **Reply #6 on:** March 25, 2016, 05:05:44 PM »

Sorry got them reversed, MTL primary, shockproof trans, amsoil 20w50cc

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RoadMonkey · « **Reply #7 on:** March 26, 2016, 05:46:07 PM »

Amsoil in all three too...Engine, Trans and Primary. It makes me happy

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2016, 10:55:28 AM »

Just to be clear the engine oil is not to be used in the trans.. States that clearly on the bottle for trans you must use a Gl rated oil which the engine oil is not

FLTRCVO · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2016, 04:26:37 PM »

Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on March 28, 2016, 10:55:28 AM

Just to be clear the engine oil is not to be used in the trans.. States that clearly on the bottle for trans you must use a Gl rated oil which the engine oil is not

Dude I've been selling this oil for years, I have techs on speed dial, You are absolutely incorrect!
It's OK to hate the product, and not to prefer to use it, but please do some research before spewing off incorrect information.
Amsoil states Amsoil 20W - 50 Synthetic MCV, is the oil for my 2009 FLTRSE3 Motor, Primary, and Transmission and I may substitute the tranny oil for another Amsoil product, and I opt not to.

So for those who want to be properly informed, please go to the Amsoil website, enter the year, motorcycle, manufacturer, model and the results will be displayed so then you can choose with oil if an option does exist.

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2016, 05:40:38 PM »

I read the bottle, and on on the back of this v twin 20-50 engine oil its states CLEARLY Not recommend where an API GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil is required.. I know engine oil has the same shock value as a GL lube.

. I do in fact sell amsoil and the information I was told before we became a dealer was this very thing and guess what there it is in black on white on the bottle..

Road Dad · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2016, 05:54:45 PM »

From the website:

20W-50 Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil
High-Performance Lubricant for Engines, Transmissions and Primary Chaincases
Advanced multi-functional formula for both domestic and foreign motorcycles. Excellent in air-cooled motorcycle engines due to high heat resistance. Can be used in engines, transmissions and the primary chaincase. Not recommended where an API GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil is required.

It's good to read the whole label

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2016, 06:02:49 PM »

I am not saying it cannot be used. However I feel that if it was the best then other would do it as well. But in fact when you look at say Redline they spell it out clearly why it is not the best idea.. I was not trying to start a pissing contest only going by what I was told can can read . I sell and use the amsoil sever gear oil. And guess what my customer that used to install the engine oil in there trans . Ask my what I did to stop or reduce the trans clunk.. I tell them nothing just used a trans oil in the trans, and they are happy I in fact just saw that now they offer a V twin trans oil . I will be giving that a try after I find out what the weight of it is..

SneakyPete · « **Reply #13 on:** March 28, 2016, 07:54:50 PM »

I used the Amsoil primary fluid in my bike, but the clutch didn't like it, so switched to 32 oz ATF and added 6 oz of the primary oil. Clutch is happy and compensator is getting some lubrication.

I also use the new Amsoil transmission fluid, but when I change it, I will likely use Redline or Belray as they can be purchased locally. Toss up here, no difference.

I also ran the Amsoil 20-50W in the motor but have switched back to Mobil 1 Vtwin only because it is available locally.

skycat · « **Reply #14 on:** March 28, 2016, 08:18:49 PM »

Every one that has a Harley has a different answer, and i am no different.
I use the BMW DCT trans oil ( Pentosin BMW - DCTF-1) SAE 75W this is not a cheap oil but it is the best for the Harley wet clutch with a good viscosity for the chain and cush drive setup.
The clutch disengages 100% and has very good bite, no big clunk into low gear.
Try it you will love it..

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #15 on:** March 29, 2016, 10:50:32 AM »

For a aggressive fluid we use belray . Works great no mixing and easy to find. I have in the past used the aft and added lube. ATF is great for a clutch but lacks lucubration property's. ( spelling on that might have it wrong but you get the idea)

Use of a engine oil for low power units works fine or the lube but its a clutch so a fluid that is syn or thick can create some issues with a clutch. Its all based on your build. We have in fact had some issues with syn oil in general in the primary . for high power bikes. Even with beefier clutch set ups. Go back to a thinner fluid with less friction modifiers in it and you have less work to do getting the clutch to hold.

I have tried just about everything on the market. Lucas works well also but not as well as the belray. SO we that is the go to fluid for us at this point on everything.

Just what we see..

Badger Mike · « **Reply #16 on:** March 31, 2016, 02:44:39 PM »

I have somewhat of the opposite problem. I have a well tuned 124 (139/140)in my bike with a Barnett Scorpion clutch and 30T instead of the compensator. I need to find an oil that will keep this best from slipping (sounds like a screech) when it gets warm. Thoughts?

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2016, 03:20:33 PM »

Quote from: Badger Mike on March 31, 2016, 02:44:39 PM

I have somewhat of the opposite problem. I have a well tuned 124 (139/140)in my bike with a Barnett Scorpion clutch and 30T instead of the compensator. I need to find an oil that will keep this best from slipping (sounds like a screech) when it gets warm. Thoughts?

Ok the sound you hear is from glazed fibers.. If the clutch is still under 1 year I would get in touch with Barnett and ask for a warranty pack .. However instead of the black carbon I would suggest the red.. I went through the same thing and the red grips the same but smoother engagement . Now understand that these are just names and not all fibers are made the same . I would also suggest the belray fluid.. I run that clutch you have ( mine is the complete version with lock up ) and I went through that as well.. Fluid type did not matter but once I went to the red fibers problem solved.. If you have the red fibers you could try to lightly sand the steels and see if that solves the issue.

Red is a iron based item the black is a carbon based .

Badger Mike · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2016, 03:36:35 PM »

Thanks, I'll give them a call. I'm outside of a year, but maybe they'll work with me.

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2016, 04:25:36 PM »

Ask for Chance.. So to be clear red is a iron based black carbon and green Kevlar . Now I spoke with Mike the owner of Barnett about this.. I asked about the difference in friction coefficient, Mike told me that no there is not one is not able to hold any more or less tq , its more so about what goes into the mix and

FlaHeatWave · « **Reply #20 on:** March 31, 2016, 11:02:16 PM »

Quote from: Badger Mike on March 31, 2016, 02:44:39 PM

I have somewhat of the opposite problem. I have a well tuned 124 (139/140)in my bike with a Barnett Scorpion clutch and 30T instead of the compensator. I need to find an oil that will keep this best from slipping (sounds like a screech) when it gets warm. Thoughts?

When does it Screech ( I call it a sqawk)? Starting off in first gear?

Badger Mike · « **Reply #21 on:** April 01, 2016, 10:35:12 AM »

It screeches in first gear after the clutch gets warm. I talked to Barnett yesterday, and they are aware of the issue with the bikes that have a lot of power. Even though mine is out of warranty, they are sending me an updated pack at no charge! Fantastic customer service on their end, I would recommend doing business with them anytime

FlaHeatWave · « **Reply #22 on:** April 01, 2016, 11:00:19 AM »

Quote from: Badger Mike on April 01, 2016, 10:35:12 AM

It screeches in first gear after the clutch gets warm. I talked to Barnett yesterday, and they are aware of the issue with the bikes that have a lot of power. Even though mine is out of warranty, they are sending me an updated pack at no charge! Fantastic customer service on their end, I would recommend doing business with them anytime

Yea, the updated pack should eliminate most, if not all of the screeching...

Did Barnett tell you what fluid / how much they wanted you to run?

+1 for Barnett customer service

Badger Mike · « **Reply #23 on:** April 01, 2016, 11:02:01 AM »

They were very ok with just about anything. I'm not sure what my mechanic is using. I would take any recommendations.

LC110 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 01, 2016, 12:37:09 PM »

32-38 oz. of this primary nectar should be all you need, since HD Formula plus is a straight 50 weight GL-1 mineral oil.

Why use an oil that is made to keep contaminants in suspension if you don't have a filter to take them out? Maybe I am over analyzing.

FlaHeatWave · « **Reply #25 on:** April 01, 2016, 04:42:00 PM »

Quote from: Badger Mike on April 01, 2016, 11:02:01 AM

They were very ok with just about anything. I'm not sure what my mechanic is using. I would take any recommendations.

Reason I asked; about a year ago my Bud (Skunk 124HC / DD7 / Scorpion / Solid Sprocket / Hayden Tensioner) was on the speaker with Barnett, trying to get the (exact same) issue resolved. Barnett did not hesitate to send another Pack, and said "a Quart of ATF nothing else", also recommended leaving out the Damper Spring / Seat ... After following the directions to a T, I asked about the Sqweeking 15k mi. later, "most all of it's gone, 'still does it once in a great while"...

Since Barnett is changing their recommendations to "just about anything" from "1 Qt of ATF" I was just curious?? Maybe Barnett has done some design / material changes??

I'm a fan of the Formula+, but I'm running a Comp, and a different set-up...

IMHO the real bogie with the Scorpion is the CVO Hydraulic Clutch, lack of adjustment, not the (higher) HP/TQ... the cable clutch folks don't talk about the sqweek much??

Keep us Posted

PS YorktownCVO, sorry about getting away from your OP... The GM at my Dealer (a real hands on type guy, not your typical GM) when asked several years ago; " I like Synthetic in the Motor and Transmission, not in the Primary"

Author Topic: Amsoil Synthetic V Twin primary oil (Read 10203 times)