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[ultrafxr]

Not talking about EITMS rear cylinder deactivation but total engine shut down when bike gets too hot.  Friend had this happen to his 2014 and I too had it happen to my 2011 when stuck in heavy traffic in very hot weather.  Lost power then totally shut down.  Had electrical and would crank but not run.  After about 10-15 minutes did restart and ran fine.  He claims it is a designed feature to shut the engine down when it gets too hot.  I've not heard this and am doubtful.  What say ye technical gurus?

[Ironhorse]

I'd say it's time to get some cylinder head cooling fans.

[grc]

If it really was a "feature", you would think it would be documented in the shop manual and owner manual.  Otherwise it would lead to a lot of wasted time and money trying to find a defect.  And let's not forget that purposely killing the engine would leave H-D wide open for lawsuits if this happened and led to injury or worse.

I don't have a late model shop manual so I'll wait for someone who does to see if this "feature" is documented.  If the bikes still used main circuit breakers I might consider the idea that the breaker overheated and kicked out, then reset itself once it cooled.  That was known to happen with main circuit breakers on Harley's back in the day.  I remember from my ancient past an issue with automotive electronic ignitions in Fords that would do what you described, kill the engine when the module became hot and then go back to working when the module cooled off.  It wasn't a feature, it was a defective module with micro cracks in the circuit board that would open up when hot.  When a dealership would ask me to help them with a car that was stalling when hot, I'd take an iced drink with me on the test ride.  When the car stalled and died, I'd open the hood and pour cold liquid on the module.  If it fired up, we had our culprit.

Jerry

[WTF Chuck]

I had a crank sensor on a 2000 softail that would let me run the bike about 20 to 30 min at a time very consistent
it would shut down I would have to wait 5 mins and start back up 3 different shops replaced ECM Main breaker a few other parts while out on a trip could not fix it not throwing any codes. Well I rode it that way back to Maggie Valley for 2 1/2 days 20 mins at a time. I thought about a friend of mine who is very smart mechanic back home gave him a call he says run over to Waynesville pick up a crank sensor and put it in end of story.

[ultrafxr]

If it really was a "feature", you would think it would be documented in the shop manual and owner manual.  Otherwise it would lead to a lot of wasted time and money trying to find a defect.  And let's not forget that purposely killing the engine would leave H-D wide open for lawsuits if this happened and led to injury or worse.

I don't have a late model shop manual so I'll wait for someone who does to see if this "feature" is documented.  If the bikes still used main circuit breakers I might consider the idea that the breaker overheated and kicked out, then reset itself once it cooled.  That was known to happen with main circuit breakers on Harley's back in the day.  I remember from my ancient past an issue with automotive electronic ignitions in Fords that would do what you described, kill the engine when the module became hot and then go back to working when the module cooled off.  It wasn't a feature, it was a defective module with micro cracks in the circuit board that would open up when hot.  When a dealership would ask me to help them with a car that was stalling when hot, I'd take an iced drink with me on the test ride.  When the car stalled and died, I'd open the hood and pour cold liquid on the module.  If it fired up, we had our culprit.

Jerry

Totally agree with that statement Jerry which is why I call BS on this as a purposely intended event.

And I can find no mention of it in either the owner's manual or the shop manual which I have. 

Probably like you said something just got too hot and ceased to function.  Then when it cooled down it functioned again.  I did have the main breaker problem way back on my '99 Ultra and that mystified me (and the techs) for quite a while until it was made know and resolved.  And on the '99 it really didn't have to be all that hot or stuck in traffic.  Terrible feeling when you're riding with traffic around and the bike just stops with no good options to pull off.

[Threephase]

Don't they all do that?

(Typed in sarcasm font)

[CVOStreetglide]

Totally agree with that statement Jerry which is why I call BS on this as a purposely intended event.

And I can find no mention of it in either the owner's manual or the shop manual which I have. 

Probably like you said something just got too hot and ceased to function.  Then when it cooled down it functioned again.  I did have the main breaker problem way back on my '99 Ultra and that mystified me (and the techs) for quite a while until it was made know and resolved.  And on the '99 it really didn't have to be all that hot or stuck in traffic.  Terrible feeling when you're riding with traffic around and the bike just stops with no good options to pull off.

Stopping  NO BUT going into “LIMP” or parade mode is common when the motor gets hot. What happens is the front cylinder doesn’t fire and you are idling on the rear cylinder. 

I NEVER want this to occur so I shut the motor off until there is traffic movement then I fire it up
and am on my way.

[grc]

Stopping  NO BUT going into “LIMP” or parade mode is common when the motor gets hot. What happens is the front cylinder doesn’t fire and you are idling on the rear cylinder. 

I NEVER want this to occur so I shut the motor off until there is traffic movement then I fire it up
and am on my way.

You can turn the "parade mode" feature off if you want to; depending on the model year it is a very simple process.  Btw, limp mode is something different, it is invoked automatically by the ECM when the electronic throttle control experiences a fault.  The engine runs at idle just fine, but there is very limited throttle control or higher speeds.  It literally "limps" along just enough to get off the road and hopefully to a safe place to stop.

Jerry

Attachment copied from 2015 Owners Manual.

[chaos901]

Jerry:  I've had my 2010 get real hot several times, most recently on I-95 in NJ, NY due to wrecks and stopped traffic.  Never had it shutdown.  Only ever went into "limp mode" at a different time out west because of the connector issue at the IAC.  This as a design feature would be hard to believe for the reasons stated above.     

[bakon]

Never had one shut off. But did have 2010&2014 which both wouldn't start after too hot. City traffic. Wait 10 minutes and start right up. No codes. Both would crank, just not fire. Extremely hot on both situations.