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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin’ Eagle® Dyna® Fat Bob => Topic started by: TonyV on July 20, 2012, 01:40:36 PM
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Has anyone installed this kit in their FXDFSE ? If so, did you have good results ?
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What parts are in the ProKit? There was not a part number.
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Just an educated guess...but, I would bet my pension check that there are better alternatives.
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The kit includes 10.5:1 pistons and SE259 cams along with pushrods and gaskets and a clutch spring, and a SEPST.
There are other threads on the site discussing this kit, try using the search feature.
Jerry
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I would be leary of high HP 110 cylinders. Harley took the stock TC 88 (3.750") cylinders bored for 95 kit (3.875") These cylinders were used to make the 103" with 4 3/8"
Then the same cylinders were bored again and the cast iron sleeves are too thin causing major problems. Hence the Class Action suit againt HD. Go with Axtell and bore the cases. their 4" cylinders have much thicker walls. A better product. They use gaskets not oring cylnder base seal.
Ltank
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The kit includes 10.5:1 pistons and SE259 cams along with pushrods and gaskets and a clutch spring, and a SEPST.
There are other threads on the site discussing this kit, try using the search feature.
Jerry
Didn't the Moco advertise the stock 110 motor as producing about the same torque? :nixweiss:
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Didn't the Moco advertise the stock 110 motor as producing about the same torque? :nixweiss:
The MoCo lists the torque at the crankshaft in the specs for the bikes. The numbers in the catalog for the various kits are rear wheel numbers, which of course are significantly lower.
Jerry
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Thanks Jerry :2vrolijk_21:
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Didn't the Moco advertise the stock 110 motor as producing about the same torque? :nixweiss:
Yea, at the crankshaft. Who knows where they are getting those numbers in the ad above. The HP number is significantly higher though...I would assume that the cam moves everything over to the right a good bit and the high HP number is the result. Along with the higher compression, of course.
I'd spend my $1300 + in a different way if I was compelled to change the motor.
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How would you spend the $1300?
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How would you spend the $1300?
On the motor? I'd just select a different cam, upgrade/replace the lifters, better cam bearings, and if needed, some slight headwork and/or a .30 head gasket. Then a tune, of course. I am no expert at engine mods, but I do feel comfortable in saying that there are better alternatives than any "kit" HD sells.
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The 259 is not a good cam for the 110? What cam would you think is better with the headwork your suggestion?thanks mike
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The 259 is not a good cam for the 110? What cam would you think is better with the headwork your suggestion?thanks mike
From my understanding, the 259 cam makes most of it's HP/TQ a bit later in the curve, so for ME, it would not be a good selection, as I prefer the TQ down low and could care less about what happens after about 4500 RPM. Be mindful of the fact that I am happy with the stock engine with exhaust and a tuner. The 255 cam that comes in the stock motor performs well in the RPM ranges I like to ride in. I do wind it up on occasion, so I don't just putt around, but in riding the twisties and such, TQ in the 2500-4500 RPM range is more important to me. If I raced people, it would be a different story. I spend my money on what's important to me, which is handling, so after doing the exhaust/tuner, I immediately upgrade the suspension. IMO, all the HP/TQ in the world is worthless if you can't put it on the ground in the conditions you ride in. I like riding curvey roads whenever possible. That gives me a thrill, so I want the bike to be predictable and the power to be such that I can throttle on halfway through the turn and have the TQ to move a 900 lb bike on to the next one.
Telling someone what cam and headwork (if any) to do is like telling them what religion to choose. There are many good cams out there today that will do a great job, either with just a cam swap (and related components), or a combination of cams/head gasket, or cams, head gasket, head work. It all depends on what you're after and how much you want to spend to get there. Some that come to mind are the Andrews cams, Woods, T-Man, and Redshift. All of those make cams that will work well with the above. There are several good vendors on this site that can recommend combinations. I am of the opinion that when one starts radically changing the HP/TQ by upping the CID, changing pistons/compression, high lift cams, etc. that there are other things that must be done to the bottom end of the motor to make it rock solid reliable. Milder cams and slight compression changes are OK, but much beyond that requires crank work. Again, that is my opinion because I want as much reliability as I can get in the motor. The weak link(s) in the 110 seems to be lifter/crankshaft related, from my reading here about failures.
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Thanks for your thoughs Midnight Rider.
Just putting the feeler's out to get some opinions, facts\ past experience on cam replacement, etc.
I was looking for a little more low end grunt to keep those stroked out 96's at bay off the line !