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[BigLew]

Well cranked the bike yesterday while in gear (usually dont do that) now it sounds like the compensator is shot. Got about 3,000 miles on the new S&S 124 with the procharger. I guessing it needs replacing. Any builders out there have any suggestions on how to resolve this issue? The newest SE part doesnt hold up very well.

2nd question the 09 SERG has this hydro clutch leaver instead of the cable (09 SERG). There doesnt appear to be an adjustment on where the clutch release point is. The bike has a BARNETT (I think) clutch. Does this mean its time for a new clutch as well? If so what is the best option? Road Glide is at 198hp/164TQ.

BigLew

[SmokeyJoe]

Don't know the answers, but dag gone that's a lot of ponies!

[Unbalanced]

Have you checked the Derby cover side to check that the set screw is set correctly for the clutch?   

[Jswerve]

My God lol

[BigLew]

Have you checked the Derby cover side to check that the set screw is set correctly for the clutch?

No I haven't.

[08glide]

hydro clutches don't have the same adjustments as cable & so they have a different feel for the friction zone. good advice is to always put the trans in neutral before starting. I've seen people do this while in gear & see the bike move forward as it starts.

[hd-dude]

 

Have you checked the Derby cover side to check that the set screw is set correctly for the clutch?

There is no set screw for the hydro clutches. They are fixed length shaft on a bearing.

[Unbalanced]

Sorry thought the Barnett did based on the picture and set screw. 

[BigLew]

I think I'm confused more now than I was.

BigLew

[grc]

I think I'm confused more now than I was.

BigLew

Me too.  What exactly is the problem with the clutch that you're trying to "adjust" out?  Is this a new clutch installation or have you been running it for awhile?  Is the problem a new one or has it always been that way since you installed the clutch?  Are you running the stock Harley master cylinder and actuator, or an aftermarket setup?

The Harley hydraulic clutch, as is the case with any of the hydraulic clutches I've ever seen, does not have any adjustments.  It's just like your hydraulic brakes; there is no manual adjustment and the adjustment is automatic as the pads or the clutch plates wear.  The point of engagement is built in to the system, and short of butchering the lever or M/C you can't adjust it.  If it has recently changed, then you either have a hydraulic problem like air in the system or a bypassing M/C or actuator, or an internal clutch issue.

Jerry

[BigLew]

Thanks Jerry I'm not sure how old the set up is but I have been running it over a year. Just put a new 124 in the bike back in Oct. Clutch seems to hold good and I would know if it was slipping with all the TQ and HP. But a few things have changed recently. I had the shop replace the fluid and bleed the system. It has always released right at the point where the lever is all the way out but worse now. Just squeeze the lever a fraction and clutch is engaged. Not liking that, plus finding neutral when it cool is easy, but once the bike warms up its very difficult. It also feels like when I'm stopping in first that the bike is still pulling even when the clutch is fully engaged. Not enough to pull the RPMs down just feels wierd. The local guys at the MOTCO shop say that the clutch might need replacing but I'm not so sure. I would think if that was the issue it would be slipping. I did read something on the board about fluid level (hydro) controlling where the engage/disengage point would be on the lever. Is that true? How about the difference in finding neutral depending if the bike is hot or cold. How about the level in the gear box? Thanks for your input.

BigLew

BigLew

[grc]

If the clutch is disengaging as soon as you start to pull the lever, but also dragging when you pull the lever in completely to the bar, I think you've got more than a simple hydraulic problem.

First thing to check is the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.  Too much fluid will keep the actuator from being able to retract completely, and could lead to the early disengagement.  Then check the primary lubricant level.  Excessive oil can cause clutch drag, which in turn can make finding neutral harder.  You don't want the primary fluid any higher than just barely touching the bottom of the clutch when cold, and you don't want the clutch hydraulic fluid any higher than the full line in the reservoir.  The level increases as the clutch plates wear, just the opposite of how the brake system works.

You can measure the amount of travel of the release rod to verify the M/C and actuator are working as designed.  The absolute minimum travel is 1.65mm (0.065"), and ideally you should have more than that.

Jerry

[sadunbar]

If the clutch is disengaging as soon as you start to pull the lever, but also dragging when you pull the lever in completely to the bar, I think you've got more than a simple hydraulic problem.

First thing to check is the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.  Too much fluid will keep the actuator from being able to retract completely, and could lead to the early disengagement.  Then check the primary lubricant level.  Excessive oil can cause clutch drag, which in turn can make finding neutral harder.  You don't want the primary fluid any higher than just barely touching the bottom of the clutch when cold, and you don't want the clutch hydraulic fluid any higher than the full line in the reservoir. The level increases as the clutch plates wear, just the opposite of how the brake system works.

You can measure the amount of travel of the release rod to verify the M/C and actuator are working as designed.  The absolute minimum travel is 1.65mm (0.065"), and ideally you should have more than that.

Jerry

When you check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder, the bike needs to be upright (not leaned on the kickstand) and the handlebars need to be turned all the way to the right.  There is a hydraulic fluid level indicator cast into the master cylinder reservoir.   If your shop just replaced your fluid, I'd probably check this first on the list Jerry provided to you.  It's an easy check and an easy fix if you find it overfilled.