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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: SmokeEm on October 30, 2021, 04:44:21 PM
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I'm working on the logistics of getting my basically still new 2017 Harley-Davidson CVO Pro-Street Breakout (FXSE) with only 982 miles on the odometer up to one of the best shops in the business, D.C. Cycle & Racing in Red Bay, Alabama, to have some upgrades done. I spoke with Bobby Wood at Wood Performance a while back and with all the b.s. delays due to the plandemic, thanks demonrats, all the parts have finally come in and they're going to start work on it as soon as I can get it up to them and get in the queue as they are busy.
Parts to be installed:
Wood Performance TW-777 Camshafts
Wood Performance WADL-8012 Knight Prowler Alpha Series Directional Roller Lifters
Screamin' Eagle Part Number 17900032 Premium Tapered Quick-Install Adjustable Pushrods w/Gloss Black Covers
Feuling #8015 High Flow Camplate
Feuling #7062 Race Series Oil Pump
Feuling #8077 Hydraulic Cam Tensioner Kit, Inner & Outer
Feuling #2070 Quick Change Cam Installation Kit (Includes #2050, #2077 and #3042)
Feuling #8041 Camshaft/Sprocket Thrust Washer Alignment Kit
Feuling #8020 Camplate/Oil Pump Fastner Kit
Feuling #3042 ARP 12 Point Cam & Pinion Bolt Fastner Kit
I already had the absolute best exhaust system on the planet from the fine folks at Bassani Xhaust, Part Number 1S33DB (Pro-Street Turn Out Exhaust System for Softail Breakout) and we're using a TTS MasterTune II tuner to get it all dialed in on the dynamometer.
Definitely can't wait for the finished product, which according to Bobby Wood, should be a beast. We shall soon see.
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I like your selection of components. That cam will wake your bike up big time! Please post a dyno sheet of your final result.
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I am sure your bike will run well assuming it is tuned properly. You have purchased everything on the list I assume.
For the benefit of others considering a stage 2 cam change none of the stock oiling system on the twin cam needs to be replaced nor will this add any horsepower or longevity. I am assuming the oiling system is in good condition and crank runout is not above .006". Improved lifters are welcome, I use slow bleed Morels. The larger capacity oil pumps actually must be run with a very true flywheel set, and many are not.
If I was going to spend a little improving the twin cam oiling system I would add a +1 oil pan so the oil has more time to de-aerate the oil in the sump, add a baisley relief valve plunger, and their lowest pressure spring. Next step up from there would be a 3 stage oil pump so the crankcase and cam cavity will be individually scavenged, S&S or Thayer. The CVO110 heads continue to have issues with exhaust valves sticking because of oil carbonizing up the stems and the guides are loo long at the bottom so the carbon sticks the valves approaching the tulip. This won't be a problem for the occasional riders. It takes some miles to happen. When they start to stick they run weird at times and get noisy at times. The fix is a valve job and new bronze manganese properly fitted guides and improved seals. At the same time change the springs. Assumption is the valves have not kissed a piston. These stuck valves along with stout spring pressure are also sudden death for lifter rollers.
Just my 2c based on tearing down these heads and what I have observed for 14 years and owning a 2013 CVO110 RK which is stage 2 only.
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I'd skip all of the Fueling stuff and get the heads done! I agree with Son , it ain't gonna make it run any better! With that many miles on your stock parts it'll be fine. Just my 2cents. It's your $$$$. Good luck with it thou
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Also you need to add compression to truly get everything out of that cam. I would get the heads done, including springs and valve guides, and have them shave them a little to get into the low 10s on compression. The experienced builders here can give you some guidance, but I would have thought somewhere around 10.4 is a good spot for that cam.
Have you thought of boring out the jugs and getting to 113" displacement? That with a little more compression will make this into a solid performer.
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:2vrolijk_20: :2vrolijk_20:
Money spent much more wisely
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I like your selection of components. That cam will wake your bike up big time! Please post a dyno sheet of your final result.
Thank you.
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I am sure your bike will run well assuming it is tuned properly. You have purchased everything on the list I assume.
For the benefit of others considering a stage 2 cam change none of the stock oiling system on the twin cam needs to be replaced nor will this add any horsepower or longevity. I am assuming the oiling system is in good condition and crank runout is not above .006". Improved lifters are welcome, I use slow bleed Morels. The larger capacity oil pumps actually must be run with a very true flywheel set, and many are not.
If I was going to spend a little improving the twin cam oiling system I would add a +1 oil pan so the oil has more time to de-aerate the oil in the sump, add a baisley relief valve plunger, and their lowest pressure spring. Next step up from there would be a 3 stage oil pump so the crankcase and cam cavity will be individually scavenged, S&S or Thayer. The CVO110 heads continue to have issues with exhaust valves sticking because of oil carbonizing up the stems and the guides are loo long at the bottom so the carbon sticks the valves approaching the tulip. This won't be a problem for the occasional riders. It takes some miles to happen. When they start to stick they run weird at times and get noisy at times. The fix is a valve job and new bronze manganese properly fitted guides and improved seals. At the same time change the springs. Assumption is the valves have not kissed a piston. These stuck valves along with stout spring pressure are also sudden death for lifter rollers.
Just my 2c based on tearing down these heads and what I have observed for 14 years and owning a 2013 CVO110 RK which is stage 2 only.
Softails do not have oil pans and the motorcycle is basically brand new, only 173 miles on the odometer when I purchased it and only had 982 miles on it when I dropped her off. As for as the cylinder heads and compression go, that'll be done down the road depending on just how well she performs. Bob "The Horsepower King" Wood says it should be perfect for the type of riding I do and I definitely agree that these engines lack compression, but that being said, Bob doesn't recommend going over 10.5:1 for a reliable street rod, so we shall see.
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Well, I'm sorry for the delay in bringing this post to the finish line, but I've had to deal with the logistics of getting the motorcycle there and back (FL-AL-FL) and I had to undergo surgery just 8 weeks ago to replace my other hip, the physical therapy that that entails and I'm still not 100%, but the good news is that I did get to ride the bike a few times before surgery and all I can say is WOW!, what an amazing difference. The fine folks at D.C. Cycle & Racing in Red Bay, Alabama are amazing and exceeded my expectations. I cannot say enough good things about them and especially David Crane, the owner, what an incredibly good man.
So... :drummer: here's the dyno results. :bananarock:
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the Dyno sheet says "mild headwork" Can you tell us what headwork was done?
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Thanks for posting your Dyno sheet. That engine is dialed! I see that was a 6th gear pull. That bike should do 12.0 in the quarter (at sea level) with ease. I assume you are using stock valve springs since you didn't list anything in your parts list. I love it. Go out and shred that tire.
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DC is about 2 hours from home for me and you’re right David is a good dude. Tuned my bike as well as my brothers and got em both dialed in to perfection.