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[Laker]

I have the Rineharts, Stage 1, and SERT. Dyno said 97HP and 100TQ. Very happy with numbers, sound and look.

[hd-dude]

Dude,
I had mine done at Cycle Center of Fremont (H-D dealership). They've really turned their service dept. around the past 6-8 months, and will be expanding their service bays and floorspace early 2006. Tried to attache the files but their too large for this site. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send them to you in .pdf or JPEG.

Joe

Posting the Dyno Sheet for CVOJoe

[CVOJOE]

Thanks Jim,
They do things a bit differently there in that they graph cyl 1 & 2 separately and there is a difference between the two numbers, but nothing significant.
SERT is the way to go, just wish they'd get the price down on the kit so that more would be willing to get it.  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[HDJamsTX]

Would someone using the Rineharts do me a favor and look at your bike and tell me if the Exhaust Mount that bolts to the bottom of the transmission is chrome or is it just plain steel? Thanks...

[spydglide]

HDJamsTX, it's NOT chrome, and I actually went out and double-checked.  Har!  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]spyder

[Unbalanced]

CVOJoe,

To get a better comparison you should ask them to print out the dyno sheet in SAE or STD Form.   Obviously SAE will be the lowest, but to give you a comparision to a completely uncorrected really gives you no baseline since it will depend a lot on the day / the temp / the humidity, the altitude etc etc.

[SPIDERMAN]

 I just picked up on this thread today so 'scuse me coming in on this late.Here we go again with Dyno numbers. I am asking myself, how it is that I've owned two 03 SERKs and with both of them I had SAE corrected Dyno numbers of 95/96 ftlbs and 91/92 hp. Seems everywhere I look on this CVO website people are claiming triple digit numbers. What gives ?  I tried changing cams on my first SERK and it was a disaster. The factory says you can't change cams on a factory 103 without head mods basically stating that the SE 103 motor is a hipbone connected to the thigh bone configuration. The guy I spoke to at the MoCo told me you're better off starting with an 88" motor if you want a monster 103. That way you can go with the CNC heads, big cams etc.  What are those of you claiming triple digit numbers running ? Also has anyone done a 113" upgrade yet?  

[hd-dude]

I just picked up on this thread today so 'scuse me coming in on this late.Here we go again with Dyno numbers. I am asking myself, how it is that I've owned two 03 SERKs and with both of them I had SAE corrected Dyno numbers of 95/96 ftlbs and 91/92 hp. Seems everywhere I look on this CVO website people are claiming triple digit numbers. What gives ?  I tried changing cams on my first SERK and it was a disaster. The factory says you can't change cams on a factory 103 without head mods basically stating that the SE 103 motor is a hipbone connected to the thigh bone configuration. The guy I spoke to at the MoCo told me you're better off starting with an 88" motor if you want a monster 103. That way you can go with the CNC heads, big cams etc.  What are those of you claiming triple digit numbers running ? Also has anyone done a 113" upgrade yet?  

Check out the Dyno #'s thread, There's 30 pages of info on mods and configs. Yes most are getting numbers at or above the 100's with just pipes/AC/ and a PC or race tuner.

[JCZ]

I just picked up on this thread today so 'scuse me coming in on this late.Here we go again with Dyno numbers. I am asking myself, how it is that I've owned two 03 SERKs and with both of them I had SAE corrected Dyno numbers of 95/96 ftlbs and 91/92 hp. Seems everywhere I look on this CVO website people are claiming triple digit numbers. What gives ?  I tried changing cams on my first SERK and it was a disaster. The factory says you can't change cams on a factory 103 without head mods basically stating that the SE 103 motor is a hipbone connected to the thigh bone configuration. The guy I spoke to at the MoCo told me you're better off starting with an 88" motor if you want a monster 103. That way you can go with the CNC heads, big cams etc.  What are those of you claiming triple digit numbers running ? Also has anyone done a 113" upgrade yet?  

I'm going to suggest that you look for a "performance" tuner to dial your bike in.  If you have the Race Tuner then look for a tuner that has a lot of experince with the Race Tuner........if your'e using the Power Commander III then find a tuner that has a lot of experience in that area......but find a real "tuner" not somebody who is going to throw your bike up there and load a canned map in there and say that he dyno tuned it..........that's not dyno tuning.

[MYCVO]

Jumping in on this myself, Seeing as Freedom cycle seems to be a rightous spot for a tuner,and thats a little bit out of my way to go. Does anyone have a clue around east coast area who does a good dyno tune ??

[SPIDERMAN]

JCZ  Thanks for the advice on finding another tuner and I agree with what you're saying but I spoke to Carl Morrow from Carl's Speed Shop on this subject once and he basically told me dyno tuning is in large part a factor of what you're tuning the bike to do. Race tuning does not lend itself to realiability and longevity in a motor. I'll stick with where I am for now.The motor is solid and pulls strong from just above idle all the way to about 6200.  On another front however, I have been thinking of the new 113 set-up. Do you know anything about what's involved?  Looking at what's available from the MoCo, it seems you need new heads and obviously cams as well as the jugs and pistons. What about the new 50mm EFI unit ? Also, with bumped up compression do you need high tensile studs, stronger rocker arm supports, big roller lifters ? And here's something I know will start a debate; are roller rockers necessary ? Are they really worth the cost?

[Unbalanced]

[highlight] I have been thinking of the new 113 set-up. Do you know anything about what's involved?  Looking at what's available from the MoCo, it seems you need new heads and obviously cams as well as the jugs and pistons. What about the new 50mm EFI unit ? Also, with bumped up compression do you need high tensile studs, stronger rocker arm supports, big roller lifters ? And here's something I know will start a debate; are roller rockers necessary ? Are they really worth the cost? [highlight][/highlight]

Spyder,

You must have the cases milled to accept these larger juggs, you should look at an aftermarket throttle body like Zippers or Horsepower inc 50, 51 mm throttle bodies as these have cruisecontrol on them the HD does not.

With the larger pistons/juggs you will want roller rockers, new lifters.   I would look into a schim for the oil pump and possibly changing to a high flow oil pump like fueling.   I have not heard you "The recommendation for new heads come froms the fact that on the CVO bikes we have Hemi shapped heads and not dome shaped"   The pistons in the kit are for dome shaped.   YOu could have your stock heads welded up and redone if you wanted stock effect.

The juggs are currently back ordered last time i was at harley.   If your having to have the cases milled you might as well also do the timken bearing.

Is it worth it .... Depends on where your at if your at 94/98 and you want more like 120/120 - 130 / 130 depending on how radical you want to get.   Although one knows they can get to 118/115 for the cost of heads / cam  / tuning using stock cast piston.   Have to decide how much you want to spend and is this much enough or do you need more and do you want to pay for more and possibly give up reliability.    

Hope this helps Spyder

[SPIDERMAN]

Thanks Unbalanced.   All that adds up to well over 5k with labor and machine work and you know milling out the spigots has never thrilled me. I went with a set of Sputh cases back in 93 to build a 96" EVO rather than bore out the stockers. (remember the days when no one was selling complete motors) OK, so rather than go through all that, Do you know how much the Jim's 120 CI race engine listed in the Screamin Eagle catalogue is going for ? I can change out a motor myself, I just don't build em.

[Unbalanced]

Spider,

Are you after a fuel injected motor or a carb'd motor setup.   You realize the Jims that Harley sells is for Carb only.

I think Harley gets like 6200 for their Jim's 120.   I believe if you shop you can find it around 5500 or less.   Let me know what your after via an email at unbalanced@bellsouth.net and I will point you at some people to talk to for a motor.

-harry

[HUBBARD]

JCZ  Thanks for the advice on finding another tuner and I agree with what you're saying but I spoke to Carl Morrow from Carl's Speed Shop on this subject once and he basically told me dyno tuning is in large part a factor of what you're tuning the bike to do. Race tuning does not lend itself to realiability and longevity in a motor. I'll stick with where I am for now.The motor is solid and pulls strong from just above idle all the way to about 6200.  On another front however, I have been thinking of the new 113 set-up. Do you know anything about what's involved?  Looking at what's available from the MoCo, it seems you need new heads and obviously cams as well as the jugs and pistons. What about the new 50mm EFI unit ? Also, with bumped up compression do you need high tensile studs, stronger rocker arm supports, big roller lifters ? And here's something I know will start a debate; [highlight]are roller rockers necessary ? [/highlight]Are they really worth the cost?

Yeah, 'er 'uh, SPIDERMAN,
  Roller Rockers are a waste of money, unless the cam, or cams, have at least .600" lift.  Roller Rockers bring a little more noise to the party, too.  Later--HUBBARD