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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: Yellow09SERG on March 11, 2017, 03:50:37 PM
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Done a search with really no results and this question may be like motor oil or cam selection. What is the most common method for heat cycles? 117 drop in kit. I have seen everything from 30 sec to 4 minutes adding 30 sec at a time to start run for a minute let cool and take off. Not a builder so what works?
David
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Sorry if I appear to be a "dumbass" ........but what's a "heat cycle" :nixweiss:? Some sort of dyno tuning run ?????
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David,
Some recommendations from S&S;
https://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/tech-tips/new-engine-installation
Sounds like you're gettin' close :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:
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Sorry if I appear to be a "dumbass" ........but what's a "heat cycle" :nixweiss:? Some sort of dyno tuning run ?????
Basically it is the process of breaking in new unused cylinders through a process of heating and cooling
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Ed,
Bike is together. I had planned on having it together last weekend didn't have the torque adapters I needed for the rocker and then work has been a late every night this week. Finished it and loaded a base tune from Steve Cole this morning. Still waiting on mufflers to get here, but am betting come morning I will slip the Rineharts on it so I can get heat cycles completed. Thank you for the link. I am betting if that process works for S&S it will be plenty good for me.
Weather in Fl allowing plenty of riding?
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Ed,
Bike is together. I had planned on having it together last weekend didn't have the torque adapters I needed for the rocker and then work has been a late every night this week. Finished it and loaded a base tune from Steve Cole this morning. Still waiting on mufflers to get here, but am betting come morning I will slip the Rineharts on it so I can get heat cycles completed. Thank you for the link. I am betting if that process works for S&S it will be plenty good for me.
Weather in Fl allowing plenty of riding?
Everyone I know uses the S&S process...
Mostly in the 70s and sunny :2vrolijk_21: 'gotta love it :bananarock:
Except for rolling out for Daytona this AM,,, 53 and Rain,,, :nervous: :'(
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As few heat cycles as possible. First a minute, then three. Keep the rpms up to 1500 steady. No throttle blipping. Normal motor, no leaks or strange sounds, you're ready for the dyno. If done on the street be sure the tune is close and the motor is warmed up before getting on it.
Hastings, HD ring source, suggests this. Roll-ons not high rpm stuff. Load and unload the rings and they seat quick.
https://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTips/breakin_procedure.htm
Just the way I do things not essential YMMV, the hone pattern and RA will determine more so ask the machinist that bores your parts for recommendations.
I use a break-in oil like Joe Gibbs or Maxima Maxum. Straight 30 is fine. This is NOT for the ZDDP, that is a car lifter deal, but for the lack of friction modifying polymers. Pull it out and change filter after 50 miles of load and unloading the rings. Motor is broken in now or it will never be broken in. I also use Total Seal dry lube on the cylinders and their assembly lube very sparingly on the skirts and entrance to the bore, and a drop only in each ring groove.
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Thanks Don.
Started it up and let it run through a couple heat cycles. No strange noises, but don't believe that the installed tune is even close. Should have new mufflers here by next weekend so it's pushed to the corner till then. Good thing it is low 40's here today or it might have been more difficult to set her to the side
Thanks to all who have walked me through this process
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Mototune eh.
Well more efi motors have been ruined using this guy's suggestions than you want to know. Guys hit the road with less than a decent tune and a cold motor and in a few miles the damage is done.
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This is a very controversial topic !!
haha,,first thing that hit your eyes on that page
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I usually stay out of these threads because I'm with mototune on the ring seating procedure. All of my new bikes get trailered home, not ridden, and go straight into the dyno room. I watch temps very closely and start very short full throttle pulls immediately. By 20 miles it's game on, break in is over, full throttle pulls in 6th. Similar procedure on new performance builds where the fuel map is way off. No street riding whatsoever, straight into the dyno room. Very critical to keep temps low and address the tune immediately. I go straight to Vtune and start touching up the AFR. You can not over heat it or run it lean right after birth. But you must slap its ass right out of the gate to seat the rings. The recent 113 Junkyard Dog build was idled for 5 minutes with a few throttle blips and pushed straight into the dyno room for a tune while monitoring the vitals in a controlled environment. As mentioned, a whole bunch of builds have been ruined by improper break in. The old "go ride it easy for 500 miles" and bring it back for a tune is amateur hour and very risky at best.
Steve@fullsac.com
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Good info there.
Loading and unloading the rings with a proper afr and controlled heat, all good
Winging the motor as told by the motoman not so good.
Look at hastings recommend procedure, they are oem to harley.
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we break every bike in on the drum . Use of the dyno in my opinion is the best method . I did some testing years ago now . CCP and leak down brand new un fired engine. then again after heat cycles and then again at 10 miles and at 15 . By 15 CCP was up and leak down % under 5 %
I keep load under 70 KPA and under 3500 for the first section and I am tuning in that same process.
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we break every bike in on the drum . Use of the dyno in my opinion is the best method . I did some testing years ago now . CCP and leak down brand new un fired engine. then again after heat cycles and then again at 10 miles and at 15 . By 15 CCP was up and leak down % under 5 %
I keep load under 70 KPA and under 3500 for the first section and I am tuning in that same process.
Steve how much of an increase do you see in the CCP as it breaks in?
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I had my bike stage 1 and dyno tuned before I picked it up and I have to say, it runs stronger and smoother then any bike I have owned. I didn't think much about it, but I bet this is part of why it euns so well. It pulled 100 hp and 111 TQ. Not bad for dyno and exhaust only.