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[Twolanerider]

What's next?

Truth be told really nothing.  And that's ok with me. 

Guess that's not entirely true.  For Christmas got a set of tour pak and saddlebag LED lights for it.  They've yet to go on.  Scored a king tour pak on eBay in the right color a couple weeks ago.  Once the lock hardware and rack get here it all has to be assembled.  And sometime I need to change the throttle/idle cables.  The old throttle cable is fine as it is.  But it's stretched a bit over the years and has zero adjustment left.  But that's it.

[Twolanerider]

I can only hope for those kind numbers, It sounds like you got just what you wanted, hope the old classic takes you many miles.

I just put Dave Mackie 510's in my old classic, now in a week or so off the Goldens we go.

mikey

I'm very pleased with what those same cams did here.  A highway bike needs to come in early and keep pulling.  That's exactly what they did here.

I mentioned to John and Sandy today that you might be up sometime sooner rather than later so they kept tabs on my map to use as a baseline to get you started.  I didn't remember if you'd changed throttle body or not also but either way it should save you quite a bit of time getting the bike dialed in.

Be sure and let me know when you're coming.  We'll meet up someplace as you come in to town and I'll lead you to John's place.

[SBB]

Truth be told really nothing.  And that's ok with me. 
 But that's it.

Inner fairing?
How soon we forget!

 

[Twolanerider]

Inner fairing?
How soon we forget!

 

Oh yeah, since the part isn't here I forgot about it... 

And the little handlebar mounted MP3 player that will go on at the same time.

[Twolanerider]

Little more follow up on the old red SERG.  Was a very nice day here today.  Mid to upper 60s during most of the afternoon so took advantage of the day to put a more extended run on the SERG.  To get a better feel for how it's running now.

All in all not bad at all.  Chip and I had talked before how both of ours seemed to catch their breath and start pulling well about 3200.  Now it does the same thing (but with even slightly more bite) at about 2600.  That is a huge improvement in the highway rideability and fun factor of riding the bike.  That this increased and early torque gains just a tiny bit from there and then stays in throughout almost the complete RPM range is nice. 

The bike is no hot rod.  It doesn't fly away from itself.  The red bike would still run off and leave it from anywhere on its torque curve all the way to redline.  But for what it is, what it was intended to be, and compared to how it was originally it is much much nicer to ride now.  A lot more fun.

And all that for a simple little cam job and a tiny bit of top end work. 

No signs of a drip or problem anywhere so far.  Looks like a successful little task.

[Talon]

Don, I remember when you lost those push rods, we wrote two pages as to where they might be! Man you got a lot done, making me jealous! I put on some new levers a derby cover and that's it so far this winter!!

Craig

[Twolanerider]

Don, I remember when you lost those push rods, we wrote two pages as to where they might be! Man you got a lot done, making me jealous! I put on some new levers a derby cover and that's it so far this winter!!

Craig

That was one of my dumbstick moments Craig.  Looked all over for those pushrods.  Even in places they never could have been.  Finally bought something else.  Don't remember how long later but it was awhile before I stumbled on to them.  On the parts cart, right where they should have been.  Under a rag to protect them (and hide them from me) and other parts that had been set down on top.   

All worked out though.  That's just a set of pushrods I didn't have to buy for the cam installation on this bike.  Gotta love it when a plan comes together... 

[sadunbar]

Also a hand me down from the SEEG is the billet ball milled rocker boxes.  I like these a lot.  Completed the set with the lifter blocks and matching pushrod tubes.  In combination this is to me a large improvement over the more plain stock pieces.

I installed these today - the HD ball milled lifter blocks and matching pushrod tubes...  Well - at least I installed two of the matching pushrod tubes...  The inner pushrod tubes (closest to the cylinders) do not clear the Axtell cylinders...   The combination of the larger cylinders and larger pushrod tubes run out of clearance for each other...

So I installed the ball milled lifter blocks and outer ball mill matching tubes - and left the inner tubes the plain chrome tubes...  The plain inner tubes are somewhat covered - so I think it looks o.k.   Doesn't matter - I like it and think it is an improvement...  I took a picture - but it sucks due to reflection - here it is anyway...   

[Twolanerider]

I installed these today - the HD ball milled lifter blocks and matching pushrod tubes...  Well - at least I installed two of the matching pushrod tubes...  The inner pushrod tubes (closest to the cylinders) do not clear the Axtell cylinders...   The combination of the larger cylinders and larger pushrod tubes run out of clearance for each other...

So I installed the ball milled lifter blocks and outer ball mill matching tubes - and left the inner tubes the plain chrome tubes...  The plain inner tubes are somewhat covered - so I think it looks o.k.   Doesn't matter - I like it and think it is an improvement...  I took a picture - but it sucks due to reflection - here it is anyway...   

Scott, I ran in to exactly the same thing during the work on the red bike.  When the 107" reassembly was being done to the SEEG.  I got mine on though.  Just took a bit of insistence that they go.

Those billet pushrod tubes are very thick.  Thick enough you can take them to the bench grinder and flatten the backside such that they can be used with the Axtell cylinders.  Just looked and this was the only picture I found from that part of the reassembly.  Might have been grumpy enough at that point that wasn't diligent in the documentation as pretty sure I remember the final work requiring a little more vertical length and a bit more depth at the base.  When done though there was plent of meat left in the tube. 

[Twolanerider]

It also was not necessary to bring the flat spot far enough around the circumference that it was noticable from the front.  I took it down enough to to allow .030" feeler gauge to very easily slide between the two to allow expansion of the aluminum cylinders and pushrod tubes.  Even with that much removal the material you need to work is narrow enough on the back that you don't see it from the front.

[sadunbar]

Scott, I ran in to exactly the same thing during the work on the red bike.  When the 107" reassembly was being done to the SEEG.  I got mine on though.  Just took a bit of insistence that they go.

Those billet pushrod tubes are very thick.  Thick enough you can take them to the bench grinder and flatten the backside such that they can be used with the Axtell cylinders.  Just looked and this was the only picture I found from that part of the reassembly.  Might have been grumpy enough at that point that wasn't diligent in the documentation as pretty sure I remember the final work requiring a little more vertical length and a bit more depth at the base.  When done though there was plent of meat left in the tube. 

I thought of trying that, Don...  They were close to fitting - but just not close enough...  Now that I see you were able to grind enough clearance, I may have to give it a try...  Thanks for the heads up!  

[Twolanerider]

I thought of trying that, Don...  They were close to fitting - but just not close enough...  Now that I see you were able to grind enough clearance, I may have to give it a try...  Thanks for the heads up!  

They will go on Scott.  And do so without negatively impacting the look from front while still leaving adequate clearance between the cylinder and tubes.

I remember vividly the evening I stumbled in to the same thing.  Had one of those "What the phuk?" moments of lack of clarity.  A second look makes it obvious what the deal is though.  Both parts are fatter... 

It's just one of those "no one's fault" things you fight through when parts from several sources are all brought together.  No one can match against everything.  So if we want to use them we make them work.  If memory serves me correctly I spent an extra hour that night and seven or eight trips back and forth to the bench grinder getting them where I wanted them. 

Didn't want to take off too much of course.  So was grinding and looking and grinding and looking.  When the base cleared still had to walk the flat spot up a little higher to get good clearance from top to bottom.  Ended up working from about the mid point of the tube's length to just short of the base.  No sealing surfaces are even close to impacted and there is still plenty of meat left in the tube.  Once the first one was just right the second one took another ten minutes.

[sadunbar]

They will go on Scott.  And do so without negatively impacting the look from front while still leaving adequate clearance between the cylinder and tubes.

I remember vividly the evening I stumbled in to the same thing.  Had one of those "What the phuk?" moments of lack of clarity.  A second look makes it obvious what the deal is though.  Both parts are fatter... 

It's just one of those "no one's fault" things you fight through when parts from several sources are all brought together.  No one can match against everything.  So if we want to use them we make them work.  If memory serves me correctly I spent an extra hour that night and seven or eight trips back and forth to the bench grinder getting them where I wanted them. 

Didn't want to take off too much of course.  So was grinding and looking and grinding and looking.  When the base cleared still had to walk the flat spot up a little higher to get good clearance from top to bottom.  Ended up working from about the mid point of the tube's length to just short of the base.  No sealing surfaces are even close to impacted and there is still plenty of meat left in the tube.  Once the first one was just right the second one took another ten minutes.

They are a great addition...  The tubes and especially the lifter blocks.  The stock lifter blocks are pretty fugly! 

[Twolanerider]

Just sat and looked at that photo for a moment Scott.  Was surprised by how much don't notice the difference.  Knowing the difference is there you obviously recognize it.  But it's not glaring.  The different heights of the spring caps in the center is mitigated by the angle of the tubes.  The front tubes hide the lack of ball mill in the rear tubes.  The upper tube on the old one looks a bit different.  But if you'd not been told they were there most folks would likely never notice the difference or realize it wasn't supposed to be that way.  Maybe what you've really got going for you is just a pair of outer tubes ?

[Twolanerider]

They are a great addition...  The tubes and especially the lifter blocks.  The stock lifter blocks are pretty fugly! 

I agree that the lifter blocks are the most eye catching part of the pair.  With the TP boxes the pushrod tubes don't have to carry the visual continuity that they need to wth the HD ball milled rocker boxes.  It looks good as it sets there.  All buttoned up and running I'd think twice about tearing it down again just to make the change.  Especially with the extra effort required managing the pushrods because of those TP rocker assemblies.