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[2018_FLTRXSE]

Think you'll like the Supermeg .

FYI... even with the 16 plates.. it's too damn quiet... But since I have 40% loss in my right ear and 25% in my left that might be why.

I may opt for the open cap just to see if I like it better.

For the sake of service it's a huge improvement over the stock monster.

When I opened the cam chest everything looked kosher, even the shoes so I left it alone... For now... Since lifter blocks pushrod tubes rocker box covers and the rest of the chrome are in need of love too.

After I address the fuel leak from the return line that surfaced after I put it back together. I changed the o ring but the check valve is extremely loose... Like the balls inside have been shaking themselves to death.

Anyone happen to have the old screaming eagle catalog part number for the braided lines with the quick release fittings? 

As far as I can tell the aftermarket ones don't have that provision.

[Liferjoesquid]

If I'm understanding what you've written correctly that broken outer shoe had not come apart and cycled its many and varied bits through the engine but, instead, you send the shoe to a sad and untimely death by trying to maliciously and with felonious intent YANK the chain past it?  FWIW there's normally not a big lip there.  If you had a lip it was from the chain having worn in to the shoe.

Ok, here's what I'd do and a little background.  And, by the way, you've actually gotten lucky.

Those shoes are notorious for early wear.  Even more notorious from coming apart completing and totally ruining an engine.  You caught yours before any of this happened.  So you're actually ahead of the game and should be pleased you got to where you are. 

At this point make the whole mess better.

There is a Screamin Eagle kit that is both worthwhile and (surprisingly for HD) cost effective.  You'll get a new cam plate (yours is at least questionable with probably/possible cam show much in the relief valve), new (and better) oil pump, new (and improved [really] chain tensioners, quieter chains and get it all as a kit.  HD part # 25284-11.  See it at the link below:

https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/se-hydraulic-tensioner---oil-pump-upgrade

Significantly cheaper here:  https://shop.newcastlehd.com/part/25284-11


You'll also want to replace the inner cam bearings at the same time.  The following link:

https://www.amazon.com/Torrington-B-148-Bearings-Harley-Davidson/dp/B07B5BTWSL


You could change cams now if you had a mind to (or not) but no matter what else you do you've actually hit a small jackpot by catching this now before those shoes came completely apart and trashed the engine.  You did good. 

You also don't need any special tools to assemble the cams to the cam plate with that new model plate.  You will need to get your old cams pressed out of the existing cam plate if you decide to use them again.  Only other specialty tool you'll need is the blind puller and the press to remove and reinstall the cam bearings.  If you don't have them and are disinclined to buy for a potentially one-off job say the word here.  I (and no doubt others of the brethren here) have something that can be borrowed.

Twolane,  I've finally been given the green light to do this project.  I have the cam plate and bearings on order.  My father in law informed me he has adjustable rods in the bike so removing/installation should not be difficult.  I have not messed with adjustable rods before.  Any words of wisdom?  It is my intent to reuse the cams and rods if both are in good shape.  Should I replace lifters regardless?  If so, what would you recommend?  Are there any other parts or kits I should have on hand?  Once I have everything in place to do this project, may I rent your blind bearing puller tool?

[longlast]

This will help you to correctly adjust your pushrods and to know how  many turns you have  to turn the pushrods you have to get the right adjustment.

[Liferjoesquid]

Thanks longlast! Great video!!  It did raise a question for me.  Are you supposed to readjust the rods after the tappers fully bleed down to take up the additional slack

[Twolanerider]

Had missed the new traffic on this thread from September.  Sorry about that.  Congrats on getting more done.  The video on adjusting pushrods is one of those gifts that keep on giving.  No matter how someone might describe a chore like that actually seeing it is just better. 

As for the other question; lifters, cam bearings, tensioners.  Those are things you just about automatically if you're in that far and they're anything worse than almost new.  Just the nature of the beast if you want to feel more secure about it.  Good luck and have fun getting it all buttoned up .

[Liferjoesquid]

What would you recommend for lifters?

[Twolanerider]

What would you recommend for lifters?

I'm sure you'll receive many suggestions from various suppliers.  They'll range from the surprisingly expensive (for just four lifters) to the holy-f'ing-WillieG-that's-expensive cost ranges.  A very common and well regarded suggestion anymore is also on the lower end of the price spectrum (and how often does that happen).  I've used this also with good results.  My current choice is lifter part number B2313-SE from Johnson. 

Bikes of our era's don't eat lifter like many of the modern machines do.  Having said that why take a risk.  This "SE" variant of the 2313 lifter has some extra internal oiling that can't hurt.  They've gone in the last three motors I've worked on and there's a set out in the garage right now for a top end job I hope to finally get around to on my own old Road Glide over our Thanksgiving holiday.

[longlast]

Thanks longlast! Great video!!  It did raise a question for me.  Are you supposed to readjust the rods after the tappers fully bleed down to take up the additional slack

No!  Once the adjustment has been made and the tappet has bleed down that's the adjustment made.
Just be sure the adjustment is being made with the tappets on the bottom side of the cam. You'll know if you're not on the bottom of the cam when you did the adjustment because after giving plenty of bleed down time and you can't turn the pushrod with your fingers then it was not on the bottom/ lower side of the cam. Don't rush it each lifter will take it's own time to bleed down.

One other thing be sure that you have fully primed the lifters with oil (no air in lifters).
A sure way to know you've got the air out is by (it's messy) submerging the lifter in clean oil and using a oiling can put the tip of the spout firmly into the hole on the side of the lifter and bump oil into the lifter you'll see air bubbles coming out of the top.
Don't pump the oiling can out of oil while you're doing it or you'll have to start over because you've pumped air into the lifter.