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[Twolanerider]

Thanks Hoist, I enjoy  diagonois and have many years of it behind me. it all depends on the accuracy of the problem description and available diagrams/design info.   the only way to increase the top cruise speed would be to increase its value in the  IC chip in the controller and that aint happining (i dont think) maybe hook a nitrous blaster to the horn button?  Actually when in cruise mode at 80+ I to get nervious by the time I am finished screwing with the phone or nav or some techno thing i am up someones t-pipe..as these B/O ones just cant stop!! ( that is unless the engine blows or something trivial  like that) [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif] [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

I found an easy way to increase the max cruise control speed.  Just have a control module with a hitch in it.

In cooler weather, like below 45 or so, mine won't release.  So you climb a grade, the bike accelerates to maintain speed up the grade and then doesn't lose that gain on the downhill or level ground again.  It happens incremementally.  And if it happens gradually enough you can suddenly find yourself with the cruise holding you at 90 on level ground.  

Just a little tug on the idle cable and it "pops" right back to it's initial set position; so it's not a big deal.  But it's never done it yet for the guys at the shop so they wouldn't replace the module under warranty.  Warranty is expired now but at least they've promised to still honor it for the part whenever they finally catch it happening.  It's inconsequential enough I'm not buying a part myself though just to get it fixed when, eventually, they'll buy it for me.

[Chief]

I found an easy way to increase the max cruise control speed.  Just have a control module with a hitch in it.

In cooler weather, like below 45 or so, mine won't release.  So you climb a grade, the bike accelerates to maintain speed up the grade and then doesn't lose that gain on the downhill or level ground again.  It happens incremementally.  And if it happens gradually enough you can suddenly find yourself with the cruise holding you at 90 on level ground.  

Just a little tug on the idle cable and it "pops" right back to it's initial set position; so it's not a big deal.  But it's never done it yet for the guys at the shop so they wouldn't replace the module under warranty.  Warranty is expired now but at least they've promised to still honor it for the part whenever they finally catch it happening.  It's inconsequential enough I'm not buying a part myself though just to get it fixed when, eventually, they'll buy it for me.

Sounds like what I experienced when my cruise cable needed lube. The stepper motor could overcome the friction in the cable, but the return spring on the carb wasn't as strong and was held open, even tho the stepper motor had backed off. A little shot of WD, and all was well.

Cheers

Chief

[Twolanerider]

Sounds like what I experienced when my cruise cable needed lube. The stepper motor could overcome the friction in the cable, but the return spring on the carb wasn't as strong and was held open, even tho the stepper motor had backed off. A little shot of WD, and all was well.

Cheers

Chief

I wish.  Already lubed all the cables.  Repositioned the throttle and idle cables.  Even had a complete change of throttle body happen during the time it's been behaving this way.  Only thing left is the screwy module  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] .

[arcticdude]

Joe,
It will be real interesting to see if the ACR replacement fixes the bike.  I'm wondering about it, though.  Since you were running when it went the last time, the ACR's shouldn't have been powered at the time, thus shouldn't have been able to short.  Now if you were starting, that's a different story. They only work when the ecm gives them the signal.  Anybody know if they're a 2 wire unit or a 3 wire?  That could explain it.  I don't have my schematics handy.

[ESJ JESTER]

Hey Arctic, they are 2 wire and typical of most efi control they are hot all the time and switched with ground signal from puter.

[grc]

How bout a week as the fitting room attendent in Victoria's dressing room...   shhhhhh   keep it a secret tho [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

HEY!  That's going to be my new job in retirement (been planning it for the past 5 years).  No fair stealing my fantasy.

Jerry

[ESJ JESTER]

ha ha   wasnt steelin it just sharin it.  maybe there needs to be 2 attendents helpin?   like a tag team or somethin [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

[arcticdude]

Hey Arctic, they are 2 wire and typical of most efi control they are hot all the time and switched with ground signal from puter.

Some of the controls are 3 with the main power coming from the harness and NOT the computer.  The 3rd wire then is a trigger from the ecm, preventing the ecm from having to handle full amperage.  With 2 wires, you're just asking for computer troubles.

[ESJ JESTER]

I agree for sure there, couple that with the bean counters saving money on wire size and pushing limits on capacity,especially circuts at 12v. many solonoid components recieving power and ground from puter are down at 5v. A defect in manufacturing reguarding the epoxy and the short ( as per thier reason) would let the covetted smoke out at 1v or 12.  Just looks cooler at 12 and ohhhhh that smellll....  like cooling systems on 4 wheelers  used to be 4inch wide twice as efficient copper and brass. now bare min plastic and aluminum to hardly do the job. a little bad pm and scale and rust and temp rises.  DGMW, advances are great but with some systems that have years of faliure history  ...spend more beans on redundency and safety factors.   put a little extra glue on the heat shield tiles and make the engine's have more horsepower to carry the load...  ok i am off [smiley=soapbox.gif]  and  going to glare it up

[grc]

Actually, there are other reasons for the 5 volt regulated power to the sensors.  The main reason is that full battery voltage is too variable (12.? - 14.7) to provide the precision and accuracy required.  The same applies to things like fuel, oil pressure, and temp gauges.

Jerry

[grc]

I found an easy way to increase the max cruise control speed.  Just have a control module with a hitch in it.

In cooler weather, like below 45 or so, mine won't release.  So you climb a grade, the bike accelerates to maintain speed up the grade and then doesn't lose that gain on the downhill or level ground again.  It happens incremementally.  And if it happens gradually enough you can suddenly find yourself with the cruise holding you at 90 on level ground.  

Just a little tug on the idle cable and it "pops" right back to it's initial set position; so it's not a big deal.  But it's never done it yet for the guys at the shop so they wouldn't replace the module under warranty.  Warranty is expired now but at least they've promised to still honor it for the part whenever they finally catch it happening.  It's inconsequential enough I'm not buying a part myself though just to get it fixed when, eventually, they'll buy it for me.

Don,

It could also be the cut-off switch in the cable itself (the one that shuts the cruise down when you roll the throttle off).  I've noticed that mine takes quite a bit more effort to cut off the cruise [highlight]occasionally[/highlight], but haven't run into an experience like yours yet.  The only reason I even turn it off that way is because I noticed the "binding" once, and keep trying it to see if it's better, worse, whatever.  Since touching either brake kills it instantly, I don't consider it a big enough deal to replace it.

Jerry

[Twolanerider]

Don,

It could also be the cut-off switch in the cable itself (the one that shuts the cruise down when you roll the throttle off).  I've noticed that mine takes quite a bit more effort to cut off the cruise [highlight]occasionally[/highlight], but haven't run into an experience like yours yet.  The only reason I even turn it off that way is because I noticed the "binding" once, and keep trying it to see if it's better, worse, whatever.  Since touching either brake kills it instantly, I don't consider it a big enough deal to replace it.

Jerry

I wondered about that too Jerry.  Felt it up, fiddled with it, and the cut off function itself works just like it's supposed to.  Can also say the little hitch you feel when you force the idle cable to cause the system to release doesn't "feel" like anything you'd expect there.  Weird description, you know what I mean.

If it were hanging there I'm not sure it would release there so immediately when the brakes were touched either.  The module, on the other hand, releases precisely then.  Different subs within the system.  Like you say though, I've never gotten at all worried about it.  You do notice when the speed has crept up on you.  And it always releases with a tap of the brakes.  Until the dealership gives me free parts I can live with it  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] .

[Screamin_Beagle]

Well I can tell you from experience,  once you let the smoke out of any electronics...........


it's a real a$$ pain to get it back in......

_Beagle