Did you experience any power loss? With the oil completely off the dipstick, the bike would have a crankcase full of oil (assuming the oil was at FULL at the start of the ride). With a crankcase full of oil you would experience a massive power loss. You should experience a severe power loss if the oil was off the dipstick.

Its really important to follow the steps in the owners manual for checking the oil level.

The part that is very strange to me, if I read it right, was that the oil level on the dipstick went from nothing registered to 3/4 full while the bike was sitting in the parking lot of the donut shop.  Theoretically that can't happen with a dry sump engine, since no oil transfers from the sump to the oil pan unless the engine is running.  Or did I just read it wrong and the oil level increased after letting the engine idle for a period of time?  Either way, assuming you have the latest oil pump cover and seal, your experience is not the first time I've read something about a bike with the latest parts sumping; I've seen a couple other reports similar to yours.  In one report the rider recognized the symptoms and pulled over, allowed the bike to cool for a period of time, fired it up and rode it home without a repeat.  He was advised to have the engine checked for damage but I never saw a further report from him.

Jerry

No Jerry, you read that correctly. I did check the oil immediately after shutting it off and then again about 30 minutes later. Only slight chance of an error on my part is that I didn't get the first service done until around 1100 miles so oil (Amsoil) was very clear and admittedly I was freaking out when I hit the LED dipstick and it showed no oil so when I pulled the dipstick out I didn't have my gloves on and only had a napkin holding it so it was very hot and I looked at it very quickly and then threw it down (in frustration along with it burning me..) on the grass next to me. I might have not seen it correctly but when I came back 30 minuted later the LED dipstick then did show about 3/4 full. When I stopped at the gas station 5 minutes later both the LED dipstick showed full and this time I grabbed a handful of paper towels and for sure saw that dipstick was full as well. Dealer told me same thing that oil couldn't have returned with bike off and they thought maybe it just hadn't drained down yet which is ridiculous to me to that degree. I do think when I got home and it showed 3/4 when I first jumped off the bike and then full 10 minutes later that was the oil draining down. Dealer hated the LED dipstick (as does my buddy that was a tech) and keeps telling me how unreliable they are but so far every time I check both ways they have been spot on.
Only good thing is I finally got to tread the work order today and dealer definitely did document everything very accurately and showed results of compression and leak down tests. I am comfortable at least that no damage was done to motor. As I just posted I will video everything going forward so next time there will be no question. Of course I hope and pray there will not be a next time but unfortunately I don't believe in the Easter Bunny any longer..
Such a bummer, really was loving the bike.

Really sorry to read this.    Hope things work out.   

Make sure you include in the video that you are following the exact procedure in the owners manual for checking oul level. Both for the BEFORE and AFTER oil level measurements.

Sorry to hear, but I’m just not surprised. Next time try to remember to take poctures of the dipstick. Try taking a picture of the dipstick BEFORE and then again AFTER riding a similar route to the one that created the sumping conditions.

The pics will lead to a more constructive conversation with your dealer. And they can use the pics with HD customer service.

Did you have the latest oil pump with seal?

yes I have verified before I took delivery I had the new oil pump. I am going to take video of me checking the oil when I heat it up when I ride Sat and if  (when probably) it does it again I will also take video showing the oil level

Congrats on the new ride

Where is home while in Florida?

Had the bike tuned today at Cycle Rama, these are std correction numbers.
Totally changed the bike, will light up the rear tire pretty quick. 
Wont let me upload a pic of the sheet.
It did 121 at 5600 and 128 at 4200.
Starts at 110 torque at 2500 then hits hard at 4000. Lines cross at 120.
Am pleased as hell. 

Very true, but you have to remember Harley is losing it's traditional customers and they need to appeal to more people who have more "refined" expectations.  Now they need to put in some serious effort on fixing the other issues that turn off people coming over from other brands, such as poor quality and reliability.

JMHO - Jerry

Jerry; I'm a text book example of what you posted. After 28 years of riding Harleys, 12 new bikes including a CVO with the 110, I recently purchased a new BMW K1600B or Bagger. What a bike. Power, handling, comfort, brakes, handling all right off the showroom floor.  For near half the price of a new CVO. It was a no brainer.

Still like Harleys. When I buy another ( keeping the BMW) it will be a 2003. A simple Harley for those times I want to ride one. When I want to travel it will be the BMW.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

Sucks Alan. I still think the stage 4 is a common thread in all of this. 

Clearly the common denominator is the Milwaukee 8 engine design (not just stage IV) which is supported by the Service Bulletin which covers all versions. No M8 engine is exempt but clearly different upgrades and riding styles can make an M8 engine have a higher risk of sumping.

S&S built  me Custom V124 with 10.2:1 compression and a 585 cam. Bike runs fine but now I want  more power. I want to install a 600 cam. S&S looked up VIN but can't tell me what the spring packing  was set for.
Normally motor has a 640 cam but I don't know it they set it for the 585 cam that won't  work for the 600 cam. Is there an easy way to check without removing the heads? If I remove the heads then I gotta remove  the cylinders replace  the base gaskets too and new piston  rings. A big hassle but that's the safest thing  I guess.  Can I remove  the forward rocker box, install the new cam and measure the spring  oil seal to collar clearance? Or am I missing  something.  Any help is appreciated. Thanks