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[Ironhorse]

Over on the VTF there is a long thread on the T-MAX AT. In it they mention all the firmware updates and all. Anyway they suggested that after updating all the firmware, to clear the IAC offsets, start the bike cold and let it run to 289degrees WITHOUT using the IAC-Auto set up. Just start is up and let the AT set the IAC. I did, and man it is like a new bike! Unbelieveable!

They go into a whole bunch of other Zippers stuff too, but this one made a huge difference for me right away. If anyone who has the Zippers AT has not done this, they may want to consider doing it.

Mark

[nixobilly]

Do you have a link to this discussion thread or to the firmware update?

Mark

[Talon]

I don't have TM W/AT yet, but been keeping a file on it as I'm real close to buying one. Don't know where I got this, but might have been from this site.

 "Make sure you followed the instructions carefully for the IAC AUTO setup. This is a very critical step. If your bike is hot, wait till the next day and do that run from a cold engine to 289 degrees. Then change that setting for YOUR bike as per the manual. It is self explanatory.  From that point on, the map Zippers created by the boyz up north will work exceptionally well.  Make sure you selected the correct map, for example, 110, Rineharts stock baffle, air cleaner wheter Zipps 2.125, or 2.3/4 etc.  The map you profile, if the components are matched on the map selection, will work well."

[Smiler]

Thanks for this little snippet.  A mate of mine is going with zippers so I'll pass it on to him.

[Twolanerider]

Over on the VTF there is a long thread on the T-MAX AT. In it they mention all the firmware updates and all. Anyway they suggested that after updating all the firmware, to clear the IAC offsets, start the bike cold and let it run to 289degrees WITHOUT using the IAC-Auto set up. Just start is up and let the AT set the IAC. I did, and man it is like a new bike! Unbelieveable!

They go into a whole bunch of other Zippers stuff too, but this one made a huge difference for me right away. If anyone who has the Zippers AT has not done this, they may want to consider doing it.

Mark

Mark,

How, what, in which flavor is the improvement felt?  And I'm assuming if the firmware were already current it's just a matter clearing and running?  Before clearing, however, still interested in what the perceived gain is?

[Twolanerider]

p.s., Do you suppose there's any chance the perceived gain might be that the original IAC tracking is just more accurate than what some of might have put (despite our best intentions)?

[SneakyPete]

I had a number of issues with my TMAX/AT set up including this one.  In speaking with Zipper's they said they were having some problems with the IAC auto function and they recommended I reinitialize, clear learned offsets and start the warmup process without turning on the IAC auto button.  Bike idled much better afterwards.  They said the IAC auto function was designed to make up for various differences in throttle body tolerances and added that if you had as Zipper's TB it wasn't necessary anyway.  I have a Zipper's 54 mm TB, so I didn't have an issue with what they said.

[Twolanerider]

I had a number of issues with my TMAX/AT set up including this one.  In speaking with Zipper's they said they were having some problems with the IAC auto function and they recommended I reinitialize, clear learned offsets and start the warmup process without turning on the IAC auto button.  Bike idled much better afterwards.  They said the IAC auto function was designed to make up for various differences in throttle body tolerances and added that if you had as Zipper's TB it wasn't necessary anyway.  I have a Zipper's 54 mm TB, so I didn't have an issue with what they said.

Mine is a Zippers throttle body also.  But even with the IAC having been done as per printed instructions I've never had any idle issues.  If that's the only gain then I'm already satisfied  .

[nixobilly]

well I finally understand how hypochondriacs feel when they hit WEBMD.com!!!!   

Everytime someone's bike farts I run out and check mine.....

Signed,

OCD

[Twolanerider]

I hate fixing things that aren't actually broken.  Especially where driveability issues are concerned.  But as the weather has gotten warmer and the temps have touched 90 or a bit more I've found I needed to try dropping another degree from the timing table.  Going to be on the bike this weekend so wanted to do that tonight before leaving anyway.  So took a look.

There was a firmware update available for mine.  That latest update itself was about six months old.  So using it shouldn't mean being a beta tester for a company's latest good idea.

Went ahead and ran through the steps.  They are the setup steps in the now current version of the PDF version of the manual available online.  So what the hell....  Worst case is going back and doing it the other way again after the weekend.

Just realized had changed the timing table first.  Then loaded the firmware update, cleared the IAC setup and reran the bike.  Then never looked to see if the timing table change had somehow got washed out with all the changes.  Crap.  Now pull the saddlebag and side cover back off in the morning and look.  Rather be safe than pinging.

[Ironhorse]

Here is the link to the VTF forum. The thread is over 100 pages long, but the stuff I'm referring to starts on page 97/98 I think.

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1164222#post1164222

I've got the Zippers TB too, it came with the whole package. Here is what I have found out, and perhaps Danny Fitz, or John Kitz can chime in if my explanation is way off or all wrong, (which is common for a low tech lunk-head like me). The firmware up grade changed a lot of parameters inside the ECM. There is NO NEED to do the IAC-Auto set up now. Just clear the IAC learned offsets, load up your MAP, reinitialize, and start the bike cold. Let it run to 289 degrees, and shut if off, then back on. This allows the Auto-Tune to set the IAC, and lock in the setting. Since a properly set IAC is KEY to everything the T-Max does, this step is very important. Without a good IAC setting, as I understand it, EVERYTHING across the board will be off. The bike will not run as well, and the mpgs may reflect that. I may be mistaken, but I think Zippers no longer promotes using the IAC-Auto set up, except in certain circumstances. The key thing now is letting the Auto-Tune do the job. For me the bike now runs smoother all the way to redline. I mean REALLY smooth, God I hate to say it but almost "Japanese" smooth. No mid range quirks or anything.

The other thing I learned is that it is better to tweak your MAP when your computer is hooked up to the ECM, you are linked up, and the bike is turned on. Then the changes are made DIRECTLY to the ECM. I used to make my MAP changes on the laptop, save the file, go out to the garage, hook up, link up, and write the new MAP into the ECM, thinking it was the same thing. It's not. Doing it this way, requires you to reinitialize EVERYTIME, something I never did. So if you want to make MAP changes, hook up, link up, turn on, and go for it. You can even make AFR and tuning changes WITH THE BIKE RUNNING. Today I adjusted my idle with the bike running, and heard and saw the idle change.

The T-Max Auto-Tune is an incredible tuning tool, but as I am finding out, like anything computer related, you have to keep on top of the updates, software changes, and stuff like that. And that was part of my problem. I viewed the T-Max like an SERT on steroids. It's waaaaaay more than that.

[Twolanerider]

Here is the link to the VTF forum. The thread is over 100 pages long, but the stuff I'm referring to starts on page 97/98 I think.

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1164222#post1164222

I've got the Zippers TB too, it came with the whole package. Here is what I have found out, and perhaps Danny Fitz, or John Kitz can chime in if my explanation is way off or all wrong, (which is common for a low tech lunk-head like me). The firmware up grade changed a lot of parameters inside the ECM. There is NO NEED to do the IAC-Auto set up now. Just clear the IAC learned offsets, load up your MAP, reinitialize, and start the bike cold. Let it run to 289 degrees, and shut if off, then back on. This allows the Auto-Tune to set the IAC, and lock in the setting. Since a properly set IAC is KEY to everything the T-Max does, this step is very important. Without a good IAC setting, as I understand it, EVERYTHING across the board will be off. The bike will not run as well, and the mpgs may reflect that. I may be mistaken, but I think Zippers no longer promotes using the IAC-Auto set up, except in certain circumstances. The key thing now is letting the Auto-Tune do the job. For me the bike now runs smoother all the way to redline. I mean REALLY smooth, God I hate to say it but almost "Japanese" smooth. No mid range quirks or anything.

The other thing I learned is that it is better to tweak your MAP when your computer is hooked up to the ECM, you are linked up, and the bike is turned on. Then the changes are made DIRECTLY to the ECM. I used to make my MAP changes on the laptop, save the file, go out to the garage, hook up, link up, and write the new MAP into the ECM, thinking it was the same thing. It's not. Doing it this way, requires you to reinitialize EVERYTIME, something I never did. So if you want to make MAP changes, hook up, link up, turn on, and go for it. You can even make AFR and tuning changes WITH THE BIKE RUNNING. Today I adjusted my idle with the bike running, and heard and saw the idle change.

The T-Max Auto-Tune is an incredible tuning tool, but as I am finding out, like anything computer related, you have to keep on top of the updates, software changes, and stuff like that. And that was part of my problem. I viewed the T-Max like an SERT on steroids. It's waaaaaay more than that.

Mark, some of not knowing how best to handle things with the package (hardware and software) is that the documentation we've been supplied previously quite frankly wasn't too hot.  A lot of unanswered questions there.  Some things could be surmised through the responses you got from the bike.  Others you were just left to wonder though.

I'll be on a little ride the next few days.  So will be interested to see how the bike does with the change.  Something to pay attention to and look forward to.