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Author Topic: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)  (Read 3055 times)

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JjR

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Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« on: June 08, 2007, 02:11:42 PM »
Ok so I removed the negative, cable, muffler support and muffler and support on top of the trans.



How do I get at those rear header bolts as the cover on the rear pipe is in the way? I have removed the springs and the cover does not seem to budge?



Also what size nuts are on the heade/header flange and what do I use to get at them.



Thanks,

John
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JR

Chief

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2007, 02:22:23 PM »
Quote from: JjR on June 08, 2007, 02:11:42 PM
Ok so I removed the negative, cable, muffler support and muffler and support on top of the trans.

How do I get at those rear header bolts as the cover on the rear pipe is in the way? I have removed the springs and the cover does not seem to budge?

Also what size nuts are on the heade/header flange and what do I use to get at them.

Thanks,

John

The nuts are 1/2". You should be able to move the heatshield around to get at them. A crows-foot is also handy too.
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JjR

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2007, 02:36:44 PM »
Quote from: Chief on June 08, 2007, 02:22:23 PM
The nuts are 1/2". You should be able to move the heatshield around to get at them. A crows-foot is also handy too.
Yea that heatshield is not budging but I finally weaseled off the nuts. Next question does this look like a gasket is still in there?
http://www.angelfire.com/il3/twins/gasket_yes-no.JPG

Also it seems that the flange bolts were not that tight, should they be?

Thanks
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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2007, 02:44:38 PM »
Yes, it looks like there is one.  feel it with your finger -- it should be smooth all the way around.  BTW dont re-use gasket replace with SE exhaust gasket (note the factory does NOT use the SE gasket in our CVO bikes.....  go ahead and say it ... I did!   :'(  )

Mark
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Chief

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2007, 02:53:27 PM »
Quote from: JjR on June 08, 2007, 02:36:44 PM
Yea that heatshield is not budging but I finally weaseled off the nuts. Next question does this look like a gasket is still in there?
http://www.angelfire.com/il3/twins/gasket_yes-no.JPG

Also it seems that the flange bolts were not that tight, should they be?

Thanks
Rinehart supplies replacement gaskets with their pipes. You could call them to see which HD part No is the closest to what they want you to use.

Do you have a service manual? If not, please do yourself a favor and get one. It will make your life much easier.
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JjR

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2007, 03:01:07 PM »
Quote from: Chief on June 08, 2007, 02:53:27 PM
Rinehart supplies replacement gaskets with their pipes. You could call them to see which HD part No is the closest to what they want you to use.

Do you have a service manual? If not, please do yourself a favor and get one. It will make your life much easier.
Sure have the 03 manual but it does not cover Bub. Dont understand why I sould call HD as I have the gasket?
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Chief

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2007, 03:10:34 PM »
Quote from: JjR on June 08, 2007, 03:01:07 PM
Sure have the 03 manual but it does not cover Bub. Dont understand why I sould call HD as I have the gasket?

The reason is that a lot of people will tell you not to re-use the gasket once you've removed the pipe. If that is the way you feel, I would contact BUB and find out which HD gasket they reccomend as that will be the easiest gasket for you to get hold of.

If, on the other hand, you want to re-use the existing gasket, ignore the above.

Good luck, and congrats for digging into it on your own.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2007, 03:21:32 PM by Chief »
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JjR

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #7 on: June 08, 2007, 03:20:40 PM »
Quote from: Chief on June 08, 2007, 03:10:34 PM
The reason is that a lot of people will tell you not to re-use the gasket once you've removed the pipe. If that is the way you feel, I would contact BUB and find out which HD gasket the reccomend as that will be the easiest gasket for you to get hold of.

If, on the other hand, you want to re-use the existing gasket, ignore the above.

Good luck, and congrats for digging into it on your own.
Man I guess you missed it, I have 2 brand new gaskets that came with the updated rear headpipe. I can not find any gasket matreial when I tool the original pipe out all I see is carbon.

Here is a pix with the new gasket installed. My question is when the new gasket is inatalled should it be flush which this one is.

http://www.angelfire.com/il3/twins/should-gasket-be-fulsh.JPG
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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2007, 03:27:35 PM »
Quote from: JjR on June 08, 2007, 03:20:40 PM
Man I guess you missed it, I have 2 brand new gaskets that came with the updated rear headpipe. I can not find any gasket matreial when I tool the original pipe out all I see is carbon.

Here is a pix with the new gasket installed. My question is when the new gasket is inatalled should it be flush which this one is.

http://www.angelfire.com/il3/twins/should-gasket-be-fulsh.JPG

I guess we're all missing something, because that little tidbit is not mentioned in this thread.

The first picture you posted definitely had a gasket in there. I can see from the second pic that you put the new gasket on top of the old one. You need to get the old one out first.

The gasket you have is different than the original. It is like the older EVO gaskets. Some actually still prefer them.

Get the old gasket out of there!!!
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #9 on: June 08, 2007, 03:32:56 PM »
The old gasket is still in there.  Use a very small flatbladed screwdriver to get under the backside of the old gasket, then run it around the hole to unstick the old gasket from the exhaust port.  Use a pocket knife to clean the surface up before putting the new gasket in.  Don't gouge the surface though, just scrape if it doensn't all come out in one piece.
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JjR

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2007, 03:35:15 PM »
Quote from: TCnBham on June 08, 2007, 03:32:56 PM
The old gasket is still in there.  Use a very small flatbladed screwdriver to get under the backside of the old gasket, then run it around the hole to unstick the old gasket from the exhaust port.  Use a pocket knife to clean the surface up before putting the new gasket in.  Don't gouge the surface though, just scrape if it doensn't all come out in one piece.

Ok I tried scraping out what I think is a gasket but what I get is carbon over metal as as soon as I scrape I get metal???
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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #11 on: June 08, 2007, 03:37:21 PM »
Quote from: JjR on June 08, 2007, 03:35:15 PM
Ok I tried scraping out what I think is a gasket but what I get is carbon over metal as as soon as I scrape I get metal???


Trust me. The smooth stuff along the sides is gasket. You should be able to scrape up a few fuzzy pieces and slowly tear the gasket up until you can grap some of the fuzz with a pair of small pliers, or pick it out entirely with a pick or small screw driver, as Terry recommended.
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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #12 on: June 08, 2007, 03:38:46 PM »
The shoulder where the gasket sits has really nice square sides and bottom. The angled sides you see in the hole is the gasket. You'll get it.
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #13 on: June 08, 2007, 03:47:04 PM »
The gasket material contains metal fibers...that is what you are seeing.  As Chief mentioned, the exhaust port has 90 degree sides, just like the flange on the header.  The gasket is just stuck on there from the heat.  If it's the RH gasket, it's not real thick.  If you use the pocket size screwdriver, or the pick (awl), you'll get down to the surface if you work on one spot for a minute or two, then you'll be able to work it off the surface of the port more easily.
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Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.
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Gone, but not forgotten...2011 FLTRUSE with
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JjR

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Re: Rear True Dual Warranty Replacement (How do I get at the header bolts?)
« Reply #14 on: June 08, 2007, 03:50:33 PM »
Quote from: TCnBham on June 08, 2007, 03:47:04 PM
The gasket material contains metal fibers...that is what you are seeing.  As Chief mentioned, the exhaust port has 90 degree sides, just like the flange on the header.  The gasket is just stuck on there from the heat.  If it's the RH gasket, it's not real thick.  If you use the pocket size screwdriver, or the pick (awl), you'll get down to the surface if you work on one spot for a minute or two, then you'll be able to work it off the surface of the port more easily.
OK its out, thanks all.

BTW any ideas on how to spread the retainer clip for the exhaust flange? My circlip speaders are not that wide.
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