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[sadunbar]

So, I am on day 1 of an 8 day 3000 mile trip...about 450 miles from home...and my rear head gasket has started leaking oil...rear fins are wet... a few drops of oil on the top of the chrome transmission cover.

For those of you have experienced this problem, what should I expect in the next 2500 miles until I get home?

The bike seems to be running fine.  The spark plug is dry...   I wiped the oil off the trans cover mid day, and had a few more drops at the next gas stop.  I have not leaked enough oil to notice it on the dip stick yet...

I brought a couple of quarts of oil with me, so replenish the leakage is no problem.  Is anything worse then leaking a bit of oil likely to occur before I get home??

Scott

[Rhino]

Probably not.  It is annoying, and stays a slow leak. I woould use a little dispersant to clean off the oil well, and ride on.   The motor will accumulate oil at the bottom of the cylinder. It does dilute your fuel mix a bit, so a little power gone, and also, a little compression.   It is something to attend to when you get home.

In the install of the new head gasket, it is the responsibility of the installer to MAKE SURE THE GASKET IS CENTERED when reinstalling, not off to one side or the other, but carefully placed so the dowel holes are actualy surrounding with the raised beads on the gasket. If installed incorrectly, it can pinch a side of the bead, and results in a leak. You know, like we now have/had.  Opening iup you can see what I mean.  In addition, I was told, and got, new piston rings on front and rear too, becasue it was recommended by the dealer, under warranty too.

Enjoy the trip!!!

Rhino

So, I am on day 1 of an 8 day 3000 mile trip...about 450 miles from home...and my rear head gasket has started leaking oil...rear fins are wet... a few drops of oil on the top of the chrome transmission cover.

For those of you have experienced this problem, what should I expect in the next 2500 miles until I get home?

The bike seems to be running fine.  The spark plug is dry...   I wiped the oil off the trans cover mid day, and had a few more drops at the next gas stop.  I have not leaked enough oil to notice it on the dip stick yet...

I brought a couple of quarts of oil with me, so replenish the leakage is no problem.  Is anything worse then leaking a bit of oil likely to occur before I get home??

Scott

[sadunbar]

Probably not.  It is annoying, and stays a slow leak. I woould use a little dispersant to clean off the oil well, and ride on.   The motor will accumulate oil at the bottom of the cylinder. It does dilute your fuel mix a bit, so a little power gone, and also, a little compression.   It is something to attend to when you get home.

In the install of the new head gasket, it is the responsibility of the installer to MAKE SURE THE GASKET IS CENTERED when reinstalling, not off to one side or the other, but carefully placed so the dowel holes are actualy surrounding with the raised beads on the gasket. If installed incorrectly, it can pinch a side of the bead, and results in a leak. You know, like we now have/had.  Opening iup you can see what I mean.  In addition, I was told, and got, new piston rings on front and rear too, becasue it was recommended by the dealer, under warranty too.

Enjoy the trip!!!

Rhino

Thanks Ron....an unwelcome annoyance...not jjust the leak, but now also having to deal with getting it repaired correctly - whatever that is...

Scott

[skreminegul07]

Many of us are getting cylinders changed.  Just one until you remind them that you are not having a motor with 5000 on the front half and zero on the rear half.  Write and call before it gets ripped appart and you are not vulnerable to "whatever just to get it back" syndrome. 
My two cents.  Try to maintain some kind of an advantage in the situation which is difficult.

[Rhino]

I did have the rear cylinder changed, but that was per Harley. We took down the front one anyway, and checked it also since we were doing pistons rings.  Both the rear, and the front were as round and clean as could be, the rear was a bit oily, but when cleaned, looked new. Changed it anyway.  Could not see any differences even minutely with the new vs. old rear.  We did upgrade both head gaskets, that is important, to maintain spacing for compression on F & R, and that was it.  I still think that proper new gasket placement is critical, and frankly, that is the only focus one can use, since there is no other rescue or solution coming from MOCO.  I also hear that the new gasket is leaking in a few instances.  But I am not 100% absolutely sure that it is not from install.  You have a gasket with the 4 dowel holes, and other curves and spacing.  I think setting them correctly, at least would minimize that issue.  I do not think it has anything to do with 'porosity'. I think it does have something to do with the holes and alignment and the specs on the gasket, which need to mate perfectly on the cyl, and the head, and the dowels.  Other than that, I do not think  it is anything other than the gasket issue, certainly not a mechanical defect.  JMHO Rhino

Many of us are getting cylinders changed.  Just one until you remind them that you are not having a motor with 5000 on the front half and zero on the rear half.  Write and call before it gets ripped appart and you are not vulnerable to "whatever just to get it back" syndrome. 
My two cents.  Try to maintain some kind of an advantage in the situation which is difficult.

[skreminegul07]

Rhino,
From what I have heard, its that the cylinders are not machined square, even the replacements.  My SM is going to check them with a Torque plate before installation and send them out to be squared if off.  It has to be more than just gaskets.  IMO.

[Rhino]

I heard that too, but my guy checked and said not.  I think it is the gasket, AND the small area it has to seat between the wall and the dowels, AND the size of the gasket holes around the dowels.   I don't think it allows the gasket to be wide enough in that area, but we may never actually know. JMHO.

I am curiious to hear your results with your SM. PLEASE post, even if it is ruled out.   
Rhino

Rhino,
From what I have heard, its that the cylinders are not machined square, even the replacements.  My SM is going to check them with a Torque plate before installation and send them out to be squared if off.  It has to be more than just gaskets.  IMO.

[skreminegul07]

I heard that too, but my guy checked and said not.  I think it is the gasket, AND the small area it has to seat between the wall and the dowels, AND the size of the gasket holes around the dowels.   I don't think it allows the gasket to be wide enough in that area, but we may never actually know. JMHO.

I am curiious to hear your results with your SM. PLEASE post, even if it is ruled out.   
Rhino

Rhino,
I think ultimately it comes down to the fact the 110" is too much for these jugs.  Not enough material left to seal properly and not enough material to handle the heat.  The heat being the most likely factor to the movement and or distortion of the two sealing surfaces.  This moveemnt eventually leads to gasket failure.  I also think this oil is too thin any will pass thru places heavy oil could not.  Not a scientific explanation, but JMHO.  A guaranteed fix is 113" jugs.

[Rhino]

If one goes to 113's, then new heads, rockers, manifold, + lots more .... interesting...  If I did a conversion to a 113 from my 110 now, how much would THAT be?  I think it may be unaffordable. How about a direct to 120 instead?  I still am interested in finding out what your SM says too.  With deep pockets I would squeeze a 131 in it and be done, after taking it to a 145 putting out 180/180.  Seriously, I am sure MOCO will warranty it until they find a permanent cure, but a lot of that depends on how many break. Our group is unusual in the fact that we ride 1K per month. MOCO may not have thought that as part of the equation. Oh well, whooo knows. If it breaks, it can be fixed...on MOCO.  But now, I am a happy camper 12K of fun and 314 days of ownership and 3 days of down time due to mechanicals, and 2 days down for inspections. Not a bad average...so far.

Rhino

Rhino,
I think ultimately it comes down to the fact the 110" is too much for these jugs.  Not enough material left to seal properly and not enough material to handle the heat.  The heat being the most likely factor to the movement and or distortion of the two sealing surfaces.  This moveemnt eventually leads to gasket failure.  I also think this oil is too thin any will pass thru places heavy oil could not.  Not a scientific explanation, but JMHO.  A guaranteed fix is 113" jugs.

[sadunbar]

So, I lasted another 500 miles today with a similiar amount of leakage from the rear cylinder head gasket.  I still have not lost enough oil to notice it on the dip stick...temps were normal...power was normal...

But, I encountered a new adventure today...while crossing the Mackinac Bridge to meet up with the rest our group (heading to Toronto, then Niagria Falls), my radio went blank (no power), along with my accessory circuit (Garmin Zumo), no turn signals, and the oil temperature gage lost power.  All other gages and the rest of the bike was still powered and the bike was running normal.  So, I made it across the bridge and located the rest of our group (making us 11).  We stopped at the tourist area on the south end of the bridge.  I shut the bike off by turning off the ignition switch at the handle bar, then turned the ignition switch back on, fuel pump fired as normal, then hit the starter button - and had nothing.  So, I turned off the main power switch, turned it back on, and everything powered back up.  The radio turned on, accy switch was working, oil temp gage was working - everything back to normal.  I hit the starter - the bike fired up and has been running normal ever since.  I had previously had no electrical issues with the bike.  Thoughts anyone?  The combination of what was working and what wasn't must mean something...

I hit the magic 5000 mile mark on the bike today - must be like turning 40 years old...   The adventure continues.....

Scott

[Hoist!]

I found mine leaking at around 3500 miles in Atlanta and rode it that way the rest of the trip, and put another 2000 miles on it before tearing it down. The leak got worse but never enough to notice it on the dipstick. I believe Rhino hit the problem on the head with the gasket as the problem. But it's more than just centering it. There was discussion of out of square cylinders because the new '07A gasket they came out with didn't work either. The 113 and larger bore engines, that use HD cases and the stock cylinder stud pattern, use metal racing style head gaskets. HD decided to use paper/cardboard type gaskets. There isn't enough space between the piston opening and the stud hole for this type of gasket to hold up. Especially with the heat these things make, which expands and contracts everything even more. You do need to properly align the gasket, but until they change to the metal gaskets, IMO they will eventually leak again. The 113" is not a street legal mod from HD, and you buy everything for it. Since they're selling it to you, they provide a more expensive metal gasket and I hear they hold up fine. That's with a bigger bore and higher compression. So do the 120's and 124's. What does that tell you! We'll see I guess. I'm using a metal gasket now. If it holds up, I think we're on to something. If not, it's back to the drawing board. I'm hearing rumors of new cylinder design, but haven't confirmed that yet. But try using the metal Cometic Head Gasket instead of the HD if they'll let you. I think that will take care of it, if it's installed properly. JMO here, but I think since djkak first brought this up, it makes the most sense.

The problem shows up 2 ways. A head gasket leak, which leaks at the bottom of the head under the exhaust port, and/or it leaks past the head gasket and into the cylinder stud hole, and eventually appears as a base gasket leak. But since the stud holes are outside of the base gasket O-ring, it will eventually seep from the bottom of the cylinder. When I removed the head and cylinder, oil poured out of the stud hole, proving this.

I'm not sure HD can fix this permanently until they change the head gasket material. This is just my opinion after trying to get a grip on this. We'll see what they come up with this time around. I'll just keep an eye on mine in the meantime and hope it holds up.

Hoist!

[Ironhorse]

I had the exact same symptom on my bike. No loss of compression, just a lazy oil leak that wet the fins, and left tiny oil drops on the starter cover. I had the mobile mechanic come to the house. It turned out to be a leaky O-ring in the headgasket.

[GC_Super]

At least you 07 guys have the black motors. My 06, silver motor had to have the rear head replaced at 15K, and now I have the oil stains on the rear fins.  Mine first showed up on a trip, so the oil got cooked pretty good before I had a chance to try to clean it.  Anybody know any top secret stuff to clean the silver cases?

[Chief]

Parked at the HOG Rally in Knoxville and looked at a B&O Jester a few bikes away. Leaky head gasket. 2,763 miles.

[sadunbar]

So, I lasted another 500 miles today with a similar amount of leakage from the rear cylinder head gasket.  I still have not lost enough oil to notice it on the dip stick...temps were normal...power was normal...

But, I encountered a new adventure today...while crossing the Mackinac Bridge to meet up with the rest our group (heading to Toronto, then Niagara Falls), my radio went blank (no power), along with my accessory circuit (Garmin Zumo), no turn signals, and the oil temperature gage lost power.  All other gages and the rest of the bike was still powered and the bike was running normal.  So, I made it across the bridge and located the rest of our group (making us 11).  We stopped at the tourist area on the south end of the bridge.  I shut the bike off by turning off the ignition switch at the handle bar, then turned the ignition switch back on, fuel pump fired as normal, then hit the starter button - and had nothing.  So, I turned off the main power switch, turned it back on, and everything powered back up.  The radio turned on, accy switch was working, oil temp gage was working - everything back to normal.  I hit the starter - the bike fired up and has been running normal ever since.  I had previously had no electrical issues with the bike.  Thoughts anyone?  The combination of what was working and what wasn't must mean something...

I hit the magic 5000 mile mark on the bike today - must be like turning 40 years old...   The adventure continues.....

Scott

Anyone have any thoughts on my electrical phenomenon?

Scott

[skreminegul07]

Anyone have any thoughts on my electrical phenomenon?

Scott

This will probably get more attention in it's own thread in General CVO or model specific.  Some people are tire of reading about our head gasket issues.  JMHO.
Thanks

[miker]

Loose wire.  Check all connectors, ground points.

Miker

[GasRat]

Well, I guess my story is taking another turn to " what the F*** town.  My bike is scheduled to go in Wed. for the third gasket change.  Nothing new, just small leak at bottom of head as usual.   Well I hop on the bike to go to work this morning start it up let it warm up bit,  get half way down  the block and notice a slight ticking noise then the engine light comes on and suprise!!  No oil pressure.  I put it back in the garage and I'm calling the dealer this morning.  Boy I can't wait to see what happens next.  And to be honest with you, I had a hard time not riding it to work anyway just to see the damn motor grenade and see if a new one would have better luck.  But I just don't have it in me to intensionally hurt my jester.  So we'll see what happens & I'll keep you all posted step by step.  

[skreminegul07]

Well, I guess my story is taking another turn to " what the F*** town.  My bike is scheduled to go in Wed. for the third gasket change.  Nothing new, just small leak at bottom of head as usual.   Well I hop on the bike to go to work this morning start it up let it warm up bit,  get half way down  the block and notice a slight ticking noise then the engine light comes on and suprise!!  No oil pressure.  I put it back in the garage and I'm calling the dealer this morning.  Boy I can't wait to see what happens next.  And to be honest with you, I had a hard time not riding it to work anyway just to see the damn motor grenade and see if a new one would have better luck.  But I just don't have it in me to intensionally hurt my jester.  So we'll see what happens & I'll keep you all posted step by step.  

Sorry to hear, Gasrat.  What's your mileage?  Crank took out the oil pump perhaps? 

[GasRat]

Just hit 7000.

[skreminegul07]

Just hit 7000.

Thanks.  Another problem to look forward too.  I'm having runout checked while in for the dual jug and tranny replacement.  Doing that first!

This POS motor is taking up too much of my time.  The passion is gone, that train has left the station.

[gremlush]

I have a 2007 springer ,built in June 2007 , and it has the Cometic 3 layer head gaskets on it. You can  see the 'tabs' with the ribbets sticking out ,and they are 3 layer metal. Probably .040 thick. If H-D is using Cometics tq. specs. 4 tqs instead of 3 ,they should hold up fine. Been porting H-D heads since 1978 and have been supplying Cometic gaskets with all of my heads for years ,and have had NO gaskets problems. H-D tried so many different head and base gaskets on the EVO's ,its all about $ , but screaming eagle gaskets are made by Cometic ,and you have to pay for them ! I think all new CVO 110s will have the Cometic head gaskets. I think {could be wrong} that Cometic has a patent on the 3 layer metal gaskets. I have 1950 miles on my springer {1 month} and its all been 95-100 degree's ,and I do not baby this motor ! No leak yet !!!!!

[skreminegul07]

I have a 2007 springer ,built in June 2007 , and it has the Cometic 3 layer head gaskets on it. You can  see the 'tabs' with the ribbets sticking out ,and they are 3 layer metal. Probably .040 thick. If H-D is using Cometics tq. specs. 4 tqs instead of 3 ,they should hold up fine. Been porting H-D heads since 1978 and have been supplying Cometic gaskets with all of my heads for years ,and have had NO gaskets problems. H-D tried so many different head and base gaskets on the EVO's ,its all about $ , but screaming eagle gaskets are made by Cometic ,and you have to pay for them ! I think all new CVO 110s will have the Cometic head gaskets. I think {could be wrong} that Cometic has a patent on the 3 layer metal gaskets. I have 1950 miles on my springer {1 month} and its all been 95-100 degree's ,and I do not baby this motor ! No leak yet !!!!!

I spoke to Tech Support at Cometic last week and they said they do not supply head gaskets to HD.  THey said they had done some R&D for them in the past.  For what that info is worth.

[Rhino]

Did you by any chance encounter ANY moisture, like RAIN, or a BIKE WASH? 
Rhino

But, I encountered a new adventure today...while crossing the Mackinac Bridge to meet up with the rest our group (heading to Toronto, then Niagria Falls), my radio went blank (no power), along with my accessory circuit (Garmin Zumo), no turn signals, and the oil temperature gage lost power. 
Scott

[Rhino]

Well, I guess my story is taking another turn to " what the F*** town.  My bike is scheduled to go in Wed. for the third gasket change.  Nothing new, just small leak at bottom of head as usual.   Well I hop on the bike to go to work this morning start it up let it warm up bit,  get half way down  the block and notice a slight ticking noise then the engine light comes on and suprise!!  No oil pressure.  

You will be getting a NEW motor if your dealer is upright.  If not, demand to talk to the MOCO rep.   No oil pressure= Your oil pump is shot. For sure your crank is out closer to .030 instead of .0030.   That alone qualifies you for the motor.  Be there when they do it.   
Sorry to hear of your trials, but there is always a solution, although quite inconvenient. 

Rhino

[sadunbar]

Did you by any chance encounter ANY moisture, like RAIN, or a BIKE WASH? 
Rhino

Hi Ron,

No rain, no bike wash...I am hoping someone can identify a circuit that would leave most of the electrics intact, but stop only the radio, oil temp gage, assy switch, turn signals and starter (or starter button).  There could have been more not working, but it was kind of busy in the traffic.  Any hints to troubleshoot the issue should it happen again.  But, as to your question, there was nothing out of the ordinary and no water at all prior to the electrical failure...  It was strange that shortly after the electrics failed, it all recovered for a minute or two, then the same items failed again, and then did not recover until I cycled the power switch.  The bike ran fine again today (except for the oil seepage from the rear head and my paranoid thoughts each time I shut off the bike)...

Scott

[Rhino]

Hi Ron,
No rain, no bike wash...I am hoping someone can identify a circuit that would leave most of the electrics intact, but stop only the radio, oil temp gage, assy switch, turn signals and starter (or starter button). 
Scott

Easy enough to figure, a couple of connectors, and search for open wire shorting to frame in a bundle.  Need to look at 07 cvo supplement which has electrical schems, cant tonight, but following radio back, oil temp back etc, should be able to troubleshoot better.   Dealer trip scheduled?  Check entire fuse box harness too, could have been twisted when reinstalled, under rt side cover.  Not sure about that assy switch, geez, I got to get one of those. What does it do, turn on the vibrating seat?

Rhino

[sadunbar]

Easy enough to figure, a couple of connectors, and search for open wire shorting to frame in a bundle.  Need to look at 07 cvo supplement which has electrical schems, cant tonight, but following radio back, oil temp back etc, should be able to troubleshoot better.   Dealer trip scheduled?  Check entire fuse box harness too, could have been twisted when reinstalled, under rt side cover.  Not sure about that assy switch, geez, I got to get one of those. What does it do, turn on the vibrating seat?

Rhino

Ron,

  Easy enough if it was still shorted, but it isn't.  It only shorted (or something) briefly and has not reoccurred - yet.  My zumo gets power from the accessory plug under the seat and power is turned on and off with the accessory toggle switch on the dash.  This also lost power during my episode...and no, there is no dealer visit scheduled as yet because I am deep into Canada in the midst of a 3000-3500 trip - which is why I am looking for trouble shooting assistance.  I have no manual with me, or schematics.  I have electrical repair tools with me...meter, connectors, ect. and some basic mechanical tools.  I am on my own with this for a while.  Closest HD dealer is about 500 miles away in Toronto...If it happens again and does not recover, then it is basic troubleshooting.  Just looking for a short cut if and when it happens.

Scott

[Rhino]

OK, this is where you do the ol fix it yourself thing.  In your spare time, when not being chased by 12 pound mosquitoes, take off seat, take off side covers, take off front fairing. Easy enough to do in a couple hours or so,  then turn on ignition and wiggle stuff to try and replicate. I would be suspect of any wiring runs, check to make sure connectors are clicked, check under frame, check fuse area, check near master, inspect any harnesses and wire runs for abraision. Look at wire run at rear of tank, see if it is pinched at all anywhere. Hopefully not needed to take off tank. But I would do the following: I would disconnect and reconnect every viable connector, there are not so many, and inspect it.

San, it can only be so much, I am thinking abraision. Did you do any electrical mods like assy sw, or the headlight mod? Whatever it is, it is not blowing fuses, so the current is very short.  I need to see what reset fuses there are, if any.  I will check tommorrow and see what I can see here, but that far away, I am guessing to. But hopefully, we ccan narrow it down, and you don't get stranded with those polar bear and mooses.

Rhino

Ron,

  Easy enough if it was still shorted, but it isn't.  It only shorted (or something) briefly and has not reoccurred - yet.  My zumo gets power from the accessory plug under the seat and power is turned on and off with the accessory toggle switch on the dash.  This also lost power during my episode...and no, there is no dealer visit scheduled as yet because I am deep into Canada in the midst of a 3000-3500 trip - which is why I am looking for trouble shooting assistance.  I have no manual with me, or schematics.  I have electrical repair tools with me...meter, connectors, ect. and some basic mechanical tools.  I am on my own with this for a while.  Closest HD dealer is about 500 miles away in Toronto...If it happens again and does not recover, then it is basic troubleshooting.  Just looking for a short cut if and when it happens.

Scott

[GasRat]

Rhino,
         How long do you think turn around should be if they go the new engine route?  I'm hopeing to be rideing it to hd-dude's grand opening on the 8th.

[sadunbar]

OK, this is where you do the ol fix it yourself thing.  In your spare time, when not being chased by 12 pound mosquitoes, take off seat, take off side covers, take off front fairing. Easy enough to do in a couple hours or so,  then turn on ignition and wiggle stuff to try and replicate. I would be suspect of any wiring runs, check to make sure connectors are clicked, check under frame, check fuse area, check near master, inspect any harnesses and wire runs for abraision. Look at wire run at rear of tank, see if it is pinched at all anywhere. Hopefully not needed to take off tank. But I would do the following: I would disconnect and reconnect every viable connector, there are not so many, and inspect it.

San, it can only be so much, I am thinking abraision. Did you do any electrical mods like assy sw, or the headlight mod? Whatever it is, it is not blowing fuses, so the current is very short.  I need to see what reset fuses there are, if any.  I will check tommorrow and see what I can see here, but that far away, I am guessing to. But hopefully, we ccan narrow it down, and you don't get stranded with those polar bear and mooses.

Rhino

Another 600 miles today....in Toronto now.... Oil leak at rear cylinder head only leaked a few drops today...almost nothing.  It has been chilly up until today.  The coolest days leaked the most oil, and today, almost 90, leaked virtually nothing.  Oil temps were around 190-195 when it leaked the most.  Oil temps were 230-250 today (90 degrees ambient - plus stop and go Toronto rush hour traffic).

My electrical gremlin only surfaced once today - for a few miles, the volume control for the radio (left handle bar control) did not work.  Then - started working again.  All else worked fine.  Beginning to think possibly the harness connection under the dash (under the main power switch)??  or the main power switch itself??  Or a chafed wire in this area??  At any rate, I've gone well over 1000 miles since it all shut off without any new problems.  At least all the important things are unaffected since then.  I know it didn't fix itself, but for now, I am going to leave well enough alone.

I have been thru these things before - if not me, then a traveling companion.  We always figure it out one way or the other.  But -if anyone recognizes the symptoms and has suggestions as to a root cause - I'd be interested in hearing your theory...

Scott

[miker]

well, it could have been something that had gotten soggy opr damp and is drying out...You can try spraying a good wd40 type stuff into the connectors when you can to see if the bug stays away.

Miker

[sadunbar]

Other then some morning dew - the bike hasn't been rained on or washed in a couple of weeks...  I think I have either chafed wires or a connection not seated...

but thanks for the thought...

Scott

[Rhino]

URGENT MESSAGE:  Have your riding partner immediately buy and install a Gremlin Bell as a gift at your next stop**

**must be received as a gift or it won't work

R.

Another 600 miles today....in Toronto now.... Oil leak at rear cylinder head only leaked a few drops today...almost nothing.  It has been chilly up until today.  The coolest days leaked the most oil, and today, almost 90, leaked virtually nothing.  Oil temps were around 190-195 when it leaked the most.  Oil temps were 230-250 today (90 degrees ambient - plus stop and go Toronto rush hour traffic).

My electrical gremlin only surfaced once today - for a few miles, the volume control for the radio (left handle bar control) did not work.  Then - started working again.  All else worked fine.  Beginning to think possibly the harness connection under the dash (under the main power switch)??  or the main power switch itself??  Or a chafed wire in this area??  At any rate, I've gone well over 1000 miles since it all shut off without any new problems.  At least all the important things are unaffected since then.  I know it didn't fix itself, but for now, I am going to leave well enough alone.

I have been thru these things before - if not me, then a traveling companion.  We always figure it out one way or the other.  But -if anyone recognizes the symptoms and has suggestions as to a root cause - I'd be interested in hearing your theory...

Scott

[deucedog]

When it comes to the electrical stuff, I am completely lost.  My Ultra did the same thing.  Have all the wiring related to the starter, relay, etc. checked out.  The dealer found a corroded ground.  Make sure you get the tech at the dealership who is sharp on the electrical stuff.

[GasRat]

You will be getting a NEW motor if your dealer is upright.  If not, demand to talk to the MOCO rep.   No oil pressure= Your oil pump is shot. For sure your crank is out closer to .030 instead of .0030.   That alone qualifies you for the motor.  Be there when they do it.  
Sorry to hear of your trials, but there is always a solution, although quite inconvenient. 

Rhino

 Suprise, Suprise.  The oil pump was shot,  they checked the run out,  a whopping .042.   I'm surprised it lasted this long.  New motor ordered, was told it should take "about a week" to get.  Hopefully this one will be better than the last.

[skreminegul07]

Suprise, Suprise.  The oil pump was shot,  they checked the run out,  a whopping .042.   I'm surprised it lasted this long.  New motor ordered, was told it should take "about a week" to get.  Hopefully this one will be better than the last.

Too bad Gas Rat.  I got HD to approve checking runout before rebuilding the top end in two weeks.  I was surprised that yours lasted 7000 miles.  I wonder if it gets worse over time.

Good luck with the new motor.  It's like a lottery, maybe you'll get a good one.

[GasRat]

I agree.  It shouldn't feel this way but your right,  I still have this feeling that I'm rolling the dice and hoping for a good one.  I guess only time will tell.  I should check to see if they're going to extend the factory warranty for the new engine to give it a full two years.  It sounds as though it will need it.

[Midnight Rider]

I agree.  It shouldn't feel this way but your right,  I still have this feeling that I'm rolling the dice and hoping for a good one.  I guess only time will tell.  I should check to see if they're going to extend the factory warranty for the new engine to give it a full two years.  It sounds as though it will need it.

If I'm not mistaken, the warranty will pick up where your old one left off, like any other "part" they replace.  They SHOULD give you another 2 year, but you'll be blue if you're holding your breath, I'm afraid.  It looks like on the 110's, unless they come out with a for sure fix, the best money anybody could spend would be on an extended warranty...   I hope you get a good one that lasts as long as you want it to...

[Chief]

Here's what we learned today. HD Tech Service is admitting there have been some problems with bad liners in the cylinders. UltraFXR had a bad liner on his. Half the battle is won when you admit you have a problem.

Decision is to replace both F&R cylinders, rings, o-rings and gaskets.

National backorder on cylinders, so repairs will have to wait until after Hot Springs.

Patient comes home tomorrow.

[skreminegul07]

Here's what we learned today. HD Tech Service is admitting there have been some problems with bad liners in the cylinders. UltraFXR had a bad liner on his. Half the battle is won when you admit you have a problem.

Decision is to replace both F&R cylinders, rings, o-rings and gaskets.

National backorder on cylinders, so repairs will have to wait until after Hot Springs.

Patient comes home tomorrow.

Chief,
Did you ask how will you know the replacement cylinders are good?  I'm just asking the obvious which I'm sure has gone thru your mind also.
Mine goes in on 9/10 for the same treatment.
I'll update as it happpens.

[Chief]

Chief,
Did you ask how will you know the replacement cylinders are good?  I'm just asking the obvious which I'm sure has gone thru your mind also.
Mine goes in on 9/10 for the same treatment.
I'll update as it happpens.

I think the way they test the cylinders is to put them on the bike and send you on your way. If you come back with a leak, they're no good.

This is the manner in which Harley does all of their development testing, so I would assume replacement part testing is probably accomplished the same way.

[Rhino]

Suprise, Suprise.  The oil pump was shot,  they checked the run out,  a whopping .042.   I'm surprised it lasted this long.  New motor ordered, was told it should take "about a week" to get.  Hopefully this one will be better than the last.

Congratulations.  This is a good thing.
Rhino

[grc]

Here's what we learned today. HD Tech Service is admitting there have been some problems with bad liners in the cylinders. UltraFXR had a bad liner on his. Half the battle is won when you admit you have a problem.

Decision is to replace both F&R cylinders, rings, o-rings and gaskets.

National backorder on cylinders, so repairs will have to wait until after Hot Springs.

Patient comes home tomorrow.

Chief,

What exactly did they say was wrong with the liners? 

Jerry

[Chief]

Chief,

What exactly did they say was wrong with the liners? 

Jerry

As I understand it, they have seen some 110 cylinders where the liner has separated from the casting. At operating temperature the separation probably becomes an oil passage. At the elevated temperatures we're running, I can understand that separation getting pretty big at the temps we're getting on the rear jugs.

They probably look fine when they're cold. Stick them in an oven at 400 degrees and you'll probably get oil dripping out between the sleeve and casting.

None os this is fact, just my backseat analysis.