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[REGGAB]

A couple months back, FR8TRN posted about a Gentleman in Delaware, Jim Bissonette, who is making cables which allow those of us who use the ZUMO to take advantage of the Bluetooth cellphone feature via our H-D Intercom and headset.  Jim's website is http://home.comcast.net/~jbissonette1/site/.  Alot of us balked at having to drill a hole in our fairing cap in order to use his device, so he came up with an alternative, and now has it listed on his website.  Using the Accessory switch, one can now make and receive cellular phone calls on the road.  The only downfall is, the Accessory switch cannot be used for anything else.  No big deal for me, since I don't use it for anything else anyway.  I bought one of Jim's cables ($45.00 shipped to my door) and installed it this afternoon.  Took about three hours, and that's with me being very meticulous (read:  NORMAL  ) in every detail, making staggered solder splices when I could, double heat shrinking, and following with fusion tape, split loom, avionics lacing string, and electrical tie wraps.  I got caught up in the work, and didn't take many pictures, but I'll do the best I can to explain what I did.  Further, Jim's instructions are attached to this post.

[REGGAB]

Here is a picture of Jim's cable and a copy of the instructions (6 pages-first page shown).

[REGGAB]

Find connector 105 (right side of fairing next to right fork tube), and disconnect 105A (to fairing cap switches) and 105B.  On the 105 B side, extract pins 2 and 3, and label accordingly.

[REGGAB]

Next, disconnect 28 from the rear of the radio (as you look at the rear of the radio, it is the big connector on the right) and completely remove the split loom.  Find the wires that go to pins 9 and 20 and identify them accordingly.

[REGGAB]

Next, stagger cut Jim's cable on the switch side (blue and black wires) and duplicate the stagger on the 105 wires identified earlier by stripping a 3/8" section of each wire to match the stagger in Jim's cable.  It is best to put the stripped end of Jim's cable toward the back of 105, since that will be the orientation once assembled.  Tin each stripped section of wire, solder the blue wire to the orange wire (105-2), and the black wire to the black wire (105-3).  Slide heat shrink over each solder splice, and shrink.  Slide a larger piece of heat shrink over both splices and shrink.  Should look like this when finished.

[REGGAB]

Reinsert pins 2 and 3 in 105B.  Reconnect 105A and 105B and apply fusion tape to the wires which were exposed on the B side.  Run the 2.5mm connector from Jim's cable to your Zumo, insert it in the top receptacle on the mount and tie wrap into place, like this.

[REGGAB]

Next, move to connector 28, and cut the wires identified earlier.  Strip each end 1/4" and tin.  Tin each of the remaining four wires (yellow, white, green, and brown) of Jim's cable.  Slide a 2" length of heat shrink over all four of the remaining wires of Jim's cable.  Install a 3/4" length of heat shrink onto each of the remaining four wires of Jim's cable.  Make the following solder splices:

Yellow to black going into main harness (headset)
White to black going into 28
Green to red going into main harness (headset)
Brown to red going into 28

Slide the previously installed 3/4" lengths of heat shrink over each splice and shrink.  Should look like this when finished.

[REGGAB]

Slide the 2" length of heat shrink over all four splices you just made and shrink.  Now would be a good time to make an operational check.  I called HogBreath, and he said he could barely hear me.  Switched headsets, called home, loud and clear.  Once you are satisfied that everything works, bundle everything up.

[REGGAB]

And...........just because the Ditch Pickle is so beautiful, here's one final shot once I got everything put back together.

This task is not at all complicated.  Sure, you can use butt splices, but that is not my chosen method.  Very inexpensive alternative to gain a nice capability.  Enjoy.

[bissjim]

Henry you did an excellent installation, nice pictures. 

Jim

[REGGAB]

I haven't road tested this installation yet, since the weather is quite crappy here in North Alabama, but I already know that I will be able to hear phone conversations well.  And, after speaking with both Renea and Jim during test calls, the other end will be able to hear me as well.  I suppose most of us who have had anything to do with J&M (like purchasing their shorty antennas) have received their latest catalog.  I've since put mine in the round file, but I recall a similar device, much more complicated, and much more expensive (over $300) in that catalog.  Jim Bissonette makes a very fine alternative and will save you over $250 in the process.  And the installation is not at all difficult if you have some soldering skills.  It is most helpful if you have a Weller gun with a large tip (flows solder better than a solder pencil.....which is designed for detail board work anyway), a tub of flux, and a damp kitchen sponge to remove the oxidation from the solder gun tip.  Once soldered, slide the heat shrink over the joint and use a narrow nose Weller heat gun set to 650* to shrink the heat shrink.  Doesn't take but a few seconds at that temp to shrink the tubing, so be careful, or you could flow the solder and end up with a cold, weak solder joint that will come loose over time.  Send email to Jim at jbissonette1@comcast.net if you are interested in installing his cable on your ZUMO equipped machine.   

[REGGAB]

Henry you did an excellent installation, nice pictures. 

Jim

Thanks, Jim, and welcome to CVO Harley!  Glad to have you on board.  You might want to go to the New Member Introduction board at http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?board=30.0 and make a formal introduction so everyone knows who you are.  Further, since you are the designer and manufacturer of this device, you might want to contact Naitram via Private Message and see if he can set you up as a vendor.

[sadunbar]

Great job describing the installation, Henry...

I won't be following you on this one, though.... one of my goals and pleasures of riding includes not having to talk to anyone!   

Camaraderie with solitude!   

[REGGAB]

Great job describing the installation, Henry...

I won't be following you on this one, though.... one of my goals and pleasures of riding includes not having to talk to anyone!   

Camaraderie with solitude!   

Caller ID is wonderful.  My main reason for acquisition is Stef.  Peace of mind.   

[sadunbar]

Caller ID is wonderful.  My main reason for acquisition is Stef.  Peace of mind.   

yep... 

[bissjim]

Further, since you are the designer and manufacturer of this device, you might want to contact Naitram via Private Message and see if he can set you up as a vendor.

I'm still up in the air about advertising as a vendor on sites. I have my web page to refer people to if they are interested for information. It is not a .com site so you would not find it on a search. I started all this about 6 months ago and did not know how many people would want one of the cables. I'm retired and make them up in my basement. If I'm not careful this thing could get out of hand and I could find myself working again. LOL

Jim

[woode]

This sounds like a good solution to having two headsets in my helmet!  Here are my concerns:

1.  Would this void the warranty on the electrical system?
2.  Can this be done by the average boob?  I've managed to do a few simple mods (like the George Anderson TP relocator), but I'm the kind of guy that inevitably strips the threads off of bolts and other such side effects.  I would hate to ruin my beautiful, mortgaged bike just to be able to answer a phone call.  It looks complicated in the photos, what with the batwing stripped naked with all of its guts hanging out.
3.  Will I be sorry to be losing my Auxiliary switch?  What might I want/need to use it for in the future?

Any thoughts from the CVO brain trust?

Ed

[bissjim]

1.   Anything you do to a bike can be used as an excuse by the service people to void your warranty. Will it?    Probable not since they would have to prove the modification was responsible for the failure of a part.

2.   Most people would be able to handle this mod as the directions I think are easy to follow and they come with color pictures. Now that being said mistakes can always happen and it’s a good idea to have help if you’re the type of person that tries to loosen a bolt by turning it clockwise. I know of service techs that get it wrong because they think they know more then the person who put the directions together and choose to ignore them or they just plain don’t follow the directions.

3.   The Auxiliary Switch is used for things such as extra lights and probable other things. If you don’t want to loose your Auxiliary Switch get the model that comes with its own switch. The draw back with that is that you have to drill a hole and mount the switch.

Jim

[woode]

Jim,

Thanks for the information.  I really would like to do this, but I worry about the unknown.  Your instructions presume a certail level of knowledge - like taking apart the fairing.  I wouldn't have a clue & would be afraid that I would ruin it in the process.

Should I be afraid?

Ed

[bissjim]

If you have not done so already download the direction at:
 http://home.comcast.net/~jbissonette1/site/

Scroll down you will find the directions under the pictures in Yellow. Take a look at them and determine for yourself if it's a project that is within your abilities.

Taking the fairind apart is no big deal if you have the maintenance manual but even if you don't all it requires is that you remove the headlight, remove a few screws under the light, remove the windshield by removing the 3 screws in front of the shield and removing 4 other scews holding the front of the fairing on. I usually loosen the passing lights and drop them out of the way.

Having a friend with some ability helping makes things easier.

Doing anything requires some know how and certain abilities, if you think it's best to leave it alone then don't do it, find someone who can help.

[woode]

I'm happy to report that I've successfully installed this modification without destroying the bike.  It did, however, take all day to do it, because every step was a learning experience.  I was able to remove the fairing without destroying it, locate the correct cables on the harness, and make all of the right connections.  Some observations...

* There was very little slack cable on  the harness to work with, so not much room for error
* I should have practiced my soldering techniques before applying them to the harness.  Very sloppy.
* There ain't a lot of space under the fairing, so the wiring bundles have to be arranged well for the fairing to be replaced without crimping.

After all connections were made, and before the bike was reassembled, I tried making a call from the garage.  My wife could barely hear me.  So, it was too late to do anything else, so I put everything back together.  I tried again, and she could actually hear and understand me.  So, with my spirits bolstered, I made a test from the road at neighborhood speeds, and she claimed to hear me well.  The next day, I tried again from the garage, and again - she heard me faintly.  But, then I fired up the bike, and called her at 75 MPH, and she heard me well - in fact I was speaking to her in a normal conversational voice.  I'm not sure why it works better with the engine running, but that's when I need it to work anyway.  So, I'm considering it a success, and I'm officially dumping my bluetooth headset.

Ed

[bissjim]

Like I said in my email to you this morning Ed, I think that you have a bad connection with the cell tower when you are in the garage. That's the only thing that makes sense to me. 

I am happy     if you are happy    and you now have the experience and know how to remove the fairing if you ever want to. 

Jim

[REGGAB]

I'm happy to report that I've successfully installed this modification without destroying the bike.  It did, however, take all day to do it, because every step was a learning experience.  I was able to remove the fairing without destroying it, locate the correct cables on the harness, and make all of the right connections.  Some observations...

* There was very little slack cable on  the harness to work with, so not much room for error
* I should have practiced my soldering techniques before applying them to the harness.  Very sloppy.
* There ain't a lot of space under the fairing, so the wiring bundles have to be arranged well for the fairing to be replaced without crimping.

After all connections were made, and before the bike was reassembled, I tried making a call from the garage.  My wife could barely hear me.  So, it was too late to do anything else, so I put everything back together.  I tried again, and she could actually hear and understand me.  So, with my spirits bolstered, I made a test from the road at neighborhood speeds, and she claimed to hear me well.  The next day, I tried again from the garage, and again - she heard me faintly.  But, then I fired up the bike, and called her at 75 MPH, and she heard me well - in fact I was speaking to her in a normal conversational voice.  I'm not sure why it works better with the engine running, but that's when I need it to work anyway.  So, I'm considering it a success, and I'm officially dumping my bluetooth headset.

Ed

Congratulations, Ed!  Way to go!  It really isn't difficult at all, is it.  Great so see you did not let the task intimidate you and that you were able to get it done with acceptable results.  That has got to feel great to ya Man.  Awesome.   

[sportygordy]

Congratulations, Ed!  Way to go!  It really isn't difficult at all, is it.  Great so see you did not let the task intimidate you and that you were able to get it done with acceptable results.  That has got to feel great to ya Man.  Awesome.   

Getting ready to try one of these and Jim's sites state he no longer is selling due to legal issues. Whats going on with that?

[sportygordy]

Like I said in my email to you this morning Ed, I think that you have a bad connection with the cell tower when you are in the garage. That's the only thing that makes sense to me. 

I am Happy    if you are happy    and you now have the experience and know how to remove the fairing if you ever want to. 

Jim

Jim,,

Just curious, who is the company that thinks you are infringing?

[bissjim]

I can’t mention the company as we are still talking. I know they do not own electronic circuitry and that is what they are contending, that a part of the circuit in the new hands free design is similar to theirs. Well I have news for them….You can find parts in a Ford that are similar to parts in a Chevy….     What the H#&&!

If I don’t hear something this week I’m going to offer the old design that uses the Auxiliary Switch on my web site and see what happens.

Jim

[woode]

I can’t mention the company as we are still talking. I know they do not own electronic circuitry and that is what they are contending, that a part of the circuit in the new hands free design is similar to theirs. Well I have news for them….You can find parts in a Ford that are similar to parts in a Chevy….     What the H#&&!

If I don’t hear something this week I’m going to offer the old design that uses the Auxiliary Switch on my web site and see what happens.

Jim

Jim,

Just looked at your website to see what everyone is talking about.  What is the product being contested?  On your website, you say it is the "new hands free cable."  Should I have waited before cutting into my wiring harness for the Auxiliary switch cable?  How do the products differ?  I don't recall seeing a different product when I ordered in March (other than one that required cutting a hole in the fairing for an on/off switch).  How does this new one differ?

Ed
 

[bissjim]

The new design was not available when you ordered. I was working on another design because some people were having issues with a sensitive microphone. This issue was due to the type of cell phone they have. Some cell phones with Bluetooth technology have very poor quality (not all cell phones are created equal) and I designed a new circuit that helped with this problem. The new design incorporated a tuning screw and some electronic circuitry which basically allowed the user to adjust the volume of the stock microphone and reduced the signal to the Zumo's microphone input. By doing this the cell phone’s Bluetooth was able to deliver a clearer speech pattern to the caller. I won’t go into how this was done as that is the issue being debated at present.  I really should not have even tried this solution as I was trying to improve the quality of poor Bluetooth circuits employed by some cell phone manufactures so the user did not have to go out and buy a better phone.

It differed in that you did not have to use the Auxiliary Switch or drill a hole as the other two designs I had. No switch, just answer the call and talk, it also allowed the passenger to hear the conversation.

A better mouse trap so to speak, but it looks like I will have to drop it because I really do not have the money to fight this, I already spent more then I wanted on this. I’m not getting rich on this in the first place and I have already spent all the money I have made on these cables plus some of my own. Being retired I simply can’t afford it.

How they found out about it is another thing....I think I know but I better keep it to myself or I may end up being sued as I can not prove it.

[WFP]

Too bad since it sounded perfect for what I wanted which is that the BSR could use the phone if needed.

/Bill

The new design was not available when you ordered. I was working on another design because some people were having issues with a sensitive microphone. This issue was due to the type of cell phone they have. Some cell phones with Bluetooth technology have very poor quality (not all cell phones are created equal) and I designed a new circuit that helped with this problem. The new design incorporated a tuning screw and some electronic circuitry which basically allowed the user to adjust the volume of the stock microphone and reduced the signal to the Zumo's microphone input. By doing this the cell phone’s Bluetooth was able to deliver a clearer speech pattern to the caller. I won’t go into how this was done as that is the issue being debated at present.  I really should not have even tried this solution as I was trying to improve the quality of poor Bluetooth circuits employed by some cell phone manufactures so the user did not have to go out and buy a better phone.

It differed in that you did not have to use the Auxiliary Switch or drill a hole as the other two designs I had. No switch, just answer the call and talk, it also allowed the passenger to hear the conversation.

A better mouse trap so to speak, but it looks like I will have to drop it because I really do not have the money to fight this, I already spent more then I wanted on this. I’m not getting rich on this in the first place and I have already spent all the money I have made on these cables plus some of my own. Being retired I simply can’t afford it.

How they found out about it is another thing....I think I know but I better keep it to myself or I may end up being sued as I can not prove it.

[woode]

The new design was not available ...

Well, it would have been nice to not dedicate the Aux switch for this, but that said, it works, and seems to work well so far.  So, no regrets.

I have found one issue, however, that I think may be related to the install.  I bought a Harley-compatible headset for my wife - IMC Motorcom (HS-30H, I believe).  It was half the cost of the H-D headset, and sounded better in the passenger connection.  So, I tried it in the rider connection to see if I wanted to use it instead of the H-D headset, and it had horrible noise & static.  Since the H-D headset was fine, and the IMC worked OK on the rear connector, I can only assume that it was the mod that was the culprit.  Any ideas?

Ed

[sportygordy]

The new design was not available when you ordered. I was working on another design because some people were having issues with a sensitive microphone. This issue was due to the type of cell phone they have. Some cell phones with Bluetooth technology have very poor quality (not all cell phones are created equal) and I designed a new circuit that helped with this problem. The new design incorporated a tuning screw and some electronic circuitry which basically allowed the user to adjust the volume of the stock microphone and reduced the signal to the Zumo's microphone input. By doing this the cell phone’s Bluetooth was able to deliver a clearer speech pattern to the caller. I won’t go into how this was done as that is the issue being debated at present.  I really should not have even tried this solution as I was trying to improve the quality of poor Bluetooth circuits employed by some cell phone manufactures so the user did not have to go out and buy a better phone.

It differed in that you did not have to use the Auxiliary Switch or drill a hole as the other two designs I had. No switch, just answer the call and talk, it also allowed the passenger to hear the conversation.

A better mouse trap so to speak, but it looks like I will have to drop it because I really do not have the money to fight this, I already spent more then I wanted on this. I'm not getting rich on this in the first place and I have already spent all the money I have made on these cables plus some of my own. Being retired I simply can't afford it.

How they found out about it is another thing....I think I know but I better keep it to myself or I may end up being sued as I can not prove it.

Sounds like their scare tactic might work. You should let us know who this company is. I know of two other companies offering a similar product (there may be more but im just not aware of them). One is J&M Audio the other is Kennedy Technologies and both of their products are so ridiculously priced most wont even consider buying them. Your product is priced fair and i think that is what they are worried about. Your offering a product that works at 90% less then other selfish bastards are offering. I wish you would share who they are, so i can choose not to give them any of my future business. If your attorney says you are safe then sell it. Let the other guy take you to court so you can counter sue the hell out em.. 

[bissjim]

The cable was designed for the Harley Headset; it's possible the IMC has different impedance. Just a thought since I don’t have an IMC to test this.

I started working on a new design a few weeks ago when this all came about just in case. It is also a hand’s free, no switch design and I have so far perfected the idea. I still have to make up a prototype and test it on the bike at highway speeds.

It looks promising at the moment as pre-trials with the engine running was good. The speech quality is very good according to the people I called. I still have a few more details to figure out.

The only draw-back I see now is that you have to give up the coiled headset cable for a straight cord. I'm still looking into this but it would be costly to rectify.

[bissjim]

My lawyer called late yesterday.     Long story short I'm not going to be using the contested electronic circuit.    I spent way more money   on this then I want so I'm going to drop it.

I started offering the switched design again on my site and I'm working on a new design that does not even remotly resemble anything on this planet or any other planet in this solar system. I can't speak for the rest of the galaxy!

Thanks for your support on this. 

http://home.comcast.net/~jbissonette1/site/

Jim