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[hdnut]

Thanks I will go check that right away! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

[hdnut]

Checked all the plugs on the throttle body,none felt loose? [smiley=nixweiss.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

[UK Dave]

I had the same code showing up - PO113 - I would clear the code and it would keep coming back after I ran the bike for a bit.  

Checked the connection - didn't seem loose or anything so I unplugged the connector (to the Intake Air Temp sensor) and reconnected it - et voila - no problem codes anymore

Hoo-Ray [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]

Cheers

Dave

[hdnut]

I will try that UK Dave ,Thank's for all Your help Guy's,this site is the best! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

[hd-dude]

Pick up some dielectric grease to put on the connector when you reinstall it. If that is the problem it will prevent the connector from corroding

[UK Dave]

Update

I have my trouble codes back again  

This may be due to the other problem I have had of the A/F mounting screws which snapped.

I jury rigged the filter back on with ty-raps (and have been too lazy to install the replacement bolts so kindly supplied FoC by Zippers) which worked just fine but this could be allowing the whole thing to vibrate a bit too much which could be disturbing the connection (of the Air Temp Sensor)

Job for the weekend I think - it's gonna be wet here so no riding on Saturday.

Cheers

Dave

[flhse]

My 04 started showing this code while in Rapid City earlier this month.  It set about 3 times, each time I cleared it out it would seem to eventually come back.  I thought it might be from hard riding in high temps that we had out there, but I'm thinking maybe not now.  The wiring and everything seemed ok, so it might take more that a basic look over.  Remember there are 2 ends to that wire, either end could be the issue as well as the sensor.  

If you find anything, let us know.  I'll be out all next week on the Candy ride, I'll see if it sets in the cooler weather then.

Brad

[UK Dave]

The bike was in for dyno tune today but we couldn't complete the runs because the darned P0113 code started to show again and this screwed the AFR

This after like 6 months of no problems. 

Will strip out the connectors (again) and try to make a better connection

We think it happened on the dyno because the front wheel is clamped and this sets up different vibes to normal street running - any thoughts anyone?

Cheers

Dave

[flhse]

Just going to add to this post, I found that the wires had been stressed and broke at the connector for the AIT.  I had to replace both wires for a few inches up the harness.  I don't know why the wires on this particular sensor became stressed, but was easy to find once I started to look. 

Also, much to my suprise, I found the nut had fallen off the upper stabilizer where it attached to the motor mount.  It appeared they used too short of a bolt.      The nylon lock nut would not go on far enough to lock it.  I got another longer bolt that the new nylon lock actually would make it on the threads to  lock it.  Bike does not shake as much now either.

Another high quality assembly.  Besides the shifter linkage falling off, what is next? 

Brad   

Heading to TN for the High Octane ride soon   

[UK Dave]

Hi flhse - mine turned out to be the exact same problem, the conductors of one of the wires were broken within the insulation about an inch up from the connector - as you say easy to see once you start looking for that - the cable looks a bit thinner and "floppy" where the copper cores are broken.

I finally tracked it down when no amount of playing around with the connectors would get rid of the error code

I cut the connector off at the break and pieced in two lengths of wire (soldered and heat-shrink wrapped the joints) and there has been no problem since.

I also noticed the other day the front engine mount bolt was completely loose

It's behind the oil cooler and under the regulator so it's not that easy to see and only spotted it while doing a real good clean of that area.

Oil cooler off (leave the pipes connected) and regulator loosened right off and I could get in to tighten-up the mount bolt. (Item 4 in the diagram)

Just another thing to keep checking I guess

Cheers

Dave

[hdnut]

My seeg is giving off the same code again so I am going to have to check all the wires to the sensor!

[UK Dave]

Hi hdnut

When you are checking, once you have uncoupled the connector from the sensor in the air manifold, give the connector a good steady pull - this will stretch the cables a little and if you have the same problem I and flhse had you will notice the insulation on one leg will stretch more where the wire core is broken.

Good Luck!!

Cheers

Dave

[hdnut]

I will try that UK Dave.Thank You!

[flhse]

Only one of the wires were broke on mine to begin with, by the time I fixed theat wire the other had broke.  So I thought I was done, and had to do the other wire after I had the tank back on.  You can reomve the 3 bolts holding the tank, release the quick disconect fuel line and raise the tank to access the wires.  Use a 2x3 or something to hold the tank up.  The terminals are removed from the connector with a safety pin, they are a pull to seat, which means they come out the front of the connector.  I used new terminals and put them on new wires, pulled them into the connector and spliced them into the good wire a couple inches up.  Its not easy, so tight with the harness length and protective coverings.

Good luck.

Brad

[hdnut]

Well I went to the dealer for first come first serve service on Saturday and had them fix the short in the air temp. sensor. Took the tech. about 2 and a half hours to fix the problem and I told him what to look for. They only charged me $80.25 to fix it and that included two new air cleaner breather hoses that were cracked. No more check engine light and me and the misses are going on a long ride today to take advantage of the great fall weather we are having ! Thanks for all the help, you guys are great!