Topic: Speaker + and - (Read 2692 times)

Highjagger · « **on:** November 09, 2009, 04:36:54 PM »

Which is + and which is - from the stock wire of the audio , the infinitys do not have a plug and play version , there is a + and a - at the speakers.
Thy also have a switch for 0db or -3db , one can choose . Which would you choose (say is best?) ?

jimsmith94 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2009, 08:55:57 PM »

As a 40-year professional musician, I can say the plus and minus on speakers don't matter. However, DO be sure that you wire both/all of the speakers the same or they will be out of phase. Out of phase will cause less bass and volume.

The DB switch is probably for your preference of how loud you want the amp to be, but I'm not 100% sure.

hd-dude · « **Reply #2 on:** November 09, 2009, 10:16:41 PM »

I respectfully disagree with the above. While not a professional musician I did spend many years in the car audio industry doing many many award winning installations. I also have very high end home audio equipment. The polarity of the speaker is critical as the cone of the speaker moves inward or outward based on this. If a speakers polarity is reversed the cone will pull inward instead of outward. This is most apparrent with low frequencies. You are correct with speakers both being the same. If you have, for example, the left correct and the right reversed the speakers will cancel each other out and result in very poor low frequency response (out of phase).

To answer your question though...the smaller of the female spade lugs on the HD wires are positives. From memory they are the white and gray wires for the front. There is a trace color on them as well and I do not remember the colors for those of the top of my head.

The DB switch is typically to cut the high frequencies by the specified amount. For the bike I would run them out "0" they will be louder than the -3 setting

Highjagger · « **Reply #3 on:** November 09, 2009, 11:57:10 PM »

The smaller is the + ,
The bigger is -.
That`s i wanted to hear , Thank you very much .
The new infinity speakers have 2 ohm , what would happen when i would run them with the stock radio (without additional amp)?
Would the speakers be damaged or the radio ?

Harleypingman · « **Reply #4 on:** November 10, 2009, 12:34:30 AM »

The Harman Kardon radio and your speakers have matching ohm rating; you're fine.

If you scroll down the catalogs listed in this link, you will find the manual for your bike is available in German language:

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448769184&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302491575&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302491575&bmUID=1257831420569&bmLocale=en_US

Which may be helpful if English isn't your first language.

Highjagger · « **Reply #5 on:** November 10, 2009, 12:39:37 AM »

Is it possible and ok to take the + and ground from the Cigarette lighter , for the amp (bazooka needs a seperate + and ground connection) ?

LarryB · « **Reply #6 on:** November 10, 2009, 07:45:18 AM »

klaus, take that positive wire to the battery and ground from the frame in the fairing

Highjagger · « **Reply #7 on:** November 10, 2009, 07:56:11 AM »

I will try , wish me a good luck ,
or could you post a pic of the battery connection ? ( would be helpful , i am a dumbass in these things )

LarryB · « **Reply #8 on:** November 10, 2009, 08:28:57 AM »

the + red battery connection

jimsmith94 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 10, 2009, 12:28:16 PM »

Quote from: hd-dude on November 09, 2009, 10:16:41 PM

The polarity of the speaker is critical as the cone of the speaker moves inward or outward based on this. If a speakers polarity is reversed the cone will pull inward instead of outward. This is most apparrent with low frequencies.

While your statement is true for the initial "pulse" of a note, musical sound is comprised of sine waves, so they push and pull equally. As long as the speakers are in phase, it doesn't matter which way they move first. That said, I always connect plus to plus when they are marked. If not, I touch a 9 volt battery to the terminals to get them connected the same.

Ride-Loud · « **Reply #10 on:** November 11, 2009, 11:43:50 AM »

The + is the big male connector and the - is the small male connector.

As for the amp, I'd run a hot wire straight to the battery and your ground, either to the frame or to the battery also. And don't forget the blue remote wire, also. This wire should be wired directly from the stereo to the amp. This wire turns the amp on when the stereo is turned on.

If your hooking up an amp, I wouldn't worry about the stock - or the +. Just wire the amp to the speakers and match the - and + wire. Most speaker wire has a stripe on it. I usually use the stripe as the positive. So, if you put the striped wire in the + and the nonstriped in the -. Do the same in the speaker.

And the little tap on the tweeter? push it in.

Hope this helps you out!

Highjagger · « **Reply #11 on:** November 11, 2009, 12:12:39 PM »

The tap on the tweeter means -3db . i tried first with not tapped at 0db , but i guess that it will run better with the tap

I don`t have a seperate blue remote wire to the stock radio , maybe it is included in the fast wire from bazooka .
When ignition is on then the amp LED is green . Little sizzling through the speakers when stock audio is off and ignition is on .
bazooka gain at half , filter at full . Little inteferences whenpulling the volume . now i reduced the bass and the highs at about -3 .
Will have to test it out what`s best .

LarryB · « **Reply #12 on:** November 11, 2009, 03:02:36 PM »

Quote from: Ride-Loud on November 11, 2009, 11:43:50 AM

The + is the big male connector and the - is the small male connector.

As for the amp, I'd run a hot wire straight to the battery and your ground, either to the frame or to the battery also. And don't forget the blue remote wire, also. This wire should be wired directly from the stereo to the amp. This wire turns the amp on when the stereo is turned on.

If your hooking up an amp, I wouldn't worry about the stock - or the +. Just wire the amp to the speakers and match the - and + wire. Most speaker wire has a stripe on it. I usually use the stripe as the positive. So, if you put the striped wire in the + and the nonstriped in the -. Do the same in the speaker.

And the little tap on the tweeter? push it in.

James, he's running the same setup as I am, and yes, he has ride loud. I did not push in anything on my speakers. What button are you speaking of?

Hope this helps you out!

Highjagger · « **Reply #13 on:** November 11, 2009, 03:54:33 PM »

On the front of the tweeter

Quote

I did not push in anything on my speakers. What button are you speaking of?

push means -3db . not push means 0db .

Ride-Loud · « **Reply #14 on:** November 12, 2009, 08:47:56 AM »

When ignition is on then the amp LED is green . Little sizzling through the speakers when stock audio is off and ignition is on .
bazooka gain at half , filter at full . Little inteferences when pulling the volume . now i reduced the bass and the highs at about -3 .
Will have to test it out what`s best .
[/quote]

That little sizzling that you're talking about, you might wanna check your ground and/or your RCA connectors. The RCA's are the wires that connect the stereo to the amp. Sometimes they will giggle lose and you get some interference.

LarryB · « **Reply #15 on:** November 12, 2009, 01:48:33 PM »

I'd look hard at the ground

OhioDave · « **Reply #16 on:** November 13, 2009, 06:52:48 PM »

Quote from: hd-dude on November 09, 2009, 10:16:41 PM

I respectfully disagree with the above. While not a professional musician I did spend many years in the car audio industry doing many many award winning installations. I also have very high end home audio equipment. The polarity of the speaker is critical as the cone of the speaker moves inward or outward based on this. If a speakers polarity is reversed the cone will pull inward instead of outward. This is most apparrent with low frequencies. You are correct with speakers both being the same. If you have, for example, the left correct and the right reversed the speakers will cancel each other out and result in very poor low frequency response (out of phase).

To answer your question though...the smaller of the female spade lugs on the HD wires are positives. From memory they are the white and gray wires for the front. There is a trace color on them as well and I do not remember the colors for those of the top of my head.

The DB switch is typically to cut the high frequencies by the specified amount. For the bike I would run them out "0" they will be louder than the -3 setting

I spent 10+ years in the car audio business myself and i would have to agree with the above.

MD-Dave · « **Reply #17 on:** November 13, 2009, 07:34:07 PM »

Klaus. Any luck getting rid of the sizzle?

Highjagger · « **Reply #18 on:** November 14, 2009, 03:13:09 AM »

Not yet , still there when the audio is off , but i do not really worry about because it is really a very silent sizzle .
I will check the ground from the amp to the fairing mount screw again when i will remove the fairing again .
I also have to check whether the sound at high volume will improve when i would switch the (i guess "filter"-switch is it named on the side of the bazooka-amp) to "half" instead of "full" (like i use it now).
I also pushed the -3db knob and think it is better now .
And i reduced the bass and Highs at only 4 lines at the stock audio .
I am able to hear the music clear upto 90mph .
Any speed faster , the music is still to hear but not really very clearly .
I guess that i will have to do some adjustment-test till it is perfect .

LarryB · « **Reply #19 on:** November 14, 2009, 07:01:20 AM »

Klaus, like I said in the PM, without an input, there is going to be some static from the amp through the speakers, but once you aplly an input, radio/cd/ipod, it goes away

Author Topic: Speaker + and - (Read 2692 times)