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[cmashark]

I posted this in another forum, but wanted to share it here, also.

So, if you saw my earlier thread, I test Road a 107 bike that had the 114 stage 3 installed and thought it wasn't too bad of an upgrade. Well, I have since had the stage 117 kit installed on my 2017 bike and have to say that I am impressed. An all HD upgrade that actually performs!

When cruising or just riding easy, the bike feels just like it did with the stock 114, but (now that I have a couple hundred miles on it) beating it, the clutch feels like it may need some help. Super aggressive throttle and letting go of the clutch while going from 1-2 and 3-4, I had the front tire bounce/bob/lift/ect off the ground. It was around 50 degrees so, I guess it could have been the rear tire losing grip. I'm sure I'll try it again when it's a bit warmer. I really think that if the clutch needs anything, an AIM SDR will probably be enough.

Hard throttle from 2-3K felt the same as stock, but 3-5500 was greatly improved. I am really surprised how well this all HD set up works.

Street Cannons with stock head pipe: They sound really nice on the 117. In fact, I could tell a difference, in sound, between the non-CVO 114 and the CVO117. They sounded better, to me on the bigger engine, but I still liked them on the non-CVO 114. I've heard they don't sound as well on a stock 107, though. Maybe it's the cam or compression that brings these to life. I would really like to hear them with a FM headpipe.

Adjustable pushrods: now, stock my bike was a lot quieter than any twin cam that I have ever had. With the adjustable pushrods and the stage 3 parts, my top end is whisper quiet.

Below, in quotations, is the money part and my reasoning for going with the stage 3 vs the stage 4-I posted it in a different thread, but thought it needed to be here too. YMMV

"All told, the ballpark was 6K. Stage 4, adjustable pushrods, new crank and cam bolts, spacer kit, tuner, high flow exhaust (header and mufflers), labor, and dyno time. Taxes here are around 9.25, also.

I ended up going with the stage 3 for two reasons: 1. I saw no real value in the stage 4. If you're chasing numbers either set of heads would need to be reworked. The high flow exhaust limits your muffler selection. The stage 4 cam is a poor choice for my riding style. 2. The stage 4 kit needed a 2 week lead time, for ordering. The stage 3 kit was shipped and at the dealer in 2 days waiting for the bike to be dropped off.

The stage 3 cost me 42xx (with a 10 inch windsplitter, so -160'ish)"

Chris

[spook120]

Are you saying the stage 3 kit cost you $4200+ out the door?

[cmashark]

Yep.

[spook120]

I must be missing something. The stage 3 kit is around $1600. Not sure what labor would be but wondering out loud where rest of cost came from in the build?  Glad your bike turned out well. Thanks.

[cmashark]

I could have shaved about 500 off if I didn't want to pay for the bike to be tuned on the dyno. Oh, and 169 should be omitted for the wind splitter (purchased at the same time, but not dealer installed).
1596 for the kit
15 for the spacer and sprocket bolts
200 for adjustable pushrods
450 for mufflers
150 for muffler tips
12 for Torrington's cam bearing (it's not part of the kit)
299 for the tuner
1456 labor to install kit and dyno tune(dyno tune is not included in the kit.)
-military discount

[spook120]

Thank you for the break down of costs involved. I am now officially depressed! I will see what my local dealer comes up with by weeks end. Gulp....

[cmashark]

The dyno tune may not be necessary.  The amount of change they can do with the new tuner is very limited.  I need to copy the tune out of my bike and compare it to the canned map that HD provides for this kit.

[CVOSGJoe]

I would be very interested in knowing what the Dyno provided as well.  My dealer claimed it was certainly not worth it due to his limited tuning parameters allowed on the '17.   Dyno jet sent me a canned map for that build that trust me got rid of several issues and runs fantastic.  certainly a noticeable difference between SE Street Tuner and The PV-2 map.   

[redrodo]

Thanks for the great write up.

[FLTRI]

The difference between a Street Tuner "canned map" and a properly recalibrated/tuned bike is more impressive to the rider than to a dyno's WOT graph.
It's all about getting all the load and throttle positions vs rpms recalibrated for that particular bike and its production and aftermarket variables. This provides the most smooth, responsive, and powerful running in any and all conditions
Just ask someone who has had his bike with similar mods what he thinks about whether a dyno tune was worthwhile.
Listening to those who have not had the benefit to experience the actual difference is not as useful as listening to those who have experienced the differences.
Bob

[Rooster]

Some times things change even on a "tuned" motor such as running against a heavy head wind. Either that or had the wrong tuner.

[cmashark]

Please don't misunderstand what I'm saying.  I know the value of a tuned engine, when done properly.  My experience has been with the original Race Tuner, Power Vision, Daytona Twin Tech, and HD's Super Tuner.  From what I read, the new HD Street Tuner is extremely limited in what can be changed.  I need to see the difference in what is currently loaded in the bike and the factory canned map.  I haven't loaded the Street Tuner software on the computer, yet, so I don't what all the limitations are, just what has been published.  A lot of dealers do not have dynos, so there are going to be a ton of bikes with only a canned map.  Heck, every new bike/car/truck/Jeep has only a canned map from the factory.


Chris