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[longlast]

Well to start, some of you knew of the wobble prob, I have had in the wheel and tire column.  Well that has been sorted out. At lease I thought it had I have been riding along Farley  good !at lease I thought so.  I'm not a heavy rider on the throttle ,...but I was on a 4 lane carriageway just taking my time 65/70. Then the carriageway went down to two lanes, I had moved over into the out side lane There was a left hand gradual bend coming up " at this time I'm doing 80" all is good. As I leaned into the bend  ALL HELL BROKE LOSS Dam near lost it. I started to wobble at a 80mph bend,..(glad I took the evasivemaneuver course) any way my problems back ,...at less it is on the bends

So I got back too my garage put the bike up on my stands so the rear wheel was of the floor to see what I could see if anything, I checked the Tyre press that was good
Now hear comes the cruncher,...as I was turning the wheel I read on the side wall (left hand side witch can't bee seen when it's on the jiffy stand) It reads the Tyre max load 760 lb     WHAT 760 WAX

My Ultra is 930 stock I'm 210 = 1110 lb and that's solo. That puts it 380 lb over Tyre max load I can't believe no one in these shops I have gone to had not picked up on it.

I'm not a pro on tares but that set off some bells. Would I be in the ball park to say,...That the sidewall of the tyre could fold on bends these causing a wobble.?
Now I have to contact the tyre shop and see what going to be done about it. They installed the wrong tyre!!! Would I be right in doing so
Dose this make sense to you more knowledgeable guys I 'm just going by the numbers and a bit on common sense 

Any thoughts Cheers

 

[mrdinny]

That's okay rating for front tire only it won't see that load. Wobble in a sweeping corner? my money is on swing arm bushings or steering neck torque. 

[grc]

Whether it contributes to the wobble or not, you need to have that tire shop replace the incorrect tire with the correct one with at least a 77 load rating (908 lbs), which is what the bike came with.  This is a safety issue, and if they don't take it seriously I'd contact whatever authorities you have in Britain that deal with such issues.

Jerry

[OBB]

That's only for one tire. You have two ( I hope), add the load capacity for both tires together to get your total load capacity.

[Ridgerunr]

I've had a bad wheel bearing cause the bike to wobble in a sweeper. Chased that for a couple weeks checking the usual suspects. Dang sealed bearings, never had a tapered wheel go bad in 40 years of riding HD.

[grc]

That's only for one tire. You have two ( I hope), add the load capacity for both tires together to get your total load capacity.

It's not quite that simple.  Take a look at the vehicle certification label where it lists the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating).  That number represents both the weight of the bike plus the allowed total amount for all passengers, luggage, and accessories.  When the factory determines the correct load ratings for the tires, they have to look at many variables including weight distribution.  As you add more weight to a bike, a large percentage of that additional load falls on the rear tire much more so than the front.  So if the manufacturer says the minimum load rating for the rear tire should be 908 lbs for instance, then that's what you need to be running, no matter what the load rating is on the front tire.

Jerry

[OBB]

It's not quite that simple.  Take a look at the vehicle certification label where it lists the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating).  That number represents both the weight of the bike plus the allowed total amount for all passengers, luggage, and accessories.  When the factory determines the correct load ratings for the tires, they have to look at many variables including weight distribution.  As you add more weight to a bike, a large percentage of that additional load falls on the rear tire much more so than the front.  So if the manufacturer says the minimum load rating for the rear tire should be 908 lbs for instance, then that's what you need to be running, no matter what the load rating is on the front tire.

Jerry

I understand that. Was trying to point out to the OP that the weight is shared between the two tires. Not a 50/50 share by any means, but it is still shared. I've yet to see a tire on a truck that has a 7k lb load rating on each tire.

[Fired00d]

.....

So I got back too my garage put the bike up on my stands so the rear wheel was of the floor to see what I could see if anything, I checked the Tyre press that was good
Now hear comes the cruncher,...as I was turning the wheel I read on the side wall (left hand side witch can't bee seen when it's on the jiffy stand) It reads the Tyre max load 760 lb     WHAT 760 WAX

....

Whether it contributes to the wobble or not, you need to have that tire shop replace the incorrect tire with the correct one with at least a 77 load rating (908 lbs), which is what the bike came with.  This is a safety issue, and if they don't take it seriously I'd contact whatever authorities you have in Britain that deal with such issues.

Jerry

IMO the most significant thing (whether this is the cause of the wobble or not) is the incorrect tire/load rating (as Jerry stated) that is on the bike now which is a 148 lb difference. I would think the majority tend to overload/exceed the maximum GVWR and should meet or exceed the OEM's standard/recommendation.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[ultrarider123]

Hey Pete, take note of what the others have stated concerning the wrong tire.  Get that baby changed!  Check the neck bearing and the tightness/torque.  Check the bearings on the rear swing arm.  Check the belt tightness.  All good things to keep an eye on but even if everything else checks out, change that rear tire, brother.

[longlast]

     Thank for all the feed back

Hey Pete, take note of what the others have stated concerning the wrong tire.  Get that baby changed!  on but even if everything else checks out, change that rear tire, brother.

Check the belt tightness Check the neck bearing and the tightness/torque.  Check the bearings on the rear swing arm. .  All good things to keep an eye


Thanks Howard, ya all those things have been eliminated when I was trying to sort it all out at the time of my "scary wobble post"  It's cost a few quid £££ having all this checking done.
I'm not going to mess around . That shop is going to take that tyre back I got them by the shorty's they installed a under rated tyre.
I'm thinking it's been the problem all a long

[FlaHeatWave]

     Thank for all the feed back
 Check the belt tightness Check the neck bearing and the tightness/torque.  Check the bearings on the rear swing arm. .  All good things to keep an eye


Thanks Howard, ya all those things have been eliminated when I was trying to sort it all out at the time of my "scary wobble post"  It's cost a few quid £££ having all this checking done.
I'm not going to mess around . That shop is going to take that tyre back I got them by the shorty's they installed a under rated tyre.
I'm thinking it's been the problem all a long

Even though a dangerous situation, I doubt that the underrated tire would "fold" if properly inflated...

When you have the rear tire replaced, make sure that both tires are a matched set of the proper tires, properly inflated. Sometimes when all checks good the wobble is still there, overtighting the steering head bearings (on the '06, '07, '08 models) will reduce the wobble, HD changed the steering head for the '06 model year, my Bud went through this on his '06 SE Ultra, I put several thousand miles on this bike, while it had a plusher ride than the '05 SEEG, it did seem to "float" a lot more than my '05, which was "planted" in all conditions (the '05 SEEG has a firmer suspension from the factory) overtightening the steering head bearings a little bit helped the '06. Sometimes firming up the front forks is required (heavier fork oil or firmer dampers such as Progressive). How many miles on the bike? the rear shocks (damping) might be worn out?
The GlidePro Bushings / Engine Mount and StaBo swingarm Bearings are worthwhile upgrades.

[longlast]

Even though a dangerous situation, I doubt that the underrated tire would "fold" if properly inflated...

When you have the rear tire replaced, make sure that both tires are a matched set of the proper tires, properly inflated. Sometimes when all checks good the wobble is still there, overtighting the steering head bearings (on the '06, '07, '08 models) will reduce the wobble, HD changed the steering head for the '06 model year, my Bud went through this on his '06 SE Ultra, I put several thousand miles on this bike, while it had a plusher ride than the '05 SEEG, it did seem to "float" a lot more than my '05, which was "planted" in all conditions (the '05 SEEG has a firmer suspension from the factory) overtightening the steering head bearings a little bit helped the '06. Sometimes firming up the front forks is required (heavier fork oil or firmer dampers such as Progressive). How many miles on the bike? the rear shocks (damping) might be worn out?
The GlidePro Bushings / Engine Mount and StaBo swingarm Bearings are worthwhile upgrades.

Thanks Wave, I will be going over all points. The bike has low miles, put it this way,.. it's just coming doe for it's second oil change.

[VANAMAL]

when you say wobble was it the rear end shake/wobble or was it the handle bar tank slapper? does your bike have the new style frame or the old style? Ive experianced  both and know the feeling

[FlaHeatWave]

Thanks Wave, I will be going over all points. The bike has low miles, put it this way,.. it's just coming doe for it's second oil change.

 Since the bike has less than 10,000 miles, I would just make sure that the tires are proper, and tighten up steering head bearings a little tighter than spec.

 And if you have not already done it, check the air in the rear shocks.

[skycat]

Check the engine mounts and top stabilizer, your swing arm is bolted to the trans. If any thing is loose or worn you will wobble all over the road.

[ultrafxr]

when you say wobble was it the rear end shake/wobble or was it the handle bar tank slapper? does your bike have the new style frame or the old style? Ive experianced  both and know the feeling

He does not specify but the photo is of a 2007 FLHTCUSE2 and I think that is the bike he is referring to.  So old style frame.

[VANAMAL]

The ride str8 or the tru track made these bikes handle better. The fork bearings are prob dry. Find that zerk and if it hasnt been lubed it will take a whole tube. Mine never woobled again after the rear stabilizer was added and the front lubed up. I had problems with rear swingarm wear but that was at 60k miles. It would be easy to put an indicator on wheels to ck run out

[longlast]

when you say wobble was it the rear end shake/wobble or was it the handle bar tank slapper? does your bike have the new style frame or the old style? Ive experianced  both and know the feeling

It is the rear end doing the wiggle bars are steady.

 

He does not specify but the photo is of a 2007 FLHTCUSE2 and I think that is the bike he is referring to.  So old style frame.

It is the 2007

 

[longlast]

I have been In touch with the tyre manufactures and it has come back that the tyre put on the bike is designed for lighter weight bikes.
The manufacture has given me the information as to the correct tyre to carry the load.
Now I've got to take it up with the bike shop. They messed up they got to make it right I'm hopping with out a struggle.

I've not found any other thing as far but this tyre issue and too keep in mind all this trouble began after the tyre was installed.

So now let the games begin   

[ltank]

I was told at the Dealership the Batwing fairing was only designed to keep the wind off of you up to 70 mph. I have a standard windshield that doesn't so far cause this problem even at speeds in excess of 100mph.