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CVO Technical => Milwaukee-Eight => Topic started by: havenolife on October 08, 2019, 06:35:00 AM
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ITEM 310-1052 S and S Cycle Big Boar Kit has anyone used this kit what are your thoughts would you change anything would you do it again are you happy with it I have a 17 Street Glide Special went out of warranty on the 25th of last month I would add new steel intake new head bolts and check the piston oil jets anything else this would be a winter project I have power vision fuel motto headpipe screaming eagle heavy breather and supper trapp stout slip on mufflers on now any thoughts good or bad are welcome
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Interested in your experience. Sounds like an awesome upgrade.
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My opinion is Don’t buy the kit
Buy the crank, raw cylinders then buy pistons like Dragos with 3mm rings, have the cylinders bored to match your pistons.
Buy the lifters and pushrods, blue pump and plate
the m8 585 cams equivalent not ez start use your 110 compression releases set compression follow S&S compression recommendations
Have your heads done to match the performance and use an HPi 58mm with 6.22 injectors and proper 58mm opening backplate with a decent
HPI does more to ensure the throttleblade settings are tested and right (send them your 50mm) as the electronic core, be sure to know what your intake port size is to get the correct manifold for the throttle body.
.030 cometic headgaskets Check your compensator stack heights to be sure they are in spec your going to be adding more power it’s an easy time to change it.
If you like Timken bearings it’s a good time to put in the Jim’s. Don’t recommend the T2 cases with the gnurled fit Timken they can and do move.
2-1 pipe and good tune
The reason to pass on the pistons and already cut cylinders is pistons have 2mm rings and quality control with the boring as they are mass production
Personally I prefer a tighter piston to bore starting point with an easy break in
Should have a 124 that produces 136-146 torque and 118-126 hp with the 585 cam or equivalent in m8 form. Should be a great touring bike
Don’t forget the clutch - suggest aim SDR or replacement clutch with top hat (throw outs) scorpion has worked well as well as AIM clutches
Good luck with your build
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thanks for the info
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My opinion is Don’t buy the kit
Buy the crank, raw cylinders then buy pistons like Dragos with 3mm rings, have the cylinders bored to match your pistons.
Buy the lifters and pushrods, blue pump and plate
the m8 585 cams equivalent not ez start use your 110 compression releases set compression follow S&S compression recommendations
Have your heads done to match the performance and use an HPi 58mm with 6.22 injectors and proper 58mm opening backplate with a decent
HPI does more to ensure the throttleblade settings are tested and right (send them your 50mm) as the electronic core, be sure to know what your intake port size is to get the correct manifold for the throttle body.
.030 cometic headgaskets Check your compensator stack heights to be sure they are in spec your going to be adding more power it’s an easy time to change it.
If you like Timken bearings it’s a good time to put in the Jim’s. Don’t recommend the T2 cases with the gnurled fit Timken they can and do move.
2-1 pipe and good tune
The reason to pass on the pistons and already cut cylinders is pistons have 2mm rings and quality control with the boring as they are mass production
Personally I prefer a tighter piston to bore starting point with an easy break in
Should have a 124 that produces 136-146 torque and 118-126 hp with the 585 cam or equivalent in m8 form. Should be a great touring bike
Don’t forget the clutch - suggest aim SDR or replacement clutch with top hat (throw outs) scorpion has worked well as well as AIM clutches
Good luck with your build
His bike is a 2017 107 M8.
SG
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My opinion is Don’t buy the kit
Buy the crank, raw cylinders then buy pistons like Dragos with 3mm rings, have the cylinders bored to match your pistons.
Buy the lifters and pushrods, blue pump and plate
the m8 585 cams equivalent not ez start use your 110 compression releases set compression follow S&S compression recommendations
Have your heads done to match the performance and use an HPi 58mm with 6.22 injectors and proper 58mm opening backplate with a decent
HPI does more to ensure the throttleblade settings are tested and right (send them your 50mm) as the electronic core, be sure to know what your intake port size is to get the correct manifold for the throttle body.
.030 cometic headgaskets Check your compensator stack heights to be sure they are in spec your going to be adding more power it’s an easy time to change it.
If you like Timken bearings it’s a good time to put in the Jim’s. Don’t recommend the T2 cases with the gnurled fit Timken they can and do move.
2-1 pipe and good tune
The reason to pass on the pistons and already cut cylinders is pistons have 2mm rings and quality control with the boring as they are mass production
Personally I prefer a tighter piston to bore starting point with an easy break in
Should have a 124 that produces 136-146 torque and 118-126 hp with the 585 cam or equivalent in m8 form. Should be a great touring bike
Don’t forget the clutch - suggest aim SDR or replacement clutch with top hat (throw outs) scorpion has worked well as well as AIM clutches
Good luck with your build
I'm not sure there are any problems with the M8 crank. I'm going through with a 150 plus HP build on my Roadglide. There has never been any mention of crank issues.
Be Safe
THE DAWG