Topic: HAYDEN TENSIONER M6 INSTALL (Read 12838 times)

gabe · « **on:** August 10, 2012, 07:49:06 PM »

it says a 1/2 inch from bottom of shoe to top of guide plate if this measurement is to loose you will have to add shims i have 3/4 with no sims which should be good.looking on input on this
tryed the sims its the same 3/4 chain only has 16,000 miles on it
thanks gabe

TexasBowhunter · « **Reply #1 on:** August 10, 2012, 09:38:26 PM »

Once you install the shims you then measure from the top of the shims...Is this where you measured from and to?
Mine measured 1/2" with the installation of the M6 and I had 20K on the clock
paul

gabe · « **Reply #2 on:** August 11, 2012, 04:28:55 AM »

Quote from: TexasBowhunter on August 10, 2012, 09:38:26 PM

Once you install the shims you then measure from the top of the shims...Is this where you measured from and to?
Mine measured 1/2" with the installation of the M6 and I had 20K on the clock
paul
[/quote no it does not say measure from top of shim

grc · « **Reply #3 on:** August 11, 2012, 10:35:39 AM »

Gabe, the instruction sheet isn't worded very well. The 1/2" measurement is from the top of the shim pack to the bottom of the plastic shoe. When they say top of the guide, what they are talking about is the surface where the bottom of the spring rests. In other words, if you look at the guide from the side it looks like a "U". The surface they are talking about is at the bottom of that "U". Click on the attachment to expand it to full size and look at the red arrows I added.

If Kathy from Hayden sees this thread, perhaps she could convince someone at Hayden to fix those instructions and actually show on the picture where the measurement should be taken.

Jerry

gabe · « **Reply #4 on:** August 11, 2012, 11:12:47 AM »

Quote from: grc on August 11, 2012, 10:35:39 AM

Gabe, the instruction sheet isn't worded very well. The 1/2" measurement is from the top of the shim pack to the bottom of the plastic shoe. When they say top of the guide, what they are talking about is the surface where the bottom of the spring rests. In other words, if you look at the guide from the side it looks like a "U". The surface they are talking about is at the bottom of that "U". Click on the attachment to expand it to full size and look at the red arrows I added.

If Kathy from Hayden sees this thread, perhaps she could convince someone at Hayden to fix those instructions and actually show on the picture where the measurement should be taken.

grc thank you very much i put it back together and rode it i guess on monday i will call them and see if i have to take it apart it rode ok and shift it good but who knows now
Jerry

JoeSDE · « **Reply #5 on:** August 11, 2012, 11:27:23 PM »

Thanks for that great photo. Have a new Hayden waiting for some time to put it in. Agree 100% on the need for instruction sheet clarification. JoeS

VANAMAL · « **Reply #6 on:** August 12, 2012, 01:09:27 AM »

Ditto on the instructions. Plus it would be nice to know the torque setting when reinstalling the 2 bolts

gabe · « **Reply #7 on:** August 12, 2012, 07:27:29 AM »

i took mine apart again to check so it had a 1/2 inch on the bottom so now we all know if you have 3/4 from the bottom of shoe to top of guide plate you should have a 1/2 on the botttom the 2 bolts in mannual torque 15-17 ft lbs if i remember right i used the service mannual for torque spec
had to do twice because of bad instructions of install hope its all worth it

BillH · « **Reply #8 on:** August 12, 2012, 05:41:36 PM »

Installed mine the other day - ditto's on the confusing instruction text. After looking and scratching my head a few times, we figured it out. Hayden definitely needs to re-word their instructions.

Bill

Kathy · « **Reply #9 on:** August 15, 2012, 11:29:18 PM »

Sorry for the misunderstanding. We have indeed corrected our instruction sheet. The measurement is from the bottom of the nylon shoe to where the springs are setting. Whether it be on the guide plate or on a shim. We only sent those instructions in about 100 boxes until we caught it. Sorry again and you can always call our 800 number for clairification on anything. 800-664-6972

grc · « **Reply #10 on:** August 16, 2012, 08:32:16 AM »

Quote from: Kathy on August 15, 2012, 11:29:18 PM

Sorry for the misunderstanding. We have indeed corrected our instruction sheet. The measurement is from the bottom of the nylon shoe to where the springs are setting. Whether it be on the guide plate or on a shim. We only sent those instructions in about 100 boxes until we caught it. Sorry again and you can always call our 800 number for clairification on anything. 800-664-6972

Don't forget the online version as well, when I looked a few days ago it was still the old version.

Jerry

Kathy · « **Reply #11 on:** August 18, 2012, 03:16:40 PM »

Instructions on our website are now updated too.

mcdonaldroadcapt · « **Reply #12 on:** August 31, 2012, 12:13:36 PM »

Exactly how do you release the pressure on the factory ratchet tensioner to remove it? Don't see a slot for a screwdriver or tool to engage.

Kathy · « **Reply #13 on:** August 31, 2012, 12:33:01 PM »

Quote from: mcdonaldroadcapt on August 31, 2012, 12:13:36 PM

Exactly how do you release the pressure on the factory ratchet tensioner to remove it? Don't see a slot for a screwdriver or tool to engage.

Hi there, we've found that an easy way is to use some type of crowbar or large screwdriver between the bottom of the stock unit and the primary floor to pry up a little and releave some pressure while using a ratchet to remove the bolts.

We hope this helps.

Thanks

catahoula58 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 07, 2012, 06:49:16 PM »

Did you or Do we get a Forum Discount when we purchase the Tensioner? Just asking! Thx

Fired00d · « **Reply #15 on:** September 07, 2012, 07:02:40 PM »

Quote from: catahoula58 on September 07, 2012, 06:49:16 PM

Did you or Do we get a Forum Discount when we purchase the Tensioner? Just asking! Thx

If you want to know what vendors offer discounts to CVOHarley you should check the Vendor Discounts board.

To answer your question check out this thread - The M6 Automatic Primary Chain Tensioner

Ride Safe,
Fired00d

Boatman · « **Reply #16 on:** October 05, 2012, 10:37:04 AM »

Quote from: mcdonaldroadcapt on August 31, 2012, 12:13:36 PM

Exactly how do you release the pressure on the factory ratchet tensioner to remove it? Don't see a slot for a screwdriver or tool to engage.

Just put a tie strap around the HD auto tensioner (around the top of the shoe and bottom of the tensioner), remove the 2 bolts, and slides right out. You don't have to release the pressure.

North Georgia Hawg · « **Reply #17 on:** October 15, 2012, 09:50:41 PM »

Quote from: Boatman on October 05, 2012, 10:37:04 AM

Just put a tie strap around the HD auto tensioner (around the top of the shoe and bottom of the tensioner), remove the 2 bolts, and slides right out. You don't have to release the pressure.

That's exactly what the H-D Service manual says to do - with pictures, even. It's quite simple... did it today in fact... you just have pry the chain up a bit to make room to slide the zip tie between the chain and the shoe at the rear... then pull the zip tie tight, remove the two bolts, and out it comes - nice and neat.

Lever · « **Reply #18 on:** October 20, 2012, 08:55:31 PM »

having mine installed also along with other stuff as well cant wait to get her home

Aussie · « **Reply #19 on:** October 22, 2012, 06:16:46 PM »

JMO, We pay a premium for our CVO's and to fit after market parts to eliminate any premature wear/damage!!!

However the M6 tensioner works well retaining force on the primary chain at varies loads.

Can somebody give me more detail on how the OEM tensioner over ratchets.

North Georgia Hawg · « **Reply #20 on:** October 22, 2012, 06:35:08 PM »

Quote from: Aussie on October 22, 2012, 06:16:46 PM

JMO, We pay a premium for our CVO's and to fit after market parts to eliminate any premature wear/damage!!!

However the M6 tensioner works well retaining force on the primary chain at varies loads.

Can somebody give me more detail on how the OEM tensioner over ratchets.

Aussie - if you accelerate quickly to a high RPM, then decelerate quickly keeping the clutch engaged, this will introduce some slack at the bottom of the chain. The ratcheting tensioner can ratchet up to take up this short-duration slack, and then it will stay there. This can make the chain too tight - which will pull on the sprockets on both ends, and a too-tight chain is hard on both the compensator and the clutch... although the compensator will very likely be the first thing to fail, since the clutch is so much bigger and stouter. An over-tight primary chain will also wear out the sprockets and/or the chain itself prematurely, as well as be noisy in the primary. There's NOTHING good about a too-tight primary chain.

In fact, there is a H-D tech bulletin about how to address a too-loose primary chain... this bulletin states to do exactly what I said above... accelerate quickly to a high RPM, then decelerate quickly using only engine compression... to allow the tensioner to ratchet up and tighten the chain. SO... H-D's own tech bulletin to deal with a too-loose primary chain can actually PRODUCE the over-tight primary chain problem!

The Hayden M6 tensioner doesn't have this problem at all, as it constantly adjusts via the internal springs to keep the chain at the proper tension at all times.

Kathy · « **Reply #21 on:** October 22, 2012, 06:41:35 PM »

Quote from: North Georgia Hawg on October 22, 2012, 06:35:08 PM

Aussie - if you accelerate quickly to a high RPM, then decelerate quickly keeping the clutch engaged, this will introduce some slack at the bottom of the chain. The ratcheting tensioner can ratchet up to take up this short-duration slack, and then it will stay there. This can make the chain too tight - which will pull on the sprockets on both ends, and a too-tight chain is hard on both the compensator and the clutch... although the compensator will very likely be the first thing to fail, since the clutch is so much bigger and stouter. An over-tight primary chain will also wear out the sprockets and/or the chain itself prematurely, as well as be noisy in the primary. There's NOTHING good about a too-tight primary chain.

In fact, there is a H-D tech bulletin about how to address a too-loose primary chain... this bulletin states to do exactly what I said above... accelerate quickly to a high RPM, then decelerate quickly using only engine compression... to allow the tensioner to ratchet up and tighten the chain. SO... H-D's own tech bulletin to deal with a too-loose primary chain can actually PRODUCE the over-tight primary chain problem!

The Hayden M6 tensioner doesn't have this problem at all, as it constantly adjusts via the internal springs to keep the chain at the proper tension at all times.

Very we'll stated! And we agree with the statement.

Thanks,
Hayden Enterprises
http://www.haydensm6.com

- We're here to help!

Aussie · « **Reply #22 on:** October 22, 2012, 06:48:57 PM »

NGH, Thanks for the detailed explanation, makes sence.

North Georgia Hawg · « **Reply #23 on:** October 22, 2012, 08:16:50 PM »

Quote from: Kathy on October 22, 2012, 06:41:35 PM

Very we'll stated! And we agree with the statement.

Thanks,
Hayden Enterprises
http://www.haydensm6.com

- We're here to help!

Kathy - for the record, I now have the Hayden M6 BT07 in the Honey Badger... and I really like it. The primary is quieter, it's easy to find neutral, and I feel good that will not need to be concerned about my primary chain ever being over- or under-tightened.

Thanks for a great product!

Desertwndrr · « **Reply #24 on:** October 22, 2012, 08:29:57 PM »

I have one in my 2012 RGC and have one on order for my new to me 2007 FXSTSSE. It was the first thing that I ordered for the bike......just before pipes. Worth every penny!!

Lever · « **Reply #25 on:** October 23, 2012, 09:56:22 PM »

just test rode my bike today with the new Hayden m6 installed ...great product thanks it really makes a difference bike shifts so much smoother and less effort too thanks

Desertwndrr · « **Reply #26 on:** October 25, 2012, 03:42:45 PM »

FYI. This is what a tensioner looks like that has ratcheted up too tight. There was virtually no play at all and the bike has only 2400 miles on it.

Aussie · « **Reply #27 on:** October 25, 2012, 07:17:36 PM »

Quote from: Desertwndrr on October 25, 2012, 03:42:45 PM

FYI. This is what a tensioner looks like that has ratcheted up too tight. There was virtually no play at all and the bike has only 2400 miles on it.

The chain is very straight at the top, what should it look like with the correct tension?

Are there any tell tails (noticeable noises) when your chain is tight?

Kathy · « **Reply #28 on:** October 25, 2012, 07:29:29 PM »

Listening to it will be the first tell tale. It will start with a whine that will get louder and louder.

Desertwndrr · « **Reply #29 on:** October 25, 2012, 09:23:13 PM »

With any fixed tensioner such as the older style twin cam, or the baker, there should be about 5/8" play at the tightest point checked in several places. With the Hayden, set it and forget it.

JoeSDE · « **Reply #30 on:** November 10, 2012, 10:23:42 PM »

Changed my primary tensioner last week because I wasn't comfortable with the idea of the ratcheting tensioner. Found my primary chain as tight as could be with almost no movement at all. Hayden M6 went in easily. Finally got the bike out 10 days after installation without any thought about having a new tensioner. When the bike started, I immediately noticed how quiet the primary side was. Never really thought the primary was overly noisy to begin with, but the difference was quite noticeable. Just thought I'd post this because I installed this with no expectations other than having a continuously adjusting tensioner. JoeS

Kathy · « **Reply #31 on:** November 11, 2012, 03:23:07 PM »

We thank you for your comment and you can expect to enjoy many many miles of the M6 doing exactly what it's advertised to do. Remember, we're here to help.

Author Topic: HAYDEN TENSIONER M6 INSTALL (Read 12838 times)