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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin' Eagle® Electra Glide® => Topic started by: CVOwner on March 19, 2008, 11:13:16 PM
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I have the replacement led gauge bulbs and am going to be replacing the burnt out ones soon. How difficult is it to remove the outer fairing cover? I havent even looked at it yet, thought I might ask the pros first. I'm sure its not too difficult. Is there anything I should look out for? I will definitely cover the front fender. Any and all info is greatly appreciated. I'm going to replace all of them at once.
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socks on the running lights, magnet near the screws on the bottom for when you drop them. Leave the top (windshield) center screw in till last.
Do a search for fairing removal and you will find several more tips, including a picture of all the screws
While your in there, add Hawg wired speakers & amp, HID headlight bulb, wild one 575's, Demon heated grips.....................
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What are the wild one 575's?
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What are the wild one 575's?
Pull back handlebars that are larger diameter than stock.
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I have the replacement led gauge bulbs and am going to be replacing the burnt out ones soon. How difficult is it to remove the outer fairing cover? I havent even looked at it yet, thought I might ask the pros first. I'm sure its not too difficult. Is there anything I should look out for? I will definitely cover the front fender. Any and all info is greatly appreciated. I'm going to replace all of them at once.
It is real easy it only has 7 screws to remove it. The ones you really need to look for are under the triple tree. They are a 27 torx. The others are the 3 that hold the windshield and one on each side about 3/4 of the way down.
Be Safe
THE DAWG
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What are the wild one 575's?
Like Bob (Boatman) said, they are pullbacks.
They come back about 1 1/2", up about 1 1/2" and are wider by about 1 1/2"
And they straighten out the angle of your wrists a bit, put them more in line with your forearm.
Plus since they are 1 1/4" diameter they look much better then the stock 1" bars
Do a search of Wild One 575, you'll find complete write ups as well as install notes (with pictures)
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I always put it on a lift with the front wheel hanging so I can turn it. Then add the socks to the lights as mentioned earlier.
From the inner fairing side, remove the two screws above the lower tripple trees by turning the bars all the way to each side. The screw may be hidden a bit under wires or brake lines but they're there. One on each side. about an inch up and an inch in from the fork legs. Use a strong magnetic tipped screw driver or those screws will find a new home in the tripple tree.
Then remove the two screws from the inner fairing just above the wind deflecters and below the speakers.
Finally remove the three screws below the windshield. Pull the windshield straight up and set it to the side. Pull the headlight plug from the light itself after you have the fairing loose.
Tilt the top of the fairing towards you and angle it out. It's kinda like a puzzle to get it around the light bar but by turning and leaning it will clear without loosening the bar. Make sure you have the socks on the lights. I haven't figured a way to get it off without pushing against them... And I can solve Rubik's Cube in under two minutes so I'm pretty sure that puzzle ain't got no solution. ;D
Couple of things to add about reinstalling the fairing:
It's easier to get it to line up if it's on a lift or center stand so it's level and the wheel is straight until you get the two outboard screws started.
It's alot easier with a friend to hold it in place and get things lined up during re-install.
Only get each screw started... If you tighten any one before they're all started it'll never line up. Make sure the black weather seal on the inner fairing doesn't get pulled out of place before you tighten them all back up.
Good Luck and Ride Safe,
J-Carr
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Everyone has given you some good tips/instructions. The only thing I will add is if the screw doesn't thread in easily, stop and don't force it as these fine thread screws strip easily. Also, when you squeeze the headlight plug to remove from bulb, they are hard to remove. Since I changed to the HID light, I now have to remove the headlight (which is easy) to unplug the wires.
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I always put it on a lift with the front wheel hanging so I can turn it. Then add the socks to the lights as mentioned earlier.
From the inner fairing side, remove the two screws above the lower tripple trees by turning the bars all the way to each side. The screw may be hidden a bit under wires or brake lines but they're there. One on each side. about an inch up and an inch in from the fork legs. Use a strong magnetic tipped screw driver or those screws will find a new home in the tripple tree.
Then remove the two screws from the inner fairing just above the wind deflecters and below the speakers.
Finally remove the three screws below the windshield. Pull the windshield straight up and set it to the side. Pull the headlight plug from the light itself after you have the fairing loose.
Tilt the top of the fairing towards you and angle it out. It's kinda like a puzzle to get it around the light bar but by turning and leaning it will clear without loosening the bar. Make sure you have the socks on the lights. I haven't figured a way to get it off without pushing against them... And I can solve Rubik's Cube in under two minutes so I'm pretty sure that puzzle ain't got no solution. ;D
Couple of things to add about reinstalling the fairing:
It's easier to get it to line up if it's on a lift or center stand so it's level and the wheel is straight until you get the two outboard screws started.
It's alot easier with a friend to hold it in place and get things lined up during re-install.
Only get each screw started... If you tighten any one before they're all started it'll never line up. Make sure the black weather seal on the inner fairing doesn't get pulled out of place before you tighten them all back up.
Good Luck and Ride Safe,
J-Carr
And if you want get fancy and make this a bit easier to re-install, install (with locktite) two threaded studs or set screws in place of the two screws you remove. When you reassemble the fairing, it is far easier to start two nuts onto the threaded studs then it is to install the original screws.
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And if you want get fancy and make this a bit easier to re-install, install (with locktite) two threaded studs or set screws in place of the two screws you remove. When you reassemble the fairing, it is far easier to start two nuts onto the threaded studs then it is to install the original screws.
Have done that to any Eglide fairing I was going to have off more than once for a long long time. Are there any comparable spots on the Road Glide fairing? Never lifted one of those off but this one will be coming off sooner rather than later.
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Have done that to any Eglide fairing I was going to have off more than once for a long long time. Are there any comparable spots on the Road Glide fairing? Never lifted one of those off but this one will be coming off sooner rather than later.
Nope - the only trick to the Road Glide fairing is not pushing the rubber nuts back inside the fairing upon re-install - which is very easy to do and very frustrating. I always kept some extra's on hand, so if it happened, I could just leave them in there until the next time and not have to take it all back apart again and start over.... Kind of like my personal recycling and stress relief program ... :2vrolijk_21:
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Nope - the only trick to the Road Glide fairing is not pushing the rubber nuts back inside the fairing upon re-install - which is very easy to do and very frustrating. I always kept some extra's on hand, so if it happened, I could just leave them in there until the next time and not have to take it all back apart again and start over.... Kind of like my personal recycling and stress relief program ... :2vrolijk_21:
Same wellnuts as used for the windshield? If so I've already got some spares. Unless I'm missing something here it looks like the windshield can stay attached to the outer fairing as it comes on and off though. That's five wellnuts I can't lose if it works out that way.
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Nope - the only trick to the Road Glide fairing is not pushing the rubber nuts back inside the fairing upon re-install - which is very easy to do and very frustrating. I always kept some extra's on hand, so if it happened, I could just leave them in there until the next time and not have to take it all back apart again and start over.... Kind of like my personal recycling and stress relief program ... :2vrolijk_21:
You guys are a cornucopia of useful knowledge!
:2vrolijk_21:
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Do a search for fairing removal and you will find several more tips, including a picture of all the screws
I did, nothing came up, I think it got deleted by the hacker? I could have used those pics too. Anyway, good info, I'll get to it this afternoon and be on the site if I have trouble. Thanks,
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I did, nothing came up, I think it got deleted by the hacker? I could have used those pics too. Anyway, good info, I'll get to it this afternoon and be on the site if I have trouble. Thanks,
Try this thread - SEEG fairing removal (http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=2391.0).
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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Nope - the only trick to the Road Glide fairing is not pushing the rubber nuts back inside the fairing upon re-install - which is very easy to do and very frustrating. I always kept some extra's on hand, so if it happened, I could just leave them in there until the next time and not have to take it all back apart again and start over.... Kind of like my personal recycling and stress relief program ... :2vrolijk_21:
On the RG fairings there is no need to remove the windshield when removing the fairing. There are 3 T25 torx screws on each side and the lower brackets / turn signal mounts to remove. When these are all out lift up on the fairing to remove. There are two hooks that hold it in place. Re-install on these is more difficult that the EG as getting the hooks in is a b#tch. Sometimes i remove the headlamp to align the hooks then install the screws and headlamp last.
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And if you want get fancy and make this a bit easier to re-install, install (with locktite) two threaded studs or set screws in place of the two screws you remove. When you reassemble the fairing, it is far easier to start two nuts onto the threaded studs then it is to install the original screws.
Two threaded studs where? To replace the bottom two screws?
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Two threaded studs where? To replace the bottom two screws?
YES!
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On the RG fairings there is no need to remove the windshield when removing the fairing. There are 3 T25 torx screws on each side and the lower brackets / turn signal mounts to remove. When these are all out lift up on the fairing to remove. There are two hooks that hold it in place. Re-install on these is more difficult that the EG as getting the hooks in is a b#tch. Sometimes i remove the headlamp to align the hooks then install the screws and headlamp last.
Hadn't looked close enough at the fairing mounts to realize the signal housings came off to R&R. Thanks Jim. If you've done it several times and still think aligning whatever these hooks are is a pain I'm not looking forward to the first reinstall. Will have to mount the bad-word-collector in the garage to catch those few that might escape.
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Hadn't looked close enough at the fairing mounts to realize the signal housings came off to R&R. Thanks Jim. If you've done it several times and still think aligning whatever these hooks are is a pain I'm not looking forward to the first reinstall. Will have to mount the bad-word-collector in the garage to catch those few that might escape.
Have done this hundreds of times, You learn the "feel" of where the hooks are. You will see when you get it apart how they work. There are those that still just want to be a pain and yes the bad word collector will be in order (and make sure the niece isn't around).... :-X I have found that when there is a dificult one its just as easy to take the extra step and remove the head lamp lens and then the head lamp assembly. Its all held in with plastic clips. In the end the install is far easier when you can see the hooks and line them up throught the headlamp hole....
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Have done this hundreds of times, You learn the "feel" of where the hooks are. You will see when you get it apart how they work. There are those that still just want to be a pain and yes the bad word collector will be in order (and make sure the niece isn't around).... :-X I have found that when there is a dificult one its just as easy to take the extra step and remove the head lamp lens and then the head lamp assembly. Its all held in with plastic clips. In the end the install is far easier when you can see the hooks and line them up throught the headlamp hole....
Appreciate the heads up. Did notice the finger/thumb releases for the outer headlamp shield. The inner reflector is a snap in clip of some kind also? Hadn't looked at that at all yet but have to replace the one that's in my bike. Lots of flaking off the original reflector.
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Appreciate the heads up. Did notice the finger/thumb releases for the outer headlamp shield. The inner reflector is a snap in clip of some kind also? Hadn't looked at that at all yet but have to replace the one that's in my bike. Lots of flaking off the original reflector.
Yes, there are plastic connectors that the headlamp adjustment / alignment screws go into, just squeeze them to remove. It a good idea to have a spare or two on hand as well, have seen many broken ones when they come apart.
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Yes, there are plastic connectors that the headlamp adjustment / alignment screws go into, just squeeze them to remove. It a good idea to have a spare or two on hand as well, have seen many broken ones when they come apart.
Thanks Jim. Already grabbed a hand full of spare #10/32 wellnuts for spares as a lesson learned from the first time the windshield was off. Was glad to see the windshield can stay on the fairing for its removal as a result. Will grab some of the pieces you describe for the same spare parts drawer. Appreciate the insights and advice.
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Thanks Jim. Already grabbed a hand full of spare #10/32 wellnuts for spares as a lesson learned from the first time the windshield was off. Was glad to see the windshield can stay on the fairing for its removal as a result. Will grab some of the pieces you describe for the same spare parts drawer. Appreciate the insights and advice.
I know you can keep the windshield attached to the fairing when removing the fairing, but I always removed it anyway - only because it was such a handful to re-install the fairing. The RG fairing was much more difficult to re-install then the EG fairing is. Maybe just me - but it seemed the odds of scratching the windshield or some other bonehead move damaging it went up if I left it attached. Don't ask how I know this... ???