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[Twolanerider]

Thanks for the input fellas.  I'm going with the grinding slot in race and use HD puller tool kit. 

Interesting twist on the standard horseshoe type pullers.  One more thing to consider though.  I looked at the manufacturer's website for that tool and it is as shown in the video.  By that I mean it's a puller only.  How about getting the race back on?

The other versions of the tool for that task are a (commonly) a combination puller and pusher.  The rest you need to push the race back on are part of the tool.  That's a long shaft so some of the common race/bearing drivers won't play well there. 

[J.D.]

Got me wondering... wondering if you could put a slit in both halves of the race and remove it with a typical bearing splitter?

[Twolanerider]

Got me wondering... wondering if you could put a slit in both halves of the race and remove it with a typical bearing splitter?

Just a guess; but I doubt it.  Those are pretty blunt.  They need a good sized bite and I'm not sure that could be created in the race.  They'd be way too big to do with the pulley in place too.  Probably have better luck just splitting the race with a cut off wheel.  Still have to get the new race back on also.

The installation is helped by getting the new race nice and warm before beginning the installation.  Still working over a long shaft for workspace though.

[J.D.]

Yes I have the remover/installation tool (works like a charm for races that haven't moved).  Never had to try to remove one that's walked yet, and hopefully never have to either.

[J.D.]

Last crazy idea (thinking out loud so to speak)...

Would it be possible to machine a ring with an ID of the race OD, TIG weld a couple places (without enough heat to fubar the whole enchilada), then use this as the lip to pull?  Might be more work than just grinding the race off though.

[Twolanerider]

Yes I have the remover/installation tool (works like a charm for races that haven't moved).  Never had to try to remove one that's walked yet, and hopefully never have to either.

It's really not that bad.  You see the damn thing has walked, you say a bad word or several, then you grab the cut off wheel and make a little room to put the tool on.  I've never tried to do it with the pulley on but if you've got the big-assed socket you don't have to.  Single most important thing is watch close and don't work aggressively so you keep the wheel off the shaft.

I've done it both ways.  Make a place to put the puller or notch it long-ways and split it.  Don't remember why I did it that way one time, something goofy going on.  Oddball problems lead you to different solutions.  Even there just cut it to a point it was very thin, bit  of a V notch on the top and then some side-load thwack with a cold chisel.  Damn thing split with a very satisfying "riiiiing."

[Twolanerider]

Last crazy idea (thinking out loud so to speak)...

Would it be possible to machine a ring with an ID of the race OD, TIG weld a couple places (without enough heat to fubar the whole enchilada), then use this as the lip to pull?  Might be more work than just grinding the race off though.

No reason you couldn't.  Sounds like more work though.  And you've still got to get the new one back on.

On the older bikes (pre-6 speed) I never put the race back on though.  Use the Baker bearing instead.  It's a different bearing than stock that is the same OD as the original bearing and the same ID as the race.  Install it in the primary and just slide it on and off.  Don't know of a comparable option for the 6 speed bikes though.

[J.D.]

Yes saw the Baker bearing and seal which looks to be a great option as long as the shaft isn't marked, and certainly eliminates any tools associated with reinstalling the race (and future race walking concerns).

Interesting discussion.

[Twolanerider]

Yes saw the Baker bearing and seal which looks to be a great option as long as the shaft isn't marked, and certainly eliminates any tools associated with reinstalling the race (and future race walking concerns).

Interesting discussion.

As much as I like that Baker bearing (have it in both of my bikes now and have installed it in quite a few others) there is a potential downside.  It's a downside that's easily mitigated though.

If you ever have an inner primary seal leak out on the road it's almost a sure bet no Harley dealer will stock the seal.  The seal has a smaller ID compared to stock just like the bearing does.  Seals are cheap though so I've got a well padded spare stored in the bottom of a saddlebag on both bikes along with the other spare parts and tools that are down there hiding from daylight.

[J.D.]

True, but I've yet to see that seal fail catastrophically.

[rlundy]

Twolanerider  Yeah, I ordered the inner race installation tool as well.  Another $45.  The puller / installation kits were like $200 to $250.  I got about $145 in the puller and installer tools I ordered. 

[Twolanerider]

Twolanerider  Yeah, I ordered the inner race installation tool as well.  Another $45.  The puller / installation kits were like $200 to $250.  I got about $145 in the puller and installer tools I ordered.

Cool.  Good catch.  Will be curious how your new mousetrap work.  Be sure and share a little as you go .

[trippy]

Had the Baker one piece bearing and seal in my 07 CVO road king for 4 years now, was fine untill last spring then started to leak, changed the seal twice (checked the shaft for condition and protected the seal from the splines) and still leaks, tried different (and more exspensive ) seals with no effect, so given up now, only get a single drip and only on a long run, so just give the underneath a clean before a ride and again after. Good Luck.

[Twolanerider]

Had the Baker one piece bearing and seal in my 07 CVO road king for 4 years now, was fine untill last spring then started to leak, changed the seal twice (checked the shaft for condition and protected the seal from the splines) and still leaks, tried different (and more exspensive ) seals with no effect, so given up now, only get a single drip and only on a long run, so just give the underneath a clean before a ride and again after. Good Luck.

I've been fortunate and never (yet [knock on wood]) had a problem with one of the Baker kits leaking.  Any excessive runout on the mainshaft or the primary chain a little too tight?

[longlast]

 I'm jumping in a bit late here but,....

I'm a bit confused,..I know it doesn't take much for me now a days,...but if I understand the oil is leaking only or more so on the jiffy.
If that's the case there wouldn't be any oil at the inner primary bearing seal.
Is/was there signs of oil had  been running down the the back of the inner primary case from the seal.
Is it primary oil ?
Has the transmission oil level been checked?  The input shifter shaft seal or the transmission  input shaft seal may be the fault of leakage when on the jiffy.
One other thing to check the derby cover where the fastener holes are in the cover if they get over tightened on the back side of the hole it will mushroom ever so slightly but it will be enough to leak. Take a file and run it over the holes to remove any mushrooming of the holes (careful not to over tighten the fasteners or you're back to square one.
It was mentioned the bearing race walking forward possibly causing the transmission seal to leak the race will not touch the the seal. It just doesn't appear to me that it's the race that's at fault.
I'm just puzzled about it leaking more on the jiffy for it to be the inner primary seal as there wouldn't be any oil there.

It's probably to late but if not take paper towel pack it tight up between the primary and the transmission tape some under the derby cover when you remove the toweling then you can tell where its coming from by the oil stain on the towel.

As for removing the race there's no expense required.   Take a grinding wheel carefully and lightly run the wheel back and forth the length of the race in one spot as it grinds more and  more of the race away it will then just crack open like an egg and slide off.
It will bo this because it's under high pressure being that it's been pressed on the shaft, in a sense it's being stretched so as you cut away the metal it will crack open to release the pressure on it.
BTW.it will crack open before you get near the shaft as long as you do it evenly along the full length of the race

Good luck on what ever way you proceed.  Let's know the outcome.