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[Twolanerider]

The pic is the back of an 06 and later regulator.  The pins illustrated as "Pin 1" and "Pin 2" are the pair that go back to the bike to charge the battery.  Would someone with an 06 and later Touring schematic let me know which pin is hot and which is ground?  Thanks.

Please note: My "Pin1" and "Pin 2" designations are abitrary and just for identification.  It can't be assumed they'll match similar designations in a factory wiring diagram.

[cvobiker]

Pin 1 is ground... send me your FAX and I'll FAX you the symatic tommorow morning...  if you need it anyway

[cvobiker]

TwoLane,,,,,, No Need for fax,, i broke out the instructions for my Scanner.. You popped my scanner cherry    i no longer have a virgin scaner   

[Twolanerider]

TwoLane,,,,,, No Need for fax,, i broke out the instructions for my Scanner.. You popped my scanner cherry    i no longer have a virgin scaner   

Thanks.  Very much.  That one single connection was going to force me to buy a newer manual if no one here had the info.  And congrats on the scanner cherry !

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Pin 1 is ground... send me your FAX and I'll FAX you the symatic tommorow morning...  if you need it anyway

looking at my new one I swear the pin one was the one with the sqaured off corner of the connector... am I mistaken? (I really dont wwant to take it back apart since its all back together except the connection of the wires.)

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[iski]

The pic is the back of an 06 and later regulator.  The pins illustrated as "Pin 1" and "Pin 2" are the pair that go back to the bike to charge the battery.  Would someone with an 06 and later Touring schematic let me know which pin is hot and which is ground?  Thanks.

Please note: My "Pin1" and "Pin 2" designations are abitrary and just for identification.  It can't be assumed they'll match similar designations in a factory wiring diagram.

I miss the dead cat pictures. 

[grc]

See attachment, click on it to enlarge. 

Jerry

[2018_FLTRXSE]

See attachment, click on it to enlarge. 

Jerry

Jerry, in that one (image) it is pin one..

If you look at Twolanes original picture and description the pins are (or appear to be) labelled the opposite.

I'm just maiking sure I dont make a regulator-frying mistake before I hook all of this up...

(Yes, I realize that I could fire it up with a voltmeter connected to it to check, but realize that with a sidehack, I might as well be working on the worst engineered POS you can imagine. I am trying at all costs to avoid disconnecting the hack and putting it on the lift in the garage but in another day or so I am going to give up that ship, create a few new words that start with F and end with K and do just that.)

Rob

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[grc]

The wire to the hot side is the one on the end of the connector with the corner of the connector cut off, indicated by my red arrow and corresponding to pin number two in this schematic.  Twolane didn't number his based on the schematic, he just numbered them for reference.  I know what you mean about doing this stuff without a lift, and also about all the new words likely to be uttered.  Just take your time and it should work out fine.

Jerry

[2018_FLTRXSE]

The wire to the hot side is the one on the end of the connector with the corner of the connector cut off, indicated by my red arrow and corresponding to pin number two in this schematic.  Twolane didn't number his based on the schematic, he just numbered them for reference.  I know what you mean about doing this stuff without a lift, and also about all the new words likely to be uttered.  Just take your time and it should work out fine.

Jerry

Jerry,

Yesterday attempting to pulling the trans side cover without dropping the exhaust wasnt going to happen.

Trying to work on the exhaust with the hack is trying my patience... now might be a time to install the manual reverse.

(Once I get the exhaust off) ... more new words generated.

Maybe a good true-dual exhaust?

(It'll make it easier to drop the exhaust than the OE crossover system)

Time to order more junk...

Rob

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[Twolanerider]

Jerry,

Yesterday attempting to pulling the trans side cover without dropping the exhaust wasnt going to happen.

Trying to work on the exhaust with the hack is trying my patience... now might be a time to install the manual reverse.

(Once I get the exhaust off) ... more new words generated.

Maybe a good true-dual exhaust?

(It'll make it easier to drop the exhaust than the OE crossover system)

Time to order more junk...

Rob

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None of the charging system upgrade requires removing the tranny side cover or exhaust.  Have other chores going on that requires this?  Hopefully got the hot versus negative pin on the regulator sorted.  And, if it could be accomplished without upsetting HFA (Higher Financial Authority) to the point that she got very cranky I would definitely consider the reverse if all that was necessary to get there was already off for some reason.

True duals do give you some service functionality you don't have otherwise.  There is an ease to having the cylinders completely separated you don't get any other way.  Some level of performance loss is accepted when we do this.  Having said that I ran (and liked) true duals for a long long time on several bikes.  If it's just service easy you're basing the decision on duals are an option that is hard to dismiss.

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Twolane, when I slacked the clutch cable to loosen it I apparently slacked it too far and it either undid itself from its hook or the ball broke off. (I was going to adjust it anyway... I just backed it off too far. when I started tightening it up I knew it felt funny..

So since the PO changed it to a polished aluminum and I'd prefer chrome or something is some other kind of OCD-shiny I'm going to take it off and repace it since I'm in there. The exhaust isnt the prettiest either so I'm looking for an excuse to change it at this point.

Wife wants an easy-clutch in it so she can ride it and take the mutt to the dog park without me.

Just gotta get off my ass and finish it between all the meetings like the one I'm in right now.. 

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[Twolanerider]

Twolane, when I slacked the clutch cable to loosen it I apparently slacked it too far and it either undid itself from its hook or the ball broke off. (I was going to adjust it anyway... I just backed it off too far. when I started tightening it up I knew it felt funny..

So since the PO changed it to a polished aluminum and I'd prefer chrome or something is some other kind of OCD-shiny I'm going to take it off and repace it since I'm in there. The exhaust isnt the prettiest either so I'm looking for an excuse to change it at this point.

Wife wants an easy-clutch in it so she can ride it and take the mutt to the dog park without me.

Just gotta get off my ass and finish it between all the meetings like the one I'm in right now.. 

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That all makes sense.  The snowball effect.  Been there and bought the snow cone.

The easy pull clutch kits for inside the side cover actually do help.  The centrifugal accessory for the other side is a super easy addition and helps with both clutch pull a pressure also.  Just something else to consider.

If the goal is ease of service between the bike and the hack I'd have to consider duals also.  With a good set of mufflers behind them you don't lose as much as many will preach.  A 2-1 is also a relatively easy on-and-off and you'll gain better performance than you would with the duals.  Not everyone likes the 2-1 look on a bagger though. 

If you consider 2-1 many will preach the FatCats for a stock or stockish 95" bagger.  I like the FatCats.  But not as much as I used to.  They've gotten REALLY expensive and they are noisy loud.  Much more so than I care for anymore.  An equally performing pipe that isn't nearly as loud is the Supertrap Supermegg.

Any dual look with a combined crossover might be a performance consideration over a true dual but you'll lose the ease of service the true dual would offer when the fat arse is scrunched up between the bike and hack.  I've just recently put the S&S dual cross under pipe and my Road King.  Like it a lot.  Fit is good.  It's not a difficult to service pipe.  But it would still be more hassle than would totally separate front and rear pieces when working between bike and sidecar.

What reverse options you considering?  That's something I've never installed on a bike.  So color me curious about what you're considering?

[2018_FLTRXSE]

After five hours of swearing, I got the exhaust off and all the bits and pieces off.

What I found was an act of my stupidity (No doubt)... The inside of the tans cover where the c-clip resides had cracked. Apparently when I squeezed the clutch the first time it over-rotated up the ramp and maxed itself out against the c-clip, the cast aluminum right where the c-clip groove is the thinnest and subsquently is the weakest point. <snap>...

So, now, it will be another  2 weeks before I get parts... snowball time.

The side cover was polished aluminum, it needed replaceing to chrome... the top cover is pitting, my OCD says replace. the cam cover is the same, as are the  rocker covers. and tappet blocks... so I guess we are going through the whole thing.

Roller rockers, breathers, etc. New lifters? I guess so since I'm in there. Oil pump upgrades?? Cam chain tensioners?? Since the cam cover will be open all of these seem like reasonable things to do. Nothing special under the trans top cover except maybe replacing the neutral switch.

Without the ability to tune the M&M system leaving the motor fundamentally stock only makes sense. (I dont want to open the Thundermax can of worms just yet) 

Exhaust: I was thinking a Thunderheader with the falsie to complete the look to make it bagger-correct if I go 2 into 1... true dual there arent too many options for the older bikes still on the market... that arent stupid loud. The TH I like the sound and it makes nice power and TQ.

Reverse: The guy that normally services my bikes was mentioning reverse options to me. There are both full manual and an electrically actuated version. It bolts on between the cover and the trap door. Very simple to install. Manual lever actuation. Especially now that everything is apart now is probably the best time to do this.

I'll try to get more information on this from him ... simce I'm back in a holding pattern (again) it sucks living on a rock with only one dealer.


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[Twolanerider]

The retaining area for that large snap ring may not be you.  Have seen two of those break before.  One was a 2000 Road King of my own.  So that one can "just happen." 

Any of the cosmetics that are weak would drive you nuts if re-installed.  So it's cheaper to replace them now than it would be to pay the psychiatrist for the analysis time what would sure come from the psychological trauma of putting pitted parts back on the bike.  Seriously, it's called PTSD for a reason.  Pitted-parts Totally Should-be Destroyed.

If you're off at the top there is a newer version of the engine breathers that are cheap and worthwhile.  Roller rockers aren't necessary for what you're doing.  You definitely want to change lifters.  Oil pump and the newer hydraulic tensioners are part of that updated cam plate we discussed before; so you'll already have them covered.  If the neutral switch isn't broke there's no reason to fix it.  Just wipe any gunk off it's bottom side.

Thunderheader can be stupid loud.  It's also way too much pipe for a stock or even relatively stock 95.  If you're thinking 2-1 consider either the SuperMeg or the FatCat.  FatCat is louder than the SuperMeg but they do offer a falsie.  Personally I was never interested in the fake left side pipe in the years I've ran 2-1.  Not paying good money for parts that don't do anything and still have to be cleaned.

Marelli.....   Oh my.  First off, and unlike many, I don't hate the M&M bikes.  They can be worked on.  They are different so you need some familiarity.  They are limited in how much power you can build and still tune.  Assuming you're not going real big they just aren't as bad as they're often made out to be though.  Problem is parts availability.  Mother Harley has obsoleted some M&M parts.  So even if you wanted to work on it you sometimes have limited options.

I've installed two of the Thundermax kits to replace Marelli.  Anymore I'd not suggest it.  T-Max is behind the curve technically, it's an involved installation, and you're still parts-limited if you break down on the side of the road somewhere.  It's not like anyone is going to have the altered fuel lines or will understand the slight harness changes you had to make; and that's without considering at all the changes at the throttle body. 

If the Marelli system is still working fine and you're not changing cams and you're not changing exhaust significantly enough you'd have to retune the bike you can consider not fixing what isn't broken.  Just keep running it.  Perhaps do this while parts are being collected for the next project?  If a Marelli swap-out is the next project my suggestion to anyone doing it is one of two:

Change it to a carburetor

Change it to a later model Delphi setup

The carb swap is easier and cheaper.  The Delphi swap is what I eventually did to my own.  Those parts are readily available and will be for a long time.  Maintained the benefits of FI and did it with a newer and more tune-able system.  Spent six months watching eBay for deals and it wasn't terrible cost wise either.  I've done carb swaps on Marelli bikes too. There are (to me) obvious benefits to FI over carburetors.  But it's whatever floats one's boat.

If you're keeping Marelli on the bike but do need to tune it a bit to match engine work there is an option that is easy.  It's an old one but it gets the job done and matches up to what needs to be done.  The old PowerCommander III will let you easily dial in a Marelli bike.  It's just an overlay over the existing map.  Once you play with it just a bit it's not bad to do.  Again, I'd not spend the money here if not necessary.  Would probably even try to limp along without it and put that cash towards the Delphi or carb swap.  But PCIII for a Marelli bike is still out there and is an easy option.