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Author Topic: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations  (Read 3972 times)

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Twolanerider

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Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« on: May 20, 2011, 02:40:56 PM »

The pic is the back of an 06 and later regulator.  The pins illustrated as "Pin 1" and "Pin 2" are the pair that go back to the bike to charge the battery.  Would someone with an 06 and later Touring schematic let me know which pin is hot and which is ground?  Thanks.

Please note: My "Pin1" and "Pin 2" designations are abitrary and just for identification.  It can't be assumed they'll match similar designations in a factory wiring diagram.
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cvobiker

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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2011, 01:27:06 AM »

Pin 1 is ground... send me your FAX and I'll FAX you the symatic tommorow morning...  if you need it anyway
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2011, 01:38:03 AM »

TwoLane,,,,,, No Need for fax,, i broke out the instructions for my Scanner.. You popped my scanner cherry   :huepfenjump3: :huepfenjump3: :huepfenjump3: i no longer have a virgin scaner   :P
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Twolanerider

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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2011, 10:52:23 AM »

TwoLane,,,,,, No Need for fax,, i broke out the instructions for my Scanner.. You popped my scanner cherry   :huepfenjump3: :huepfenjump3: :huepfenjump3: i no longer have a virgin scaner   :P


Thanks.  Very much.  That one single connection was going to force me to buy a newer manual if no one here had the info.  And congrats on the scanner cherry :cherry: :drink: !
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2019, 02:03:40 PM »

Pin 1 is ground... send me your FAX and I'll FAX you the symatic tommorow morning...  if you need it anyway
looking at my new one I swear the pin one was the one with the sqaured off corner of the connector... am I mistaken? (I really dont wwant to take it back apart since its all back together except the connection of the wires.)

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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2019, 02:25:12 PM »

The pic is the back of an 06 and later regulator.  The pins illustrated as "Pin 1" and "Pin 2" are the pair that go back to the bike to charge the battery.  Would someone with an 06 and later Touring schematic let me know which pin is hot and which is ground?  Thanks.

Please note: My "Pin1" and "Pin 2" designations are abitrary and just for identification.  It can't be assumed they'll match similar designations in a factory wiring diagram.

I miss the dead cat pictures. 
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2019, 02:26:02 PM »

See attachment, click on it to enlarge. 

Jerry
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2019, 05:19:40 PM »

See attachment, click on it to enlarge. 

Jerry
Jerry, in that one (image) it is pin one..

If you look at Twolanes original picture and description the pins are (or appear to be) labelled the opposite.

I'm just maiking sure I dont make a regulator-frying mistake before I hook all of this up...

(Yes, I realize that I could fire it up with a voltmeter connected to it to check, but realize that with a sidehack, I might as well be working on the worst engineered POS you can imagine. I am trying at all costs to avoid disconnecting the hack and putting it on the lift in the garage but in another day or so I am going to give up that ship, create a few new words that start with F and end with K and do just that.)

Rob

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« Last Edit: September 22, 2019, 01:23:28 PM by 2018_FLTRXSE »
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2019, 05:35:00 PM »

The wire to the hot side is the one on the end of the connector with the corner of the connector cut off, indicated by my red arrow and corresponding to pin number two in this schematic.  Twolane didn't number his based on the schematic, he just numbered them for reference.  I know what you mean about doing this stuff without a lift, and also about all the new words likely to be uttered.  Just take your time and it should work out fine.

Jerry
« Last Edit: September 17, 2019, 05:40:06 PM by grc »
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2019, 02:47:15 PM »

The wire to the hot side is the one on the end of the connector with the corner of the connector cut off, indicated by my red arrow and corresponding to pin number two in this schematic.  Twolane didn't number his based on the schematic, he just numbered them for reference.  I know what you mean about doing this stuff without a lift, and also about all the new words likely to be uttered.  Just take your time and it should work out fine.

Jerry
Jerry,

Yesterday attempting to pulling the trans side cover without dropping the exhaust wasnt going to happen.

Trying to work on the exhaust with the hack is trying my patience... now might be a time to install the manual reverse.

(Once I get the exhaust off) ... more new words generated.

Maybe a good true-dual exhaust?

(It'll make it easier to drop the exhaust than the OE crossover system)

Time to order more junk...

Rob

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« Last Edit: September 22, 2019, 01:23:53 PM by 2018_FLTRXSE »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #10 on: September 18, 2019, 03:19:42 PM »

Jerry,

Yesterday attempting to pulling the trans side cover without dropping the exhaust wasnt going to happen.

Trying to work on the exhaust with the hack is trying my patience... now might be a time to install the manual reverse.

(Once I get the exhaust off) ... more new words generated.

Maybe a good true-dual exhaust?

(It'll make it easier to drop the exhaust than the OE crossover system)

Time to order more junk...

Rob

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None of the charging system upgrade requires removing the tranny side cover or exhaust.  Have other chores going on that requires this?  Hopefully got the hot versus negative pin on the regulator sorted.  And, if it could be accomplished without upsetting HFA (Higher Financial Authority) to the point that she got very cranky I would definitely consider the reverse if all that was necessary to get there was already off for some reason.

True duals do give you some service functionality you don't have otherwise.  There is an ease to having the cylinders completely separated you don't get any other way.  Some level of performance loss is accepted when we do this.  Having said that I ran (and liked) true duals for a long long time on several bikes.  If it's just service easy you're basing the decision on duals are an option that is hard to dismiss.
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #11 on: September 18, 2019, 08:04:27 PM »

Twolane, when I slacked the clutch cable to loosen it I apparently slacked it too far and it either undid itself from its hook or the ball broke off. (I was going to adjust it anyway... I just backed it off too far. when I started tightening it up I knew it felt funny..

So since the PO changed it to a polished aluminum and I'd prefer chrome or something is some other kind of OCD-shiny I'm going to take it off and repace it since I'm in there. The exhaust isnt the prettiest either so I'm looking for an excuse to change it at this point.

Wife wants an easy-clutch in it so she can ride it and take the mutt to the dog park without me.

Just gotta get off my ass and finish it between all the meetings like the one I'm in right now..  :)

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Twolanerider

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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #12 on: September 18, 2019, 08:24:04 PM »

Twolane, when I slacked the clutch cable to loosen it I apparently slacked it too far and it either undid itself from its hook or the ball broke off. (I was going to adjust it anyway... I just backed it off too far. when I started tightening it up I knew it felt funny..

So since the PO changed it to a polished aluminum and I'd prefer chrome or something is some other kind of OCD-shiny I'm going to take it off and repace it since I'm in there. The exhaust isnt the prettiest either so I'm looking for an excuse to change it at this point.

Wife wants an easy-clutch in it so she can ride it and take the mutt to the dog park without me.

Just gotta get off my ass and finish it between all the meetings like the one I'm in right now..  :)

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That all makes sense.  The snowball effect.  Been there and bought the snow cone.

The easy pull clutch kits for inside the side cover actually do help.  The centrifugal accessory for the other side is a super easy addition and helps with both clutch pull a pressure also.  Just something else to consider.

If the goal is ease of service between the bike and the hack I'd have to consider duals also.  With a good set of mufflers behind them you don't lose as much as many will preach.  A 2-1 is also a relatively easy on-and-off and you'll gain better performance than you would with the duals.  Not everyone likes the 2-1 look on a bagger though. 

If you consider 2-1 many will preach the FatCats for a stock or stockish 95" bagger.  I like the FatCats.  But not as much as I used to.  They've gotten REALLY expensive and they are noisy loud.  Much more so than I care for anymore.  An equally performing pipe that isn't nearly as loud is the Supertrap Supermegg.

Any dual look with a combined crossover might be a performance consideration over a true dual but you'll lose the ease of service the true dual would offer when the fat arse is scrunched up between the bike and hack.  I've just recently put the S&S dual cross under pipe and my Road King.  Like it a lot.  Fit is good.  It's not a difficult to service pipe.  But it would still be more hassle than would totally separate front and rear pieces when working between bike and sidecar.

What reverse options you considering?  That's something I've never installed on a bike.  So color me curious about what you're considering?
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #13 on: September 21, 2019, 05:45:22 PM »

After five hours of swearing, I got the exhaust off and all the bits and pieces off.

What I found was an act of my stupidity (No doubt)... The inside of the tans cover where the c-clip resides had cracked. Apparently when I squeezed the clutch the first time it over-rotated up the ramp and maxed itself out against the c-clip, the cast aluminum right where the c-clip groove is the thinnest and subsquently is the weakest point. <snap>...

So, now, it will be another  2 weeks before I get parts... snowball time.

The side cover was polished aluminum, it needed replaceing to chrome... the top cover is pitting, my OCD says replace. the cam cover is the same, as are the  rocker covers. and tappet blocks... so I guess we are going through the whole thing.

Roller rockers, breathers, etc. New lifters? I guess so since I'm in there. Oil pump upgrades?? Cam chain tensioners?? Since the cam cover will be open all of these seem like reasonable things to do. Nothing special under the trans top cover except maybe replacing the neutral switch.

Without the ability to tune the M&M system leaving the motor fundamentally stock only makes sense. (I dont want to open the Thundermax can of worms just yet) 

Exhaust: I was thinking a Thunderheader with the falsie to complete the look to make it bagger-correct if I go 2 into 1... true dual there arent too many options for the older bikes still on the market... that arent stupid loud. The TH I like the sound and it makes nice power and TQ.

Reverse: The guy that normally services my bikes was mentioning reverse options to me. There are both full manual and an electrically actuated version. It bolts on between the cover and the trap door. Very simple to install. Manual lever actuation. Especially now that everything is apart now is probably the best time to do this.

I'll try to get more information on this from him ... simce I'm back in a holding pattern (again) it sucks living on a rock with only one dealer.


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Twolanerider

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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #14 on: September 21, 2019, 07:18:15 PM »


The retaining area for that large snap ring may not be you.  Have seen two of those break before.  One was a 2000 Road King of my own.  So that one can "just happen." 

Any of the cosmetics that are weak would drive you nuts if re-installed.  So it's cheaper to replace them now than it would be to pay the psychiatrist for the analysis time what would sure come from the psychological trauma of putting pitted parts back on the bike.  Seriously, it's called PTSD for a reason.  Pitted-parts Totally Should-be Destroyed.

If you're off at the top there is a newer version of the engine breathers that are cheap and worthwhile.  Roller rockers aren't necessary for what you're doing.  You definitely want to change lifters.  Oil pump and the newer hydraulic tensioners are part of that updated cam plate we discussed before; so you'll already have them covered.  If the neutral switch isn't broke there's no reason to fix it.  Just wipe any gunk off it's bottom side.

Thunderheader can be stupid loud.  It's also way too much pipe for a stock or even relatively stock 95.  If you're thinking 2-1 consider either the SuperMeg or the FatCat.  FatCat is louder than the SuperMeg but they do offer a falsie.  Personally I was never interested in the fake left side pipe in the years I've ran 2-1.  Not paying good money for parts that don't do anything and still have to be cleaned.

Marelli.....   Oh my.  First off, and unlike many, I don't hate the M&M bikes.  They can be worked on.  They are different so you need some familiarity.  They are limited in how much power you can build and still tune.  Assuming you're not going real big they just aren't as bad as they're often made out to be though.  Problem is parts availability.  Mother Harley has obsoleted some M&M parts.  So even if you wanted to work on it you sometimes have limited options.

I've installed two of the Thundermax kits to replace Marelli.  Anymore I'd not suggest it.  T-Max is behind the curve technically, it's an involved installation, and you're still parts-limited if you break down on the side of the road somewhere.  It's not like anyone is going to have the altered fuel lines or will understand the slight harness changes you had to make; and that's without considering at all the changes at the throttle body. 

If the Marelli system is still working fine and you're not changing cams and you're not changing exhaust significantly enough you'd have to retune the bike you can consider not fixing what isn't broken.  Just keep running it.  Perhaps do this while parts are being collected for the next project?  If a Marelli swap-out is the next project my suggestion to anyone doing it is one of two:

Change it to a carburetor

Change it to a later model Delphi setup

The carb swap is easier and cheaper.  The Delphi swap is what I eventually did to my own.  Those parts are readily available and will be for a long time.  Maintained the benefits of FI and did it with a newer and more tune-able system.  Spent six months watching eBay for deals and it wasn't terrible cost wise either.  I've done carb swaps on Marelli bikes too. There are (to me) obvious benefits to FI over carburetors.  But it's whatever floats one's boat.

If you're keeping Marelli on the bike but do need to tune it a bit to match engine work there is an option that is easy.  It's an old one but it gets the job done and matches up to what needs to be done.  The old PowerCommander III will let you easily dial in a Marelli bike.  It's just an overlay over the existing map.  Once you play with it just a bit it's not bad to do.  Again, I'd not spend the money here if not necessary.  Would probably even try to limp along without it and put that cash towards the Delphi or carb swap.  But PCIII for a Marelli bike is still out there and is an easy option.
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2018_FLTRXSE

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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2019, 01:06:19 PM »




Good to know it (probably) wasnt me... come to think of it the similar may have happened on my wife's first FXDL many years ago.. so you're probably right.

Corroded parts... ugh. shopping fleabay now.  Granted I dont "need" roller rockers... that doesn't mean I don't want them... LOL. I'f I'm pulling rocker box covers I'm not doing it for no reason other than swapping chrome.. (I'm just using it as an excuse!) I knew about the breathers from my service guy.. The "if youre going to open it up.. you can upgrade the.... " (Here's where the snowball begins... )

If the bike wasn't at the house in pieces I'd just let him take it and fix it. But he would have the same parts problem.

Exhaust: Thunderheader has a bearable sound. the bike currently has V&H slip ons which I don't care for.  I'd rather put my spare set of fullsac CVO cored mufflers on it. I also don't want to wrestle with the duals with the crossovers. fullsac makes a kit to make it a true dual. My problem still comes with re-coating the pipes and heat shields locally. I'll look into the Fatcat or the Supermeg. The falsie isn't a "need, its a nice to have," the other option is trying my spare '09 pipe (why this is still hanging in my closet I don't know) and seeing how it fits (Or doesn't)

You're correct that the M&M is a love it or leave it system... it either runs flawlessly or is a headache for some.... Example: with basically stock bikes (My friend has 99k on his 2000 FLTRSEI) the only mod is Rhineharts, colder plugs and a "regulator mod" an old harley tech did for him to increase pressure. (I believe it involved compressing the regulator slighty to increase pressure, the same thing we used to do with turbo buicks BITD). He has changed fuel pumps a couple of times according to the service interval.  Mine is still stock but doesnt have anywhere near the miles. Mine runs great as well.

I'd leave mine intact for the reasons noted. The T-max can be a handful because it inst mainstream (Enough) and the parts are not easy to get. much like running Big Stuff 3 for an automotive application.

The neutral switch ain't broken (yet) but being the equivalent of a bull in a china shop, its probably safer for me to have a spare available because I'm sure the dealer wont have it if I need it!


   
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2019, 01:26:43 PM »

Back when Supertrapp products first came out, they used to have both an open end cap and a closed end cap included with the components.

Do you know if this is still the case?

If volume is an issue for this old man...  :huepfenlol2:
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #17 on: September 22, 2019, 01:41:37 PM »



Good to know it (probably) wasnt me... come to think of it the similar may have happened on my wife's first FXDL many years ago.. so you're probably right.

Corroded parts... ugh. shopping fleabay now.  Granted I dont "need" roller rockers... that doesn't mean I don't want them... LOL. I'f I'm pulling rocker box covers I'm not doing it for no reason other than swapping chrome.. (I'm just using it as an excuse!) I knew about the breathers from my service guy.. The "if youre going to open it up.. you can upgrade the.... " (Here's where the snowball begins... )

If the bike wasn't at the house in pieces I'd just let him take it and fix it. But he would have the same parts problem.

Exhaust: Thunderheader has a bearable sound. the bike currently has V&H slip ons which I don't care for.  I'd rather put my spare set of fullsac CVO cored mufflers on it. I also don't want to wrestle with the duals with the crossovers. fullsac makes a kit to make it a true dual. My problem still comes with re-coating the pipes and heat shields locally. I'll look into the Fatcat or the Supermeg. The falsie isn't a "need, its a nice to have," the other option is trying my spare '09 pipe (why this is still hanging in my closet I don't know) and seeing how it fits (Or doesn't)

You're correct that the M&M is a love it or leave it system... it either runs flawlessly or is a headache for some.... Example: with basically stock bikes (My friend has 99k on his 2000 FLTRSEI) the only mod is Rhineharts, colder plugs and a "regulator mod" an old harley tech did for him to increase pressure. (I believe it involved compressing the regulator slighty to increase pressure, the same thing we used to do with turbo buicks BITD). He has changed fuel pumps a couple of times according to the service interval.  Mine is still stock but doesnt have anywhere near the miles. Mine runs great as well.

I'd leave mine intact for the reasons noted. The T-max can be a handful because it inst mainstream (Enough) and the parts are not easy to get. much like running Big Stuff 3 for an automotive application.

The neutral switch ain't broken (yet) but being the equivalent of a bull in a china shop, its probably safer for me to have a spare available because I'm sure the dealer wont have it if I need it!


   

You're deep in the weeds now!!  :huepfenlol2:   I know that forest of weeds.  Been there and bought the spare parts tickets :drink: !  We know, in our minds, that the enemy of perfectly good enough is sometimes the desire/need/2nd beer compulsion to make it just a little bit better.  Sane people around us say, "you sure about that Bubba?"  Then we merely act like we consider their ideas and warning before, BAM, it's off to eBay we go!!

Let's see, my old Road Glide.....  Brembos all the way around, Delphi 04-05 so it had to have new instruments and cruise module along with everything else, radio....   Oh, God, I'm not starting this list.  I'm just not in to that kind of masochism today.  By the way, it's powder coated and diamond cut cylinders and heads that are part of its engine upgrade work (including the newer automatic compression releases) are all here in a pile.  Some weekend soon!!   :coolblue: :huepfenlol2: :coolblue:  (gawd it's a sickness)

Ok, roller rockers.  Expensive and ,unless you're really stepping up the cam, expensive to no real benefit.  Plus you'll have to grind out part of the upper rocker boxes for clearance.  Not a big deal.  Just something else you'll have to do.  Roller rocker money (if getting name brand pieces) could buy you have an exhaust system?

Exhaust choices are like religion.  You pray to whomever brings you the most peace. If you try an 09 exhaust system that crossed under you won't have the mounting locations at the back of the oil pan necessary to make it work.

Hey, just thought of something else.  While you're in the "upgrade" mindset here's a part to inspect carefully.  Check out your swingarm.  The pre-02 swingarms had a tendency to crack and/or twist.  Make sure yours is ok.  Look very carefully around where the axle goes through.  It's worth an inspection at every oil change.  You can change to the 02-08 swingarms to eliminate the problem but it will involve more parts than just the swingarm.
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #18 on: September 22, 2019, 01:43:32 PM »

Back when Supertrapp products first came out, they used to have both an open end cap and a closed end cap included with the components.

Do you know if this is still the case?

If volume is an issue for this old man...  :huepfenlol2:

I'd forgotten about that.  They could be cranky sounding too.  Is exhaust sound better when it can quickly leave your island and just bounce across the water like an exhaust tsunami scaring the hell out of fishes?
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #19 on: September 22, 2019, 02:09:38 PM »

Ha!

Got the Brembo's already. need the Brake master... which now makes my new edge cut levers useless. (Glad they were Amazon specials and and not OEM HD). Did the swingarm inspection at last oil change. Had a brief thought of using the 07-08 CVO parts and making it a fat tire bike. But with the narrow drive belt and the hack? NO WAY... unless I do a chain drive conversion...   (Snowball??) if I can find all the parts I'll consider it... someone here is always trying to "Get rid" of something.

I know I don't need roller rockers... but after having them in the FXDL and how much quieter the valvetrain was I would disagree. It was a 95" with 204 cams.. fairly mild

I ride the Hack harder than the FXDL ever got ridden... (OK.. maybe not... I used to torment sportbikes with it... It was quick for a little bike.  :huepfenlol2: ) But I do ride the hack every day when its up and running.

EFI... done factory EFI conversions on cars... bikes should be pretty easy. I'm not new to wrenching, but my injury wasn't just to my back, I landed on my head. I still have blank spots in my memory from then. Just gotta use the reference materials and I should be fine.
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #20 on: September 22, 2019, 02:53:32 PM »

Ha!

Got the Brembo's already. need the Brake master... which now makes my new edge cut levers useless. (Glad they were Amazon specials and and not OEM HD). Did the swingarm inspection at last oil change. Had a brief thought of using the 07-08 CVO parts and making it a fat tire bike. But with the narrow drive belt and the hack? NO WAY... unless I do a chain drive conversion...   (Snowball??) if I can find all the parts I'll consider it... someone here is always trying to "Get rid" of something.

I know I don't need roller rockers... but after having them in the FXDL and how much quieter the valvetrain was I would disagree. It was a 95" with 204 cams.. fairly mild

I ride the Hack harder than the FXDL ever got ridden... (OK.. maybe not... I used to torment sportbikes with it... It was quick for a little bike.  :huepfenlol2: ) But I do ride the hack every day when its up and running.

EFI... done factory EFI conversions on cars... bikes should be pretty easy. I'm not new to wrenching, but my injury wasn't just to my back, I landed on my head. I still have blank spots in my memory from then. Just gotta use the reference materials and I should be fine.

You don't have to change the master cylinders to do the Brembo calipers.  I've done it both ways quite a few times. It works either way and works fine.  Rear I don't really find any difference in use at all.  Feel nor use.  Fronts there is a difference in the feel during pull.  The feedback you feel is different.  But both are good and work fine.  Right now my Road Glide and Road King both have Brembos on the front.  One has the newer MC while the other does not.  All good. 

The rear Brembo caliper won't mount to the current caliper bracket.  The Brembo's caliper bracket won't install with the current 3/4" axle.  So without doing the swingarm upgrade and going to it's bigger axle you can't yet make that jump in the back end.  Front end is certainly do-able though and is a noticeable improvement.

The EFI conversion on your Marelli bike really isn't hard.  It's just a small butt ton of parts.  Different pump and sender in the tank.  Harnesses.  If you go 02-03 you won't have to change cruise control module and instruments.  If you go 04-05 (or newer) you will need instruments and a cruise control module.  You'll need a fitting that fills one of the two fuel line holes in the gas tank (one source still offers that).  New Delphi style fuel line.  New complete throttle body.  Different battery try for under the seat.  ECM (02-03 at a minimum.  04 is newer bus but has limited memory.  05-06 is newer bus and has more internal memory and has the ability to handle 02 sensors if you wish to (worth doing).  Once all the parts are in hand it really is an easy one weekend / several beer job.  On top of all that, of course, will be some tuning device to dial the ECM for your engine.

Of course, if you were really salty, you could find all the harness, electronics and other parts off an 08 with ABS.  That's the one model year that would let you convert the old bike to newer AND include ABS.  I keep thinking one or both of mine will go this way someday.  Need to find a one-piece donor though so all electronics are all already paired up and know each other.  ABS is the only of the newer systems on any of the bikes I wish I had.

The swingarm isn't bad to do.  As will all this crap it's more than just the swingarm though.  Axle size is different so it's a new axle also.  A bushing kit to allow the newer swingarm with its larger front shaft holes hang on the transmission and its smaller shaft.  You can use your caliper bracket.  Just need to run a 1" bit through the center hole at a drill press then finish it out with a brake hone until the axle slides through comfortably.  And, of course, do something with the back wheel to make it accept the large axle.  Either replace it with newer or bore its center hole and go with 1" bearings and center spacer.  I've bored the center hole but only at a machine shop.  It's not something you'll do at home with a hand drill. Way too much meat to be removed and way too long a hole to do it.
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #21 on: September 22, 2019, 03:05:19 PM »

For the rear Brembo you machine a bushing for the caliper bracket to mate to the 3/4" axle shaft. then its a bolt in. (Service guy trick) he has a small lathe in his shop.

Maybe I can get lucky and find a crashed 08 ABS that is salvageable. My 08 SG had ABS... never thought I would need it until it saved my ass one night. (And I'm a pretty competent rider, or like to believe I am.)

Do I need to change the brake line? I haven't bought rotors yet... mainly because I just put new brakes on the bike when I did tires.

Maybe I'll start looking at the auction websites.. I have access via a friends account to bid.


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Twolanerider

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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #22 on: September 22, 2019, 03:30:39 PM »

For the rear Brembo you machine a bushing for the caliper bracket to mate to the 3/4" axle shaft. then its a bolt in. (Service guy trick) he has a small lathe in his shop.

Maybe I can get lucky and find a crashed 08 ABS that is salvageable. My 08 SG had ABS... never thought I would need it until it saved my ass one night. (And I'm a pretty competent rider, or like to believe I am.)

Do I need to change the brake line? I haven't bought rotors yet... mainly because I just put new brakes on the bike when I did tires.

Maybe I'll start looking at the auction websites.. I have access via a friends account to bid.

Brake line will work.  I've done the bushing route once.  Actually machined up five when I did it the first time and sold the rest on eBay.  Most don't have machining that as an option though.  It's just such a really good excuse to get ride of the old 9 spoke wagon wheel  ;D .

eBay has a few sellers that part out bikes.  I keep watching for one of them to start listing 08 specific parts and then will try to score all needed off one bike.  Doing this would be a bolt on also with one exception.  Rear master cylinder (as best as I can tell) will have to have one hole drilled in the frame for it to mount.  That's it though.  All the rest would be direct part swaps.
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #23 on: September 22, 2019, 04:40:36 PM »

I wasnt talking about ebay.. my other friend does auto repair and salvage and always sends me links to the bikes for sale. I have been following some of the ebay sellers. one of them recently had parts from a grey 01.

Never specifically saw an '08... right about now it'd be nice to have my old '08 FLHX back for parts!

Good to know I can use the old master. For the rear I'm a little more concerned as I already have a lack of volume due to the sidecar.
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #24 on: September 22, 2019, 04:53:23 PM »


Good to know I can use the old master. For the rear I'm a little more concerned as I already have a lack of volume due to the sidecar.



If you know....?  For the bikes that plumb fluid to a brake on the outside wheel of a hack is a larger volume cylinder used?
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Re: Question on 06 and later voltage regulator pin locations
« Reply #25 on: September 22, 2019, 05:20:16 PM »


If you know....?  For the bikes that plumb fluid to a brake on the outside wheel of a hack is a larger volume cylinder used?

Normally a larger volume reservoir mounted above the regulator on the cross brace on the frame. Fed by a hose.

The master has to be different... I recall my 89 with the factory hack had the similar setup. Googling now.
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