Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Rhino]

OK,

I haqve not opened it up yet, weather is just tooo nice to take the time, but calling for rain tommorrow,

If I understand correctly, this will work.

A. Remove outer fairing
B. Find Yellow wire juswt before spot switch in harness.  
C  Cut it and add a pigtail.
D. Plug it in the open fender circuit (which wire? Are there two on that plug BTW)
E. Retrn ther wire back to the yellow  and splice it back in ther harness on the spot side.
E. Voila!

Yes?

[amigo Jorge]

There is another way.

[Rhino]

Thanks Mr. Gomez!

[Rhino]

Hi All, Incl Fr8...


OK, I opened up the buzzards nest and shot some pix of the open fairing on the FLHTCUSE2.  Did that just to see inside, short a few wires and ...well , and ask for some help.

If you look you will see replicas I hope of what you guys have.

Since I don't know how to print on the pics or draw, it makes it more difficult.


On the fairing is a plug connected connector made up of 4 wires. They are the running lights and spots. Blue & Black and Grey & Purple (Spots&Run)


At the headlamp back to coupler and then to harness innards is 2 plugs, one to low and one to high. Low is yellow and black and high is white and black. At the coupler between the lamps is 3 yellow, 3 whites and 1 black. There is also a black pigtail, and a orange/white single from the coupler too.
One of those pigs is covered with a red cap.

Off the fairing, there is a blue and black wire to a connector that is open. I am sure this is the open fender light. Works when on, looks like it is connected to the running lights too.

So how do i isolate those spots on the existing switch, so when switching to high, the spots are unaffected?  and at the same time take them away from the headlamp circuit to the running light (fender tip) circuit? Plainspeak please with arrows would be nice.

The high beam is a 35 watter. Unbeleivable as a combo. Already changed out the low for a H9 65w with a razor knife, huge diff for sure. Will add a 55 to the high, combined with the 38 w I already added in place of the 27 watt spots.

I need the lights bad. The back roads here are full of wildlife, and I don't need a deer or pig adventure on the unlit backroads.

Help Me
Rhino
(aint afraid of bustin anything)

[Rhino]

another

[Rhino]

another

[Rhino]

another

[Rhino]

another..

[Rhino]

yet another

[Rhino]

So anyway, which wire at what place do i cut and then I stick it where.  Hey also saw them diodes where a yellow wire also goes.  Hmm, sorry, just the simplest wire to wire. A little cutting and splicing is a good thing, as long as it works.

Thanks ahead!

Rhino

[Midnight Rider]

Rhino...just did this to mine while changing the bars.

[Rhino]

I'm gonna grab a flashlight and go investigate.
After I take a look I may have one more ?

For now thank a you so a very much

Rhino!

[Rhino]

OK TC,

I found the harness and it is tight in there.  On the schematic, it shows the yellow going all the way from the interconnect harness (#6) and dissapears in a miriad of secret places, eventually  to the low beam, (as seen in pix). If power is coming along the yellow from the switch, to the harness and then to the low beam, would it not cut power to the low beam also?  Or , could I cut it further along the line where I can at least get at it?

The yellow splits, also runs from the low beam and to the handlebar, I assume the low/high beam switch.   Before I cut...howz it go? Measure twice cut once?

Thanks
R

[Rhino]

THEYSAY GIT ER DUN,  well i got it done.

Thanks so much!

Rhino

[Midnight Rider]

Rhino...what did you do?  It is tight in there.  On the 06, what I did allows the spots to be cut off, and the low beam remains on, and the spots remain on with the high beam/low beam.  The yellow wire to the spot switch is a hot not feeding anything but the spots....unless the diode blocks the signal to the spots when the high beam is on?  

Inquiring minds want to know?