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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin' Eagle® Road King® => Topic started by: Dead_Reckoning on March 14, 2012, 11:40:46 AM
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My 03 SERK Crusie controll has stared becoming intermitten.
After it has been in my garage all night, when i take it ou the next day, the Cruise Controll works perfectly.
After and hour or so, it doesn't want to Set/Resume, pretty sure it isn't the On/Off as I can see the little Red Led go On/Off with the switc.
So, I am thinking, "replace the switch".
According to my Parts Cat it is 77101-98 - Switch, Cruise Set/Resume. When i do a search by that P/N i do not find it.
I have read an HD Forum this was a common problem around the same years as my 03 SERK and one post mentioned that 71788-08 now superceeds the old P/N.
Any information would be much appreciated
DR
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mine has the same problem; however, it is no longer intermittent. Please post your fix.
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mine has the same problem; however, it is no longer intermittent. Please post your fix.
I certainly will
I believe there is and error code, but not certain whatit gives the error for.
DR
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try this. look along the right side of the frame behind the nacelle. find the small 2 wire connector that is attached to the throttle cable. disconnect it and go try your cruise control.
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try this. look along the right side of the frame behind the nacelle. find the small 2 wire connector that is attached to the throttle cable. disconnect it and go try your cruise control.
what happens when you disconnect the 2 wire connector? What is that telling you if the cruise now works?
Thanks
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Dennis, there are two cheap and easy things to try before spending any money. Open the switch clam shells enough to spray some contact cleaner in the switches then blow them out compressed air. Maybe even a couple of cycles doing this. It's not unknown the switches get gummed up.
The other common issue that's free to diagnose (and live with if you choose to) is the roll off switch that Neal mentioned. On right side of the frame just forward of the tank find two wires that plug in to a switch that's incorporated in the cable.
That switch shuts the cruise off if you move the throttle lever too far by hand. The cruise works fine with that switch disconnected. You just lose the manual shut off capability. Shut off by the brake levers works as it always did.
If the roll off switch turns out to the be problem you could just live with it (not uncommon). Or you could pull the tank, open up the nacelle, buy a cable and swap it out.
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Dennis, there are two cheap and easy things to try before spending any money. Open the switch clam shells enough to spray some contact cleaner in the switches then blow them out compressed air. Maybe even a couple of cycles doing this. It's not unknown the switches get gummed up.
The other common issue that's free to diagnose (and live with if you choose to) is the roll off switch that Neal mentioned. On right side of the frame just forward of the tank find two wires that plug in to a switch that's incorporated in the cable.
That switch shuts the cruise off if you move the throttle lever too far by hand. The cruise works fine with that switch disconnected. You just lose the manual shut off capability. Shut off by the brake levers works as it always did.
If the roll off switch turns out to the be problem you could just live with it (not uncommon). Or you could pull the tank, open up the nacelle, buy a cable and swap it out.
Thank You very much Don.
I will check that out. If that is the case, I can live without the Throttle Override switch.
In the attached phot, do I have the 2 wire plug identified correctly?
I did check local HD SD. They confirmed that the P/N is now 71788-08.
DR
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That's it.
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That's it.
Thank Ye Sir.
DR
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Two more easy things to check. make sure the front master cylinder is working properly. they can hang up right at the switching point for the switch and when you hit even a small bump it just turn on the brake lights long enough
to cancel the cruise. 2nd is rear bulb could be defective, may not even look bad. change it out with a front turn signal
bulbs. keep us posted. axil
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Two more easy things to check. make sure the front master cylinder is working properly. they can hang up right at the switching point for the switch and when you hit even a small bump it just turn on the brake lights long enough
to cancel the cruise. 2nd is rear bulb could be defective, may not even look bad. change it out with a front turn signal
bulbs. keep us posted. axil
Axil, when did that change with the brake light bulb? Do you happen to know. A 2000 Road King I used to have and the 2000 Road Glide now both behaved that way (cruise wouldn't work if the brake light was burned out). The 05 Electra Glide doesn't though.
None of them do with a load equalizer installed for using LED lights. The equalizer lies to the bike. But I never when between 2000 and 2005 that changed.
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Two more easy things to check. make sure the front master cylinder is working properly. they can hang up right at the switching point for the switch and when you hit even a small bump it just turn on the brake lights long enough
to cancel the cruise. 2nd is rear bulb could be defective, may not even look bad. change it out with a front turn signal
bulbs. keep us posted. axil
OK, I have the module installed to make my turn signals runing light, brake lights and turn signals.
I did that last july and everything has worked fine ever since, until now.
Both the rear pedal and front hndle turn or all three rear lights.
I will check the bulbs though.
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2L and dr, If the burned filament touches the other one or bounce around hits the other filament it can let enough voltage pass and turn off the cruise.
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2L and dr, If the burned filament touches the other one or bounce around hits the other pilament it can let enough voltage pass and turn off the cruise.
Thanks for that information
I will give them a closeup look tomorrow.
If, with the module, the rear turn signals are also in the brake light loop now, guess I should look at all three bulbs.
DR
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Latest update.
Took a ride with neighbor yesterday.
Same symptoms. Seems to work for hour or two, then quits.
This time I pulled over and disconnected the throttle override. Still didn't work.
When we got home my buddy said, he say my brake pedal illumintaed my brake lights but he didn't see my front brake lever illumintaed the brake lights.
When i put it in the garage, neith rear brake pedal or front brake lever illuminated the brake lights.
This moring, 13 hours later & ambient temp of 38 deg, both the front brake lever and rear brake peddal illumintaed the brake lights.
I pilled the Brake/Cruise Fuse. It doesm't looked burned, but has tiny crack on one leg.
Put in a new fuse, tomorrow I will try again.
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Today my neighbor and I rode about 130 mikes with a stop at 60 miles.
Mike followed me all the way.
I never attempted to try the Cruise Control
There were two periods where my Brake Lights stayed "On".
Then they went back to working normally.
So it is looking to me that back to the good information above, it may very well be the front brake lever hanging or possibly the rear brake pedal.
I use my front brakes most of the time, so leaning towards that.
Is there a switch for the front brake located in the LH handlebar cluster?
My Parts Cat shows me the Rear Brake Switch, I haven't found the front brake switch though.
DR
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DR, the brake light switch is in the right hand switch housing. your mastercylinder bore needs to cleaned. dirt, soap and water billed up between the piston and dust boot causing the piston to hang up a little and the wont depress the switchfar enough to turn off the light.
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DR, the brake light switch is in the right hand switch housing. your mastercylinder bore needs to cleaned. dirt, soap and water billed up between the piston and dust boot causing the piston to hang up a little and the wont depress the switchfar enough to turn off the light.
Thanks Axil
Can the same be true with the Rear Brake Pedal?
DR
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Thanks Axil
Can the same be true with the Rear Brake Pedal?
DR
The rear brake light switch is a pressure switch. They can fail but there's no external mechanism nor switch to gum up.
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The rear brake light switch is a pressure switch. They can fail but there's no external mechanism nor switch to gum up.
I ask because when I put it in the garage today the brake like was on. I checked the front brake lever with no change.
Checked the rear brake pedal, by moving it once or twice and the brake lights went out.
DR
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I ask because when I put it in the garage today the brake like was on. I checked the front brake lever with no change.
Checked the rear brake pedal, by moving it once or twice and the brake lights went out.
DR
That's a bad rear brake switch. They can not work at all, leak or stay on. Same type switch that many cars had in the late 40s, 50s and a few in to the early 60s. In fact that part number for that switch on the bike dates to 1951. It's 72023-51C . If it is keeping the brake light on sometimes it is also keeping the cruise off at the same time.
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That's a bad rear brake switch. They can not work at all, leak or stay on. Same type switch that many cars had in the late 40s, 50s and a few in to the early 60s. In fact that part number for that switch on the bike dates to 1951. It's 72023-51C . If it is keeping the brake light on sometimes it is also keeping the cruise off at the same time.
Thak you very much Don.
Guess it would be too much for MoCo to have a new unit?
DR
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Thak you very much Don.
Guess it would be too much for MoCo to have a new unit?
DR
That old switch has served well for a long time. The rear line application is a good place for a pressure switch.
Harley actually did start offering a new version of the switch on the newer bikes a couple years ago. They've since had a recall with it. Sometimes the enemy of good is better.
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could unplug it for the sake of troubleshooting
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Unplugged the roll off switch and the cruise control worked like a champ. Thanks for the suggestion.