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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: longlast on May 28, 2018, 07:14:12 AM

Title: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 28, 2018, 07:14:12 AM
Like my user name, at Longlast I'm starting to get ready for striping the motor down to repair/replace the bottom cylinder gasket leakage. Thanks to those that helped me along in the previous post when I had questions on this.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 28, 2018, 07:18:09 AM
Got the parts and tools I didn't have to do the job. Haven't got the rings as yet not sure of the ring size. I order them after I take some measurements.
I'll post as I go along.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: JKM on May 28, 2018, 08:19:02 AM
Are you planing on doing any other work while you have the motor open?
Make sure you check the crank run-out while you have it open.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 28, 2018, 09:33:32 AM
Are you planing on doing any other work while you have the motor open?
Make sure you check the crank run-out while you have it open.

Not sure how that's done on a Harley, plus don't have a micrometer gauge.

Motor was running good no issues then stalling out sometimes coming to a stop.

Will look into it.  :2vrolijk_21:
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 28, 2018, 09:35:01 AM
Tank and pipes off
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on May 28, 2018, 09:39:04 AM
If it had good compression not using oil leave the rings alone. That ring set will cost you as much as new pistons and to be honest is not likely needed. Fixed hone may take a thou or more to get the cylinders true and now the piston fit is gone. Bal honing not something to do with the thin low tension rings. If needed due to oil consumption or compression loss then bore to the next OS. Now you have seasoned cylinders bored and honed in torque plates (hopefully, it is a must for good ring seal).
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 28, 2018, 12:16:38 PM
If it had good compression not using oil leave the rings alone. That ring set will cost you as much as new pistons and to be honest is not likely needed. Fixed hone may take a thou or more to get the cylinders true and now the piston fit is gone. Bal honing not something to do with the thin low tension rings. If needed due to oil consumption or compression loss then bore to the next OS. Now you have seasoned cylinders bored and honed in torque plates (hopefully, it is a must for good ring seal).

Compression 120 rear 125 front.  Oil consumption  good no smoke on cold start up  or hot.

I didn't think it would be acceptable to put the pots back on the old rings once removed as the rings would lose there seating then it would burn oil and have compression lose.
My thoughts were to recross hatch the cylinders and new rings,
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 28, 2018, 12:47:51 PM
First and hope the last fatality :-[

Rear rocker carrier bolt, and yes I did turn it the right way, it snapped as it was winging out.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: MCE on May 28, 2018, 01:28:04 PM
Compression 120 rear 125 front.  Oil consumption  good no smoke on cold start up  or hot.

I didn't think it would be acceptable to put the pots back on the old rings once removed as the rings would lose there seating then it would burn oil and have compression lose.
My thoughts were to recross hatch the cylinders and new rings,

120/125 sounds low. That needs to be 175-185 at least.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on May 28, 2018, 02:34:44 PM
The cvo 110 has 210 or thereabouts with an open throttle and compression releases off. Check it properly with a quality gauge and it will be higher. If not you have issues and it is time to go +.010 or +.060 (113")
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on May 28, 2018, 02:37:49 PM
It is very acceptable to pull barrels and drop them right back on but you need good seal first. Reringing is a non starter with rhe low tension thin rings.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: MCE on May 28, 2018, 03:44:48 PM
Squirt a little oil in the plug hole and re-test the compression. That will tell you straight away if the ring seal is
bad. If it's still low, try another gage. 
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 28, 2018, 04:29:55 PM
Noted will do a recheck  :2vrolijk_21:
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on May 28, 2018, 04:36:47 PM
It should also be checked with a little heat in the motor
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: MCE on May 28, 2018, 08:05:31 PM
How many miles are on it?
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 29, 2018, 12:32:15 AM
How many miles are on it?

Only 22k. Hot happy having to do this breakdown do too bad shop work on a head gasket recall. On top now I've got a broken rocker carrier bolt in the head.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 29, 2018, 05:21:06 PM
Got the pots off, the cylinder walls are in good condition no scoring what so ever the cross hatching is still clearly visible around the hole cylinder.

For you far more experienced than I on Harley motors.

Would you renew the rings or just replace the faulty seal (reason it was pulled down) and put the pots back on the same rings..


Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: johnsachs on May 29, 2018, 05:30:11 PM
Got the pots off, the cylinder walls are in good condition no scoring what so ever the cross hatching is still clearly visible around the hole cylinder.

For you far more experienced than I on Harley motors.

Would you renew the rings or just replace the faulty seal (reason it was pulled down) and put the pots back on the same rings..
If the MIDDLE rings have a fine shiny line at the bottom of them just put the cylinder back on. If the ring is shiny across the whole face, replace the whole set.  ;)
John
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 29, 2018, 05:36:34 PM
What sensor would this be,.....it goes into the firing chamber.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on May 29, 2018, 05:51:29 PM
The automatic compression release that needs to be disconnected and a wide open throttle to get an accurate compression number
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 29, 2018, 06:44:09 PM
The automatic compression release that needs to be disconnected and a wide open throttle to get an accurate compression number

Ok that I didn't do on the compression test most likely that's why the reading was low.

Cheers
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: MCE on May 29, 2018, 10:53:27 PM
I doubt you need rings with that low mileage. Replace the lifters and other wear items and ride it.

You'll need to drill that broken bolt. I'd get a reverse twist drill bit and it should come right out easily.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on May 30, 2018, 11:19:22 AM
If the MIDDLE rings have a fine shiny line at the bottom of them just put the cylinder back on. If the ring is shiny across the whole face, replace the whole set.  ;)
John
Good advice there, I look at the consistency of the stripe too, in other words same size around the circumference
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: J.D. on May 30, 2018, 11:28:58 AM
I'd too put that all back together as-is unless you see some unusual wear or problem as noted.  Lifters, rocker lockers and inner cam bearing upgrade a good idea if not already done.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 30, 2018, 10:33:53 PM
Haven't looked at the rings as yet, but the cylinders are clean all round.
Been messing with the broken bolt. I'm managing to get it on the move. Not out yet.

Rocker lockers going in.

S&S lifters previously done.

Full compliment cam bearings previously done.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: trippy on May 31, 2018, 04:12:22 PM
For your info, the Harley Service manual gives 2 sets of figures for doing a compression test,  with standard 110 engine,

1.  With Comp releases disconnected  200-220 PSI.


2. With Comp releases connected and working 130-170 PSI.


Hope that helps.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on May 31, 2018, 04:46:56 PM
For your info, the Harley Service manual gives 2 sets of figures for doing a compression test,  with standard 110 engine,

1.  With Comp releases disconnected  200-220 PSI.


2. With Comp releases connected and working 130-170 PSI.


Hope that helps.

Thanks,.     
   I assume the comp release were working for the readings I got. At the time I thought mine didn't have the units.
Once it's back together I'll be doing the test with them connected and disconnected.

I'll be testing them to be sure that they're working before they go back.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: trippy on June 04, 2018, 09:43:50 AM
You may want to take a look at this,  I used it to "break in" my engine a couple of years ago, and it seems to have worked a treat.

Have talked to many Harley independants over the last couple of years about this very subject and most agree with it, Too do a good job with "Piston Ring to Cylnderwall" sealing, dont use "synthetic" oils and ride it like you stole it! 

I changed my oil after 50 miles, then again after another 200, and didnt start using "rock oil TRM" untill had 1,000 on the clock.

I have "no oil " usage at all, with exception of the very small amount from the breather system (I use a catch can to keep the cylinders and pistons crowns  clean).

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Regards
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on June 04, 2018, 10:09:56 AM
Use the recommendation of the person doing the hone for break in. Consider yourself one of the lucky ones the rings didn't microweld. That method is best suited to water cooled engines with a close tuneup.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: VANAMAL on June 04, 2018, 10:15:08 AM
i replaced my rear oring recently. I left the piston in the cyl and just removed the wrist pin. Pretty easy no problem since
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: J.D. on June 04, 2018, 01:06:16 PM
 :2vrolijk_21:
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on June 04, 2018, 03:50:32 PM
You may want to take a look at this,  I used it to "break in" my engine a couple of years ago, and it seems to have worked a treat.

Have talked to many Harley independants over the last couple of years about this very subject and most agree with it, Too do a good job with "Piston Ring to Cylnderwall" sealing, dont use "synthetic" oils and ride it like you stole it! 

I changed my oil after 50 miles, then again after another 200, and didnt start using "rock oil TRM" untill had 1,000 on the clock.

I have "no oil " usage at all, with exception of the very small amount from the breather system (I use a catch can to keep the cylinders and pistons crowns  clean).

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Regards

That was interesting.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on June 05, 2018, 10:01:03 AM
You will find Axtell, S&S and Hastings breakin procedures on the net. None are even close to this method. Axtell provides solid reasons why not to wale on the new motor.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: J.D. on June 05, 2018, 10:10:58 AM
+1
I've read that article before.  No way I'd follow that interweb link method.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on June 05, 2018, 04:03:21 PM
I tend to agree. Although it was an interesting read, I don't think "rather I'm sure "I won't be dumping the amount of oils into it that's suggested for breaking in.  :drink:  :drink:  :drink: I don't even change myselfs motor juice that often  :D

It's always been, for me anyway that a motor is run at 50mph with the odd short burst  up to around 70mph then slow back to 50mph for next 500mil of breaking in time. This is the first HD motor but have done a few other motors with what I just mentioned break in and have never changed oil like it said too.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on June 05, 2018, 04:23:10 PM
Did a check on the rings and found the middle rings are almost polished  the complete depth of the face of the ring the gap ends were completely polished.
I've decided and ordered a set of Total Seal rings should be here the middle of next week. By the way the 07 stock rings are 1.2mm comp and 2.5mm oil these are discontinued by HD you have to go to 113 upgrade piston and ring I was told so went with Total Seal.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: HD Street Performance on June 05, 2018, 05:00:20 PM
Someone gave you a bit of wrong information.
21951-11 std and 21953-11 .010 are the rings. EXPENSIVE!
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on June 05, 2018, 10:24:37 PM
Someone gave you a bit of wrong information.
21951-11 std and 21953-11 are the rings. EXPENSIVE!

Now why does that not surprise me.

It was my local HD dealership informed me they're discontinued. I looked up the the part number the cost was high a lot higher than Total Seals cost including shipping from your side of the pond.

I'll hit the dealer up with that part number and see what they have to say.

Thanks for the input :2vrolijk_21:
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on June 12, 2018, 04:50:53 AM
Rings arrived today from Phoenix, Arizona. Not bad going as it took only 9 days from date of ordering.
Title: Re: The work begins (UPDATE)
Post by: longlast on June 27, 2018, 12:13:06 AM
The rings that came despite  what the year and part numbers for my 07 ultra say the rings were the wrong ones  :-[
Every where I've been looking I was coming up with the same size of ring 1.2mm top rings and 2.5mm oil. To big for the top  and to small for the oil.

Well I had to buy myself a measuring tool and do it the old fashion way.  I called Total Seal and gave them the piston grove measurements  over the phone.

For the 07 I've got, the rings are 0.43" top rings and 3.mm oil

NO where even from the dealer do they come up with these rings.

The reorder came today the rings fit and assembly has begun.

Been keeping busy waiting for the right rings to come.
I put on a new fork slider (chrome was peeling). 
Changed fork oil
Changed brake and clutch fluids
Chased down a short in the SPKR switch system and repaired
Replaced the rear brake pads

Got the cross hatching on the front pot done and cylinder on today will start the rear tomorrow.

Fingers crossed I have no more setbacks.

Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: yobtaf103 on June 27, 2018, 10:17:59 AM
You not considered going to 113 overbore new pistons/rings?
Alex at www.fastlaneheadwork.co.uk i use/ reasonable cost

i did a 117 HD bolt-on worked out fine
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on June 27, 2018, 01:00:01 PM
You not considered going to 113 overbore new pistons/rings?
Alex at www.fastlaneheadwork.co.uk i use/ reasonable cost

i did a 117 HD bolt-on worked out fine

Something I'd look in to  about 50k down the road.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on June 30, 2018, 01:16:41 PM
Job done bike to my surprise started up straight away.
Test ride today feels like a hole different ride from the other bits of work I did on top of the motor work.
Motor sounds good ran well and no oil leakage,..... bonus

Thanks for all the help and input from you all
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: J.D. on June 30, 2018, 01:40:55 PM
Well done, congratulations.  Always a good feeling to do a quality job yourself.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: Twolanerider on June 30, 2018, 04:21:58 PM
Job done bike to my surprise started up straight away.
Test ride today feels like a hole different ride from the other bits of work I did on top of the motor work.
Motor sounds good ran well and no oil leakage,..... bonus

Thanks for all the help and input from you all


So after all that time and a billion bits scattered around the garage you didn't cock up anything?   Well done!   :2vrolijk_21: :drink:


Always feels good the first time you hear one fire up after it's been apart.
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on June 30, 2018, 06:56:53 PM
Well done, congratulations.  Always a good feeling to do a quality job yourself.

Cheers  2002,   


So after all that time and a billion bits scattered around the garage you didn't cock up anything?   Well done!   :2vrolijk_21: :drink:


Always feels good the first time you hear one fire up after it's been apart.

Gotta  say I have to agree Don it firing up straight  away was a great sound and a relief I fully expected to have pissed around to find out what I'd done wrong  doing it for the first time and getting all the bits back together  was a challenge.

Took the month from start to finish . Once the research was done and parts all gathered took 4 days to reassemble it.

To be honest I'm bloody glad it's over 😃

Should be free riding from now on. Motors been done with new Total Seal rings,  rocker lockers in, S&S lifters in, full complement cam bearings in, new fork slider with Motul SAE 15w medium heavy fork oil in, new brake pads, oh yes and replaced front and rear wheel bearings.

Plus the inner primary case bearing clutch hub and a new Hayden M6 primary chain tensioner put in but that was back in April.

Again thanks guys  :2vrolijk_21:
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: Twolanerider on June 30, 2018, 07:56:43 PM
So glad to read you've got it all sorted.  That piston ring ordeal was enough to send a man to the pub.  Now you can enjoy the riding season.  So, pleased you got a garage :huepfenlol2: ?
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: longlast on July 01, 2018, 10:10:23 AM
 :D  ;D  cheers Don   :drink: :drink:
The past month the weather's here's been in the top 20s low 30s and no sign of it letting up to soon.

The old girl and I are of to the coast (North Sea) tomorrow 1.5 hr. run
Fun in the sun on the beach  :orange: :huepfenjump3:
Title: Re: The work begins
Post by: Twolanerider on July 01, 2018, 11:00:11 AM
Crap, that's warm.  I'd take it though.  Went riding yesterday afternoon and it was 35-36.  And no f'ing sea breeze  :huepfenlol2: !


I'm just glad you're riding  :2vrolijk_21: .