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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: SIKBIRD on November 12, 2022, 07:08:47 AM
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I don’t have a degree in engineering but even I have the common sense to understand that a static piece of plastic held against a high revolution metal chain at 40 ft lbs is a recipe for disaster. There seems to be plenty of room in there so why didn’t they install some sort of roller tensioner (like some foreign bikes use on their drive chain) or better yet why hasn’t the aftermarket come up with one? And if there’s just no way to come up with something better, at least make them easy to change!
Anyhow looked at mine yesterday and here’s a pic of the front, back looks about the same…they have 27k miles on them. I know they are pitting but I decided to wait a little longer before I change them, just don’t have the time to undertake such an involved project right now.
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I would highly recommend when you get to it upgrade the cam plate and have hydraulic tensioners. Those spring tensioners are a real recipe for disaster.
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I don’t plan to get a new bike within the next 10 years so I’ll just keep patching up the Bird. I was looking at the SE cam plate but it doesn’t list my model. I know lots of things in their catalog fit models not listed so do you know if it will work with my motor (2004 SE 103”). When I get around to it I’ll change the inner cam bearings, lifters and the cam plate (if it will work).
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what i ran into, is HD doesn't sell just the shoe. you have to buy the whole assembly. If you go with something like S&S cam plate( or another aftermarket set up) they sell just the shoes for replacement. I didn't find this out until after warranty work, or I'd had them upgraded.
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25284-11
Use an early chain drive cam of your choice. The CVO 103 has very low compression and will respond well to a shorter cam in the 235 degree range and <.590 lift.
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Thank you for the info, I’ll reach out to you for some suggestions (if you don’t mind) when I start gathering parts.
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Ditch the tensioner all together an go gear.
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Check runout before declaring victory for the gear drive. Gear drive needs <.002" IME. The late-model tensioner setup is much more user-friendly and is also reliable.
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Check runout before declaring victory for the gear drive. Gear drive needs <.002" IME. The late-model tensioner setup is much more user-friendly and is also reliable.
Doesn't S&S have a much more favorable tolerance?
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Certainly worth the effort to look a gear drive. The older motors (2000 - 2005) had better crank runout tolerances than the new ones. I have gear drive in my 2005 SEEG and my 2003 RK. Approaching 100K on both and no worries. Also went with the S&S cam plate and oil pump on the SEEG as well as Johnson HyLift lifters. Both bikes run very well and no concerns about eating tensioners.
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Thanks for all the suggestions, gear drive is certainly appealing as the hydraulic tensioner set up still has shoes that will, at some point, need to be replaced but I’ll have to check the runout to see if my bike can handle gear drive. Decisions decisions