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[TIMINATOR]

MCE, your correct, doing the bottom is the easiest way, I have also done it in my CBN tooled Serdi head/deck mill on the top but you have to take extremely light cuts to keep from "smearing" the aluminum. The lathe with C-30 or better carbide cuts the bottom OK, ya take a few cuts and resharpen. I don't know if a normal human could wear those cylinders enough to ever need a freshen up. After a year or two you just don't see any wear, pretty much the crosshatch the way it was when new.
I have talked to friends at Total Seal (they are local) and they sell what they call "Fairy Dust" , its a diamond lapping compound that is applied to the cylinder walls during assembly to aid in breaking in the latest crop of harder than PHX. in the summer race/ blown/nitrous rings. Great idea, but I can't get past the idea of putting diamond lapping compound into the rest of the engine. OK for a race car that gets torn down often though, I guess.
Those cylinders have been completely trouble free in every install we have done, and we have been using them since they came out. We don't sell anything that we haven't personally tried in our own scoots.
Headers on my CVO Breakout are Patriot Performance stepped 2 into 1s with heavily modified baffles. We also use the Drago's stepped headers too, and prefer those as they are coated inside and out, but Frank doesn't make the Dragulas for a Breakout. The Patriots are a bit longer in the primary length too, and I like that, but it would look ridiculous with an actual long enough tuned primary tube. We have our local guy do the coatings, he is great! P.S. we get the pipes coated inside and out and also the inside of the heat shields too. Motor temps will run lower with everything coated, at least here in Phoenix,AZ.   TIMINATOR

[PAhunter]

MCE, your correct, doing the bottom is the easiest way, I have also done it in my CBN tooled Serdi head/deck mill on the top but you have to take extremely light cuts to keep from "smearing" the aluminum. The lathe with C-30 or better carbide cuts the bottom OK, ya take a few cuts and resharpen. I don't know if a normal human could wear those cylinders enough to ever need a freshen up. After a year or two you just don't see any wear, pretty much the crosshatch the way it was when new.
I have talked to friends at Total Seal (they are local) and they sell what they call "Fairy Dust" , its a diamond lapping compound that is applied to the cylinder walls during assembly to aid in breaking in the latest crop of harder than PHX. in the summer race/ blown/nitrous rings. Great idea, but I can't get past the idea of putting diamond lapping compound into the rest of the engine. OK for a race car that gets torn down often though, I guess.
Those cylinders have been completely trouble free in every install we have done, and we have been using them since they came out. We don't sell anything that we haven't personally tried in our own scoots.
Headers on my CVO Breakout are Patriot Performance stepped 2 into 1s with heavily modified baffles. We also use the Drago's stepped headers too, and prefer those as they are coated inside and out, but Frank doesn't make the Dragulas for a Breakout. The Patriots are a bit longer in the primary length too, and I like that, but it would look ridiculous with an actual long enough tuned primary tube. We have our local guy do the coatings, he is great! P.S. we get the pipes coated inside and out and also the inside of the heat shields too. Motor temps will run lower with everything coated, at least here in Phoenix,AZ.   TIMINATOR

Thanks.. I did not realize you had a breakout.. I'm searching for the best exhaust w the drop-in .. I originally thought id leave what I have and still may but I'm hearing I may not get the torque w my V&H true duels.. I'm hearing 2-1-2 .. I really need the best performer for a drop in.

Thanks Hunter

[TIMINATOR]

You need 2-1-2s. Period. Anything else is a waste of the cash you already spent.  TIMINATOR

[MCE]

You need 2-1-2s. Period. Anything else is a waste of the cash you already spent.  TIMINATOR

y

Absolutely correct.

You're putting the cart before the horse by not doing the heads (port work and compression bump)
and leaving that 50mm TB on it.

I'll go out on a limb and say; you'll gain more by doing the pipe/heads and TB than you would by
adding 7 cubic inches.

But what do I know?

[TIMINATOR]

x2!!!!   The pipes, compression and port work will ALLOW the extra 7 cubes to make more power. The lack of the above will prevent the 7 cubes from doing any better.  A bigger air pump cannot pass more air than the smallest restriction to the flow.  TIMINATOR

[PAhunter]

y

Absolutely correct.

You're putting the cart before the horse by not doing the heads (port work and compression bump)
and leaving that 50mm TB on it.

I'll go out on a limb and say; you'll gain more by doing the pipe/heads and TB than you would by
adding 7 cubic inches.

But what do I know?

Thanks.. I'm definitely going w the 58 TB.. I'm now working on best head pipe 2-1-2 and mufflers. I know fatcat is awesome, just looking for balance noice out the back..

Thanks Hunters

[MCE]

D&D 2-1-2 header pipe with Freedom Performance mufflers (quieter without sacrificing power).
The D&D header pipe is ceramic coated (There's no heat shields and other chit to mess with)

I'll Get you the part numbers if you need them.

[BostonboyDH]

    Look into a Rush Wrath exhaust it tunes easier and not as loud as D&D.  Speaking from experience and I own both I had a D&D Fatcat on my 09 SERG when it was a 110 CI. I had a purpose built 117 CI and needed a bigger pipe the builder recommended the Rush Wrath or Frank Drago's Dragular both similar design & quieter with a flatter TQ curve over the D&D Borzilla exhaust. The D&D tend to have a TQ dip that requires some extensive tuning to eliminate the TQ dip. I still have a D&D Fatcat on my 107 Dyna and it is louder than the 117 RG.

[1roadking]

what are these numbers you speak about... is there a dyno sheet we can look at, thnx

My tuner, Big Boyz in Maine uses a totally different type of dyno. It’s a break dyno instead of an inertia dyno like a dyno jet and he also does his dyno sheet as specific out puts at each 250rpm interval IE 2000 2250 2500 2750 up to 6200 RPM. His dyno reads lower numbers then the typical dyno jet dyno and would not look impressive to most people lol. The strongest 117 he’s tuned put out about 120 TQ and he’s tuned thousands of bikes. Mine put out about 115 square on his dyno which should be around 125 to 130 on most dyno jet dynos. What’s crazy is it made about 107 TQ at 2500 rpm on his dyno climbing  to 115 ish at around 3000 RPM and stayed there, the HP climed  up to 6000 RPM. Neither he nor I thought it would keep going up after the TQ curve flattened so low in the RPMs. He was very impressed with how broad the power curve  was. It’s stupid easy and fun to ride fast and well mannered enough to enjoy riding at legal speeds as well

[MCE]

FWIW: The DynoJet 250 has an Eddy Current brake. You can't tune a FI bike without a constant load device (brake).

[1roadking]

He uses a mustang eddy current dyno and pulls 4th gear for the final numbers. My point with my response to the op is that having a properly matched build with compression, cams, head work and exhaust, will get him a bike that runs the way he wants it to. The difference between my 2 into 1 into 2 power duals with OS 450’s and my Bassani 2 into 1 Roadrage is night and day at under 3000RPM and having run 2 into 2 big shots on my old bike I know his exhaust is killing his low rpm TQ!

[TIMINATOR]

Why would he run 4th gear? Not as much load as 5th 6th or 7th. Lower gear runs show lower HP/TQ typically because of the lesser actual load and higher inertia (internal) load (on inertia style dynos). I want to see the worst case load to find all of the jetting and timing/ detonation issues.  At least if he does all of his runs the same, he can at least compare these to his other runs. To not do things to the industry standard removes the possibility of comparisons to every one else' s runs. Or is that  the reason? TIMINATOR

[MCE]

I always try to run them in the top gear, avoiding overdrive if possible. (But I'm not a tuning shop either)

[TorqueInc]

Does not use afr to tune the bike either

[HD Street Performance]

Cutting the cylinder tops is easy in a mill with PCD inserts. Light cuts.