Dan, what's new with the board track project?
Craig
Sorry about the repeat on the pictures, I forgot I'd posted them before. Oh well.....
Craig, it's like this, I've been too lazy to get my ass out there and work on it.
Really though, I was sick for one of the past weekends, then I had to go to Joplin for a week to do a new line startup for one of our customers. That's when I had dinner with Don and Travis, great guys with lots of great stories.
Back to my project bike.
I have a battery now that I bought from Jegs. It's a Braille brand AGM type.
"No-Weight" Racing Battery
11.5 lbs
5.8'' (L) x 3.4'' (W) x 5.8'' (H)
Pulse Cranking Amps (PCA) 5 sec @ 80° F: 904
Pulse Cranking Amps (PCA) 10 sec @ 80° F: 791
Pulse Cranking Amps 20 sec @ 80° F: 698
Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 80° F: 585
Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 32° F: 486
Cold Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 0° F: 360
This is far more potent than anything I could find in any motorcycle website, other than the new Lithium Polymer batterys @ over $900.
I measured under the trans inside the frame and there is NOT enough room to do a battery there without it hanging down looking very unsightly.
I think lots of us guys could get some better deals if we wander from motorcycles once in awhile and take a look through catalogs like Summit Racing, Jegs, Speedway Motors etc. Lots of parts can be used in other applications, even headlights and tailights. I have a streetrod brake pedal pad on the new project that looks awesome on the bike.
At this point I have the oil take welded and leak tested, but I still have concerns for vibration causing issues later on. I've been looking for body filler that can be used on high temp applications. Alvin Products makes a filler called Lab-metal and High Temp Lab-metal. The regular is good up to about 425° for a short period and the High Temp Lab-metal is good up to about 1100°. The hight temp has to be cured in an over for about half an hour at 425° to gas out any trapped gasses and to final harden the material.
The assorted bends I used on my pipes had clamping marks that did not grind out so I may have to use some type of high temp filler there too. I checked with Jet-Hot and they said it would probably not be an issue getting their ceramic coating to cover with minor amounts of this filler being used.
So for right now I need to finalize the tank filler strips on the front to box in the main frame gap. I have my horn mounted inside between the two tanks. It will be plenty loud enough as the bottom area is wide open and the horn is VERY loud.
I had a wiring module with plugs on the under side for all my harnesses to plug in but it was getting too tight where I wanted to locate it. So I sent it back and got the one with all the wires prewired to the module and it's about 2/3 the size. It has all the relays, self cancelling turn signal module, starter relays etc built in so all I have to do is the wiring. It's color coded and all marked with tags around each wire. I have several wiring label machines at work and I'll probably use one to mark all the outer ends.
Along with the purchase of the battery, I bought another headlight for the bike. This one works a lot better, especially with the home made tailight I have on it. I got this from Demon's Cycles in FL. They have great products, but at VERY low prices and the service is really fast. If it's on the website, they have it in stock. I paid $35 for the headlight and I had $40 in the turn signals.
I mounted the turn signals just like I did on the tailight, but rotated them down just a bit from horizontal for a slightly better look, at least that's what I think.
Here's a few pictures of the bike finally outside on the driveway.
I'm really down to finishing the tank and trim like I said above, and then I wire it up. I have to do all the oil lines once I weld in the bungs on the oil tank, or figure out where I want them. My oil return will be coming in from the rear of the tank and that's why I have the forward downward slant to the tanks. I want good ciculation of the oil and use as much of the tank for cooling that I can.
Once I pre-finish the bike, I tear it all back down for final frame finishing of the welds and grinding that I've done all over on it. Then comes the paint. I also have to mill out the radius in the lower head bearing cap. The internal turning stop is way to shallow. I can't turn this around in my driveway. I'll trim out a bit on each end to let the head rotate about another 15° so it will steer better for me.
I'll be working on it again soon and post more pictures.
Thanks for keeping me going, it really helps me stay motivated.
Later dudes and dudettes.