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[DSloane]

I'm putting new cables on my 2011 FLHXSE2 because the stock cables are too short for my HeliBars.  I first replaced the clutch cable.  When i took the original cable out of the clutch housing there was no rubber bushing on the stem whereas the replacement does.  Does anyone know if there is a bushing that may have fallen off and if so I do I get the sucker out?   

[VRODDAVE]

Just a little confused ...  are you talking a real clutch cable?   or hydraulic clutch line?

if it’s the line,  i just replaced mine recently and had the same issue,  the o ring stayed in clutch actuator housing ...  i could see it with a focused MAG light.  I was able to use dental pic's to remove the o ring in chunks. I was hard and brittle.

If your talking cables,  no clue.

[mjb765]

Just a little confused ...  are you talking a real clutch cable?   or hydraulic clutch line?

if it’s the line,  i just replaced mine recently and had the same issue,  the o ring stayed in clutch actuator housing ...  i could see it with a focused MAG light.  I was able to use dental pic's to remove the o ring in chunks. I was hard and brittle.

If your talking cables,  no clue.

I was thinking the same thing...his avitar says FLHXSE2 which would be hydraulic lines which whould have the "O" ring on the end. Good possibility that it is still in the housing.

[Spiderman]

Worst case scenario is a handful of allen head bolts being removed, the hydraulic actuator pulled off and cleaned out, new gasket, reinstall bolts connect fluid line to master cylinder and add fluid. Since you've got a piston inside there vice the ball and ramp of a cable set-up, it doesn't hurt to take it apart and clean the piston every so often anyway. Its mechanics 101 and can be done with a set of allen wrenches in about 10 minutes. FYI, hydraulic clutch is a misnomer of sorts. The trans and clutch are exactly the same irregardless of the engage/disengage mechanism. The difference is on a cable set-up, you've got an adjuster bolt with a locknut on the clutch hub side and a shorter push rod. On a "hydraulic" clutch, you've got a bearing where the adjuster bolt and locknut are on the cable set-up and one long rod all the way through the trans mainshaft. The hydraulic piston pushes on the rod to engage/disengage the clutch vice the cable pulling on a ramp that rolls up on a ball bearing which pushes on the short rod which is up against the adjuster rod. Lot less stuff to wear out on the "hydraulic" clutch and of course no clutch cable to break. As noted, the only issue is that the actuator piston can get dirt in it or you can have a leak in your line.

B B

[grc]

If you can't get the entire old o-ring out, by all means disassemble the side cover and actuator and clean out any and all debris.  As BESERKER mentioned, there isn't a whole lot involved other than draining the trans and removing a few bolts.


Jerry